RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted February 24, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2020 15 hours ago, bradfordbuffer said: That's NOT a hare!.....its a BEAST.... Think you need to post proof of 12 inch to foot shoddy paint surrounds to windows! Is it going to get the Phil Mac full Monty weathering treatment? G Can't, not my pics !! It ain't going to be clean when it's finished. Cheers, Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted February 25, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2020 First stage of weathering done, dark wash applied over the grilles, door-shuts, kicksteps, etc. In fact, any part of the body that isn't flat ! Then an old toothbrush was used to scrub over the roof and down the sides in vertical strokes, before a sponge was used in the same way. When it had dried, the windows were then covered with Maskol. The missing bodyside electric flashes have since been added, then the body and chassis had a coat of matt varnish. Cheers, Phil. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted February 27, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 27, 2020 Same pic as above, but with the varnish coat added. Hopefully there's a difference !! Cheers, Phil. 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 3, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 3, 2020 Airbrush weathering done, and loco back in one piece. I didn't want this Peak as dirty as the other one I've done, more 'careworn' than 'filthy' !! Cheers, Phil. 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 3 hours ago, Phil Mc said: Airbrush weathering done, and loco back in one piece. I didn't want this Peak as dirty as the other one I've done, more 'careworn' than 'filthy' !! Cheers, Phil. Dirty 45.....love it... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 7, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 7, 2020 (edited) Another day, another box of retro stock go start at.....! Since the pic, they've all had an initial coat of matt varnish. Cheers, Phil. Edited March 7, 2020 by Phil Mc 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 8, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 8, 2020 Done the weathering powder element on one of the Claytigers, just to see how it went. Same colours used as on the PRA's. Also did the cement tank. Powders on & varnished, before the airbrush element is undertaken. Cheers, Phil. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 13, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 13, 2020 Finished the first half of this batch. Cheers, Phil. 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 15, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2020 After running some trains at Dads on Friday afternoon, the flashing rear light on the Bachmann mk2 INTERCITY rake finally got the better of me. It may be ok on DCC (I don't know, I've not tried it !), but on DC, unless the train is running at cartoon speeds, the light is virtually invisible !! Anyway, the BSO came home with me and I removed the Red flashing LED from the circuit board, replacing it with a LED on wires. The 'flasher' circuit is built into the board, so it was just a standard LED I had in my stock. The clear plastic light guide from the original LED to the tail lamp was removed, the new wires were fed through the housing and the new LED was glued in place, behind where the tail lamp sits. As the new LED is a white light, it was painted with the clear Red paint used on the rear lights of model vehicles. The coach was tested and put back together. The result is a much brighter flashing light, that's visible at normal speeds. ( & it doesn't do my head in every time I run them !! ) No pics, as it's difficult to photograph a flashing light !! Cheers, Phil. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 15, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2020 Speaking of coaches, I'm still having the issue with Tornado's support coach ! As suggested, I tried holding the button in on the controller, instead of using a short press of the buttons. For F.0 the directional lights stay on for the duration the button is pressed. For F.1 the internal lights stay on for the duration the button is pressed. For F.2 the under chassis lights still don't work at all !! Any more ideas ??!! Cheers, Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 3 hours ago, Phil Mc said: Speaking of coaches, I'm still having the issue with Tornado's support coach ! As suggested, I tried holding the button in on the controller, instead of using a short press of the buttons. For F.0 the directional lights stay on for the duration the button is pressed. For F.1 the internal lights stay on for the duration the button is pressed. For F.2 the under chassis lights still don't work at all !! Any more ideas ??!! Cheers, Phil. For support coach ....have you checked the back Emf pnp values devide value and insert resiter 3 times value inline with a thyrister module connected to igbt bridge rectified power modulation....hope this helps G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 15, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2020 39 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said: For support coach ....have you checked the back Emf pnp values devide value and insert resiter 3 times value inline with a thyrister module connected to igbt bridge rectified power modulation....hope this helps G Yep, done that, made no difference !! Cheers, Phil. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted March 15, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2020 4 hours ago, Phil Mc said: Speaking of coaches, I'm still having the issue with Tornado's support coach ! As suggested, I tried holding the button in on the controller, instead of using a short press of the buttons. For F.0 the directional lights stay on for the duration the button is pressed. For F.1 the internal lights stay on for the duration the button is pressed. For F.2 the under chassis lights still don't work at all !! Any more ideas ??!! Cheers, Phil. That sounds like a issue with the operation of the handset. i.e. the buttons are configured as non-latching - certainly for F0/F1 Which DCC system is it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 15, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2020 1 hour ago, newbryford said: That sounds like a issue with the operation of the handset. i.e. the buttons are configured as non-latching - certainly for F0/F1 Which DCC system is it? The one with a handset that looks like this ! If F0 and F1 are given short presses they 'latch' on as expected. Long presses cause them to only stay on while pressed. It's F2 having no affect, whether I give it a short or long press, that's causing the issue ! Cheers, Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted March 15, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2020 I'll try and have a play with our Multimaus at work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 15, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2020 50 minutes ago, newbryford said: I'll try and have a play with our Multimaus at work. Hi Mick, Any help would be much appreciated !! I don't want the coach to live on the yard of test track I use at home with the Hornby select controller, but that's the only thing that seems to make the lights work as I want them to !! Cheers, Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 18, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) Got the batch of PolyBulks finished, using the same methods as with the ClayTigers. In the pics I was working from, these seemed to be in a generally grotty condition, so that's what I've gone for. Hopefully the factory weathered one doesn't stand out too much ! Cheers, Phil. Edited March 18, 2020 by Phil Mc 8 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Horse Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 They look spot on to me 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 19, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2020 So I guess I better figure out what I'm gonna do with these !! TBH I've got plans for 3 of them. This pic I took at Torquay many years ago takes care of 2 of them. 31450 & 31460. Having Railfreight Grey 31209 for haulage out of Plymouth, sorts out another one. So there's just one other Toffee Apple to decide, but I've got a sneaky suspicion that I took this pic at Newton Abbot, once I've checked that is the location, that could clinch it as 31121 ! If I do stick with those identities, none of the models quite match the prototype, so there could be some shuffling of headlights, roof-pods, side grilles, etc, to get them right ! Cheers, Phil. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 21, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 21, 2020 Progress so far- 31450. Body stripped down. Headlight added (ones removed from what was 31452) Lamp brackets moved to prototype position, and old mounting holes filled. ETH recess cut in corner. Fan cowl removed. 31460. Body stripped down. Headlights removed and holes filled. Roof mounted aerial removed. Original style side grilles removed, including the centre bar which is part of the body moulding. (refurbished style grilles from what will be 31121 will be fitted) 31209. Body stripped down. Headlights removed and holes filled. Roof mounted aerial removed. 31121. Body stripped down. Fan cowl removed. Grilles from 31452 grafted into bodyside. 'L' shape cab handrails removed. New handrails fitted. Lamp brackets moved to prototype position, and old mounting holes filled. Footstep recess's in centre plate filled. They'll all get a wash & scrub tonight, before hopefully getting a coat of primer tomorrow !! Cheers, Phil. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 24, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2020 Fill, sand, prime, repeat..... Got them to a stage ready for paint. Cheers, Phil. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 24, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2020 Made a rookie mistake !! After spraying the Yellow, I realised I'd forgotten to sand down the paint lines on the cabsides on 31209. I knew it was ok for the 3 Blue ones, as the split will be in the same place, but the wrap-around Yellow on that loco meant the lines would show, which I know would annoy me !! To show what I mean, this is the cabside as originally painted- After rubbing down- And re-sprayed- Cheers, Phil. 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Your modeling out put is phenomenal...I struggle to finish doing dishes G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted March 24, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2020 Just now, bradfordbuffer said: Your modeling out put is phenomenal...I struggle to finish doing dishes G Or the outside windows................ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted March 24, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2020 38 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said: Your modeling out put is phenomenal...I struggle to finish doing dishes G Been at home since Wednesday, that helps get models finished !! Cheers, Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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