Jump to content
 

54Strat

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    213

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Blog Comments posted by 54Strat

    RobboPetes

    Posted

    A bit of wearthering and that'll look grand.

     

    Even though the process is quite long winded, I've found I can get good results too. Make sure not to leave the salt on too long after the top coat, in fact, remove it as soon as possible. After leaving it overnight I had terrible trouble getting the effect I wanted, the hairspray (which should dissolve) became sealed in and very hard lift the salt.

     

    I also use a few grains of rock salt for bigger patches, and I've also found that you can quite easily scratch away the top coat with a scriber if you catch it early enough.

     

    Paul

    TomE

    Posted

    Now that really adds so much to the authenticity of it. For the cost, I'd be happy to offset the price with how good it looks, and it certainly looks the business.

     

    Will you spray it or brush paint it? I would think an airbrush would give you a thinner coat allowing this detail to show through better.

     

    Paul

    • Like 1
    54Strat

    Posted

    Sorry for the late reply I didn't get any notification :(

     

    I decided I wasn't happy with the colour of BR Blue, so I stripped the paint off and during the toothbrush scrubbing phase I damaged the underframe. I'll get a shot from underneath when it's repaired.

     

    Paul

    Fen End Pit

    Posted

    Hi David,

     

    You're in the best company at work to answer this question :).

     

    One pet project I've got ticking over is a tool to take a fully textured 3d model and interactively unfold it to a single plane in order to print it and assembly it. There are lots of tools that'll do this in texture space (UV space) but very few that'll do this in 3D space. So for the case of your hipped roof, one could model it in 3D and discreetly unwrap (or develop) it to a 2D plane without any calculations.

     

    One thing that's similar is this pepakura, which is a standalone app that pretty much does what I'm after, though I've not used it before it does seem quite a bit of fun and quite cheap for what it is too.

    Jim Martin

    Posted

    This is looking really good. The filler works really well. Another solution and very similar to ewsjo's way is to borrow a method from the model airplane guys and maybe use a product called Solarfilm. However, this is iron on (actually you place the iron very close for a short amount of time to stretch the fabric) so melting the plastic is a real danger. Just an idea.

     

    Paul

    bcnPete

    Posted

    Nice solution for shipping. I airmailed via DHL my 2007 challenge layout to my son for his birthday, from UK to Australia. About £200 plus $50 AUD for customs, with a risk of a 24hr fumigation at 96 degrees :unsure: But then again, what a gift for a 10 year old. :D

     

    It may be worth checking customs regulations, in and out of the country as wood can carry risks and if they so much spot a woodworm bore..... :blink: And I did buy an old keyboard flight case for the layout, but it weighed in at 15kg.I made a lightweight plywood case instead and it worked fine.

    54Strat

    Posted

    Have you tried Precision Labels? I've had some custom decals done by them twice - great service :) I'll be using him for my MSC Railway Sentinel shunter when that needs them too :)

     

    Thanks, also had a mention of redfirecracker.co.uk from ewsjo, who does a similar services, I'll keep in in mind if I don't get the results from my dabbling.

     

    Will be watching this carefully. I'm also in the process of creating decals for a few wagon projects (PHA, PXA and POA). I've got as far as producing test prints but haven't committed to printing on the transfer paper yet. I'm wondering how much thicker it is than the stuff Precision labels use?

     

    The decal paper softens quite nicely with MicoSol, so I don't think the thickness is too much of an issue.

     

    Hi,

    Highly impressed with the Fruit D, although I'd been happy with castings when involved in an uncompleted foray into O over 2 decades back I hadn't looked at whitemetal N through simple prejudice but I'm going to be correcting that - thanks.

    I too am putting together some graphics, for now some N road vehicles in my case. Colour matching is only required for a Tomytec foam tender - which actually sports two shades of red! - and again, with a conventional inkjet printer it'll be coulour on white to overwrite some of the Japanese text.

    I'll look forward to seeing your results and will post my own when I get there.

     

    Regards, Gerry.

     

    The whitemetal is quite crude in places, it was why I left of the electrical fittings on the end as it just highlighted the oversized depth of the frames on the body, though I do think the overall appearance captures the character quite well. Printing white decals is definitely a challenge, looking forward to seeing how you get on too.

    54Strat

    Posted

    Thanks guys.

     

    Redfirecracker looks good, as does Precision Labels (mentioned by James Hilton in a previous post). Thanks Jo, I'll try it once more before I'll try the professionals.

     

    As an idea for colour matching, one thing that might work is scanning in the van and decal on the same scan, and using an adjustment layer in photoshop to get a value for the hsv offsets, then apply that layer to the master.

     

    Gerry, I'm sure there's a fair bit more experimenting to be done, especially with the varnish application.

     

    Will, the tip for saving paper really gets round the barrier of wastage. I was a bit reluctant to buy some decal paper at first as I thought I'd have to fill a whole sheet up too. Just make sure all edges are taped and there's no folds in the tape, I used standard sellotape and it worked great.

    bmthtrains - David

    Posted

    The building in the lower centre in pic 4 is where I used to work for a couple of years, formerly Ocean Software, then Infogrames now Atari I think. My desk overlooked the canal, a great place to work with Dukes 92 opposite and there was always a glamour photoshoot on that footbridge, or a scene from Corrie being shot here.

     

    And you've got to model the Water Womble, youtube. It sometimes moored next our building and went up and down pulling all sorts out of the canal.

     

    Though tbo, the name 'Canal Street' is associated with Manchester in another way. ;)

     

    Here's a link some more shots of the old viaduct http://www.28dayslat...ead.php?t=47878

    54Strat

    Posted

    Thanks, I've a couple of emails sent to Cambridge and Fox. Modelmasters took up the old Woodhead range, though I'm not having much luck finding the right ones. I'll mail them as well, though afaik they only supply 2mm ones though the NGS, and due to vaguish descriptions on the NGS shop catalogue (and my ignorance it must be said) I've bought yellow ones. Thnks for the info on the boxed style.

     

    I'll see if they get back to me about sheet BL54, thanks for pointing it out to me/

     

    The weathering? Thanks for the comments but there's none on at the mo. I found by thinning the acrylics quite considerably, they kind of pooled quite nicely into the recesses giving this look, plus it's undercoated with a garter blue. The roof is a couple of coats and a tiny bit of sanding to remove a couple of dried bubbles.

    54Strat

    Posted

    Thanks everyone.

     

    The whitemetal quality is pretty good in this kit though it did require a little bit of bending to flatten the sides true, and even with just using superglue it's really quite solid; no need to add any weight to this one then. I do think one thing that lets it down is the use of the peco donors for the chassis, though I think the extra detail here and there does take away the attention from it. Overall I'm quite pleased with it so far as it's my first attempt at a wagon kit other than the peco 'almost' ready to run kits.

    grahame

    Posted

    Hi Grahame, just a small thought about the reflective nature of the glass; it was no doubt an aesthetic design consideration of the architects of Southwark towers for it to reflect it's surroundings. Once finished and sited on the layout, I'm wondering if the faces of an exhibition's audience would appear at a scale 150ft in the windows? :)

×
×
  • Create New...