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Pawson's Prize Winning Pickles


kes
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Hi Kes.

 

Your layout is certainly coming along at a great pace and looks very good too.

 

May I make a suggestion? You may already have plans to do this (in which case do ignore my post) but please fill in the bottom of the grooves in the inlaid track. I have seen many layout at exhibitions where inlaid track has been modelled and it is possible to see right down to the baseboard - not good. In my goods shed I used thin plastic sheet cut slightly wider than the track gauge and then gently prodded it down below rail level so that it rested on the top of the chairs. I needed mine to be slightly curved to form a drainage channel but it should work on the flat if that is what you need. A second layer of plastic can then be laminated on top to form the road surface, which can then be scribed using a pin in a pin chuck to represent cobbles.

 

This is just a suggestion and is not intended as criticism - your layout is really good - so guild the Lilly to make it excellent!

 

Rod 

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I'd agree that seeing baseboard is not helpful - perhaps filing to sleeper level with plaster blu-tac, plasticine, whatever and ensuring the colours are a murky rusty dirty mixture (with the odd tuft of weed or grass) would achieve the objective?

 

 

HTH

Simon

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Nice technique!

 

Very believable for corrugated asbestos sheeting!

 

I bought some corrugated card from one of the high st craft shops, but seem to have mislaid it... When I find it I'll try this trick.

 

Thanks

Simon

Corduroy card from Hobbycraft makes convincing corrugated asbestos: http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/corduroy-harvest-card/563116-1000

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Today I have been slapping a base coat of colour on the brickwork and lintels so I can get a better idea of what it will look like. I will post photos tomorrow when the light is better.

 

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Plenty of weathering needed.

 

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Windows from PurpleBob on a well known internet auction site.

 

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Overall view

 

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The windows will be given a coat of matt varnish on the inside, so the woodwork cannot be seen, but light can still pass through them.

Edited by kes
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"Ok, which idiot in Control sent us a Midland 483 rebuild with ONE van in tow?!"

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"It will never get round the run round loop!"

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(It did - Just - with much squealing of flanges. At least it is the right colour for a Christmas Engine.)

 

Merry Christmas Everyone!

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Just been walking along the beach at Whitby, picking up large rocket sticks. They are dead straight and knot free timber. Cut up into suitable lengths, they make good lumbar piles, or wagon loads.

 

Happy New Year Everyone!

 

Kev

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  • 2 weeks later...

Your continued progress would be most welcome. Your baseboard decisions also helped me build mine.

But I must ask. How did you keep electrics going over the join? Ive considered on mine, to route the bus wires through the two hinges, that way there is no loose wires anywhere pinchable.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Your continued progress would be most welcome. Your baseboard decisions also helped me build mine.

But I must ask. How did you keep electrics going over the join? Ive considered on mine, to route the bus wires through the two hinges, that way there is no loose wires anywhere pinchable.

Hi, I used a multicore flex which is fastened to the back of the supports for the rear hinge using cable clips, so it flexes when the board is folded. I have had a slight setback as I have had to move one of my hand built points by 3" to get reliable uncoupling on one of the sidings. It just shows how critical positioning is with such a small layout. I will post more photos later.

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Here is a photo of the back side of the join showing the multicore flex emerging from one board before diving into the second. It still needs clipping to the hinge supports.

It should not give much trouble as it only has to bend very little.

The other end of it goes to 9 section switches so I can isolate any length of as required.

There has been much activity recently as I had to move one of the points 3" towards the joint in order to ensure reliable coupling. I then started on my pet hate - ballasting.

Once this is complete I can begin weathering the track.

It is coming along nicely. Roll on the warmer weather!

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Edited by kes
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Yes, I can imagine scribing inset track blockwork would really drive me up the wall!  The ballast and track are going to be painted using the airbrush, but not in the kitchen. I will wait for the weather to warm up a bit and move the layout into the garage where I can make as much mess as possible. The chimneys are hopefully going to hide the 90 degree change in the back scenes either side of the bridge.

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I have spent this afternoon painting the rails sides with a nice mix of Humbrol matt 32 dark grey and matt 113 leather. This gives a nice dirty look to the rail sides, rather than the bright orange "rust" you sometimes see. I would advice anyone doing this not to use "Rust" as it does not look right, unless you are modelling brand new rail which has just been laid. weather everything in sight with thinned light grey and light brown until it looks suitably "industrial".

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Edited by kes
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I have been looking at various corrugated plastic sheets with which to roof the canopy on the works. I then remembered what John and Paul at our club had told me about corrugated card. I found some with the right width to represent concrete/asbestos sheets as used in industry from about 1925. I soaked the top skin on the card, left it for a while, then gently peeled off the top layer to leave a corrugated structure. Once cut into suitably sized sheets, these were glued to the canopy trusses. Ridge tiles from card with a round ridge of cocktail stick was added, and the whole lot painted matt grey before distressing it with all sorts of grey/brown/black washes. It is not dirty enough yet, but I wanted to prove that it looked ok.

 

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Bare card cut into sheets - these were the rejects

 

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Thats a very neat and effect method! Nice work!!

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When I did the Greater Windowledge Railway, I used a watery mix of brown, black and iron oxide acrylics in the airbrush. I think I was rather stronger on the iron oxide in the mix for the rails and chairs, and rather weaker for the rest. The acrylics don't smell horrid when airbrushing indoors.

 

HTH

Simon

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  • 4 weeks later...

I took the layout to our Whitby Model Railway Club meeting this week to gauge reaction to it. It was very well received and gained some useful comments for a few more scenic ideas. It is now set up on trestles in the garage so the process of weathering can begin. My wonderful wife Maggie has made a black curtain to go around the base, attached with sewn-on velcro. I also have to attach the lighting rig I used on Mickleover, so there is much activity going on over the next week or so.

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I have just read through the whole topic for the first time, very inspirational, I have been working on something similar for a very long time now, and seeing yours has given me the boot up the rear to get on with mine, well done so far, can,t wait for the next episode.

 

 

Pete.

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Well, yesterday was warm enough to get the airbrush out and filth-up the ballast. It is beginning to look properly industrial now.

I now need to start making the signage on the computer and add these to the buildings before I weather them. The oil tank needs pipes and ladders, and the workshop roof needs a few simple metal chimney stacks poking through it. I also need to make a selection of wooden crates to sit on the loading docks, and maybe a yard crane on the far loading dock.

 

 

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Edited by kes
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I have just read through the whole topic for the first time, very inspirational, I have been working on something similar for a very long time now, and seeing yours has given me the boot up the rear to get on with mine, well done so far, can,t wait for the next episode.

 

 

Pete.

I am glad you like it and you are re-inspired to progress your own layout.

 

Kevin.

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