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MrWolf
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14 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Yes, I will need to have FPLs on the main line, I should have either drawn them in or made a note that I had left them off for clarity.

I'm not 100% certain that the general arrangement is correct though.

 

If they are economical FPL (i.e use the same lever) would they need a separate rod all the way?

 

Don

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48 minutes ago, Donw said:

 

If they are economical FPL (i.e use the same lever) would they need a separate rod all the way?

 

Don

 

Er. Pass?

 

Anybody?

 

It certainly sounds logical for a lightly used line that is still carrying passengers.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Donw said:

 

If they are economical FPL (i.e use the same lever) would they need a separate rod all the way?

 

Don

 

30 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

 

Er. Pass?

 

Anybody?

 

It certainly sounds logical for a lightly used line that is still carrying passengers.

 

 

 

Not normally on the GWR AFAIK.

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1 hour ago, St Enodoc said:

 

 

Not normally on the GWR AFAIK.

 

So I'm better off with two rods running the length of the platform to operate the left hand crossover. Assuming of course that both points are locked by one rod and operated by the other in tandem?

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1 hour ago, MrWolf said:

 

So I'm better off with two rods running the length of the platform to operate the left hand crossover. Assuming of course that both points are locked by one rod and operated by the other in tandem?

Yes but not quite for that reason. As @Nick C showed, one rod will operate both ends of the crossover and you only need one FPL.

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@Nick C and @St Enodoc helped me a lot with mine

 

I’ve got one rod operating the crossover and The FPL is at the other end of the layout because it’s only required when a train is approaching from a facing direction (I think)

 

This is how I did mine thanks to @Nick C and @St Enodoc‘s advice


2254ACE8-DB52-4FA4-B7E3-067172D743F7.jpeg.9694f64aa83e43e531b8d120f2dba5df.jpeg

 

I did the ‘in line’ crank like this, I think this is how @KNP did it on Little Muddle
 

203C84F4-86B8-4A77-8AE9-89DA10630ADB.jpeg.40815c42cec1ce6b202926ae15d6b274.jpeg


F2F7BBD8-0D36-45DB-8296-224EB3AE2E13.jpeg.9b0a8a4deeedcf15ec26468d78f27a8a.jpeg


I did the FPL with separate rods

 

51708EC4-13F8-4339-A9A3-BCB53FAC625D.jpeg.ef3128af7af6d98b0533511517b0ab5e.jpeg


hope that helps Rob

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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31 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Thanks, that makes sense. How did you get the ballast so level?


unlike me to make sense :scratchhead:

 

Not sure if I did it the right way, I just patted  it down with my finger until it looked about right before applying any adhesive

 

28 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

Pick the layout up and shake it...

 

That would work too :lol:

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1 hour ago, Alister_G said:

 

Pick the layout up and shake it...

 

 

 

No?

 

 

Al.

 

No.

 

Probably not.

 

Although there's been moments where I could have picked the layout up and launched it into the back yard.

 

Relaxing hobby my......

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With @Tortugas generous contribution, I am now halfway towards the four metres of point rodding required. Thanks again for the offer.

That's a pretty unbelievable amount of point rodding, which would be very visible by it's absence.

 

Better order some more!

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1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

For ballast levelling, @BlackRat invented the Ballast Bunny...

 

 

Knowing Neil as I do, I hold certain concerns regarding that concept........

 

 

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42 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Knowing Neil as I do, I hold certain concerns regarding that concept........

 

 

 

And you'd be right to.

 

Conceptually,  it was a great idea and the prototype did seem to work remarkably well.

I am surprised it never made it to full production, but possibly a certain A Summers Emporium might have been shaken by the potential rival product.

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Regarding FPLs. I wondered whether Stationmaster was following this in which case we would have the definitive answer. However I thought I would check with Laurie's book on point rodding. He advises they were less common and there were many designs all of which used the same rod to operate the FPL as operated the turnout. He also points out that while economic in terms of a Lever and rodding they did require more maintenance.

The book available from the 2mm Scale association is wel worth it in my view.

 

Don

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There is a chapter on FPLs. From the modellers point of view it saves having to have extra levers and even more so having to remember to operate them. I am planning to have the points and signals interlocked. I will be using electrickery as what with arthritis and a mountain of kits to build doing a mechanical locking frame is never going to happen whereas the coding for the arduino to control the interlocking is 90% done  I need to build a test rig to prove it and finalise on the system to link up to the devices.

 

Don

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