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  • Location
    hastings, sussex
  • Interests
    Railways, (obviously..) Tropical fish, angling, old motorbikes, guitars (playing & making), music, learning new skills, making stuff...

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  1. Attempting to order some of these wheels, but in certain cases there's only a single set left, which is little use to man or beast.. I think they're just running down the existing stocks, rather than new production, but I sincerely hope they prove me wrong!
  2. Wooden fence posts usually weather to a greyish brown tinge when they've been subjected to sunlight for a few years, while concrete posts start off as basically light grey, but then get colonised by lichens, which can be pale blue-grey, greenish yellow, or even orange or red. A good way to reproduce this is to paint the post grey, then lightly dip an old toothbrush in a suitable weathering colour paint, point it at your parts, then pull a coffee stirrer or similar towards you so that tiny spots of the paint are flicked at the job.. This can look quite effective with a little experimentation,
  3. I'd suggest removing the printed detail;- another way of doing this is to flood the area with microsol decal setting solution, then rub away with a cocktail stick. If the resulting surface still looks a little lumpy, you can lightly rub with a little 00000 grade wire wool. A specific plastic primer spray can be used as a barrier coat, & this will reveal any areas still requiring attention before you apply the final top coat. Incidentally, the phenomenon where previous work done on something shows through the eventual finish is known in the trade as 'witnessing'...
  4. Just out of interest, the stock at 'Golden Arrow is quite good at the moment. Most of the pens in stock will draw at the worst a 0.15mm line, while the best will go down to 0.05-ish.. I find that even Haff pens straight from the factory can be improved with a little careful work...
  5. Hi Marcus, Good move with the bowpen honing;- with care, you can get a decent quality pen to draw a sub-0.04mm line, & thereby put in the cream line;- It really does make a difference to the overall appearance of the livery, even on a weathered loco, so it's well worth the effort...
  6. The Bachmann 3F chassis is virtually identical to the 'C' class one, if it's any help!
  7. Hi Mike, It does look like something has come adrift this side;- normally the bit inside the valve-guide is motionless in these models, rather than moving about as seen here, & allowing the other rod to rise & fall.. It is probably fixable, given some dismantling...
  8. Easiest sprung replacements would be the Bachmann LNER/SR stepped ones, available as a pack of eight. These are all metal, & will require the remaining plastic buffer stocks on the Hornby loco to be sliced off, but will be a lot more durable once fitted...
  9. I'd had dealings with Peter, & he was a thoroughly decent chap, who will be much missed...
  10. I agree, many of the drawings in the Bradford Barton series are just plain wrong.. He couldn't even get the right number of steps on a STD 3 tank's bunker correct...
  11. The focal length of the lens through which the photo is taken will also have a significant effect on the perceived proportions of the image. A wide-angle lens producing a much greater distortion than a telephoto one. This is one of the reasons you need more than one photo, & preferably more than one known dimension to work from. Given that it is generally safe to assume that solebars, running plates etc are going to be parallel to the track, one can extrapolate height if a vertical dimension is known. Similarly, buffers tend to be spaced at a fairly standard distance apart as stock has
  12. This is a lot easier to do manually if you're able to obtain photos taken from a long way away from the subject, where the image will exhibit much less distortion than in a close-up or angled view. It does help a lot to know a couple of main dimensions, such as wheelbase / diameter, distance between buffers, etc...
  13. You've opened a bit of a can of worms here... Markits do a 'Deluxe' threaded crankpin, which has a replaceable bush, upon which the rod runs, as opposed to the standard crankpin which the rods run on directly.. They supply both spacing washers, & the thick ones that come in the pack with the pins.. To be honest, the brass spacing washers are just as good as the thick ones for retaining rods on pins, though they might be a slightly larger diameter...
  14. Thanks for the plug, Phil, but I don't do a BR1G tender body, I just publish an explanation of the differences between them all as a bit of hopefully useful info... However, a phone call to the spares dept. at Bachmann will more than likely bring the correct item at a reasonable cost. I've found them extremely helpful in the past..
  15. Much of the problem can be due to the tyres being displaced on their centres, rather than the centres being eccentric on the axles;- this can be caused by by either plastic or metal swarfe being trapped between the two, or them being just badly fitted. It can pay to pull the tyre off, clean it & the centre, then press it back on again with your fingers, checking that the centre is properly seated. Once you have the tyre wobble-free, a couple of spots of superglue, applied with a wire to the back of each wheel should keep it all in place. I've found this a common problem with Gibson wheels,
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