Tove Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 Looking really good mate. Im chomping at the bit to get going in the loft!! Have a great Christmas with the family. Rich Sound`s good Rich,egarly awiting development`s...! And like wise, you and your family have most excellent Christmas. Cheers mate, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 Merry Christmas Brian, to you and your Family, and here's to 2017. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 Merry Christmas and a great modelling New Year Brian Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 Thanks,Andy & Jinty. I hope you both had a good Xmas,and did`nt partake of too much falling down water!. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 Well with the family visit`s taken care of for a few day`s,i thought i`d make a start on my wagon kit`s for the small engineers train that i`m building. The first three wagons will be based on pictures that were found on Paul Bartlet`s site,these are from my local/modeled area,so they were purchased.. http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/grampuszbo/h37842b19#h37842b19 http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/grampuszbo/h37842b19#h24309e88 http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/grampuszbo/h37842b19#hb1d55c6 So first off,it`s the Parkside Grampus wagon`s. These will be built pretty much as per the kit,but with a couple of small 'improvements'!. The kit..... OK, the first thing that i`ve changed is the couplings.I`ve substituted the kit`s plastic instanter & brass link`s for the cast Slaters one along with their steel link`s.This because the one bug bear that i have with 7mm 3 links is that,i`ve seen some beautifully built and finished 7mm models but the 3 links are left as is and not soldered closed....So this is the first thing i`ve done,plus i`ve also re-shaped the Parkside hook to allow more movement of the links. It`s a bit of a curel close up,but hopefully you`ll appreciate the difference!. Anyhow, i moved on to the bodies,and before long all three were put together,using the piece of glass to keep the top edges level,and the body square. From the bodies i moved on to fitting the alxe boxes into 'W' iron`s,and then the solbar`s into the grooves in the underside of the floor. Then followed by the chassis member molding,which was gluded in place after the small molded pip`s were taken off first. I have to add here,that whilst i was cleaning up the axle boxes,i took a little too much off a couple of them, and as a consequence some don`t quite stay in place.So i`m going to have to glue one of the axles in place, and then add some springy wire to give the other axle some compensation. Well as you can see they are at least looking sort of like wagon`s,but tomorrow i should have the remaining underframe part`s fitted along with the buffers.(these i should have put on when doing the coupling`s!) Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 Hi Brian, It looks like you've been very busy! You've made a top job of those Grampus wagons. I'll keep watching as paint is applied. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 Excellent work Brian, thanks for the pics, I have one to build up soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 Hi Brian, It looks like you've been very busy! You've made a top job of those Grampus wagons. I'll keep watching as paint is applied. Cheers Lee Thanks Lee, The reworking working of the coupling`s took longer than the main build,but they do go togther fairly quick once you know how to build these kit`s. As for paint,i`ve still got to get some and extra transfers,so that probably won`t happen till mid Jan and after the next three kit`s are built!. Excellent work Brian, thanks for the pics, I have one to build up soon. Thanks Andy, A modeller of your experience will knock one of these out in no time i`m sure..... Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted December 27, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 27, 2016 three rolling bodies.jpg Well as you can see they are at least looking sort of like wagon`s,but tomorrow i should have the remaining underframe part`s fitted along with the buffers.(these i should have put on when doing the coupling`s!) Brian. Hi Brian, Wow! Have you thought about a wagon building business ... speedy builders uk Look good mate, very impressed. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 Hi Brian, Wow! Have you thought about a wagon building business ... speedy builders uk Look good mate, very impressed. Rich Only if i was paid lot`s a money mate....... Ok carrying on from yesterday i thought i start by fitting the buffers,something that i would have usally done before fitting the end`s..douhh Anyhow the buffers have a small ring that`s attached to the face,and these can be a little fiddley to clean up and put on. So in the next two pictures you see my way round this. If you take a small round neddle file, (or called a jewllers file) and slide the ring on, you`ll then be able to clean up the outside and also may the hole bigger if need`s be. Next up by using the buffer head shank you can align and glue the ring in place on the buffer body.(i used butanone for these as it goes off quick) Next step was to fit the brake shoe mouldings after they`d been cleaned paying particular attention the brake shoes.Then they were fitted making sure that they both mirrored each other,plus one of the large 'V' hangers. At this point i substituted the plastic rod that fit`s between both mouldings (the cross shaft)for some brass tube/rod.At this point i sorted out which side the cranked brake level is fitted to,(see pics futher down) because the rod does`nt go all the way to the back of the 'V' hanger on that side.Once the rod was cut and slid through the holes,the second large 'V' hanger was fitted followed by (not in pic below) the smaller 'V' hanger on the cranked lever side,along with the brake lever guides. The next item up were the basket`s for the underneath,two off. A before and after pic And fitted to the underside,noting the right orientation.You may also need to trim the very end strut to clear the nut for the buffer. And so on