Pragmatic Pre-Grouping - Mikkel's Workbench

[Mikkel]

This morning I dug out a little project that has been sitting in my drawer for a while, namely a resin kit for an LSWR one-plank open wagon from Graham Baker of Gramodels. I don’t really need this wagon, but I saw Jonathan’s model of it in this post and simply liked it.
 
The kit consists of the body only. The photo below shows a 3-planker that I had also ordered, and the one-planker (with flash cleaned off) at the bottom. As you can see both wagons sport a graceful curve   .
 
 
 
 
Fortunately the instructions deal with this: Take one bowl of hot water and add the body:
 

 
 
…bend body back to shape on a straight surface, and apply weight until cool:
 

 
 
...serve with a pragmatic state of mind and a healthy dose of modeller’s joy:
 

 

 

Comparing the body with the drawing in An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons, it seems to be about 0.5 mm too short. For a relaxed little project such as this, that doesn’t bother me much (the 3-planker is more off the mark it seems, but I could have misunderstood something). 

 

Next step is to get things below the solebar in place. These don’t come with the kit, but I’ve got some LSWR kits and bits from ABS that should provide the solution.

Edited April 6, 2015 by Mikkel

[garethashenden]

Do you know the year of the prototype? I look forward to seeing the finished model.

[N15class]

This morning I dug out a little project that has been sitting in my drawer for a while, namely a resin kit for an LSWR one-plank open wagon from Graham Baker of Gramodels. I don’t really need this wagon, but I saw Jonathan’s model of it in this post and simply liked it.

 

The kit consists of the body only. The photo below shows a 3-planker that I had also ordered, and the one-planker (with flash cleaned off) at the bottom. As you can see both wagons sport a graceful curve   .

 

 

 

 

Fortunately the instructions deal with this: Take one bowl of hot water and add the body:

 

 

 

…bend body back to shape on a straight surface, and apply weight until cool:

 

 

 

...serve with a pragmatic state of mind and a healthy dose of modeller’s joy:

 

 

 

Comparing the body with the drawing in An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons, it seems to be about 0.5 mm too short. For a relaxed little project such as this, that doesn’t bother me much (the 3-planker is more off the mark it seems, but I could have misunderstood something). 

 

Next step is to get things below the solebar in place. These don’t come with the kit, but I’ve got some LSWR kits and bits from ABS that should provide the solution.

 

Glad to see you have finally got around to modelling someting from a real railway )

Looking forward to this one.

[Mikkel]

 

Do you know the year of the prototype? I look forward to seeing the finished model.

 

 

Good question. I only have "Southern wagons" which is vague on the date of introduction. It says: "The design dates back to the Beattie period. However, those surviving at the Grouping were built between 1892 and 1910." The SR diagram was 1308. Apparently they were built mainly for stone traffic from Isle of Portland and Cornwall.

 

My plan is to do the one illustrated in the book, which was LSWR 9094 of 1900. This was the type with wooden solebar. Gramodels also have the steel underframe type. 

Edited April 6, 2015 by Mikkel

[raymw]

Hi Mikkel, I was hoping you were going to do it in your wood veneer.

[Mikkel]

Glad to see you have finally got around to modelling someting from a real railway )

Looking forward to this one.

 

 I think you might have influenced me with your superb builds. And possibly Rob of GWR Brent who seems to have the same secret leanings. Is there an LSWR conspiracy I wonder.

 

I do like the earlier LSWR stock, and it suits the location of Farthing reasonably well. As does the MSWJR, SDJR and MR. Pure coincidence, of course.

[Mikkel]

Hi Mikkel, I was hoping you were going to do it in your wood veneer.

 

It's not a bad idea actually. Especially for a one-planker as you wouldn't have the problem of groves etc. But then again: It would need to be laminated, partly for strength, and partly because the rear side is paper. Might become too thick...

[Tony Teague]

Hi Mikkel

Have only just discovered your thread and the 'printing on veneer' topic.

I found this really inspirational and will have to have a go.

I have placed my order with Crafty Computer Paper!

Tony

[PhilJ W]

The gyro-cut will cut card up too 240 gsm according to the packaging. To cut Wills sheets its best to score the sheets first with a knife, bend the sheet along the score line, the cut can then  be cleaned up with a file.

[Mikkel]

Hi Mikkel

Have only just discovered your thread and the 'printing on veneer' topic.

I found this really inspirational and will have to have a go.

I have placed my order with Crafty Computer Paper!

Tony

 

Hi Tony, glad if has been of use, it's good fun, not least finding the names and companies on the web (or coming up with them!). A search for "old crates" in Google Images gives a wide choice.

