N15class Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hi sandy. The instructions use smaller wheels but says they are the closest available. You now can get the correct ones. I thought about using smaller but that moves problems. Having the bogie as the point of the triangle it behaves more like a 0-6-0. At the moment it seems to work ok. I will motor up and check again. It may be necessary to make clearance in the frames then solder stregtheners to the inside that will almost 1.5mm extra without major butchery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Here is my David Andrews bogie with yet to be cleaned up body in background. I foresee all sorts of problems with using scale wheels which I ordered without researching matter on here. Not sure I will put mud guards on I have bought the Griffin motion intending it for this but think I might update a more simple model without so many balance/clearance probs. Just setting up slide bars under smoke box looks hard to me and must involve chopping out the bottom of the 'box. There is a lot of air under boiler and DA does provide a pretty good dummy motion. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Here is my David Andrews bogie with yet to be cleaned up body in background. I foresee all sorts of problems with using scale wheels which I ordered without researching matter on here. Not sure I will put mud guards on I have bought the Griffin motion intending it for this but think I might update a more simple model without so many balance/clearance probs. Just setting up slide bars under smoke box looks hard to me and must involve chopping out the bottom of the 'box. There is a lot of air under boiler and DA does provide a pretty good dummy motion. Looks good, a bit more elegant than the Dukedog. As far as scale bogie wheels go. I have a fixed bogie pivot. so unless the track is really poor there is enough vertical movement. It pushes through peco points OK, I will be testing soon under power. There seems to be a amount of rotational movement. I am sure three point compensation using bogie pivot is the way to go. As 2/3 of all the weight added will be on the drivers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Looks good, a bit more elegant than the Dukedog. As far as scale bogie wheels go. I have a fixed bogie pivot. so unless the track is really poor there is enough vertical movement. It pushes through peco points OK, I will be testing soon under power. There seems to be a amount of rotational movement. I am sure three point compensation using bogie pivot is the way to go. As 2/3 of all the weight added will be on the drivers. I have Slaters sprung hornblocks on the 2 driven axles not the designed compensation. It rolls along nicely. The spring provided for the bogie pivot is far too short and does not do anything at all so will have to be replaced. One unconnected thing I have noticed is that the firebox lower edge does not seem to match many pics. Most 1930's shots show a wider section at the bottom as seen here on Cornubia where the angled braces are, not an inset.between the splashers. This loco does appera to have the cover plates that I have already fitted. Any clues Dean experts? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 That looks like a cover over the firebox supports. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 I have Slaters sprung hornblocks on the 2 driven axles not the designed compensation. It rolls along nicely. The spring provided for the bogie pivot is far too short and does not do anything at all so will have to be replaced. One unconnected thing I have noticed is that the firebox lower edge does not seem to match many pics. Most 1930's shots show a wider section at the bottom as seen here on Cornubia where the angled braces are, not an inset.between the splashers. This loco does appera to have the cover plates that I have already fitted.Duke Cornubia 3254 firebox.jpg Any clues Dean experts? A lot of locos have this fillet between the firebox and footplate. I'm not exactly sure what its function is but it is usually represented by a white metal casting, in model form. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted December 31, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 31, 2015 It's a cover for the sliding support brackets on the frames at the sides of the firebox. Boilers are not bolted to the frames at the firebox end, only at the smokebox end, to allow for expansion the firebox is supported on sliding brackets fitted to the top of the frame plates. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Thanks Michael. I might carve some plastikard to suit. Avoiding the motion problem for now, I have cracked on with the cosmetics. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Thanks Michael. I might carve some plastikard to suit. Avoiding the motion problem for now, I have cracked on with the cosmetics. Looks good. How do you find your set up goes through Peco points, and do you have any idea of minimum radius? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Looks good. How do you find your set up goes through Peco points, and do you have any idea of minimum radius? I have to confess I have no idea as this pic demonstrates instant gratification not the solution to a modelling problem! Have not acquired a stronger spring for the bogie pivot pin yet. I can say I'm most impressed with Citadel chaos black in ratle can though. Never used it before and wished I had. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 it is VERY black... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 it is VERY black... The worst thing about Games Workshop paint are the juvenile names, not to mention the over the top enthusiasm of the shop assistants in their own stores. I did have to correct a SNAFU with tender as I had fillted the wrong tender floor support rendering the height too great for the fall plate. The sort of annoying task that gives little satisfaction unpicking work and then having to clean up and repaint. I had fitted the Dukedog part which suits the higher footplate of the deep framed Bulldog underpinnings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I can say I'm most impressed with Citadel chaos black in ratle can though. Never used it before and wished I had. I agree: very nice paint indeed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 After stripping the smokebox, boiler, firebox and cab off of the footplate. I have actually now started to reassemble the body. It took a lot of cleaning up as there was a lot of solder between the smoke box layers that had not melted when being assembled, and was actually oxidizing. I put new handrailson the cabsides from nickel rather than brass as it is tougher. It went together nicely and I also added the splashers within. Roof willgo back on later once I have refitted the boiler etc. I have also tidied up the firebox and tacked it back together. You can see it sits down better without filing as yet. Let's hope the smokebox lets the boiler line up correctly. That's allfor now, I am having trouble with the model making mojo. I am sure it will come back once I have put the kitchen back in the kitchen rather than in the living, dinning and modelling rooms. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 My sympathy re the mojo, Same problem with the bathroom.... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 (edited) After stripping the smokebox, boiler, firebox and cab off of the footplate. I have actually now started to reassemble the body. It took a lot of cleaning up as there was a lot of solder between the smoke box layers that had not melted when being assembled, and was actually oxidizing. I put new handrailson the cabsides from nickel rather than brass as it is tougher. It went together nicely and I also added the splashers within. Roof willgo back on later once I have refitted the boiler etc. b.jpg a.jpg I have also tidied up the firebox and tacked it back together. You can see it sits down better without filing as yet. Let's hope the smokebox lets the boiler line up correctly. c.jpg d.jpg That's allfor now, I am having trouble with the model making mojo. I am sure it will come back once I have put the kitchen back in the kitchen rather than in the living, dinning and modelling rooms. I found aligning the smokebox, barrel and fb the most challenging part of build particularly as fb does not sit on footplate on Duke. The strip around fb where it meets cab is also fun with it attendant cladding band Looking good though! Edited January 9, 2016 by LaScala 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 I found aligning the smokebox, barrel and fb the most challenging part of build particularly as fb does not sit on footplate on Duke. The strip around fb where it meets cab is also fun with it attendant cladding band Looking good though! I will keep an eye on that thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 I managed some time at the bench today. I was re assembling the boiler and smokebox. The smoke box consists of three layers of etch over rhe boiler before you get to the wrapper. Well after soldering the layers on three times removing and cleaning up, I got it right. You cannot leave any solder between thinking it would melt and allow the layers to sit right. The two piece front was soldered on. Tested in place and fount to be sitting about 0.5mm to far forward. Trying to find out now if it is the boiler or firebox. No photos as it got to late SWMBO needed picking up. and I was not in the right frame of mine after the smokebox episode. Hopefully a mor productive day tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 I managed some time at the bench today. I was re assembling the boiler and smokebox. The smoke box consists of three layers of etch over rhe boiler before you get to the wrapper. Well after soldering the layers on three times removing and cleaning up, I got it right. You cannot leave any solder between thinking it would melt and allow the layers to sit right. The two piece front was soldered on. Tested in place and fount to be sitting about 0.5mm to far forward. Trying to find out now if it is the boiler or firebox. No photos as it got to late SWMBO needed picking up. and I was not in the right frame of mine after the smokebox episode. Hopefully a mor productive day tomorrow. I had exact same issue with my Duke smokebox front being bent forward when boiler was slipped forced between firebox and smokebox. Most of the problem for me at any rate was the cab front being too far forward between its sides. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 I pleased to say I have got back to work, not with mojo at full speed. After spending what seemed an eternity on the boiler smoke and fire boxes. They have fitted nicely back into place. As you can see a much better than before. It gives me a little more enthusiasm to carry on. I also managed to finish off the frames. The brakes and rigging were added, the hangers and shoes had already been assembled when I got the kit. Then it was just the sanding pipes to be fitted, to these I added a strap to hold them in place. But it does make getting the brake assemble of very difficult. I decided that although the system of compensation I have used works well and I seem to have enough clearence. I thought I would arch the frames just to makesure. I had to add a backing of frame etch waste to give them some strength again. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Nice to see you back in action. I still have another 10 days before I can get back to the B1................ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Nice to see you back in action. I still have another 10 days before I can get back to the B1................ Thanks David. I hope the shows were successful. When will you be getting Gladiatorup to speed? It seems like I have had this Dukedog on the bench for months. But I am pleased we seem to be going forward with it now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Aa I had got the loco frames upto painting I thought I should do the tender frames to the same state. I have gone with 3 point compensation. The front two axles have side beams and the rear has a centre pivot. It was done this way as it was the least cuuting around of spacers.It was done in the same manner as the loco apart from the side beams are non removable. Here it is under construction. Here we have it with all parts fited with wheels in to test and in need of a clean up. Hopefully more soon, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Thanks David. I hope the shows were successful. When will you be getting Gladiatorup to speed? It seems like I have had this Dukedog on the bench for months. But I am pleased we seem to be going forward with it now. Thanks Peter. Gladiator is well on the way to being up and running. I spent yesterday casting white metal with Geoff, etches and castings have been ordered for the first 10 loco kits - just over 40 models in total. Even at cost that puts a big hole in your wallet.................We are at Bristol this weekend so look forward to seeing everybody. You are excused - a trip for the weekend not being a practical proposition! Tender frames looking good. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 Today was fitting the brakes. It took longer than the loco mainly because nothing had been made by the previous owner. Itall went together well until I came to the pull rods. One I managed to put them on upside down, and secondly they are to long. I cured this by a bit of cutting, bending and resoldering it was cured. You can see how much to long in this photo. The over lap is the difference. I also fitted the water scoop but still need to add the linkage to the front. I am not sure if it is actually big enough. It would notreach between the rails. I am not going to change it as I do not want to go overboard with adding extras. I am looking forward to geting the tender footplate done so I can check the two frames together. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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