Millway Dock featuring Leaford NSE layout now sold.

[D9JEF]

Kevin,

 

Fabulous pictures as usual. Really looking forward to reading the weathering guide.

 

Jeff

[pitbull1845]

Good to see the PCV making an appearance Kevin, and the 33 on parcels. Has to be one of my favourite workings the mail/parcel services. I remember spending nights at Bristol Temple Meads watching the mail trains, it was all rather interesting.

 

By the way my Warflat is coming on nicely, just sorting out a fleet of Land Rovers now! A quick question if you don't mind, What colour are your warflats painted on the top? I can't seem to find any photos looking down on the real ones..

Cheers

Scott

[Ragtag]

Loving the PCV, is that an Express lighting kit?

 

Scott - the warflats had a wooden-decked top, didn't they?

[pitbull1845]

I thought that was probably the case Ragtag, I wasn't sure if it was painted or left O Naturel... Having looked back through Kevins pictures it would appear that he has them as wooden (natural) so I shall do that, thanks for your help..

Scott

[Ragtag]

I've seen warflats crop up a couple of times in Model Rail and the decking always seems to have a natural, or at least treated wood, finish to it - rather than painted (which would probably make life easier )

 

 

[P.C.M]

Hi Kevin,

I like the lastest pics, the pusher on the vans is great.

 

Hi scott, Have a look at Brian Daniels workbench thread, he has been doing a 7mm warflat and has plenty of pictures of the real thing.

 

Cheers Peter,

[pitbull1845]

Thanks Peter, I have just taken a quick peep, very useful pictures. Time for bed now though, got to be up for work at 6.. I will continue my research tomorrow evening.

Scott

[Hampshire Hog]

Hi guys, Ragtag wrote " I've seen warflats crop up a couple of times in Model Rail and the decking always seems to have a natural, or at least treated wood, finish to it - rather than painted (which would probably make life easier )"

 

I am sorry I missed you all last night, but I am afraid my bed was calling, and talking of beds in answer to the question on Warflats I did mine in Railmatch Sleeper Grime (it just seemed to be roughly the right colour, and it was handy).

 

Ragtag also wrote "Loving the PCV, is that an Express lighting kit?".

 

The PCV is fitted with an Express Models Class 121 with Headlight Kit(or half of one), many thanks to you all for the comments.

 

 

Anyway a close up of one of Bachmanns finest Class 37/4s 37410 "Aluminium 100"

 

Again sorry for missing you all last night, and my regards

Kevin.

[PaulRhB]

Anyway a close up of one of Bachmanns finest Class 37/4s 37410 "Aluminium 100"

 

Heh heh he's having a Scottish moment after playing with my Large Logo 37 and yes the chips are finally off to be reblown Kevin. Thought I better get on with it before the weathering masterclass appears and I add another job to the list.

[Hampshire Hog]

Heh heh he's having a Scottish moment after playing with my Large Logo 37 and yes the chips are finally off to be reblown Kevin. Thought I better get on with it before the weathering masterclass appears and I add another job to the list.

 

Hi Paul, its good to hear from you again, yes your the one responsible for my Scottish moment, if you hadn't brought your 37!!!(they are just so nice though),When your chips are done perhaps another running session?

 

A weathering masterclass sounds a bit grand you best wait to you see it first.

 

You know 31s are not bad either.

 

See you soon and regards

Kevin.

[PaulRhB]

When your chips are done perhaps another running session?

 

Yes please

 

A weathering masterclass sounds a bit grand you best wait to you see it first.

I've seen the results in fact one of them is still sat on my workbench making the 37 feel better while it's having the electrical upgrade.

 

Hoping the bullets will be here soon so I can bring them for a run.

[Hampshire Hog]

Hi guys, As you know I have been threatening to put together a step by step guide to one weathering technique that I (and many others) use, I hope that you are not going to be disappointed.

 

Whenever you use glues, adhesives, or paints it is always recommended to read what it says on the tin and follow the manufacturers instructions, I would suggest a well ventilated area, No Smoking, and as the paint can soak through a soft cloth, gloves should be worn to protect the skin (Marigold type or similar), also I would not suggest trying out this technique on your favorite loco to start with, I would suggest an old wagon first, as I said earlier this method is not for the faint hearted.

 

I am afraid I am going to ignore my own advice and weather brand new Bachmann Class 47 47614 Titan after checking that it works ok and chipping it first.

 

To start with you will need some matt black paint or similar, I always use Railmatch Weathered Black and some sort of mixing pallet (as can be seen in the picture an off cut of 2" X 1" PAR does for me) then thin the paint down approx 50/50 with thinners (I use turpentine substitute) be careful - do not to splash it when mixing, Wear eye protection if necessary.

 

Now for the part that is not for those with a nervous disposition, paint the mixture on to just one side of your model first - approx 1/4 of the length to start with, including under the handrails (try not to get the paint onto the windows - (if you do clean it off with a cotton bud for the fiddly bits or a soft cloth).

 

And now slowly draw a soft cloth gently down the side of the loco from top to bottom as if you are wiping the paint off (try to keep a straight line and at right angles to the length), you will now see a build of paint starting to form under the hand rails, under raised detail, cantrails and in the sunken detail and streaking down the side, repeat this until the weathering is to your liking.

