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Minerva - O Gauge Class 14 announced


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In the R-T-R sound fitted models there is a ZIMO MX645P22 sound decoder installed. 

 

Unfortunately, in some early release models, the decoder has an incorrect CV setting meaning that on DC only, the brake is set 'ON' so the motor will not turn. This has since been fixed.

 

Individual cases will be addressed by Minerva as they present.

 

There's no such problem on DCC, all works as it should. So if you run exclusively on DCC, you will not be affected by this.

 

To run an affected model on DC, if one is able, there are a couple of simple DIY fixes which will get the model moving, but they do require access to DCC in order to make a CV change, or changes:

 

Options:

 

1. To remove the brake effect on DC but retain a small degree of inertia/momentum, make CV 13 = 17  (seventeen)

 

2. To remove the brake effect on DC and remove all inertia/momentum, make CV13 = 1 (one)  and CV14 = 192

 

3. Anyone unable to make these changes should contact Minerva who will put it right.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

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  • 6 months later...

Hi, 

 

I'm thinking of getting a Minerva 14, can anybody tell me if this loco runs well? Apart from the colour, is there anything 'wrong' with this model that may need an eye kept on it?

 

For some reason, I can't see most of the pictures on this topic, so can't decide for myself about the cab colour.

 

Thanks.

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Mine waddles a bit, more noticable at higher speed, obviously. Others have found similar. A common issue seems to be a 'clicking' noise which turns out to be one of the connecting rod pins where the back of the pin hits the jackshaft counterweight as it revolves. Also worth checking the crankpins are tightly screwed into the wheels or said counterweight, as a few, myself included, have found one or more working loose. I was only glad to catch mine before it unwound itself completely out of it's hole.

 

The other thing that is very wrong is one of the cab doors is molded with the handles on the wrong side. It's a bit of work to correct, I bet someone drew a cab door on CAD, & didn't reverse it from one side to the other.

For the cab colour use Railmatch Sherwood Green. I don't think much of the Railtech decals that come with the model & got some from Precision Labels instead.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Mine arrived yesterday, and it looks fine, running on BBC DC smoothly. However ignore the Minerva website, this has a Plux 22 socket, not 21pin! I made this mistake, but have managed to locate one.

 

Looking forward to a birthday run this weekend with banger blue Cl 47.

 

Will drop Chris a line….

 

Neal

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  • 5 months later...
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Due to change of server, most photos on this topic long gone.  Can anybody offer advice on how to remove body from chassis?  Spoken to Chris at Minerva and read instructions, they say, remove 4 x screws at end of body and body drops out............Chris tells me you have to stand it on its buffers and wiggle it out, so far, nothing has worked, trying to fit Modelu crew and cannot get at the cab without removing body.  The body appears Jammed at one end and will not budge.  Chassis drops out on short end but reluctant to release from long end.  Chris says that the body must come out equally, both ends together........tried everything, something is stopping the chassis dropping out, can feel it jamming on something - loco does have sound and speakers, wondering if its jamming on these.  Any help I would be most grateful

 

Raymond 

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IIRC mine needed a bit of a wiggle to come out but it wasn't 'stuck', sounds like your's might be, as you say possibly on the DCC gubbins.

Once it's out, to remove the cab there are another 4 screws underneath. These screw into four black plastic blocks, which have to be removed to get the cab interior out, the screws for these blocks are on each cab corner....

20220215_220350.jpg.2531bcfc6b769d041e0de9fce8cf8a69.jpg

 

20220215_220339.jpg.dde0ee300e627a2fff115758aea4dff5.jpg

 

Be aware the cab floor comes out first, & has the seats fixed to it - all well & good until you want your driver to have his hand on the controls, as glued to the seat on the floor, he would have to be completely clear of the desk to slide the floor back in place. To do this I removed one of the seats from the floor, and cobbled up a 'seat' glued to the underside of the desk, then glued the driver (Omen Models, Bus Driver I think, in my case) to that. The second man I glued standing in the doorway, as if ready to get out.

