N15class Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 I did not think fitting brake gear to an etched kit could take so long. The rigging is scratch built as the parts as the parts in the kit were not right, although they could of been used. This shows the brake shoes and hangers. Also the footplate supports. You will note the front one needs a little modification to clear the wheel and possible shorts. Now we can see the brake cross shaft and mounting plates these I made along with the three levers on it. Not sure where the cylinder came from but it fitted. The pull rod and adjuster linking the brake shaft to the front crosstie was all made. The completed brake rigging. Still a bit of tidying up to do but I think it looks right now. And for all the effort what will you see? Not a lot as this will be behind the bogie wheels.The brake shaft is loose and will only be fixed on final assembly so the brakes can be removed. It also needs shortening. Finally I have assembled one of the crossheads, It still needs a piece to take the union link and a nut for the connecting rod fixing. Now just need to get the other one to look same. Trying to keep 8 bits from falling apart whilst adding more is always fun You will of noticed that the wheels have been backened and the crank pin screws added. I was hoping to try it with the coupling rods but the brakes took up a lot of time. The balance weights have also been blackened ready for glueing on. Well thats it for now more soon hopefully 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 I seem to of been caught out. I had a packet arrive today. It contained my order from Narrow Planet. Very nice etchings they are too. So it seems like my plenty of time to paint the Dukedog has just run out. I also got some others too mainly for me but I did get a smokebox plater for the S15 Now what were the rest for? 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted April 16, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 16, 2016 Do I spy builders plate for a T9, a radial tank and a 395? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Hope so. Not forgetting the Jubilee in the pile....... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 (edited) Do I spy builders plate for a T9, a radial tank and a 395? Hope so. Not forgetting the Jubilee in the pile....... The builders plates are for 695 Dubs (700), 607 Neilson (A12), 0439 Neilson (0395) I think I made a bo bo with 147 I will need to check on Monday it should be a K10. But a 460 class would be nice even if withdrawn before my modelling period. I have a builders plate for a radial in stock along with a pair of single slidebars and crossheads, and a bogie. Edited April 16, 2016 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted April 16, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 16, 2016 I forgot Dübs did the 700. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 I forgot Dübs did the 700. There may be a T9 at some stage. But I want a K10 and one of the elegant Adam's 4-4-0's first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 Just a little more done most of the day was spent shopping for tiles ect for the building works going on at home. I also swapped over the fan in the workshop as the one we had in there as a bederoom was a little light weight. I managed to finish off the crossheads. I also added some short lengths of small angle to supportthe join between the bars and the motion bracket. I also made some oil pots for the top of the top slide bar as these are prominent in most pictures. It is now time to get the cylinders finished and get the valve gear assembled and working. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 2 days 10 hour days at the house and I only managed about 2 hours at the bench. I feel sorry for our builders, as I keep a close eye on them and get to see their mistakes as or before they make them. Back to the progress not a lot but we are heading in the right directing. I started by blackening the nickel balance weights, these were then glued in place on the wheels. Next up was the forming of the cylinder wrappers. These are a bit unusual in that there are parts that need to be wrapped around the valve piston castings. Here's a couple of shots with them in place before fixing. Once the covers were in place, i fitted a small diameter tube for the valve rod to run in. The castings were then soldered over this. I still need to make something that looks like the piston glands. There is also a frame to hold the expansion link to be made. I have not got myhead around this as yet, the parts in the kit do not match the drawing so I need to check the length of the radius rod before I start altering things. It looks Like a I ave a littlle fettling to do to get the footplate to site properly. It is almost there, beginning to look right. Holiday here Thursday so no work till Friday at least. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Slightly OT, but I'm sure this famous record label: ...could be suitably modified to "nfp" (i.e. "not for peter") 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 I went back to the Dukedog to strip it down and get it clean for painting. There were a few bits that needed finishing, the ties under the driving wheel axleboxes, and a few cab details. This is all done and has been given a good scrub is ready for a final inspection before I add the paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 This must be so much easier than being President of Brazil..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 I suspect that making love in a hammock, whilst standing up and wearing roller skates, is probably easier than that, right now. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 I didn't know Dilma could skate! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 I didn't know Dilma could skate! She's been specialising in thin ice for quite a while! