Hornby dublo

[sagaguy]

2 hours ago, Wolseley said:

 

No, I was talking about the real thing.  I must confess that the WD Austerities fall a bit outside my area of knowledge, and I had assumed they were bogie tenders.  I stand corrected.....

No mistaking a WD tender,my O gauge tender from my WD 2-8-0 build

 

                    Ray

[Wolseley]

On 24/01/2024 at 10:38, sagaguy said:

Try these for starters,to fit SD coaches

 

 

 

Hi Ray.

 

Just one question if I may.  When using these, is it best to print them on ordinary paper and glue them on (as with the old style litho papers), or print them on adhesive paper and stick them on (as with the sort of overlays that the late Laurence Hogg sold)?  I suspect that the latter might be the better way to go, given that they are to be stuck onto metal, but I'm not sure.  Also, as I will have to use an inkjet printer, any excess liquid glue might cause a run in the finish.

 

Jim

[sagaguy]

6 hours ago, Wolseley said:

 

 

Hi Ray.

 

Just one question if I may.  When using these, is it best to print them on ordinary paper and glue them on (as with the old style litho papers), or print them on adhesive paper and stick them on (as with the sort of overlays that the late Laurence Hogg sold)?  I suspect that the latter might be the better way to go, given that they are to be stuck onto metal, but I'm not sure.  Also, as I will have to use an inkjet printer, any excess liquid glue might cause a run in the finish.

 

Jim

I used 150gsm gloss photo paper,I blackened the cut white edges with a chisel black marker pen,preformed the tumblehome between my fingers and stuck them on using 6mm double sided tape.Hope this helps.

 

                                Ray.

[Wolseley]

Thanks.  I'll give it a go.

 

Jim

[Wolseley]

One thing about the "Duchesses" was the variety of liveries they carried - just about everything imaginable.  My version of Queen Elizabeth is finished in the plain black she wore for a short time after having the streamlining removed.  She was soon afterwards repainted in the then new LMS post-war lined black livery.  This model is a repainted Dublo City of London (which I bought in a rather scruffy state and minus a tender) converted to three rail and coupled to a tinplate Dublo Duchess of Montrose tender (mainly because they're cheaper and easier to find than City of London tenders).

 

[rockershovel]

Seeing the mention of a Hornby Dublo 0-6-0 diesel shunter, I had to have a look. I see they produced a proper outside frame one, no less than I'd expect from Binns Rd I suppose 

[Captain Slough]

What IS IT with the mechanisms binding up over time though?   

 

Over the last 2 weeks I'v been through a box of mixed Triang and Dublo engines that have all been in that box in an attic since 1999,with a view to eBaying them. Every single one of the Triangs ran straight away. Not one of the Dublos did. they do seem very vulnerable to the worm drive locking onto the axle gear as the lubricant dries up.  I took a few of them apart and if you turn the motors the wheels turn but they are ridiculously stiff.. almost wondering if theres corrosion inside the axle journals.  

 

I'll strip them all down (2 N2s, a 4MT, a Class 20, 2 R1s, 2 8Fs, a diesel shunter & an A4) to clean up and lube up when I have some spare time. I know they'll run after that as they buzz when power is applied, the motor wants to spin but can't

Edited February 14 by Captain Slough

[cypherman]

On 14/02/2024 at 15:21, Captain Slough said:

What IS IT with the mechanisms binding up over time though?   

 

Over the last 2 weeks I'v been through a box of mixed Triang and Dublo engines that have all been in that box in an attic since 1999,with a view to eBaying them. Every single one of the Triangs ran straight away. Not one of the Dublos did. they do seem very vulnerable to the worm drive locking onto the axle gear as the lubricant dries up.  I took a few of them apart and if you turn the motors the wheels turn but they are ridiculously stiff.. almost wondering if theres corrosion inside the axle journals.  

 

I'll strip them all down (2 N2s, a 4MT, a Class 20, 2 R1s, 2 8Fs, a diesel shunter & an A4) to clean up and lube up when I have some spare time. I know they'll run after that as they buzz when power is applied, the motor wants to spin but can't

Hi Captain. 

I have about 30 Hornby Dublo engines. Many have been in storage for 25 years+. Only taken out occasionally for a little bit of pre-emptive servicing. I have never had this problem. But then again they have always been kept in warm dry places. So that may be the reason for this.

[locomad2]

On 14/02/2024 at 15:21, Captain Slough said:

. Not one of the Dublos did. they do seem very vulnerable to the worm drive locking onto the axle gear as the lubricant dries up.  I took a few of them apart and if you turn the motors the wheels turn but they are ridiculously stiff.. almost wondering if theres corrosion inside the axle journals.  

 

I'll strip them all down (2 N2s, a 4MT, a Class 20, 2 R1s, 2 8Fs, a diesel shunter & an A4) to clean up and lube up when I have some spare time. I know they'll run after that as they buzz when power is applied, the motor wants to spin but can't

 

 

Yes you do the axles sometimes seize up solid.

 

My late father left us a few HD models, he kept a R1 chassis with a Wills body he built  in a glass cabinet for a few years over a central heating radiator.  The axles were solid, despite using butane gas, drilling into the axle holes and injecting oil etc I just couldn't free the axles. The motor was ok as easy to undo, in the end forced the axles out and damaged the spined ends using a 10 ton hydraulic press used for car repairs.  They seemed to be a lot of different metal to metal corrosion and a kind of saltly white powder. In the 70's he used a lot of peco "electrolube" as the main lubricant, I didn't like it as locos left over a few months just seem to run poorly, as I started to use my own layout and stock I used singer machine oil and even 3 in 1, these locos are still in use today

[Captain Slough]

1 hour ago, locomad2 said:

peco "electrolube" 

 

has also been used on every one of the now seized-up Dublo engines

[SR71]

Arrrrrrgh! Electrolube.

