Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

10 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

I'd certainly be interested in one. The new Bachmann will be too expensive to dump half of it.

Good morning Paul,

 

I don't know what the forthcoming Bachmann RTR V2 will cost; £200.00? More?

 

Whether Mike Trice will sell his V2 bodies, I don't know, but (at whatever price) the cost of the body, plus everything else to complete it, will be well short of that. 

 

Yes, it's still got to be 'made', but, having now this morning got the wheels/motor installed (after painting the frames last evening) and the Cartazzi frames fixed on, just looking at the 'sit' of it, I'd say it's the most-accurate V2 I've got. That's not to demean the work of others, but it's just every inch a V2! 

 

Pick-ups and rods next. A report will follow..............................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited June 17, 2020 by Tony Wright
to add something

[St Enodoc]

1 hour ago, t-b-g said:

 

A friend of mine as a saying, I haven't heard it elsewhere but some may be familiar with it.

 

"There is no sense where there is no feeling"

 

It may, or may not apply here, I can't work out which!

That was certainly a common phrase when I was growing up.

[CUTLER2579]

1 hour ago, t-b-g said:

 

A friend of mine as a saying, I haven't heard it elsewhere but some may be familiar with it.                 Has

 

"There is no sense where there is no feeling"

 

It may, or may not apply here, I can't work out which!

 

Mr Gee,

I am surprised at you with your background.     As ?    no  HAS

Kind Regards,

Cockney Kid.

[Paul Cram]

25 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Tom,

 

One thing I should correct is my statement regarding the need for lubricators. As usual, I should have checked first! Mike supplied them (beautifully 3D-printed), in a little plastic bag. He also sent me a variety of chimneys and other bits and pieces.

 

In the later iteration, the backhead is a separate fitting; which will really help in the fitting of handrails before it's installed.

 

I have to say these 3D-printed items have now ridden me of any previous prejudice. With quality of this standard (no 'witness lines' at all), then even I will 'embrace' the new.

 

Just think, my fingers might even see a return to their having 'feelings'. And, even I have general 'feelings', even though it's reported I have no sense! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Hi Tony

Maaaking one isn't an issue as most of my models are kit built.

I had aquired a couple of Bachmann bodies and Underframes from Comet and Branchlines plus a set of Exactoscale wheels and was making it before I beacame ware of the deiencies in the Bachmann body at which point I lost interst in the project. I only need a body as the rest iof no use to me.

 

Regards

Paul

[Atso]

Good morning Tony,

 

25 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I have to say these 3D-printed items have now ridden me of any previous prejudice. With quality of this standard (no 'witness lines' at all), then even I will 'embrace' the new.

 

I have to admit, I never thought I'd see these sentences written by you!  

 

I too am very much impressed by Mike's V2, not just in terms of the incredibly well observed detail, but by his ability to print such a large 4mm scale model on his printer. As you know my own attempts at this resulted in failures and so I returned to only printing N gauge models on my printer (the same type as Mike's).

 

Well done to Mike for resolving some technical issues that I gave up with and an advanced well done to yourself as I know this will end up being another stunning model!

[chris p bacon]

51 minutes ago, Atso said:

I have to admit, I never thought I'd see these sentences written by you!  

 

I read it twice too 

[Hollar]

19 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

That's fine for accessible brass, but something a little more delicate and precise is required for whitemetal work.

 

On brass, too, the 3M wheels will get in where the big wire brush won't. For intermediate work on brass, I have some smaller brass cup brushes.

 

John Isherwood.

I've been thinking of trying out some bristle discs.  I'm not much troubled by stray flicks of glass fibre but if there's a less problematic alternative . . .  I find I can keep the work surface fairly clear with a trusty old stiff bristle flattie brush which serves as a 1:5 scale broom.

 

My question is, are the branded 3M discs worth the extra money over the unbranded alternatives available on Alibaba and eBay.  My other question is do you have any advice on which combination would be a worthwhile starter kit.  On the shelf next to my not-quite-finished kits I have  a  gadets-I-bought-but-never-warmed-to collection I don't wish to add to.

 

Tone

[t-b-g]

1 hour ago, CUTLER2579 said:

 

Mr Gee,

I am surprised at you with your background.     As ?    no  HAS

Kind Regards,

Cockney Kid.

 

My keyboard has a number of keys that are beyond their best. Any post I make without letters T,O and H was very likely made on the computer rather than the tablet and was done without wearing glasses! I know how to spell but typing was never my strong point and the dodgy keyboard just makes it worse. 

 

I thought you would be posting to say that you know the saying, since it comes from your family!

[Chamby]

2 hours ago, Atso said:

Good morning Tony,

 

I have to admit, I never thought I'd see these sentences written by you!  

 

I’ve lost track of what month it is, thanks to lockdown, let alone what day of the week...  

 

Is it April 1st today?

[CUTLER2579]

Tony, 

it was a saying my Mother often used and so quite likely her brother used it as well,hence you will have heard it used at No 73 on the odd occasion.

Derek.

