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'Cambrian Street'


BobM
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Hi....

I am presuming that using brass wire around the lever would be preferable to piano wire, as this will not flex as much....?

 

Regards always

Bob

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Hi....

Just a message to say that I have been having an initial look and then an attempt at attaching the thicker wire to the lever frame, then attaching this wire and the point control wire together within the choc block connector.....not being overly confident or practical it took a while to get the correct methodology but this was eventually achieved ....however I have now encountered problems concerning the 'throw' of the points.....the lever not being fully over and the tube buckling....... so will have to get my head around what I have done to mess up things.....

 

I am also looking into the possibility of utilising slide switches (or some other method) instead of levers....maybe this is an easier way forward for me....?

 

I am still teetering on leaving the point control to one side for a while as this seems to be taking all my time, thoughts and energies rather than the modelling aspects, which is really why I got back into the hobby....

 

Hope all are well and safe....

Regards always....

Bob

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  • RMweb Gold

You need an Omega loop Bob.

You can fit it either as the final connection to the point or you can use it to connect the lever to the tube wire. Or you can do it with a sort of Z wire. I'm cooking right now I'll draw something for you and post it later.

Regards Lez.

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H Guys.....

 

Just an update......

The point blades move freely when just attached to the block connector and moved by hand, as soon as I've placed the lever frame onto the block connector and screw down the wires together, it all goes askew.....

Wonder whether to research a method to adapt these choc blocks into something other than the lever frame....?

 

Regards always

Bob

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  • RMweb Gold

You have too much travel in the lever frame Bob. You can reduce it either by moving the wire in the lever up to a higher hole or soak up the movement by using an Omega loop.

Regards Lez.

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Hi....

Thanks Lez...I'll initially move to the higher hole in the lever.....which is a task in itself I find...!

Cheers,

regards always...

Bob

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  • RMweb Gold

Pull the lever to the rear first so that the bottom of the lever is in the forward position Bob. Then open the bend a bit in the drive wire, thread the drive wire through the hole then close up the bend with pliers. If you find that it's still too much movement and the wire in the lever is to high now what you need to do is put a Z bend into the drive wire that will have the effect of adding an Omega loop and lower the drive wire down to the same plane as the tube wire.

Regards Lez.

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Here you go Bob. If you do it like this it will work a treat.

attachicon.gifWire in tube 3.jpg

Regards Lez.

 

Hi.....

Cheers Lez...as always this is greatly appreciated.....

 

You'll be pleased to hear that I have inserted all the lever wires, one of which is attached to a choc block containing a control wire, this  appears to be throwing the point concerned neatly and firmly into place without any 'distress' in the control wire........

 

I could not and would not have persevered at all to this stage without the support, guidance, encouragement and above all patience, from yourself Lez and all the kind guys on here...!

Will keep you advised of how I progress.... :locomotive:

 

Regards as always....

Bob

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Evening guys.....

Hope we're all okay....?

Just a quick update on 'progress tonight'.....

 

Have spent and hour or so connecting up another two point control wires through the choc block to the upper hole in the levers in the frame.

 

This seems to be okay and the points operated by these wire appear to be being thrown comfortably, moving freely on locking in position...for me that is both amazing and satisfying.....

This is what it looks like.....

 

post-20610-0-47270800-1523999150_thumb.jpg

 

When coming to the fourth and final control wire to be attached to the I found that the curvature of the tube that I had initially planned was in fact too tight to comfortably thread its way to the lever, so I shall be using a couple of right angle cranks to take this neatly to the frame.....

I have also found (although this won't come as a revelation to you knowledgeable guys on here) that even slight bends or tweaking of a tube can make one heck of a difference, either positive or negative to the operation of the point.....

 

Will update when I have installed the additional cranks and coupled up to the lever frame....

With grateful thanks to all....

 

Regards always...

Bob

Edited by BobM
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  • RMweb Gold

Very nice Bob. Very well done mate.

See I told you again and again you could do it and there you have it. 

I never had any doubt....although I did think at one point I was gonna have to come up there and kick you in the backside to make you do it..but hey we got you there in the end eh. What's next then a bouncing signal perhaps? I can talk you though that working with a lever and wire in the tube as well mate and it isn't that hard at all. :smoke:

Regards Lez. 

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Hi...

