The diagrams show the roof as being 9'0" over the cornices so any variation from that dimension would be down to the fusion of parts or quality of the kit. As you say one of the existing metal roofs might actually work out ok. LNER roofs are slightly smaller over cornices than the quoted 9'0" so it might work if additional strips were added to the cornice to make them thicker.
To curve the ends saw a series of slots along the length of the roof to match the length over which to roof curves down and bend the aluminium to suit. Back fill with car filler.
To do a 3D printed roof I would suggest the body is built then placed top down on a scanner to allow an accurate profile to be matched to both length and width and end curves.
Interesting. When I followed your new link I got the same issue. Clicked on Home and got the prompt for cookies and chose Decline. Now scroll bars appear on the articulated pages including if I reclick on your link.
Not as such. The drawing that follows that one specifies the various cross section ellipses. Scroll down further and there is an annotated drawing showing which ellipse goes where.
Insert a blade or thin card/styrene between the body and chassis to release the tabs. You may have to slide the separator along the join until they release.
I have used a paint stripper heat gun to warm the resin and build plate before starting a print. Once the print has started the machine generates enough heat to keep the process working.
As you say the casting is the same however when the buffer includes a head with the flat top, common on the LNER, you need left and right hand versions.