20220213_142109.jpg.a4c2a6f4fb651238b68fc20dc20fe936.jpg

 

I assume you know the one cab door is wrong-handed. While the cab's off it's well worth correcting this minor but irritating error. I won't (re)start the debate over the cab colour here.... 🙄🤦‍♂️

20220211_214435.jpg.70efd91fcf58126606e7426f22a1264d.jpg

 

Finally, check ALL the crank pins on the chassis, one of mine was loose out of the box & others have found the same. I tightened it up, but found recently that EVERY SINGLE ONE was loose - and that is without much running time - a few minutes at a time, over only a few days spread over several months!! Most worrying.

Mine also waddles along somewhat, even at slow speeds, in contrast to my Minerva & Dapol Panniers & both Dapol 08s I have. Overall I have to say this model has been rather a disappointment & well below par for Minerva. If a D95xx wasn't on my "must have" list I would have returned it, to be brutally honest.

Anyway hope the info helps.

Edited by F-UnitMad
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On 16/06/2023 at 14:40, kasyjones said:

Due to change of server, most photos on this topic long gone.  Can anybody offer advice on how to remove body from chassis?  Spoken to Chris at Minerva and read instructions, they say, remove 4 x screws at end of body and body drops out............Chris tells me you have to stand it on its buffers and wiggle it out, so far, nothing has worked, trying to fit Modelu crew and cannot get at the cab without removing body.  The body appears Jammed at one end and will not budge.  Chassis drops out on short end but reluctant to release from long end.  Chris says that the body must come out equally, both ends together........tried everything, something is stopping the chassis dropping out, can feel it jamming on something - loco does have sound and speakers, wondering if its jamming on these.  Any help I would be most grateful

 

Raymond 

I too have the same issue. I contacted Chris, to be told the same as you.

On reading your post I have just spent another 20 mins trying to remove the body  to no avail. The long end seems to lodge on the mounts for the two screws.

 

Paul

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To members who have a Class 14 and wish to get at the cab to put figures in BUT body will not release from Chassis.

It should be straight forward, remove 4 outer screws as per instructions in model and wiggle it free.............BUT as in my case, this is/was not the case?  I jest you  not, I struggled for 6-7 hours to jiggle free the chassis and it was NOT having it.  So, decided to remove LONG bonnet to find out the reason it would not drop.  Photos enclosed.  On removing the bonnet, a gearbox lay shaft had drifted out of the chassis onto the body, effectively locking the body and making it impossible to remove body, pushed the shaft back into chassis and chassis dropped from body.

 

This was my 2nd Class 14 as the first was defective due to parts coming loose on loco due to lack of glue.........advised Chris at Minerva of problem told me to return it for a replacement(they refunded postage of £15 for return)......no replacements available but brand new body fitted.  Then had the fault where impossible to remove body, Chris said wiggle it.  as reported above I found my own solution......sent Chris the photos and what the problem was, He mentioned in passing due to my drastic action, warranty now void!!!  But, he did help out by sending replacement parts for the ones that I had broken in effecting the repair on my class 14 free of charge.

 

Warranty was void anyway as painted cab correct colour.....Railmatch Sherwood Green with correct transfers from Railtec and crew from Modelu

 

 

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O Gauge Class 14.jpg

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Success! Many thanks Raymond after spending an hour undoing screws and debating on removing the long bonnet  I finally managed it without damaging any thing apart from a couple of handrails.

 

As you said the centre pin was fouling the body. A gentle push with a screw driver and the pin came all the way out. 

Once fitted with a decoder I will reassemble.

Major progress made. Many thanks.

 

Paul

20230622_193535_copy_1500x2000.jpg

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A slightly strange question but I'll ask it anyway whilst this thread is 'hot.'

 

Could somebody with one of these locos measure for me the distance between the outer edges of the outer wheels and the opposite ends buffers please as I wish to know if one would fit into a loco runround headshunt for a layout that I am contemplating but have very little space in which to work. It would be nice to see if I can fit in one of these locos beforehand.

 

Much obliged,

Ian.

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