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  • Location
    hastings, sussex
  • Interests
    Railways, (obviously..) Tropical fish, angling, old motorbikes, guitars (playing & making), music, learning new skills, making stuff...

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Bruciethefish's Achievements



  1. I too have only just heard this really sad news. Jeff was a lovely bloke who will be really badly missed within the hobby..
  2. Attempting to order some of these wheels, but in certain cases there's only a single set left, which is little use to man or beast.. I think they're just running down the existing stocks, rather than new production, but I sincerely hope they prove me wrong!
  3. Wooden fence posts usually weather to a greyish brown tinge when they've been subjected to sunlight for a few years, while concrete posts start off as basically light grey, but then get colonised by lichens, which can be pale blue-grey, greenish yellow, or even orange or red. A good way to reproduce this is to paint the post grey, then lightly dip an old toothbrush in a suitable weathering colour paint, point it at your parts, then pull a coffee stirrer or similar towards you so that tiny spots of the paint are flicked at the job.. This can look quite effective with a little experimentation, but beware of flicking paint where it's not wanted!
  4. I'd suggest removing the printed detail;- another way of doing this is to flood the area with microsol decal setting solution, then rub away with a cocktail stick. If the resulting surface still looks a little lumpy, you can lightly rub with a little 00000 grade wire wool. A specific plastic primer spray can be used as a barrier coat, & this will reveal any areas still requiring attention before you apply the final top coat. Incidentally, the phenomenon where previous work done on something shows through the eventual finish is known in the trade as 'witnessing'...
  5. Just out of interest, the stock at 'Golden Arrow is quite good at the moment. Most of the pens in stock will draw at the worst a 0.15mm line, while the best will go down to 0.05-ish.. I find that even Haff pens straight from the factory can be improved with a little careful work...
  6. I had trouble believing this, - not that I'm complaining... item no. 152884719003
  7. I've just been trying to list a few items, & have ended up totally sad & confused.. These category changes appear to have been organized by a total imbecile...
  8. Hi Marcus, Good move with the bowpen honing;- with care, you can get a decent quality pen to draw a sub-0.04mm line, & thereby put in the cream line;- It really does make a difference to the overall appearance of the livery, even on a weathered loco, so it's well worth the effort...
  9. The Bachmann 3F chassis is virtually identical to the 'C' class one, if it's any help!
  10. Hi Mike, It does look like something has come adrift this side;- normally the bit inside the valve-guide is motionless in these models, rather than moving about as seen here, & allowing the other rod to rise & fall.. It is probably fixable, given some dismantling...
  11. Easiest sprung replacements would be the Bachmann LNER/SR stepped ones, available as a pack of eight. These are all metal, & will require the remaining plastic buffer stocks on the Hornby loco to be sliced off, but will be a lot more durable once fitted...
  12. I'd had dealings with Peter, & he was a thoroughly decent chap, who will be much missed...
  13. I agree, many of the drawings in the Bradford Barton series are just plain wrong.. He couldn't even get the right number of steps on a STD 3 tank's bunker correct...
  14. It appears I paid my last ebay seller's fee by e-cheque;- I've absolutely no idea why this occurred, as my paypal account is linked to a card & bank account. I can only assume it's one of the mysteries involved with dealing with them both....
  15. The focal length of the lens through which the photo is taken will also have a significant effect on the perceived proportions of the image. A wide-angle lens producing a much greater distortion than a telephoto one. This is one of the reasons you need more than one photo, & preferably more than one known dimension to work from. Given that it is generally safe to assume that solebars, running plates etc are going to be parallel to the track, one can extrapolate height if a vertical dimension is known. Similarly, buffers tend to be spaced at a fairly standard distance apart as stock has to be compatible with anything it's likely to be coupled to... While whatever method one uses is likely to introduce at least some minor errors, if no reliable period drawing exists & your effort looks right, then it probably is!
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