 

I used to do repairs for a model shop in the late 90's and that stuff was the worst. It just got everywhere and when you thought you'd cleaned it more would seemingly seep out. My HD gets annoyed at being left. Runs fine on leads but on track will take a good few laps to run properly.

[cypherman]

Hi all,

Now I know this is going to raise some peoples hackles and rouse people ire shouting heresy. But I use small amounts of ultra low viscosity 0W-16 viscosity motor oil. I have been using it over the last 10 years and have never had a problem with it. All I can say is before you decry it. Just try it. It is applied though with a syringe and a fine needle. Take an old loco that you are not too bothered about and try it. You may like it or you may hate it. That's up to you.

Edited February 17 by cypherman

[andyman7]

12 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

Now I know this is going to raise some peoples hackles and rouse people ire shouting heresy. But I use small amounts of ultra low viscosity 0W-16 viscosity motor oil. I have been using it over the last 10 years and have never had a problem with it. All I can say is before you decry it. Just try it. It is applied though with a syringe and a fine needle. Take an old loco that you are not too bothered about and try it. You may like it or you may hate it. That's up to you.

Hornby Dublo mechs, being old school metal can take these machine oils. These oils generally have to be avoided like the plague due to their effect on hard plastics but that's not really an issue on the old HD stuff

[cypherman]

6 hours ago, andyman7 said:

Hornby Dublo mechs, being old school metal can take these machine oils. These oils generally have to be avoided like the plague due to their effect on hard plastics but that's not really an issue on the old HD stuff

HI Andyman7. 

The oil I use is fully synthetic and therefore unlike fossil based oils does not affect the plastics. Sorry I should have said this in my earlier post.

Edited February 17 by cypherman

[Wolseley]

I have been using Labelle 102 as my lubricant of choice for at least 8 years now and don't have any issues with it.

[Wolseley]

And, although I have had quite a lot of Dublo locomotives that have been in drastic need of a service when I bought them, I haven't had any that acted as if they were seized up, other than one 0-6-2T chassis which must have been assembled from left-over bits and pieces.  It would only travel very roughly in one direction and wouldn't move when you tried to change direction.  After dismantling it I discovered the reason - it had a coarse threaded worm, and a fine threaded gearwheel......

[locomad2]

On 17/02/2024 at 11:00, cypherman said:

Hi all,

Now I know this is going to raise some peoples hackles and rouse people ire shouting heresy. But I use small amounts of ultra low viscosity 0W-16 viscosity motor oil. I have been using it over the last 10 years and have never had a problem with it. All I can say is before you decry it. Just try it. It is applied though with a syringe and a fine needle. Take an old loco that you are not too bothered about and try it. You may like it or you may hate it. That's up to you.

 

 

 

Very much agree with you, about 15 years ago tended to start using "airline 10" very light oil used as in line lubricant for air tools, then it was about £5 for 5 litres, you dont need much for model locos

 

Another problem is actually getting a very small drop onto the very small bearing either end of HD motors, city and 2-6-4T as example. Medical syringes and needles are not easily found.  I now use and empty "polycemment" bottle, as used for making plastic kits, with a 0.7mm bore metal needle. By putting long 0.6mm wire (mig welding wire) down it  you can restrict the flow. BTW same wire can be used to clear the hard poly glue sticking in the tube.

 

I now find most need re oiling once a year, ampmeter reading taken before and after running, I notice  on average a reduction of amps of about 10% is noticed. I also listen carefully as they run and notice they run more smoothly. Constant and regular oiling is a very important job on keeping locomotives in excellent running order.

 

 

[SR71]

A question on the N2 chassis motor bottom bearing. I'm reworking one and got to the cleaning and painting stage. Previous chassis I've done the bottom ball bearing has been embedded but come out after degreasing and a gentle prod with a screw driver.

 

 

This one won't shift even after degreasing, brake cleaner, soaking with meths, prodding, and waving a magnet at it. I'm erring on leaving it in place and masking off. Anyone had experiences that would suggest this is a bad plan?

 

My only option really now would be to push the whole cup out. Could the ball have been pinched in place in the cup during assembly?

[jimwal]

I've got them out using a rare earth magnet and a panel pin.

 

The panel pin (or small nail) ideally should be close to the diameter of the bearing. File the head smooth and flat and shorten the shank to just longer than the bearing depth to the ball.

 

This should create the maximum pull on the ball.

[SR71]

Thanks @jimwal

 

After reading your post I remembered I had some magnet clamps. Bit of jiggling and then 'snap'.

 

[roythebus1]

You may find a bit of localised heat will free things, maybe run a hot soldering iron round the area for a couple of minutes. I do similar when I', dismantling old bus parts, but use a more industrial type blow lamp or oxy-acetylene!

[locomad2]

I had a similar problem about a year back and posted in motor & drive thread (sorry cant link) seemed due to over tight armture the shaft bored out sideways the hole where the little bearing sat.

 

Fixed it by just adding a new bearing on top of old one,,  and adjust the top nut on armture, loco runs fine now