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'Cambrian Street'


BobM
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Evening guys....

Hope your Easter has been peaceful and relaxing......

 

Something 'strange' happened this evening...... :dontknow: How did this happen?

 

I have managed to place another two tube in wire point control on to the layout without any major issues.......

 

so that makes four in total and completes the contro that can be accommodated on the lever frame........

 

This is what it looks like......may not be 'perfect' but seems to work with decent throw to all points....the point to the extreme top is controlled by the wire fitting as it is designed to do, within the central hole in the tie bar....there was enough 'give' once the pins had been removed to slip the bent wire underneath and 'jiggle' this into position......rather than through the 'pip' as per the others.....this may be the exception rather than the rule though...?

 

I hope to fit the wires to the levels on the frame within the next couple of evenings all being well.....?

 

Then once happy intend to 'fix' the tubing into place and remove the holding screws when set.....I do have UHU glue....would this be okay or is it a bit messy...?Would super glue (Gorilla Glue) be better as it sets more quickly...?

 

attachicon.gif102_1301.JPG

 

Regards always...

Bob

 

 

It might be useful if you have a hot glue gun for keeping the tubing in place ?

 

Grahame

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Hi...

Any recommendations for a glue gun guys....have looked on the web and there's a vast range of glue guns to choose from, from one's which may not melt butter to others that'll liquefy steel!

 

Don't want the wrong one and I get a China Syndrome moment whereby it'll  be burning its way to the Earth's core...

 

Thanks as always for the constructive and friendly comments....

 

Regards always....

Bob

Edited by BobM
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Hi...

Any recommendations for a glue gun guys....have looked on the web and there's a vast range of glue guns to choose from, from one's which may not melt butter to others that'll liquefy steel!

 

Don't want the wrong one and I get a China Syndrome moment whereby it'll  be burning its way to the Earth's core...

 

Thanks as always for the constructive and friendly comments....

 

Regards always....

Bob

I got mine from Wicks or B & Q, cant remember but it's fine, it's the quality of the Glue Sticks that makes the difference, some cheap ones seem to hard to melt, If you like the sticks that come with the Gun, i.e. Wicks or B & Q then stick with them.

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I got mine from Wicks or B & Q, cant remember but it's fine, it's the quality of the Glue Sticks that makes the difference, some cheap ones seem to hard to melt, If you like the sticks that come with the Gun, i.e. Wicks or B & Q then stick with them.

 

Cheers Andy,

No pun intended there then.... If I 'stick with it' !   :sungum:

 

Bob

Edited by BobM
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Hi Bob.

Got mine from Argos years ago it's a black and decker and I get my sticks from B&Q or my local hardware shop if I run low.

Regards Lez. 

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Evenin' guys....

Here we go again....another question and another posting of my attempts to continue ahead with the installation of Mercontrol, you know that I have had problems with it, all of which have mostly been of my own making, but with your assistance and encouragement I have persevered with it and will do so until completion.....

 

Tonights question concerns attaching the control wire to the lever frame and levers........

 

How would the control wire be best firmly threaded into the hole within the lever.....I have found that the wire will 'spring out' quite readily, however I have attached the wire by placing a slight bend in it as it leaves the tube then a right angle turn to slot the end into the central hole...the lever frame is temporarily fixed down too and holding the wire in place...with movement of the lever thrwing the point as shown here,,,,,I may not be expressing myself very well here....

 

I'd appreciate comments as always...

 

Here's the method I've attached the wire...will it remain in position....?

 

post-20610-0-67970000-1522786183_thumb.jpg

 

The lever frame in its (temporary for testing) intended position....

 

post-20610-0-91856300-1522786361_thumb.jpg

 

Movement (of sorts)....!

 

 

Regards always....

Bob

Edited by BobM
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Hi....

With the wire / lever image in mind shown above, would another right angle (at the tip of the wire) to make a 'Z' shape hold the wire more securely....?

 

Regards always...

Bob

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Hi Bob.

I do it like this

post-1531-0-47428200-1522801301_thumb.jpg

post-1531-0-00667100-1522802151_thumb.jpg

 

Not a very clear pic but basically I use a very small chocolate block connector with all the plastic removed and a piece of 0.7mm straight brass wire shaped like a square capital J with 2 right angle bends and the middle bit 1.5 times the thickness of the lever so I have a bit of adjustment if needed. This sits in a bit of plastic U channel that keeps everything in line and separated and is completely over engineered as usual. You'll also note that I use curtain wire as I go underneath the baseboard and use an actuator and drive pin as I mentioned before and posted pics of. I do this because curtain wire is £1.99 for 10 meters and far more cost effective than using mercontrol stuff it's all based on the bowden cable principle after all.

Regards Lez.    

Edited by lezz01
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Morning all....

 

Thanks Lez.....