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 This must be so much easier than being President of Brazil..... The house past the impeachment onto the senate now so time will see. But it must be difficult to know how much of your bribes to use to bribe other politions so you can keep getting bribes. As a leader I think she is now useless to the country on the world stage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 I have not done much I am sort of mojo less at the moment. I soldered the valve gear togther and cleaned most of it up. I need to sort out the pivot for the expansion link, but have not, cannotgetmy head around it. Yes I know it will simple but not just at the minute. To try and get the mojo working I decided to go to the body and see if that will joult me into action. I have made the smokebox, boiler, firebox unit. To do this I made up some discs to solder inside them. The kit comes with one for the fire box next to the cab, a slot in the top of the boiler at the front of the fire box but nothing to fit into it.and a disc for the front of the this section. There is nothing for the tapered section, and then the smoke box front. The smokebox front as mentioned before was 3mm to high I also found out it was also about 2-2.5mm to large in diameter too. The way the kit was designed the smokeboxe would of been larger than the boiler where it is about the same size, Ihad to extend the front of the tappered section to allow positive fit between it and the smokebox. As it is it seems to be the right length although it is just loosely fitted together at the moment. A lot of fiddling but I think it was worth it. I noticed that there is no drops on the endofthe hanging iron on the loco. So this needs to be sorted. The front is now done and the rear still to do. Obviously this would of been or should of been sorted at test build stage along with the other errors I also sorted out the drag beam. I found it had been made the same width as the buffer beam, which is a lot narrower than the cab end. You can see the amount I had to add the make it fit. Having put the boiler and cab front onto the footplate I see a big square hole each side ofthe cab. I reckon the cab waslifted off the N15 kit drawing and someone forgot that the S15's don't have a large splasher. Something elsetosort out. So doI fill or cut new? There must be one part of the cab that is usable. Has the mojo returned? We will find out tomorrow when I face the faults found today. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Pete There's some bits missing: The expansion link needs to be held at its ends by a pair of same-banana-shaped plates. These plates are then pivoted by their centre, in the motion bracket. The whole assembly of plates and expansion link is rigid and wobbles in accordance with the position of the return crank. These plates are spaced out from the link by enough to allow the lifting link to fit in the gap. Usually both sides, but you could cheat and just have it behind the expansion link. I think you need the plates & spacers. The middle hole of the lifting link is for a pivot pin for the die block which slides up and down inside the curved slot in the expansion link. The tail of the lifting link is held up by the links from the reversing shaft levers. The front of it is attached to the top of the combination lever, which is supported in turn by the valve spindle crosshead. This is a Brit, it isn't quite the same, but might help you visualise it https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britanniabuilder.com%2FKit13expansionlink.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britanniabuilder.com%2Fkit13.htm&docid=bO4z3YkRL3_4XM&tbnid=O73nJhJWUuWdKM%3A&w=800&h=600&hl=en-GB&bih=649&biw=1024&ved=0ahUKEwjXuOHl4rDMAhXLI8AKHY_JBaYQMwgiKAcwBw&iact=mrc&uact=8 If I can find a better or more relevant image, I'll post it up here. Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) ......If I can find a better or more relevant image, I'll post it up here. One here? Another here Edited April 28, 2016 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Ah, perfect. Nicely shows off my ignorance of pale green locos.. ok, slight adjustment to my earlier treatise; the back hole is attached to the die block. the middle hole is attached to the lifting link that is in turn supported by the weigh-shaft / reverser. front hole as described above. The expansion link itself is supported by a pair of trunnions that come round from the back, in the middle, more like the Brit than the box-type link I incorrectly described above. I hope this has clarified rather than confused the matter!!!! best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 View from behind (B&W, not very clear, admittedly) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 Thanks for the pictures Ivan. They will be added to my collection. Simon. Thanks for the help. The return crank is missing from the photo, but not from the kit. I actually have not been able to fathom out how to mount the expansion link mountings so that they and the link can be removed. As it is joined to the motion bracket etc. It will make the cylinder assembly long and fragile. I want to try and add some strength to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) .... I actually have not been able to fathom out how to mount the expansion link mountings so that they and the link can be removed. As it is joined to the motion bracket etc. It will make the cylinder assembly long and fragile. ... That's a tough one. The expansion link and its trunnions form one sub-assembly, and look a bit like the letter "E" when viewed from above. The trunnions pivot in the carrier frame. To me the question is whether you fix the trunnions/pivots permanently in the frame (use rivets as the pivot pins?), or make them removable from the frame (tiny screws used as pivots). The carrier frame can form its own sub-assembly and does not have to be joined to the cylinder and motion bracket sub-assembly. Here's an exploded diagram which could substitute for that on the S15, since it is arranged in very much the same way Edited April 28, 2016 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Peter Your biggest problem is to decide what to do about the reversing lifting link. Unlike LMS engines the link is forward of the block, and above the footplate, so connecting together is problematical. I made them dummy and they are not actually attached which makes separation of the body and chassis easier. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 That's a tough one. The expansion link and its trunnions form one sub-assembly, and look a bit like the letter "E" when viewed from above. The trunnions pivot in the carrier frame. To me the question is whether you fix the trunnions/pivots permanently in the frame (use rivets as the pivot pins?), or make them removable from the frame (tiny screws used as pivots). The carrier frame can form its own sub-assembly and does not have to be joined to the cylinder and motion bracket sub-assembly. Here's an exploded diagram which could substitute for that on the S15, since it is arranged in very much the same way The carrier frame is the problem as it is attached to the motion bracket. It will probably be straight forward once I actually cut metal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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