 

Now paint the next 1/4 section and so on until the entire length of your model is completed, let paint completely dry on that side before moving on to the fronts, roof, and other side.

 

When doing the fronts of a loco again paint all over - but keep paint away from the lights and windscreens, - but make sure that you do get paint behind handrails, pipework, cabling, etc because that is where dirt collects and is the effect that we are after.

 

And consider using cotton buds as well as a soft cloth to assist in removing the paint.

Again let completely dry before starting another area.

 

Do the roofs as described previously above by painting a 1/4 at a time, starting with the soft cloth in the center of the roof slowly moving towards the outside - be aware of the paint overflow of off the cloth and the effect it may have on the finished sides.

Again let completely dry before starting another area.

 

When weathering the underframes of rolling stock I sometimes paint it a mixture of Railmatch Frame Dirt and Weathered Black which will bring out the detail itself, and then use weathering powders to enhance the detail again, and other times for a lighter effect I just use the powders brushed on with a soft brush as in the finished 47614 Titan model pictured below.

 

 

Be careful when using weathering powders, ensure that you clean the model thoroughly first otherwise it will have more fingerprints than a CSI Crimescene, and always do a little at a time slowly building up different levels - Caution consider wearing gloves when using weathering powders and when used on the underframe, clean the wheels after to maintain pick-up and adhesion, and one other thing try not to sneeze as you will weather anything else in close proximity!!

 

This guide demonstrates just one technique for weathering stock, there are many others, however, I hope that you have found it of use, it is really about individual experimentation, for example - to get a faded rail blue you can use whites and greys thinned in exactly the same way using the same technique on a rail blue loco.

 

My regards

Kevin.

[Ragtag]

Excellent guide and what seems to be a fairly simple technique, now where did my old Hornby 37 get to...

[Temeraire]

Morning Kevin I thought I was on here at odd hours but 6.25am!

 

Nice tutorial by the way, pretty much the method I use too, slosh it on and wipe it off. I tend to use black for the roof and sleeper grime/frame dirt on the sides and ends, followed by dry brushing all three to suit after.

 

Melksham is okay for me on the Sunday (99% sure).

[Hampshire Hog]

Morning Kevin I thought I was on here at odd hours but 6.25am!

 

Nice tutorial by the way, pretty much the method I use too, slosh it on and wipe it off. I tend to use black for the roof and sleeper grime/frame dirt on the sides and ends, followed by dry brushing all three to suit after.

 

Melksham is okay for me on the Sunday (99% sure).

 

Many thanks guys, Temeraire the Sunday at Melksham will be good, you will be welcome, I am also looking forward to the 26th, and as for my early starts they are a result of many years having to get up early to drive trucks to some where that always seemed along way away.

 

Regards Kevin.

[Mike W]

That's a great weathering guide, thanks for posting it up. Will give it a try and see if it scales down to N......

[Hampshire Hog]

That's a great weathering guide, thanks for posting it up. Will give it a try and see if it scales down to N......

 

Hi 'Mike W', with my eyesight I would not like to attempt it in N, and I certainly wish you the best of luck, perhaps you could post some pictures when completed.

 

Regards Kevin.

[pitbull1845]

Hi Kevin,

Nice step by step guide, I will be attempting it in the not so distant future. Whats the worse that can happen? LOL.

 

I need to finish painting my warflat first.

 

Cheers

Scott

[PaulRhB]

First class Kevin, thanks. Just need to pluck up the courage.

 

Those marigolds are doing your hands a world of good, keeps the manicure perfect

[PaulRhB]

Reference the loads for warflats just found some FV432's I bought at ExpoNG last year from http://www.gramodels.co.uk/4mm_kits.php

Few bubbles in the resin but look ok to me at £12.50 each I'll primer it and post some pics tomorrow.

[PaulRhB]

Ok here's the Gramodels kit.

Quite a few bubbles and bits of flash but easily sorted with a bit of thick superglue. Careful trimming of the side skirt would allow the FV432 as seen in the photo to be modelled.

 

(Please note I own the copyright to the photo in the book shown so it's ok)

[Hampshire Hog]

First class Kevin, thanks. Just need to pluck up the courage.

 

Those marigolds are doing your hands a world of good, keeps the manicure perfect

 

Coz I'm worth it!! No, that wasn't me in the photos but my trusty mate Bert, He will keep blowing the marigolds up and placing them on his head

 

Thanks guys.

 

regards Kevin.

[a98087]

Nice to see im not the only one who uses that method, It can create amazing results especially on the newer highly detailed models with lots of nooks, crannies and rivets

 

Dan

[Hampshire Hog]

Ok here's the Gramodels kit.

Quite a few bubbles and bits of flash but easily sorted with a bit of thick superglue. Careful trimming of the side skirt would allow the FV432 as seen in the photo to be modelled.

 

(Please note I own the copyright to the photo in the book shown so it's ok)

 

Hi Paul, I have only just seen this, Many thanks to you.

 

regards Kevin

[sapper_k]

Hi there is that a oo gauge afv432? if so were did you get it from?

i have had many many hours of fun dring a 43 around canada/germany/poland etc i would like a few of them?