[Barry Ten]

Here's the state of play of my Fowler tank:

 

 

Thanks for the advice regarding the ride height, all of which was helpful. I've got it about as low as I can without major butchery. I lowered the cylinders,, filed away their tops, reduced the pitch slightly, and carved a rebate into the underside of the footplate to get the cylinders tucked up as snugly as I could. I also notched the top of the motion bracket to let it tuck under the footplate. Some work on the body has now begun, in which I'm trying to see how much of the original lining I might be able to spare. The incorrectly applied emblem (thanks, Tony!) will go and be replaced by the earlier one, which I now prefer anyway. As far as I can tell from the chapter in Haresnape, which is all the reference I have on these locos, the chimney should be changed for a a Stanier type for a loco in BR condition.

 

 

Al

[cctransuk]

2 hours ago, Hollar said:

I've been thinking of trying out some bristle discs.  I'm not much troubled by stray flicks of glass fibre but if there's a less problematic alternative . . .  I find I can keep the work surface fairly clear with a trusty old stiff bristle flattie brush which serves as a 1:5 scale broom.

 

My question is, are the branded 3M discs worth the extra money over the unbranded alternatives available on Alibaba and eBay.  My other question is do you have any advice on which combination would be a worthwhile starter kit.  On the shelf next to my not-quite-finished kits I have  a  gadets-I-bought-but-never-warmed-to collection I don't wish to add to.

 

Tone

 

Tony,

 

The ones that I bought were the generic ones -

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/761590804.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4f0e1d4agZYbXk&algo_pvid=4641bcd4-225d-4158-a937-8a73de627bb3&algo_expid=4641bcd4-225d-4158-a937-8a73de627bb3-51&btsid=0b0a0ac215923952967257903e648e&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603

 

- which I suspect may well come from the same source as the branded ones!

 

They work perfectly well.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited June 17, 2020 by cctransuk

[Tony Wright]

4 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

That was certainly a common phrase when I was growing up.

I used it all the time in the classroom when someone bumped their head! 

[Tony Wright]

4 hours ago, Atso said:

Good morning Tony,

 

 

I have to admit, I never thought I'd see these sentences written by you!  

 

I too am very much impressed by Mike's V2, not just in terms of the incredibly well observed detail, but by his ability to print such a large 4mm scale model on his printer. As you know my own attempts at this resulted in failures and so I returned to only printing N gauge models on my printer (the same type as Mike's).

 

Well done to Mike for resolving some technical issues that I gave up with and an advanced well done to yourself as I know this will end up being another stunning model!

Good afternoon Steve,

 

Mike 'admits' that the V2 body had to be printed in two halves. The joint is just about invisible - just where the taper starts on the boiler. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

[Tony Wright]

4 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

Hi Tony

Maaaking one isn't an issue as most of my models are kit built.

I had aquired a couple of Bachmann bodies and Underframes from Comet and Branchlines plus a set of Exactoscale wheels and was making it before I beacame ware of the deiencies in the Bachmann body at which point I lost interst in the project. I only need a body as the rest iof no use to me.

 

Regards

Paul

Good afternoon Paul,

 

Having just been in email correspondence with Mike, he's going to post on here as to whether he'll offer the V2 bodies for sale.

 

For what it's worth (and I admit to knowing nothing of the practicalities of the 3D-printing), I hope he does. They really are brilliant, fit the Comet chassis with just a little bit of modification and will result in a top model. 

 

The old Bachmann V2 body is just not worth bothering with, and as for the original split chassis....................

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

[Tony Wright]

Considering it's only been 24 hours since the V2 bits arrived, I'm rather smug with progress.................... Progress would be further on, but I've been doing some BRM proofing this morning. 

 

 

The chassis now goes under its own power (beautifully-smoothly). The Portescap came from the estate of a deceased modeller and was rather gummed-up. No matter, a quick clean to shift the original red gunge, and away it went. It must be old because it doesn't whine. 

 

 

Rather against form, I've made this chassis electrically-dead. The drivers (five of them!) came from the same estate, and are the proper Markits V2 drivers; all-insulated, hence the need for two sets of pick-ups.

 

Anyway, at my demise, someone can DCC it with ease - something I'll never consider while I still breath. 

 

 

Edited June 17, 2020 by Tony Wright
to add something

[johndon]

On the workbench over the last couple of days, another of the, sadly no longer with us, Dave Alexander's excellent Consett Iron Ore hoppers:

 

 

I've built a few of these already and have just painted them with the final colour with no primer which, retrospectively, wasn't a great idea.  Can anyone recommend a good primer bearing in in mind the wagon contains parts made of white metal, brass, resin and plastic...

 

John

 

[Leander]

2 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

As far as I can tell from the chapter in Haresnape, which is all the reference I have on these locos, the chimney should be changed for a a Stanier type for a loco in BR condition.

 

LMS Loco Profiles Number 3 is the reference book you need. One is available on Amazon at the moment for £10.95. You'll get all the info you need re plain vs. fluted rods, plain or fluted wheel rims, chimney types, etc.

[landscapes]

20 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Every now and then, I start a project which I'm really excited about. The new Mike Trice V2 is just such an example.........................

