Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Maybe just one suggestion to add to Jim's excellent and comprehensive reply: when removing the loco body, it's helpful gently to prise the body away from the chassis, and I find that cocktail sticks (possibly halved ones!) are helpful. When doing this, make sure that the point engages between the vents in the bodyside and the chassis, not between the body and the vents, as the vents should remain in the body when you open the loco. That probably sounds obvious, but it's quite easy to get inadvertently between the vents and the body housing instead! (Much the same incidentally with the Ge 4/
  2. The homepage also makes clear that he's very happy to do one-off bespoke orders too, which could help here? (I do like the fact that, as somebody who specialises in decals, his name is "Andreas Nothaft"!)
  3. Thanks! Yes, that sounds a potentially straightforward solution. Of course I've just belatedly realised that my segment turntable itself lends itself to being the isolating section...! Should have been obvious to me, but there you go....... Cheers
  4. Developing my layout, I have a siding in mind that lends itself to being a dual-purpose, integral programming track. My layout being small, I've decided to keep my basic Roco Multimaus (with 10764 amplifier / booster) just to run the trains (trains only, accessories are analogue). But for programming, I've treated myself to a SPROG II which I will hook up to my laptop to read and write to locos. So I'd like to be able to switch the power going to the siding between the track output of the Roco system (to make life simpler the 10764 doesn't even have a separate pro
  5. Aha, thanks! That was an education! (Actually it genuinely was a worthwhile read.)
  6. Another, and relatively cheap, solution is these: https://www.noch.de/de/reinigungszwerge.html They clip simply to H0m wagons' axles (rigid rather than bogie stock). My own experience is limited as my layout is still under construction, but my guess is that they are reasonably effective but probably wouldn't eradicate more stubborn dirt, as there isn't much weight pressing down on the pads. But they certainly do turn black, implying something is happening! At the other end of the cost scale, I've had one of these on pre-order for about a year now - maybe it might actual
  7. I know it won't console much at this stage, but last year I acquired the Faller laser-cut H0-scale model of Litzirüti, and I've been really impressed by it - and it is a very good representation of the prototype! Sorry....!
  8. Very nice entertainment for a rainy Sunday morning! Striking how much has changed: traction (advent of Allegra and Capricorn, and the excellent Ge 6/6 II will soon be gone), stations (especially the smaller ones being modernised) and rolling stock (those old two-axle vans!).
  9. Even nicer, one of its local stations is called "Zug-Schutzengel", probably my favourite station name anywhere. "Schutzengel" means 'guardian angel' - I love the idea that trains have angels watching over their wellbeing... ;-) PS It also took me years to work out the suffixes, Welly!
  10. Yes, I've done the Faller laser-cut models of Litirüti station and the small goods shed from Langwies (both on the Arosa line), and they were easy to make and look, in my opinion, really attractive.
  11. That sounds hugely interesting, thanks very much - but unfortunately at least for my part, Youtube says "this video is private" so I'm unable to view it. Are any others having this problem?
  • Create New...