[Mikkel]

The gyro-cut will cut card up too 240 gsm according to the packaging. To cut Wills sheets its best to score the sheets first with a knife, bend the sheet along the score line, the cut can then  be cleaned up with a file.

 

Yes those Wills sheets. Now if someone could invent a cutter for them!

[Castle]

Hi Mikkel,

 

I love the use of delicate adjustment tools shown here. I would be afraid to use that hammer on the full size stuff, let alone the 4mm scale!

 

A brilliant thread as always good sir and on the 'must read' list in the Castle household!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

[Mikkel]

Hi Mikkel,

 

I love the use of delicate adjustment tools shown here. I would be afraid to use that hammer on the full size stuff, let alone the 4mm scale!

 

A brilliant thread as always good sir and on the 'must read' list in the Castle household!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

 

Hi Castle, that hammer has weighted many a model railway item. It's a Norse thing

 

I take great pleasure in using tools for the wrong things. For example, one of our bread knives is excellent for shortening rawl plugs. Long live the fine art of bodging 

Edited April 9, 2015 by Mikkel

[Mikkel]

Onwards with the LSWR stone wagon. The kit gives you the body, and you have to source the other parts yourself. I first had a go at building my own Panther’s axleboxes (right), using a modified GWR grease box (left) as a basis. They were a little coarse though, and I’m not sure the LSWR would have approved of their GWR origin!
 

 
 
Instead, I cannibalized the W-irons, axle boxes, brakegear and buffers from a spare ABS kit for an LSWR 5-plank open. The ends will be used for another project, so not too much was wasted.
 

 
 
I used an old MJT unit to align the ABS W-irons. They will be finished off more nicely in due course. The wheels are a bit of a problem: The photo in Southern Wagons show open-spoked wheels in 1948, but I see Jonathan has modelled solid wheels on his LSWR version. I wonder what is correct for my 1900-1907 period? 
 

 
 
Another tricky issue is the brake arrangement. I don’t actually have a photo of one of this wagon from my 1900s period, and as a GWR man I find the LSWR brake systems bewildering (I know I’m not the only one!). Looking through An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons vol 1, I’m guessing it would be one of the following (there are several others!):
 
1) Single sided, single block brake
2) Single sided, double block brake (right push rod over left push rod)
3) Panter’s cross- lever brake (right over left)
4) Morton’s brake (left over right)
5) Lifting-link lever brake (left over right)
 
The one-plankers I’m building were made ca. 1892-1910. The double block brakes were commonly fitted to wagons in the 1890s, and the Panter’s from 1896-1904, so I’m thinking one of those might be plausible. So I’ve fitted brakes “right over left”, and am now pondering whether to use a normal lever (option 2) or the more unusual Panter’s lever (option 3).
 

 
 
But really I’m just guessing based on the limited evidence I have. LSWR specialists are very welcome to put me right!

[N15class]

Onwards with the LSWR stone wagon. The kit gives you the body, and you have to source the other parts yourself. I first had a go at building my own Panther’s axleboxes (right), using a modified GWR grease box (left) as a basis. They were a little coarse though, and I’m not sure the LSWR would have approved of their GWR origin!

 

 

 

Instead, I cannibalized the W-irons, axle boxes, brakegear and buffers from a spare ABS kit for an LSWR 5-plank open. The ends will be used for another project, so not too much was wasted.

 

 

 

I used an old MJT unit to align the ABS W-irons. They will be finished off more nicely in due course. The wheels are a bit of a problem: The photo in Southern Wagons show open-spoked wheels in 1948, but I see Jonathan has modelled solid wheels on his LSWR version. I wonder what is correct for my 1900-1907 period? 

 

 

 

Another tricky issue is the brake arrangement. I don’t actually have a photo of one of this wagon from my 1900s period, and as a GWR man I find the LSWR brake systems bewildering (I know I’m not the only one!). Looking through An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons vol 1, I’m guessing it would be one of the following (there are several others!):

 

1) Single sided, single block brake

2) Single sided, double block brake (right push rod over left push rod)

3) Panter’s cross- lever brake (right over left)

4) Morton’s brake (left over right)

5) Lifting-link lever brake (left over right)

 

The one-plankers I’m building were made ca. 1892-1910. The double block brakes were commonly fitted to wagons in the 1890s, and the Panter’s from 1896-1904, so I’m thinking one of those might be plausible. So I’ve fitted brakes “right over left”, and am now pondering whether to use a normal lever (option 2) or the more unusual Panter’s lever (option 3).

 

 

 

But really I’m just guessing based on the limited evidence I have. LSWR specialists are very welcome to put me right!