too the final bit`s for today..... The regular brake lever was fitted,no problem`s there..... The cranked brake lever,was well,a pain in the backside to fit.. Were`s the regular one fitted to the 'V' hanger on the outside,the cranked one need`s to fit behind it.Hence the reason for the cross shaft not fitting flush behind both of the 'V' hangers. Anyway the brake level has to be GENTLEY bent to fit behind the large 'V' hanger and flat against the small 'V' hanger and then curve again to fit in the guide further along. Let`s just say it now fit`s......though it did seem to be just a little short at the bottom pivot,so i added a little plastic to fill the gap left behind the 'V' hanger!. This is the only one done so far,so i shall see if there`s a better way of getting it to fit properly on the next two,though mind you perhaps a brass brake lever,like the Slaters ones would have been better;ie a lot thinner and better suited to bending!. Though it does`nt look too bad at the moment....... Once i`ve finished the other two too this stage,then i`ll add the various brass bit`s. Cheers, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted December 27, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 27, 2016 Looking good Brian, What are the baskets for underneath? Not seen or noticed them before. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 The baskets are for the end planks so that they can be stowed safely away when the wagons are used for things such as plant that they want to cross from one wagon to another. Least I think that's right!! Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Rich,as Jinty has correctly pointed out the basket`s are for stowing away the end boards,when not need. The picture four down might illustrate things a bit better here; http://www.yorkareagroup.co.uk/76-2/grampus-991840/ And a closer look at the prototype basket`s part way down,here; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/84538-help-with-parkside-dundas-grampus-sought-4mm/ Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 First off ,a happy new year to everyone. Well the Grampus wagon`s are now built,but not without a few hicup`s here and there...... In my last build post i eluded to the fact that i`d taken too much off the axle boxes on a couple of the wagon`s,allowing them to pull through the 'W' iron`s slightly.So i decided to take them apart and modifiy them to ressemble the prototype`s a little better. Once apart i file the axle boxes to a rectangle shape and glued them to a spare back plate included in the part`s sprue`s,and then re-assembled as per the instruction`s.I have also added a small length of wire to one side, to represent the bolt that hold`s the axle box front on as well.This will need to be blended in a bit better before painting.(As too will the corners of the main body) Also the Axle boxes are a bit deeper than they should be,but with some paint and weather they should`nt (hopfully) look too bad!. Next up were the brass part`s,all fairly straight forward to fit,till i came too the corner step`s..... The bending is straight forward enough,but you do need to be carfull with bending the 45 degree angle for the buffer beam attachment. Below is a rough guide to making the bend`s. One thing to note is that in the last step (#4) when the end`s are folded over to form the back and sides to the step`s,i found that i`d got no room for the step back to sit flush!.This is probably because i did`nt leave enough room for it,when bending that final bit upward`s though i`m not sure.But at any rate,i decided to remove and solder the back piece in place,thus making the whole thing stronger in the process. (a very cruel close up of the soldering!) Well for now that is about it for these,as i need to buy some extra transfers and then put a coat of paint on to prime them for weathering. But only if we get a warmer day that is. Next on the list is a lone sand wagon,again from Parkside,and a lot simpler to build.... Cheers, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hello Brian, shame there isn't a choice to press two buttons, as I wanted to say like & informative / useful, thanks for putting that up on your thread. Best regards Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hi Brian, That's a very helpful guide to forming the brass etch steps. Do you have a hold and fold device? I have to say that those Grampus wagons look great, with some nice mods and I for one am looking forward to seeing them with a coat of paint and copious amounts of rust applied Is that the Heljian class 25 pictured above? Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted January 2, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2017 A tip I picked up from Chris Basten of Dragon Models was to relieve the half etched lines with a small file until a witness mark appears on the non etched side. You get a much easier and crisper fold. What you cannot do is to then bend it back as it will snap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hello Brian, shame there isn't a choice to press two buttons, as I wanted to say like & informative / useful, thanks for putting that up on your thread. Best regards Craig. Hi Criag, Thanks for the complimentJ just knowing that folk`s look in is enough for me.If it`s useful as well,...then even better!. Hi Brian, That's a very helpful guide to forming the brass etch steps. Do you have a hold and fold device? I have to say that those Grampus wagons look great, with some nice mods and I for one am looking forward to seeing them with a coat of paint and copious amounts of rust applied Is that the Heljian class 25 pictured above? Cheers Lee Hi Lee, The only tool`s for folding brass i have are too big for these small part`s,so i resorted to a small vice,hence the clean up mark`s. As for the class 25, it is the Heljan one though, it`s a fair way down the list of priorities at the moment as i`m still looking at how to make the alteration`s i need for it to fit in with my time frame. A tip I picked up from Chris Basten of Dragon Models was to relieve the half etched lines with a small file until a witness mark appears on the non etched side. You get a much easier and crisper fold. What you cannot do is to then bend it back as it will snap. Thanks for the tip,definitley something to remember for future use. The only real problem i had though was the step fold as there is`nt a half etch for this,so i did`nt allow enough room for the back of the step. But as it`s turned out,soldering them has made a stronger unit!. Thanks guy`s, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Great work on the Grampus Brian and thanks for the pics of the step building, that will be useful when I come to do mine. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 A tip I picked up from Chris Basten of Dragon Models was to relieve the half etched lines with a small file until a witness mark appears on the non etched side. You get a much easier and crisper fold. What you cannot do is to then bend it back as it will snap. Also you can use an old knife blade. Alternatively you can make a scrawking tool from an old hacksaw blade. Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Not too much going on with the layout at the moment,other than getting a base coat of paint on the Grampus wagons for so there ready weathering later. And plus i`ve started (and almost finished) one of two Peco iron ore tippler wagons for the PW train. This is the picture i`m using for this one,and no my model won`t have the detached buffer as well!; http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/ingotmould/h1689907e#h1689907e Anyway, as it`s got roller bearing`s i thought i`d have a go at putting them on this model as well. So with the spare ones from the Grampus build`s,i went about modifing the Peco axle boxes. Hopefully the next three pictures are clear enough to show how this was done. ** the plastic peco use for the axle boxes is quite soft,so it can be cut very easily with a sharpe knife,though it does`nt seem to like being filed!** As i said at the start,i`ve almost finished this wagon. But first i need to solder up the link`s and then add the buffers. It does`nt look too bad,but one thing is for sure, the inside is going to need some filling before it`s painted,this is because the side`s are made up of three sections. Cheers. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Nice job on the tippler, and great 'how to' as well. I wasn't aware that the Peco tippler sides were in three parts!! Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Nice job on the tippler, and great 'how to' as well. I wasn't aware that the Peco tippler sides were in three parts!! Jinty Cheer`s Jinty, It`s quite a straight forward,if a little fiddley to convert the axles boxes.Though i`m sure if someone else were to take a bit more time than i did,you could take the Roller bearing thickness right down so the top sit`s flush with the leaf spring. As for the sides...... I don`t know if it`s only this kit,or if it`s done so they can swap end`s and middles with their 16 tonner kit as well. I can`t say a this is the only Peco wagon i`ve built to date. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 First off ,a happy new year to everyone. Well the Grampus wagon`s are now built,but not without a few hicup`s here and there...... In my last build post i eluded to the fact that i`d taken too much off the axle boxes on a couple of the wagon`s,allowing them to pull through the 'W' iron`s slightly.So i decided to take them apart and modifiy them to ressemble the prototype`s a little better. Modified axle boxes.jpg Once apart i file the axle boxes to a rectangle shape and glued them to a spare back plate included in the part`s sprue`s,and then re-assembled as per the instruction`s.I have also added a small length of wire to one side, to represent the bolt that hold`s the axle box front on as well.This will need to be blended in a bit better before painting.(As too will the corners of the main body) Also the Axle boxes are a bit deeper than they should be,but with some paint and weather they should`nt (hopfully) look too bad!. Next up were the brass part`s,all fairly straight forward to fit,till i came too the corner step`s..... Brass fittings.jpg The bending is straight forward enough,but you do need to be carfull with bending the 45 degree angle for the buffer beam attachment. Below is a rough guide to making the bend`s. step bending.jpg One thing to note is that in the last step (#4) when the end`s are folded over to form the back and sides to the step`s,i found that i`d got no room for the step back to sit flush!.This is probably because i did`nt leave enough room for it,when bending that final bit upward`s though i`m not sure.But at any rate,i decided to remove and solder the back piece in place,thus making the whole thing stronger in the process. (a very cruel close up of the soldering!) soldered corner steps.jpg Well for now that is about it for these,as i need to buy some extra transfers and then put a coat of paint on to prime them for weathering. But only if we get a warmer day that is. PW train.jpg Next on the list is a lone sand wagon,again from Parkside,and a lot simpler to build.... Cheers, Brian. I like the way that you are demoing your build of the PSD Gampus and the Peco axle boxes, some fiddly work nicely photographed and explained - a case of a picture paints a thousand words. Happy New Year to all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Cheer`s Jinty, It`s quite a straight forward,if a little fiddley to convert the axles boxes.Though i`m sure if someone else were to take a bit more time than i did,you could take the Roller bearing thickness right down so the top sit`s flush with the leaf spring. As for the sides...... peco iron ore tippler side.jpg I don`t know if it`s only this kit,or if it`s done so they can swap end`s and middles with their 16 tonner kit as well. I can`t say a this is the only Peco wagon i`ve built to date. Brian. If IIRC Brian, there are interchangeable parts for these kits and Webters did a superb job of designing the Iron Ore Tippler, 16T Mineral and Pig Iron/Coil wagons, in terms of quality of parts, fit and ease of build etc. they seem to just fall together - a joy to build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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