woodenhead Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 My current baseboards were laid using 4mm ply. Whilst I avoided the DIY stores when making my purchase they are not completely flat and I suspect thickness plays a part (the board not me!) Also 4mm boards are rubbish if you want to screw in a Seep point motor underneath. So my question is, what is the optimum thickness of ply baseboard where it will be flat, can be screwed into but won't weigh a ton? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tase Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 9mm is probably the ideal depth IMO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnb Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I'd agree I much prefer 9mm ply. I have used thinner (6mm) but am not keen on it. Go for 9mm and use the 4mm for backscenes and other non structural stuff. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I would probably agree with 9mm although I use 12mm ply for a permanent layout. Even though I'm using 12mm, there is still a need to brace the board adequately to avoid twist and warp over time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted August 1, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 1, 2015 It depends on the bracing that you use and the scale you work in. I find 6mm perfect, especially on larger boards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crompton 33 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I use 9mm Birch ply. This is ok for point motors to be screwed in . You will need to brace the ply as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Sorry forgot scale and current set up. Scale is N scale. The layout floats as it is wall hung, currently round 2 walls, one is a solid wall the other an internal plasterboard effort. New width will be 2 foot up from the current 18 inches, I guess I might need to add a couple of legs just to support a wider more substantial board. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Hayter Posted August 1, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 1, 2015 I have built in 5mm ply - a freebee from the back of an abandoned wardrobe and the ply was tending to sag between the 30cm (1ft) supports. 6mm ply has been OK however. Both will take small screws for holding point motors. the thinner the ply the more important it is to brace the ply under-surface directly in both directions at roughly 30cm centres. I note from the picture that you are directly bracing across the boards, but seem not to be directly bracing down the length of the boards. Relying on a brace supporting the cross braces, but not supporting the baseboard directly is likely to lead to sagging. All of these comments are pretty much made without regard to scale and gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted August 1, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 1, 2015 Consider quality as much as thickness. We had some 9mm ply at the club that was akin to a McVities digestive biscuit dipped in tea. 6mm birch ply was stronger. Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted August 1, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 1, 2015 I would suggest that not only do you need to provide adequate bracing, you need to provide adequate support to that bracing itself. I wouldn't be surprised if a frame that was only supported by supports no more than a couple of inches wide in two places, would itself start to twist and go out of shape. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 So what I am hearing is birch ply and bracing in both directions and I might get away with 6 inches thickness. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted August 1, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2015 Might be a little on the heavy side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Might be a little on the heavy side. That is a concern looking at Birch Ply on the web. Mind when I were a lad, chipboard was your standard baseboard top.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 6mm ply will work if properly braced. My 4mm scale portable layout is built with a 6mm top and braced with the same material at 16" centres. It was built in 2009 and has remained stable. It sits on a pair of 1"x 3" L-girder frames. I have since changed the bracing under the L girder for added stability. The hole in the deck is for a sliding shelf type fiddleyard. HTH David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
28XX Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Minority report. 11mm OSB2. Not everybody will agree with me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 6mm ply will work if properly braced. My 4mm scale portable layout is built with a 6mm top and braced with the same material at 16" centres. It was built in 2009 and has remained stable. It sits on a pair of 1"x 3" L-girder frames. I have since changed the bracing under the L girder for added stability. framework.jpg The hole in the deck is for a sliding shelf type fiddleyard. framework & deck.jpg HTH David What sort of ply is that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted August 1, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2015 That is a concern looking at Birch Ply on the web. Mind when I were a lad, chipboard was your standard baseboard top.... Actually, I was just being flippant regarding your apparent typo. You mean 6mm ply not 6 inch ply? I've just dug out my copy of Barry Norman's Landscape Modelling to check and he used 9mm ply sandwiching softwood blocks for Petherick but mentions that he has since used the same method with 6mm and that seems stable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 What sort of ply is that? 5 ply Baltic birch IIRC. FWIW the layout now looks like this. Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Storey Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 If your room is subject to humidity and/or wide temperature variations, I would strongly suggest that you go for marine (or external) ply next time, at whatever depth - I agree with others that 9mm carries the least risk of sagging for 00, but maybe you can get away with 6mm for N gauge, given sufficient bracing, as the weight of trains and scenery is lower. Over-soaking when ballasting or making scenery should also be avoided. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted August 2, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 2, 2015 I was looking at this last year. At the same time, to keep SWMBO happy, I decided that some decent flooring in the kitchen and dining room would be good to earn points. We I decided on Karndean Flooring from one of their local cntract outlets/fitters. Thefitters have to guarantee excellent work to keep their Karndean Contract and use top class underply at 6mm. Helpful chaps who understood model railway work! I was directed to their local timber supplier at Donny. That's where I got my huge sheets cut to a convenient size for tops and sides/braces as well. Bit of a bonus is that the Contract firm have given me loads of their 'leftovers' and I can pop in anytime to collect more as it only gets dumped!! Not suggesting you need new flooring, however your local firm may well be pleased for you to take 'leftovers' as they have to pay for disposal at the dump! I have found 6mm, well braced is fine for 4' X 3' portable boards as per Barry Norman. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Warping and twisting is likely to be caused by a pine frame. Kiln-dried pine makes good bonfires. This baseboard is made from 4mm Scandinavian birch ply'. It's 4 feet by 2 feet and the sides, ends and cross-beams are 6 inches deep. The only pine parts are the spacer blocks. I have four baseboards to this design for my 7mm exhibition layout and they have remained stable with no signs of distortion since they were built in 2010. As it is an exhibition layout it is most important that the weight is kept down. They were also quick to make as I got the supplier to cut the sheets to 2 foot and 6 inch strips. Scandinavian birch ply' is not cheap but it's worth spending more on baseboards IMHO to get a stable result. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWales Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 9mm marine pIy if you can get it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Actually, I was just being flippant regarding your apparent typo. You mean 6mm ply not 6 inch ply? I've just dug out my copy of Barry Norman's Landscape Modelling to check and he used 9mm ply sandwiching softwood blocks for Petherick but mentions that he has since used the same method with 6mm and that seems stable. Six inches would guarantee no warping though, LOL. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 If your room is subject to humidity and/or wide temperature variations, I would strongly suggest that you go for marine (or external) ply next time, at whatever depth - I agree with others that 9mm carries the least risk of sagging for 00, but maybe you can get away with 6mm for N gauge, given sufficient bracing, as the weight of trains and scenery is lower. Over-soaking when ballasting or making scenery should also be avoided. It's in the study/office and it's a nice stable temperature. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Guess I'd better calculate how much ply I am going to need and then contact some local merchants who cut. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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