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sjp23480

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About sjp23480

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  • Location
    Ashford, Kent
  • Interests
    BR MR 1950s and 1960s - esp Settle-Carlisle

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  1. Hi Mike, just watched episode 10, very interesting. I especially like the camera work panning and following the locos. Will be even better once you have the gimbal to help steady the camera. Great stuff - thank you. Steve
  2. MDF is pretty hard to push pins into, I would pre drill holes for the pins.
  3. I have a spare Airfix tender drive unit if you want it, £5 including postage?
  4. I have found myself in similar predicaments in the past. I suspect DJH will sell you a replacement valve gear etch, but it might not be that cheap. As previously mentioned, Tony Wright is the "A2meister" (amongst other things) and can probably offer some sage advise if you PM him.
  5. Ross, The other thread I referenced mentions something about the distance been the axles being "adjusted" by DJH, which might cause some compatibility issues with other suppliers components. It is probably worth a quick read: Stephen
  6. Some suggestions here about the chassis, including PDK:
  7. I do the same with my DCC concepts RR with some locos. They don't all need it but I have never figured out why some do and others don't. Although I suspect it is due to weight distribution?
  8. @thesignalengineer - these look great, could you tell us a little bit more about your painting and lining techniques - esp on the crimson and cream coaches. Thanks Steve
  9. Welcome back Mike, I subscribe to your YouTube channel and caught up with your latest installment earlier this week. Fascinating as ever, especially the intricate shunting of the pick up goods. Sorry to hear you are still not 100% but glad you are getting back into modelling and filming the next installments of the operating timetable. Steve
  10. Coachman (Larry Goddard, formerly of this parish) used it for his (brass) coaches. I believe it is cellulose based, as the paint dries (the solvent evaporates) he said it was like it "shrunk onto the model". I find it has a smooth finish, but you must be careful to spray on several light coats and don't dwell anywhere. Probably worth getting a can and trying it on scrap etch or white metal and see how you get on? Steve
  11. I use self etch primer from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/primer/halfords-etch-primer-500ml-370400.html Goes on well, is hard wearing and takes acrylics, enamel and cellulose paints without a problem
  12. Doilum, You are spot on, it does. Unfortunately when the builders put the door in they didn't line up the frame properly, warping it in the process. As a result the door doesn't sit properly when closed leaving a draughty gap above the hinge on one side. Ho hum!
  13. The other option is to leave the ceiling open and insulate and board the rafters, this will allow you to install skylights in the roof. I didn't do this as my garage is on a north facing wall and shaded by the house. so overheating has never been a problem, but it can get pretty cold in the winter and the lower level of the insulated ceiling helps protect against the worst of the cold. Another consideration, if you are buying a new build, I believe that you don't pay VAT if the work is done before you complete your purchase and if the builder (or their subbies) are amenable you
  14. That's pretty much what I did to my tandem garage, with a laminate floor with a DPM and insulation underneath. Had to paint the wall that adjoins the house to cut down the dust and installed a new, double glazed/opaque double glazed access door. It has worked quite well,my one regret was not replacing the up and over door with a roller shutter type. The current door is not well installed by the builders and is almost impossible to seal to keep out the elements, dead leaves and the like. Good luck, Stephen
  15. Or Mike Sharman's "Wheel specifications for the modeller"?
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