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57XX Pannier Tank models


alexl102
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Never noticed the missing weight, must replace it to get a bit more adhesion.

All I do is:

Plug a decoder into the socket.

Stick a bit of double sided foam to the plug.

Stick the decoder on top.

Massage the wiring loom so it sits forwards.

Done

I'm using Lenz Standard + decoders.

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My plan to improve the Bachmann 8750   Remove the body. Remove the ballast weights. Make new ballast weights from lead flashing.    Fill any voids with lead weights.  Refit Body.  Most of my wagons are well ballasted so I can shunt 22 wagon rakes over 2ft radius reverse curves but the 8750 still has 33% less tractive effort than the older model.

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Just had a look at my various pannier body weights (all sit on modern Bachmann chassis with Lenz decoders)

5764 Mainline (split chassis): internal ballast weights same as Bachmann 8750 No. 4612 - body weighs 84 grams, total loco weight 191 grams

8700 Bachmann (split chassis): full ballast weights, body weight 100grams.

 

The Mainline 5764 has not been changed as I have had it from new.

Edited by melmerby
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8 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

My plan to improve the Bachmann 8750   Remove the body. Remove the ballast weights. Make new ballast weights from lead flashing.    Fill any voids with lead weights.  Refit Body.  Most of my wagons are well ballasted so I can shunt 22 wagon rakes over 2ft radius reverse curves but the 8750 still has 33% less tractive effort than the older model.

It will do no harm to replace the dome and chimney with whitemetal castings as well, and put a whitemetal crew in the cab.   

 

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There usually are quite a few Keyser 57xx ready built models about both in early and late cab versions. I understand many do not like building kits, but the majority that are sold are built and not in kit form.

 

Just look for good quality models (there are some badly made examples about), many of which have had the wheels changed to Romfords and new motors fitted. And as they are so common rarely fetch exorbitant prices. You may even be lucky to fine one with an etched chassis

 

Having said this I bought a Mainline pannier for a song (from memory not more than £30), it has an etched brass chassis and the motor has a flywheel, it will out perform any Mainline or Bachmann RTR loco all day long, thankfully for me the RTR brigade were not interested, in today's prices the parts for the chassis will now set you back £80+.  I have even bought a Wills pannier with a Portescap RG4 motor

 

I am not saying start kit building, but there are so many well built models out there going for a song, if buying on sites like eBay and the seller states well built of good runner and its not, you can return the item for a full refund. Just be as careful as you would when buying an expensive RTR model for a cheap kit built item. Unlike modern chassis these are easy to both service and repair

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OP here. Thanks everyone, didn't expect this thread to attract such interest!

 

To answer an earlier question, the Bachmann 57XX looks like an excellent model and it's not that it isn't good enough for me - just that when looking for a 57XX, the Bachmann model was the only one I knew of; just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything that was worth a look!

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I have a K's later cab and Bachmann early cab.  Both converted to P4 without any extra clearance having to be made in the splashers.  The K's has a Percy compensated chassis, the Bachmann used drop in wheels from Ultrascale, expensive but good, and just relies on the sprung centre axle for roaholding.

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Two of my early Bachmann wore out. I have gone back to K's for my panniers. They do not have the topfeed, run well and will pull lengthy trains. Two of my early Bachmann wore out.

 

The only Bachmann 57XX I have is the chassis which I put under a Hornby 2721 to improve the running and allow daylight under the boiler/tanks.

 

Mike Wiltshire

 

1572498367_Kspairls.jpg.9833fc8a85a2c5b0f13b209405b76e78.jpg

656211656_2721xlr.jpg.8f1395c17e6c554d2ef05403bb629078.jpg

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4 hours ago, Coach bogie said:

The only Bachmann 57XX I have is the chassis which I put under a Hornby 2721 to improve the running and allow daylight under the boiler/tanks.

 

Mike Wiltshire

 

 

656211656_2721xlr.jpg.8f1395c17e6c554d2ef05403bb629078.jpg

I'm surprised your 27XX had poor running as the original Jinty derived chassis is not a bad one (pity it is the wrong wheelbase:()

Mine runs fine but the undersize centre wheelset is a bit off-putting.

 

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9 hours ago, melmerby said:

I'm surprised your 27XX had poor running as the original Jinty derived chassis is not a bad one (pity it is the wrong wheelbase:()

Mine runs fine but the undersize centre wheelset is a bit off-putting.

 

The two I bought both had the scalextric motor and sprung rear axle. The lack of daylight under the boiler/tank is the key factor which can be opened out by fitting the Bachmann 57xx chassis. My third 2721 will hvae a Comet chassis.

 

Mike Wiltshire

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3 hours ago, Coach bogie said:

The two I bought both had the scalextric motor and sprung rear axle. The lack of daylight under the boiler/tank is the key factor which can be opened out by fitting the Bachmann 57xx chassis. My third 2721 will hvae a Comet chassis.

 

Mike Wiltshire

In does seem to have been degraded over the years.

Mine has an X04 motor driving the front axle but the wheels are a bit of a let down.

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12 minutes ago, melmerby said:

In does seem to have been degraded over the years.

Mine has an X04 motor driving the front axle but the wheels are a bit of a let down.

 Melmerby

 

You are probably aware that Southeastern Finecast do a Triang/Hornby Jinty direct replacement etched chassis complete with brake gear. I don't think its designed for any specific loco other than it has the Triang/ Hornby Jinty body fixings, they do a version to fit their tender engines and a third chassis to replace the Hornby Dublo R1 chassis. Whether or not its worth replacing the chassis is another thing

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Mine has the more up to date generic Hornby Jinty chassis, with brake gear and driving the front axle and runs nicely, but only after a good bit of faffing.  The rear axle is sprung by two springs sitting in rebated holes in the chassis block and bearing directly down on the axle; there is no saddle bearing or plate.  The Hornby owner's manual sheet suggests that the strength of the springs can be adjusted by stretching or trimming them, and the whole setup seems a bit crude.  On mine, slow running was very much improved by smoothing down the ends of the springs with emery paper.  

 

I have not bothered with replacing the chassis with a Bachmann mainly because a parallel fluted coupling rod is correct for my prototype, 2761.  I live with the boiler skirts and incorrect wheel spacing which at least matches the incorrect splasher spacing, but have worked the loco up with the chimney, dome, and safety valve cover off a previous Westward 64xx.  If you don't do anything else to your 2721, replace the boiler top furniture, especially that odd reverse tapered chimney and the upturned flowerpot safety valve cover.  The cab roof is wrong as well, and is on my 'round tuit' list pending the acquisition of the necessary round tuit.

 

It's actually not the worst thing Triang ever made, and while it'll never be a finescale model of anything is an acceptable 'layout loco'.  Cab glazing, crew, real coal, scribed card plank cab flooring, and new buffers are worth the effort as well.  I've been given a Wills 1854 by Philou of this parish which I will be building a Southeastern chassis for, again following the acquisition of the round tuit.  One of these half cabs will be modelled with the canvas weather sheet in position.

19 minutes ago, Wickham Green said:

You're still stuck with the Triang 8' + 8'6'' ( approx ) wheelbase !

Which is not even correct for a Jinty.  I considered a Bachmann Jinty\1F chassis but you have the splasher lining up problem.  It's not my only splasher issue; I have a Lima 94xx with a Bachmann pannier chassis where the splashers are out of alignment as well.  For now...

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