 

 

Fortunately, having access to several Comet V2 frames I've built, I was able to assess immediately what might be needed by way of bodywork alteration. The deeper bits between the leading and centre drivers had to go, because they'd foul the motion support bracket otherwise. A few minutes' work with a coarse file did the trick.

 

 

Another source of immediate interference was the rear bracket supporting the footplate adjacent to the firebox. 

 

 

I made up the frames using my ancient (but extremely accurate) Jamieson jig. Here. I'm testing the initial fit before the support bracket had been soldered in place. Perfect!

 

 

As mentioned, Mike Trice sent me two bodies, the second iteration having the front steps included. The first one was used as a sort of guinea pig, and where I cut slots in the footplate to accommodate the support bracket is visible. This was achieved with a mini-circular saw in a mini-drill, cleaning up with files afterwards.

 

There is loads of space for subsequent ballast.

 

 

With mods tested and 'approved, I then altered the second body to fit the frames.

 

Note the internal splashers.

 

 

A perfect fit. I drilled and tapped a hole in the cab footplate to secure the rear end. 

 

Note the springs partly cut-away to accommodate the pick-ups.

 

These 3D-printed bodies are superb. Fat too good to fit on to a Bachmann chassis, even the later ones. I feel a further order to Comet coming on! 

 

More tomorrow, when I should have it running.  

 

Thanks again Mike. 

 

 

Hi Tony

 

great work as usual, you mention above a support bracket on the V2.

 

I hope you don’t mind me asking on your thread as it is so popular, I have been trying to find details of the, I believe it is called a footplate support bracket fitted either side on the A2/1 Pacific’s located between the pony track and the last driving wheel.

 

I have a few  photos of A2/1’s but none show enough detail to enable me to make one in brass at 00 scale.

 

Regards

 

David

[31A]

49 minutes ago, johndon said:

On the workbench over the last couple of days, another of the, sadly no longer with us, Dave Alexander's excellent Consett Iron Ore hoppers:

 

 

I've built a few of these already and have just painted them with the final colour with no primer which, retrospectively, wasn't a great idea.  Can anyone recommend a good primer bearing in in mind the wagon contains parts made of white metal, brass, resin and plastic...

 

John

 

 

I've found Halford's etching primer (aerosol) works well on both metal and plastic.  I thought it might attack the plastic but it doesn't, I've used it successfully on coaches with brass bodies and plastic roofs for example.

 

[davidw]

52 minutes ago, johndon said:

On the workbench over the last couple of days, another of the, sadly no longer with us, Dave Alexander's excellent Consett Iron Ore hoppers:

 

 

I've built a few of these already and have just painted them with the final colour with no primer which, retrospectively, wasn't a great idea.  Can anyone recommend a good primer bearing in in mind the wagon contains parts made of white metal, brass, resin and plastic...

 

John

 

An an etch primer Acid 8. Straight from the rattle can. It dries exceptionally smoothly and after 12 hrs  will take enamel or acrylics without any problems  

[richard i]

Speaking of A2/1 s. How easy would it be to alter the cad to print an accurate a2/1?  In detail changes and in cad / printing alterations needed. 
just curiosity.  To end up with a conversion off a V2 like mr king’s a2/3? 
richard
it just struck me how some people naturally fall into being mr. A sign of respect for their talents.?

[65179]

3 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

Here's the state of play of my Fowler tank:

 

 

Thanks for the advice regarding the ride height, all of which was helpful. I've got it about as low as I can without major butchery. I lowered the cylinders,, filed away their tops, reduced the pitch slightly, and carved a rebate into the underside of the footplate to get the cylinders tucked up as snugly as I could. I also notched the top of the motion bracket to let it tuck under the footplate. Some work on the body has now begun, in which I'm trying to see how much of the original lining I might be able to spare. The incorrectly applied emblem (thanks, Tony!) will go and be replaced by the earlier one, which I now prefer anyway. As far as I can tell from the chapter in Haresnape, which is all the reference I have on these locos, the chimney should be changed for a a Stanier type for a loco in BR condition.

 

 

Al

 

It's looking good. I'm not sure if it's the Stanier type you need (although if I had to guess I'd say so), but there are a couple of 1950s views of 42368 (and Buxton classmates 42366 and 42367) in the Manchester Locomotive Society article here:  http://manlocosoc.co.uk/f264.html which will help others decide.

 

Simon

[Ray Flintoft]

On 15/06/2020 at 22:33, Willie Whizz said:

 

The coal drencher was a ( usually built on site ) device for damping down the coal before it was hoisted up & tipped into a cenotaph coaling tower . This avoided the local area being blanketed with a cloud of coal dust !

   I don't know how many sheds had them & information & photographs are very hard to find but York definitely had one . Hope this helps .

                            Thanks ,

                                 Ray .

[Ray Flintoft]

On 15/06/2020 at 21:01, Tony Wright said:

You've disguised its origin very well, Ray,

 

At first glance, I assumed it was a DJH kit. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thankyou for that , Tony , it makes all the remedial work worth while . The kit was bought many years ago , long before DJH brought out their much superior version . However , it only cost about £40 , hence my reason for persevering with it !

                 Best wishes ,

                                Ray .