 

The wire on my test lever has 'popped out' (as expected),  so a securer method of fixing will most certainly be required......I don't know whether I could ever emulate the superbly engineered method shown here, even getting my 'flat'  brain around adapting to my situation at the moment is making my head 'hurt'...!   :scratchhead:

 

Will  study the images and my current set up...

 

.........however having a quick think..... am I correct in thinking.......the thicker brass wire is there for a firmer 'push and pull' from the lever .....

 

and that the in tube point wire and the lever frame 'J' shaped-wire (with a 'z' shaped bend in it - where it sits in the connector)) are held together within the  (all plastic stripped off) brass block connector and the white tubing which is held in position and shown entering at the back of the box is the point control wire / conduit..?

 

The brass connectors appear to be sitting in small channels and is there for guidance and movement control..... is this a cut down terminal block connector box?

 

Have a good one....

 

Regards always....

Bob

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Hi Bob.

I use soft iron wire to run in the tube from the same place I get the curtain wire. The choc connector is just really a convenient way of connecting the soft iron wire to the brass wire which is, as you suspected there because it is stronger than the soft iron wire. The channel is just a guide and is an evergreen product and the curtain wire is held in place with 4mm cable clips also from the same source as the rest. The only railway specific items I use are the lever frame and omega loops the rest all comes from my local "tat" shop or model shop which is very R/C orientated. 

Regards Lez.     

Edited by lezz01
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Hi Lez and all.....

Please don't laugh, smile yes and excuse this poor representation.....this is how I see the idea behind the adaptation from the images how to use the block connectors / brass wire to lever and incoming point control wire..........

 

post-20610-0-64248200-1522875255_thumb.png

 

Am I on 'the correct track or derailed'...you mention a double right angle bend somewhere though...is this to match up with the screws in the brass connector?

 

like this (blue line)

post-20610-0-19391100-1522877307_thumb.png

 

 

Regards always...

Bob

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Hi...

Please say if I am compounding the error in my thinking......

the wire in tube point control comes into the connector and screwed down with the lever brass wire, the whole connector moving gently in the plastic channel....?

 

 

 

Bob

post-20610-0-58871300-1522879697_thumb.png

Edited by BobM
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That's the idea Bob. The 2 right angles come from bending the brass wire around one jaw of a set of needle nose pliers so that the bottom of the "J" is square. That way the wire is less likely to come out of the lever.

Regards Lez. 

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Hi Lez....and all   

(Sorry for the very poor representation here but did it whilst it was in my head)

 

Is the point control wire also treated in the same manner with a  double right angle bend such as this within the block connector.....I'd have to get my head around how I would achieve this...myself being more comfortable with a spade, shovel, fork and hand trowel than a pair of pliers...!

 

Or am I incorrect in the positioning of the 'Z' in relation in how it sits within the block...?

 

post-20610-0-46791800-1522964110_thumb.jpg

 

Regards always

 

Bob

Edited by BobM
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Bob mate.

You just thread both the wires into the block and tighten the screws up. You don't need to put any bends in them.

The only bend you need is in the brass wire where it goes through the hole in the lever. You are just adding unnecessary complications.

Make the "J" hook out of brass wire. Hook it on to the lever make it so it overlaps the tube wire by a bit over the length of the chocolate block.

Slide the block on to it up towards the lever and then slide it back so the tube wire is now in the block with the brass wire and then tighten the two screws and that's it mate job done.

Regards Lez. 

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Hi...

Sorry Lez...... I totally messed up in my head the very kind advice you gave......mixing up 'right angle bends' for a  simple '180' in the brass wire.....what am I like eh...?  :scratchhead:

I am sorry..

 

Regards always have a great weekend...

Bob

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Hi Bob any progress?

Regards Lez.

Hi Lez.....

Sadly have been a bit off colour the past week...(nothing too serious just a reoccurring condition).....so not been able to get down to 'Cambrian 'matters'.....but will post with next installment hopefully soon, may be further ballasting and weathering of such....

Hope also to get down to 'brass wire' installation when I've been down to the local model shop....

 

Cheers and regards always...

Bob

Edited by BobM
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Hi Lez...

No nothing too serious at all matey, just an IBS condition I've had for some 40-50 years that just messes up up my whole system for a while once it gets triggered...makes me feel rough for a while (days or weeks at a time) before settling down...

 

Regards always....

 

Bob

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Hi Bob. 

I feel your pain brother I too suffer from IBS the worse thing about it is that I have no idea what triggers it. Most thinking says its stress related but it can start off even when I'm feeling NO stress at all so go figure.

Regards Lez. 

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Hi All....

Having both dual home appointments (one for the morning / one for the afternoon) cancelled at short notice  :ireful: ! Managed to salvage  something from the wreckage of a 'wasted' day off by having a walk to the local model shop, where I obtained further items for Cambrian Street.....couldn't get 0.7mm brass wire but did purchase 0.7mm piano wire.....which I hope will be okay a substitute for the brass...?

 

May go online to buy brass wire though....

 

Keep safe guys....

Regards always....

Bob

Edited by BobM
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