MikeTrice

All I have been told is it was recovered from a wreck off of Dover and the ship contained WW1 Locomotive and carriage parts:

This works well: https://www.freerip.com/

Inkscape never pretends to be CAD rather a graphics program. Having said that I have used it to produce both accurate 2D drawings and etching artwork. @chris p bacon also uses it for etching artwork. At the end of the day use whichever piece of software suits you that can be imported into Silhouette Studio. In Inkscape the x,y location of an object does not appear when you first draw the object but rather when you select it, then the x,y coordinate appears in the toolbar.

Montana Gold? https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/gold-400ml-artist-paint/

Harris states black ends were introduced after 1925 so technically teak ends would be valid depending on what time the preserved set is supposed to represent.

Especially when they get the "R" wrong ;-)

I suspect the problem is the sides rather than the transfers. It looks as if the vertical beading on the lower panels is not located correctly.

Fox do some correct size lettering: https://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/transfers/lner-teak-coach-branding-79095 They provide the branding "SLEEPING CAR", "BUFFET CAR" and "RESTAURANT CAR". Providing you choose a Sentinel name that is using the same letters they should provide a solution.

Hard to tell without seeing a larger image but it could be an optical illusion. The prototype was lined with primrose but had a thin red line alongside the primrose which may look orange at a distance.

And these: https://www.mobablog.info/blog.php?id=2643

There is a drawing here but the dimension are almost impossible to read: https://www.rhb.ch/fileadmin/user_upload/redaktion/Ueber_die_RhB/UNESCO Welterbe/Dokumente/Kandidaturdossier/Englisch/2a4_en.pdf

When cutting styrene by hand I have always cut inner openings by cutting around the edges then cutting two diagonals across the centre. It makes the centre easier to snap out. Do the same with the Silhouette but you might have to hand finish the diagonals to ensure they cut through at the centre.

They are the same as far as I can see. Worth watching.

Agree. Unlike the earlier mouldings the longer Hornby Corridor Clerestories had no moulded panelling.

The cornice is a teak moulding that covers the joint between the canvas on the roof and the teak sides so the top would be teak coloured. The Cornice Plates, which go over the doors, are steel and are screwed to the Cornice. They were painted with teak coloured paint.

Cornice plates over the doors????????

Thanks Ian, might prove useful, however in this instance it was something I should (and did) fix at source.

I mentioned previously issues with anti aliasing on the Mono X and have finally had a chance to print my test sphere to compare results. The UV strength was reduced to 40% and exposure increased to 3.2 seconds. No improvement whatsoever: I wanted to carry out some experiments regarding a van body. Before going too far into the modelling I wanted to verify how the planking would come out and the louvres in this GNR Fruit Van: Ok, not the result I was expecting. It looks as if large chunks of the side have been ripped off of the print which I put down to the supports failing. It did however show me that I needed to reduce the plank gaps somewhat. The second test print was better but still had the flaw: So what was going on? I could not blame the weak sides or support falure here. The answer (I hope) is that the model was non-manifold. The way the sample was put together was quite complex with lots of Blender Boolean operations. Boolean operations in Blender are always a bit fraught especially if you have multiples acting on the same object. Instead I applied some of the booleans and re-engineered the rest checking each component for being watertight along the way. The second test confirmed the planking depth for me but I was unhappy with the louvres which were also remodelled for test 3 which being watertight had no printing issues. Phew.

Postage is separate unfortunately.

I do a detailing kit if you want to go that far: https://www.shapeways.com/product/AS9BF4KHM/lima-j50-upgade-kit?optionId=137418314&li=shops

Does this help? Black with shades of rust.

That print looks pretty good. Hard to tell from the supplied image but you might try a couple more supports in the corner:

When you print with supports and get distortions what angle are you printing at? If you are printing at an angle it might be worth printing a cube of known dimensions and then see if some form of calibration adjustment is necessary or try cleaning the lead screw and relubricate.

I would expect the layer lines to be circular which they are not which suggests none are cylindrical. No idea regarding the hole.

A lot of people have problems with photon workshop and don't think a lot of it. Personally I use Chitubox v1.8.1. Chitubox includes some validation capability but UV Tools is worth getting being free.