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11 hours ago, Ruston said:

I went in to the shed, after tea, and forgot what it was I'd gone in for. Somehow I pulled a kit out of the stash whilst I was in there and have just come out with this.

Neilson12-1.jpg.4f68fbf6a76b1571229a1a9adfb74ea4.jpg

 

Interesting - what is it?

Edit - I've seen the name of the photo in the link and that it's a Neilson. Still want to know more though.

Edited by Barclay
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1 hour ago, Barclay said:

Interesting - what is it?

Edit - I've seen the name of the photo in the link and that it's a Neilson. Still want to know more though.

 

It's the High Level 12-inch Mineral Engine kit.

 

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Everything's now got 3-links!

 

The layout itself now has some proper lighting!

 

There are hangers to prevent the controllers falling on the floor.

 

There's still trouble a t'mill (though less trouble than there was and, fortunately, the Spanish Inqiusition have not arrived).

 

The locomotive kit stash has increased! (how  the heck did that happen?)

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I think, out of all the layouts that you have done, and I loved BT&S!!!!, this is the one that really hits my buttons!
I thought after High Peak Lime you had peaked, no pun intended!! but this is joyous!!!!!

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Back to the workbench. This is something that I have been messing about with for over a year but the project stalled.

 

A pugbash with a difference. The difference being that I'm not bashing it into something else but am trying to improve it. The one on the left is a bit of a wreck and was given to me in a non-working state and is shown only for comparison.

pugs-1.jpg.72b287db25539615157fda078238790b.jpg

It started as BR-numbered 51240 and I want to put it into L&YR livery. The trouble started when I attempted to scrape off the moulded smokebox number plate, which didn't go very well and so I cut off the moulded lubricators too. I ended up completely destroying the smokebox door and cutting a hole in the front and then I didn't know what to do and left it.

 

Since then I have made a new door and hinges from brass and have only recently got around to fitting it. The handles are from 247 Developments and the chimney has been cut off and replaced by a brass version, from Wizard Models. The handrails on the saddle tank have been removed as they look to be oversized and will be replaced by finer versions. I have opened out the cab windows as the moulded frames are too chunky, making the windows appear too small. I'll have to make new lubricators from bits of brass.

 

I have only run the thing once and it was awful. It couldn't pull the skin off of a rice pudding, was highly geared, and the deep flanges on the wheels didn't like my trackwork. It will be getting a High Level chassis, with Gibson wheels, and as much lead as I can cram into it.

 

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A few rolling stock projects have been finished.

 

One of the MR vans, below, is a brand new Slaters kit and the other was bought minus wheels, buffers and brake gear for just £3.00 at Keighley club open day. I had all the missing parts left over from building the stone open wagons that had been built with dumb buffers and brakes on one side only, so no extra expense was needed to finish it. It was even painted and lettered.

CVMRJune2019-031.jpg.977a1aeafdd0ad59a49578084ed08855.jpg

 

The new brake van was given to me, built but minus buffers, brake gear, footboards and wheels. The wheels are from a wagon that I bought for £2 but only wanted for the 14mm dia. wheels. It's supposed to be ex-Midland and rebuilt in the CVMR workshops. I have lettered it NOT TO BE USED ON HIGH LEVEL LINES to not only add some visual interest but because whoever built it crammed it full of lead and thus it is too heavy to hang on the back of a train going up the bank.

CVMRJune2019-034.jpg.08f2e5f69ce5e8c83634e74ebbe3dcc9.jpg

 

Finally, the left had fidde yard. Now with removable coal loads and wagon cards. The cards are to be shuffled and 6 picked out for making up a pick up goods train. Each card gives the identity of the wagon and its destination. These are Hipperholme (the public goods sidings at the end of the line), Colliery Branch (high level, LH fiddle yard), Quarry Branch (high level, RH fiddle yard), Knowles Siding (the pipe works).

