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DK123GWR

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    My project: North Pole Junction, attempting to turn a trainset into a layout with minimum spending on scenery.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIKxMTu_Mycor9jL4IGrA0Q/

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  1. Why do they need to be approved separately? 25kV AC through OHLE is 25kV AC through OHLE isn't it?
  2. In fairness, I think that this is likely to be a case of false balance done badly rather than overt bias. The BBC have often been careful to mention both side of a debate whenever it is covered in order to avoid accusations of bias. It was only last year that they clarified that climate change deniers did not have to be given equal airtime to scientists. In the article there are references to the speed and the fact that it is Europe's largest infrastructure project. This is an article in the Beds, Herts, and Bucks section it was probably written by a local journalist who knows only three things about HS2: 1) It stands for High Speed 2 2) It is a new railway 3) They found some old stuff nearby To them, mentioning the impressive speed and scale of the project may have been the reason they felt the need to balance it with a comment on the cost. Would it be nice if all local journalists were the best reporters available? Yes it would, but then who would be the national and international journalists? And despite all of the BBC's faults and mistakes, who does a better job? Certainly not the printed press... I apologise for digressing from a subject and I would have posted something more relevant at the end of this post, but I can't actually find any news since the archaelogy, so I do apologise for that.
  3. 25mm is workable. Do you know what it would be without modification? I'd be willing to try and take it off, but how much difference would it make? I like the idea but I'm definitely not confident enough to try it out (I'd probably end up having to buy another turntable after ruining both of the originals). That's odd. The image used on Hatton's website says that 'Adaptor plates are included for Code 75 and Code 100 rail'.
  4. It is frustrating that the Peco turntable is so deep. It seems to do everything else well and is relatively cheap so I had considered putting a whole and fitting it. The trouble is that I have no clearance under the baseboard so it can't be deeper than 12mm unless I build up the ground level and make a whole in that. The issue is the 31mm depth, which would see the turntable sit 19mm above baseboard height The turntable would fit but the route leading up to it wouldn't. However, I have just realised that the 31mm must refer to the depth from the bottom of the well to the top of the guard rails (for packing purposes). Does anybody know the depth from the bottom of the well to the top of the rails? To save a separate post later on, how many adaptor plates are included for code 100 and are these available separately?
  5. I believe (though maybe I'm confused) that one of the layouts at the WoR Virtual Exhibition was a BR blue GCML layout, and that they had looked at the traffic flows on alternative routes to see what might have been able to use the GCML. The only problems are that I can't remember the name of the layout or whether it was another closed line instead of the GCML. https://www.world-of-railways.co.uk/virtual-exhibition-layouts//charwelton-into-the-80s And here's their thread:
  6. It's in bold because the first 4 are yes/no conditions which need to be met for the turntable to do its job, whereas 5 and 6 are to determine the best of the options meeting these criteria, with 5 being more important that 6 (as long as there are exits at least as frequently as on the Hornby R070).
  7. I've pondered a few options on turning locos for a while, but I have decided that now is the time to install a turntable. I would like suggestions for a turntable which is suitable given my criteria: 1) 16.5mm track gauge 2) Long enough to turn an A4 (and maybe a Standard Class 9F in the future). I believe that any turntable with a deck of 250mm or more should do the job 3) Surface mounted 4) Functioning electrical connections 5) As cheap as possible 6) It would also be nice to have closely spaced exit roads, but this is a secondary consideration The following are not important: 1) Scale (H0 vs 00) 2) Motors. My points are still manual and are likely to stay that way for some time. As a result, I have no issues with a manual turntable. 3) Prototype fidelity Thanks in advancee for any advice.
  8. Is there a specific subject line needed to enter?
  9. What proportion of seats on heritage lines and railtours should be 1st class? I am imagining that for most railtours the answer will be very high in order to justify a premium price tag, whereas on heritage lines it would be very low in order to maximise capacity. I am talking mainly about using BR Mk1s, with perhaps some GWR coaches if they are available cheaply. I am looking at a rake of 2 on my heritage line (representing 4, unless I end up with a B-set) and a rake of 4 for railtours (representing roughly 8). Any suggestions for suitable formations?
  10. DK123GWR

    EBay madness

    And the brand is listed as Hornby.
  11. You should also inform them that the county council's former meeting place now serves as the highest court of appeal for 13 nations and several other territories across 6 continents. Because I feel obliged to keep the thread on track, here's some relevant news: https://www.constructionnews.co.uk/hs2/hs2-announces-500-new-jobs-30-06-2020/
  12. I've found them now. I don't know whether its what you were referring to but there were a pair of clips on the lower (plastic) chassis which I had assumed were part of the way the plastic and metal chassis parts were clipped together. I've managed to insert the pickups and connect them to the motor. The electrical side is now working. It's one formerly working model which has been out of use for a long time due to a broken right hand valve gear and sticking driving wheels (which turned out to be the pin connecting the broken valve gear to the central driving wheel, which had moved out of position and was catching on the chassis). I just need to find a replacement for the X1282 valve gear (I can only find one, and that's from a slightly suspicious ebay seller) and then it should be ready to go.
  13. Can anybody help with this? Further reading seems to confirm that there is some sort of socket on the side of the chassis, but I still can't work out where they are.
  14. I am trying to reassemble the remains of my old Fowler 4P no.42308, which I believe is R.055. From the service sheet it appears that there are contacts which clip into the sides of the chassis. I can't see anything on the model that would suggest how to do this. Does anybody have experience (and preferably photographs) of how this works? Thanks in advance.
  15. I think that must be the case as none of the obvious models seem to share it. It surprises me but I'm not complaining as the standard 0-4-0 would never run as well.
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