RMweb Premium Barry O Posted March 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2018 Try and get some thread lock. It's by lost its but it used to be green or blue in colour and fills the gaps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 (edited) If you go as far as to key or pin the wheel on the axle, you might want to mark or note the location of the retainer and make it removable too in case of future need to take the wheel off again. Other comments posted on the exclusive channel. Edited March 5, 2018 by gr.king Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebbles Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I doubt whether the keyway suggestion would work as described. The wheel being plastic would result in the drill skipping the steel axle and only drilling into the wheel. My solution would be to drill a suitable size hole in a piece of flat steel - 1/16inch seems about right - to take the axle an then proceed to drill as described. However. I don't think that you would need to subsequently re-drill as the softer plastic may enable the wire to be forced into place. This solution does not prevent any subsequent removal of the wheel as the keyway only prevents the wheel rotating on the axle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Hornby wheels are cheap (or they were) , I too have doubts whether viable, as the plastic is quite soft , which is probably the reason for failure. Much easier to use a new wheel set . I have few spares if they prove elusive to buy if needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I doubt whether the keyway suggestion would work as described. The wheel being plastic would result in the drill skipping the steel axle and only drilling into the wheel. My solution would be to drill a suitable size hole in a piece of flat steel - 1/16inch seems about right - to take the axle an then proceed to drill as described. However. I don't think that you would need to subsequently re-drill as the softer plastic may enable the wire to be forced into place. This solution does not prevent any subsequent removal of the wheel as the keyway only prevents the wheel rotating on the axle. I hadn't appreciated that the wheel in question is plastic - your method is therefore better. I would, however, redrill the hole in-situ to avoid any chance of distorting the plastic wheel by forcing in the pin. Another method that I have used is to drill at 45 degrees into the wheel, between spokes, and then carry on into the axle. A pin can then be inserted to lock the wheel and axle together - but it is a permanent fixture. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Finally, a loco failure. One of my Tom Foster A1s and the rear driver is out of quarter. It's actually become mobile on the axle, so although it can be forced back to the correct position it slips again as soon as it's under load. Oddly enough the same thing happened to one of Mr. King's A1s as well. I'm going to have a go at it with epoxy resin first, but I've ordered another wheelset from Peter's Spares in case that doesn't hold it. Well if you will deal with dodgy sellers..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 I know, but I'm a sucker for a wide firebox and a bit of Klear..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) On we went last night: the messy job first, digging out underneath the van and thinning solebars enough to allow the rocking unit to do its stuff. It's had the axleboxes fitted since the photo was taken. Then I took a deep breath and pulled Night Hawk apart. I've had a number of suggestions for securing the wheel, so I decided to start with the least invasive and used Loctite. It's now back together and I'll give it a haulage test on Thursday. Edited May 4, 2018 by jwealleans 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) On we go - tonight I reached the box of carriages. It often surprises me that we don't damage these more as they are handled quite a bit during shows as trains are remarshalled. That is not a complaint. This time there was a bit to do, though. The first job wasn't a repair, but the last of the end door covers which needed fitting on the outside carriage of a set. I was one short when I made these up and this one has been kicking about since I bought the MJT etch at Warley. BCK 42873 runs at the head of the 13:40 KX - Ripon (the first outing for Teak set 5) and in reality worked up to York. 42969 was one of the first two carriages I built for Grantham. It runs in every version of Teak Set 5, one of only two carriages which do so and in the course of the sequence therefore works to Ripon, Leeds and Newcastle. Somewhere in transit after Linwark it's had a jolt and the coupling had been badly bent against the side of the box. 41358, a D37A BTK (5) is the other vehicle which is ever present in Teak Set 5. It goes to Scarborough and Leeds (twice). I found a bolster rattling round in the boxes and traced it back to this bogie. The one from the other side had also gone, but luckily I had one in the spares box. While taking the photo I also noticed the missing glazing and commode handle hanging off, both of which have been attended to. It's not immediately apparent from this side, but 4223 is one of the D 218BB BCKs built by the GN which had two coupe compartments, one for each class. The battery box on this side had come adrift but was soldered back without melting any seats. 4223 is the through carriage for Bridlington in the 13:40 from KX. Edited May 2, 2018 by jwealleans 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) Always admired your teak finish Jonathan! The grain is particularly effective. I've managed to pick up a Hornby Gresley Non Corridor Brake 3rd for the 'new' project. It's one of first releases with the decent teak finish. Hoping to achieve what I did 5 years ago on one of these (Now part of Brad's Whitby Westcliffe stock). Recently saw Hornby's current teak coaches.....awful! Edited March 7, 2018 by 9793 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Thanks, Tom. I'm with you on the later Hornby teak finishes and (with the caveat that I haven't seen one in the plastic yet) on the Bachmann Thompsons as well. I still intend to have a go at the Mike Trice technique for one of those, probably an older one, when time permits. They look fabulous in BR livery but the teak effort doesn't cut it for me at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 for the 'new' project. Surely you can't leave it at that? Full disclosure please. Pretty please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 You clearly don't waste enough of your life on t'Internet, Mr. king. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1816070902053393/permalink/2004821759844972/?comment_id=2005064276487387¬if_id=1520328337364376¬if_t=group_comment_mention&ref=notif Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 I haven't exposed myself to Facebook membership. Even my wife quit Facebook after it became swamped with unwanted advertising and account hackers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Oh I’ll give you a sneak peek Mr King! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Oh I’ll give you a sneak peek Mr King! EF72BDD8-DF29-47FF-8847-8D8FC7AC877D.jpeg Tom, What period are you planning to set the model in? Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 1950-1954 before passenger services ceased in April 54, but can run my K1 on goods up to 64. Sorry off topic Jonathan! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) Diverge away, Tom. Some nice wagon porn in the background. I assume you already know that looks like a G6 body? ( I can't recall whether we've discussed it or not). One at Beamish: Edited May 2, 2018 by jwealleans 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Oh I’ll give you a sneak peek Mr King! EF72BDD8-DF29-47FF-8847-8D8FC7AC877D.jpeg Back to the correct region I see. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Back to the correct region I see. Indeed, although I suspect the era isn’t to your liking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Diverge away, Tom. Some nice wagon porn in the background. I assume you already know that looks like a G6 body? ( I can't recall whether we've discussed it or not).One at Beamish: Ah yes you had mentioned that in an email a year or so ago when I first had these ideas. I think you had said you thought it was a grounded body. Interesting location a long way from home. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) 1950-1954 before passenger services ceased in April 54, but can run my K1 on goods up to 64. Sorry off topic Jonathan! Tom, Are you going to set up a thread, so we can leave Jonathan's thread on topic? 1950 - 1954 gives you all sorts of motive power scope, though I guess you know this. As at the last day of the LNER - 31/12/1947, Northallerton had D20's (3), J25's (4), G5's (2), Y3 (1), N10 (1), N9 (1). As at August 1950 that had changed to D20's (4), J21 (1), J25's (3), G5's (2), Y3 (1), N10 (1) Then, of course, there would be the excursions up to Hawes with all manner of things NER or LNER. Fair bit of scope for some kit building there!!! Cheers Mike Edited March 8, 2018 by mikemeg 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Always admired your teak finish Jonathan! The grain is particularly effective. Agreed, they look very natural. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottiedog Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 I know where it is! I know where it is! I know where it is! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Calm down, dear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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