CVMRJune2019-033.jpg.8cc7cc598cf0c15765dd06a549a6eb92.jpg

These cards will be used along with a timetable, which, along with the pick up goods, will include the public passenger service, workmans' trains, block stone trains, block coal trains (to Elland, L&YR), block coal trains (chaldrons to wharf on the Navigation, further up the line, and light engine movements.

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Back to the pug. Lots done, today.

pugs-2.jpg.26e2b0f4a98f5a63f60720e8899a70d0.jpg

I put all that's in the photo together. The gearbox is a fiddly thing and can only be put together properly once the frames are attached to the bodyshell. The part in the foreground, that carries the motor, is then fitted by the shaft of the first gear holding it to the rest of the 'box. The firebox covers this and is held in by pins and the cab clipped back on. That's how it's supposed to work anyway so I'll see how well that actually works.

 

I am using the cheap Chinese 10/15 motor in place of the specified Mashima 10/20 in order to save space for weight and for cost. £1.49 vs £23 is a no-brainer. I have also found these motors to run better than Mashimas anyway. Of course the screw holes in the gearbox don't line up with the holes in the motor but I just solder the motors on. Only this time I have turned a brass collar that has been loctited over the boss around the bearing. The outside diameter of the collar just fits through the worm hole in the gearbox, so ought to give the correct distance to mesh the worm and gear without any faffing around.

Edited by Ruston
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On 16/06/2019 at 18:04, Ruston said:

Probably not. It would be a lot of hassle.

 

Thats a shame, it would be a very popular exhibition layout.  I would travel to see it!

Thanks for all the photos and inspiration,

Dave.

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On 16/06/2019 at 16:23, Ruston said:

 

Horus on a short goods train.

CVMRJune2019-017.jpg.a512f45af28ed1be0ff8f66ca89bf092.jpg

 

 

Super set of photos Dave. 

Please can I make one suggestion?  Put a piece of mirror behind the canal bridge arch, it would make a huge visual difference to the scene.

All the best, Dave.

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2 hours ago, DLT said:

 

Super set of photos Dave. 

Please can I make one suggestion?  Put a piece of mirror behind the canal bridge arch, it would make a huge visual difference to the scene.

All the best, Dave.

This has been mentioned before. I don't know how I could cut a mirror to fit. It would have to go right down to the water level but would also have to be wider than the canal for the rest of it and so would need to be shaped to fit. If I could get some kind of flexible, self-adhesive mirror then I would do it.

 

More pugbuilding.

pugbuild-004.jpg.56ea46ee5e62dad5584a9b331bc7a08e.jpg

The shaft is holding the twp parts of gearbox together and it has been roller-tested with the rods on. It runs nicely, so it's now on to making the driving rods and fitting the cylinders.

 

I have weighed all of the component parts, including the original weight that fits inside the tank/boiler, and it only comes up to 80g. I can possibly get another 20g in it but most of the weight is going to be over the leading axle, which is the compensated axle. This type of rocking axle compensation doesn't work when there's too much weight over it, as I found when I built the Dowlais D class tank. However the compensation works, or not, 100g isn't going to be heavy enough; the RTR Hornby Pecketts weigh 125g and they can just about manage 5 wagons on the bank, so 100g is a lot less than I would like.

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2 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

That's a motor I haven't tried - do you have a link for it? What's the shaft diameter?

The shaft is 1mm dia. I got a length of brass tube, from Hobby Holidays, to sleeve them. I've used these motors in 5 locomotives now and I've found them to run more freely than the equivalent Mashimas. Minebea N20.

Edited by Ruston
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6 hours ago, Ruston said:

The shaft is 1mm dia. I got a length of brass tube, from Hobby Holidays, to sleeve them. I've used these motors in 5 locomotives now and I've found them to run more freely than the equivalent Mashimas. Minebea N20.

Thanks Dave, I think that's the one I've ordered - might be there when we get back this week.

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