Butler Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Hi Is it me, but every time i pick up one of my locos, something seems to fall off! Bits of pipe or detail, I’m trying to be carefull, honest. What is the best glue to fix them back on? I’ve used superglue which is ok, but I’m told there are better glues , like Plastic magic? anybody got any suggestions ? B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikcdab Posted March 6, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2021 Gorilla glue super glue. Every time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 My go to CA is Zap A Gap Medium. Used it for years and it sets rock hard. It stay's viable over time too, although cure time seems to increase. I had a tube of Gorilla Glue and didn't open it for quite a long time. When I went to use it it had gone hard in the tube. Won't be getting that again. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 Thanks, is it quite instant, one other prob, I’ve developed an allergy to superglue vapour, I can wear a mask but have to be careful, it’s bizarre, been using it for years, until recently. Breathing problems, etc. is Gorilla a normal csyo glue ? B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Glues seems to be an every changing - I did favour for a while Evo-Stick Serious Glue for many jobs, a slow setting fix and repair glue but over time I found a number of joints failing. Current favouites are Loctite 60 second, a relatively slow setting cyano and Bostick Power Repair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyRule1 Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 I agree with @brossard the only time I bought Gorrila glue, in my case liquid, it set in the bottle before I used it. £6 wasted there. Now Picture is my CA of choice. Old style UHU and Bostick still have their uses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 If a superglue rather than a plastic glue then normally what they have on offer in the bargain retailers such as B&M, Wilko or Home & Bargain. I did notice that your address is France. They're usually the brand names such as Loctite. I wouldn't buy an unknown named version though. If you have problems with the fumes, have you tried solvent free? Link is just an example. Odourless and non-irritating to skin. Solvent-free. https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/loctite-power-easy-super-glue-gel-3g/p/0295291 Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coastalview Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Loctite all plastics super glue is great. It is one of the only glues I've found that reliably sticks soft plastics. It's a two part glue with a thing like a felt pen you spread on first and then the glue. Although the tubes are quite small you need very little. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Loctite-Super-Glue-All-Plastics-2g-%2B-4ml /p/136276 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravensdmufan Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) Having tried lots of different glues on lots of different plastics over the years, I still use my old favourite the original Evo Stik impact which I still find most reliable. OK it's not an instant glue, and of course it's still annoyingly "stringy" but it works every time for me, and seems to last. Best left to harden overnight. Edited March 6, 2021 by cravensdmufan Additional wording Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted March 7, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2021 I use quite a lot of superglue for this sort of thing, and favour Loctite, but also buy the packs of half a dozen for a pount in Poundland. This is surprising useful as a temporary glue that can be fairly easily broken out should the joint have to come apart for any reason. I found Gorilla made my eyes burn and my throat catch, and this in a well ventilated room; won't be buying that anymore, but I'm a big fan of the ordinary Gorilla as a general purpose glue. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 I normally use Solvite on my Black Fives though.... https://www.adforum.com/creative-work/ad/player/7432/train/solvite That will make some of you feel old. Jason 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Am I the only person that can't get on with actual ''modelling glue"? I always get in a right mess with it, it takes an age to go off, and the smell - though quite pleasant at first really starts to cloy! I have come up with a method of fixing (building) models with Blue-tak, using a "grid" cutting board as a guide - applying the devil glue, and then walking away! Once dried (about 11 months later!) I remove the Blue-tak... In fact I find myself increasingly using bog standard pound shop superglue these days, Wilko do a superglue pen which is nice and accurate-ish. Otherwise, for sticking objects down I use UHU (also pound shop) - this has the added advantage of being easy to remove if you make alterations. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 If it's taking too long to set then you are probably using too much. I take it you mean liquid poly BTW? The stuff in a bottle which you apply with a brush. Don't use the tube stuff. Fine for kids building their first Spitfire. Not much use for making proper models. Too stringy when using it and brittle when set. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) 55 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said: If it's taking too long to set then you are probably using too much. I take it you mean liquid poly BTW? The stuff in a bottle which you apply with a brush. Don't use the tube stuff. Fine for kids building their first Spitfire. Not much use for making proper models. Too stringy when using it and brittle when set. Jason I've got two bottles of the Humbrol brand - no brush (that'd be nice) it has a very long metal nozzle, NOT clog proof. Not to make excuses but I think the nozzle gimic is the main problem, it is very long in relation to the bottle - and I work in N Scale, so any movement of the thumb and forefinger (IE the bottle) is translated and magnified at the nozzle end, sacrificing accuracy. Obviously, the nozzle is handy for hard to get at spots, but the same can be achieved using a cocktail stick! Edited March 7, 2021 by Ray Von Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 7, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) I have several adhesives, and each have their uses and restrictions. My superglue is my local modelling shop own brand bottled CA. Model Junction in Bury St Edmunds. I have the three types, Thin, Medium and Thick. Thin is great for flashing into joints, coal loads, tiny parts which need fast setting. The others are better for slower setting or gap filling. The only problem i have encountered with superglue is if the area is contaminated with flux. The glue will never set. Wilko's version of Evo-stick for my aluminium coach kits or wood parts is excellent. Araldite 90 sec epoxy for white metal parts if i cant solder them or other parts such as pick up board etc where flux might be present. EMA solvent for platic where i can flood the joint using a brush. Revell plastic modelling adhesive (blue bottle type with thin metal applicator) if i need to bring the two parts together. Clean parts is critical. Ian Edited March 9, 2021 by ianLMS 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 When I received a brand new loco from Rails recently, it came with a couple of broken off bits, buffers etc. they suggested Plastic Magic! There are 2 types, 10sec and normal. Anybody used them especially for this kind of repair! Ive found superglue to work, but I have to wear a mask, makes it tricky! B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 7, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2021 I've not used Plastic Magic but if its a thin liquid solvent like EMA Plastic Weld, it melts the plastic to form a bond so only apply a tiny amount and be careful applying too much pressure or it will just melt into the wrong position. I use the Revell glue for the small parts as its not so aggressive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 Ok, I think it is a thin liquid glue, and if so, I’ll leave it. I’ve found that to re-Glue plastic, plastic model cement is def not the answer. It needs to be a little thicker I think. I’ll look into some of the suggestions above. i normally use Thick superglue. Some say, including some loco manufacturers to put on the accessories with PVA ! I really can’t see that working B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 8 hours ago, Ray Von said: I've got two bottles of the Humbrol brand - no brush (that'd be nice) it has a very long metal nozzle, NOT clog proof. Not to make excuses but I think the nozzle gimic is the main problem, it is very long in relation to the bottle - and I work in N Scale, so any movement of the thumb and forefinger (IE the bottle) is translated and magnified at the nozzle end, sacrificing accuracy. Obviously, the nozzle is handy for hard to get at spots, but the same can be achieved using a cocktail stick! Oh I tried one of those, Revell rather than Humbrol, and just couldn't get on with it. I reckon it's best to stick to the bottles (whatever your preferred brand is). My last purchase was this which did have a brush. But you could use your own brush if you wanted a finer one. https://www.hattons.co.uk/37357/humbrol_ae2500_28ml_liquid_poly_bottle_/stockdetail.aspx 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Hi all, My personal favourite is Hafix industrial super glue. It sticks everything. Including the plastics you get with things like the GBL locomotive models. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Anyone remember the old capsules you used to get in kits? There's one here. Terrible stuff and you had to use it all in one go as it went off and there was never enough in them anyway. https://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?t=25509 Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Huw Griffiths Posted March 9, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2021 On 07/03/2021 at 13:33, Butler said: When I received a brand new loco from Rails recently, it came with a couple of broken off bits, buffers etc. they suggested Plastic Magic! There are 2 types, 10sec and normal. Anybody used them especially for this kind of repair! Ive found superglue to work, but I have to wear a mask, makes it tricky! B On 07/03/2021 at 16:01, Butler said: Ok, I think it is a thin liquid glue, and if so, I’ll leave it. I’ve found that to re-Glue plastic, plastic model cement is def not the answer. It needs to be a little thicker I think. I’ll look into some of the suggestions above. i normally use Thick superglue. Some say, including some loco manufacturers to put on the accessories with PVA ! I really can’t see that working B I've used a lot of glues over the years - in a previous job - and in hobbies. Exactly which type to use depends on exactly what you're trying to bond. Also, is there any effective way of holding the pieces together - perhaps using clamps (modified wooden clothes pegs?), or tape? From what's been said, it sounds like you might be trying to stick together some broken bits of polystyrene. If the pieces can be clamped or taped together, is there any way of using a brush to apply a couple of drops of thin solvent (Tamiya quick setting extra thin; EMA Plastic Weld / cellulose thinner) - preferably from somewhere it won't be seen afterwards? Either that, or perhaps a visible surface might be able to be "cleaned up" - but it's far preferable if solvent can be applied at some point where it will be invisible afterwards. Huw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ERIC ALLTORQUE Posted February 26, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2023 Loctite 435 super glue,keep it in fridge and its expensive but it bonds everything as far as models is concerned. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 8 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said: Loctite 435 super glue,keep it in fridge and its expensive but it bonds everything as far as models is concerned. Holy thread revival Batman! 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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