Glad Lez you didn't have to resort to a trip up here to serve notice on me.. :sungum:

 

Signals......!! No pressure then..?

Thanks again for the assistance, with all practical work it seems that once something 'clicks' in my head then I can do it...but it is 'getting there' that the 'journey'.....

 

I have made contact with Stationmaster here on rmweb about signalling the layout, in terms of where these should be placed, I hope to reestablish contact with him at a later stage about this...

 

Thrown signals would be good.... they would have to be of course GWR / BR Western Region 'droopy, downy' types..not those strange...'sticky uppy pointy things' ! :sungum:

 

 

or....... use this method perhaps...?

post-20610-0-78598800-1524045174.jpg

Cheers

Bob

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  • RMweb Gold

No probs with either up or down type signals Bob.

They all work the same way in that they bounce when pulled off and don't when pulled back on. It's all done with weights and swinging arms made of wire anyway. You will need wire, brass tube, copper clad, a crank for each arm and some brass strip, oh yes and something to form a weight out of. Then it's just a case of being a bit of a clever sod. It's not an original mechanism I got it from a modeling mag years ago.

Regards Lez. 

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Hi All....

I have to workout where to put the signals on the layout....

all the lines are basically bi-directional.....

 

post-20610-0-66754400-1524081074.jpg

This is the basic plan.. it does not show the exact proportions of what is on the boards just the track flow.......

 

Regards always....

Bob

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Hi....

I had thought that the signalling aspect would be something I look at as the station /layout develops for the not too distant future and I will breakdown the plan and post in sections for ease of planning which type required and where they'll be located......

 

Also for the record....as this mornings strong sunshine awoke me before the alarm,  even though it's my day off, (awaiting service guy to arrive too this morning) thought I'd complete last nights unfinished task on the layout...and we now have four working point levers...! :sungum:

 

Have a (peaceful / safe ) great day guys....

 

Regards always.....

Bob

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Evening all....

Hope all have at least some time to enjoy the gloriously sunny, spring weather, for me an afternoon the at the station absolutely beautiful eh....?

 

Here for the record is the state of play after completing the final 'hook up' of the fourth control wire to the lever.....

 

 

post-20610-0-27758700-1524168016_thumb.jpg

 

Regards always

Bob

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  • RMweb Gold

Looking very good Bob.

I'm very proud of you mate. It was hard going at times but it all came good in the end. Sing out when you want more levers as I have quite a few you can have mate. As for signals I'm going away to Turkey on the 1st for two weeks but when I get back I'll get a couple of signal kits and do a step by step photo tutorial on how to make them work and bounce with wire in the tube. 

Regards Lez.Z. 

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Hi Lez...

Once again many thanks for your patience, kindness and assistance throughout....I can make steady progress onto other sections of the layout with a greater degree of confidence now that I know I can adapt to suit the particular area ...and not be too daunted .....

 

Have a great break...

As the lighter nights lengthen, priorities may switch to outdoor work....but there again if the summer reverts to its usual 'European Monsoon' pattern...we may  all be indoors...!

 

Regards always....

Bob

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Hi 

Here is the basic plan of the station will highlight the areas of work done later...all incoming roads and platforms are bi-directional so seek advice on appropriate signalling or 'pointers' as to where this info could be researched....

 

post-20610-0-44581200-1524234234.jpg

 

Regards always

Bob

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Hi Guys...

My initial thought for trains approaching the station on the twin bi-directional lines...would be for signals on a gantry or mounted on the road bridge....?

The platform signaling requirements would also be for bi-directional operation....

 

Having no knowledge of operational requirements other than basic control signalling at all, so open to suggestions and comments...

 

 

Regards always...

Bob

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Evening All....

Thought you'd like to see the 'new arrival' today.....?

I am happy with this Oxford resign product.....pre assembled and painted.....it will fit in nicely I believe  with the intended western region station.....may not be prototypical to the purists but for a standard modeller such as myself it'll be fine....

 

Perhaps further 'down the line' I may strip off the prepainted colours and repaint...but not now....

 

Comments guys please.....

 

post-20610-0-51943100-1524253264_thumb.jpg

 

post-20610-0-30577500-1524253347_thumb.jpg

 

post-20610-0-82719100-1524253406_thumb.jpg

 

post-20610-0-78302400-1524253450_thumb.jpg

 

Regards always....

Bob

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