Having done some LSWR/SR modelling neither liked spending money, They were apt a putting the next available set of wheels onto a wagon, even if it started with open spoked. 

[Mikkel]

Having done some LSWR/SR modelling neither liked spending money, They were apt a putting the next available set of wheels onto a wagon, even if it started with open spoked. 

 

Thanks Pete, that would be a very convenient solution. I was wondering whether solid wheels were a special requirement for wagons of this type in the early days. But maybe not.

[DonB]

 

Yes those Wills sheets. Now if someone could invent a cutter for them!

 

By coincidence, Today's MRE has a "hints and tips" on this subject.  http://www.mremag.com/news/bulletin.asp

Scroll down to "Hints & Tips No.969 - Cutting Thick Plastikard (Styrene) Part 1

By Peter Harvey"

 

Hi Castle, that hammer has weighted many a model railway item. It's a Norse thing

 

I take great pleasure in using tools for the wrong things. For example, one of our bread knives is excellent for shortening rawl plugs. Long live the fine art of bodging 

 

John Ward of the Mickleover Club Is a master of carving rock faces and formations from Styrene using a Curved Grapefruit knife. I believe he will be demonstrating this at the Roundhouse show in May (see below)

[garethashenden]

For the axle spacing/alignment you should consider a set of these. They're wonderful, takes all the fuss out of it. http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/axle_gauges.htm

[Mikkel]

 

Yes those Wills sheets. Now if someone could invent a cutter for them!

 

By coincidence, Today's MRE has a "hints and tips" on this subject.  http://www.mremag.com/news/bulletin.asp

Scroll down to "Hints & Tips No.969 - Cutting Thick Plastikard (Styrene) Part 1

By Peter Harvey"

 

 

John Ward of the Mickleover Club Is a master of carving rock faces and formations from Styrene using a Curved Grapefruit knife. I believe he will be demonstrating this at the Roundhouse show in May (see below

 

Great tip Don, I'd never heard of the P cutter before. Must get one of those. There are even people who modfiy it I see: http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/101-200/tnt105-OlfaP-cutter-Aleong/00.shtm

[Mikkel]

For the axle spacing/alignment you should consider a set of these. They're wonderful, takes all the fuss out of it. http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/axle_gauges.htm

 

Many thanks, the shopping list is growing!

 

I'm always a little amazed that it is at all possible to get decent running with four individually mounted W-irons and axleboxes. Or even two fixed  MJT units, which is what I normally use. I guess it's the bearings that save the day - and forgiving track standards maybe.

 

It would be great to take the hassle out of it, so this will be a big help.

[ChrisN]

Mikkel,

Came across your thread by accident as due to time constraints I tend not to read threads I have not been with for a while or Pre-Grouping or Welsh ones.  I wondered why your thread had been quiet but now I know.  Excellent modelling as usual I will follow with interest.

 

Wrong type of printer for the veneer but plenty of ideas.

[Mikkel]

I've installed my crates and tea chests in the Farthing goods depot:
 

 
There are more photos in the layout blog.

 

[MikeOxon]

Yes those Wills sheets. Now if someone could invent a cutter for them!

One of my toys for Christmas was a Dremel Moto Saw.  It simply clamps to the side of my work desk and the blades are very easy to fit, so I do not find it much hassle to set up when needed.  It's basically a motorised fret-saw and makes light work of PCB and hard plastic sheets and can also tackle thin brass sheets.

 

 

Mike

[Mikkel]

Mikkel,

Came across your thread by accident as due to time constraints I tend not to read threads I have not been with for a while or Pre-Grouping or Welsh ones.  I wondered why your thread had been quiet but now I know.  Excellent modelling as usual I will follow with interest.

 

Wrong type of printer for the veneer but plenty of ideas.

Hi Chris, yes the need for a top loaded printer is a bit of a hurdle with these veneer sheets. Another option for the lettering would be transfers. The same company sells som DIY transfer sheets that I ordered along with the veneer sheets. Haven’t tried those out yet though.

One of my toys for Christmas was a Dremel Moto Saw.  It simply clamps to the side of my work desk and the blades are very easy to fit, so I do not find it much hassle to set up when needed.  It's basically a motorised fret-saw and makes light work of PCB and hard plastic sheets and can also tackle thin brass sheets.

 

MotoSaw.jpg

 

Mike

 

Hi Mike, thanks for that. I like the idea that it also does thin brass, as you know I’ve a mind to copy your brass building techniques at some point. This thread is becoming rather expensive, what with all those nice tools I suddenly feel the urge to have   

[Portchullin Tatty]

Thanks for showing the removal of a the curve in the resin casting.  I had heard it was possible but was a bit sceptical.  No more!