JeffP Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 What did you have done? I bought a 9F from a well-known but little used company, (because the models were sold on and are no longer produced), not long ago off ebay. Also got the wheels at just over half price......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 What did you have done? I bought a 9F from a well-known but little used company, (because the models were sold on and are no longer produced), not long ago off ebay. Also got the wheels at just over half price......... Thanks for that Jeff........makes me feel much better!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Mr Grumpy Jeff like several on here collects kits and never builds But he is right about the cost good things come to those who wait. Great build so far. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 Mr Grumpy Jeff like several on here collects kits and never builds But he is right about the cost good things come to those who wait. Great build so far. Pete Thanks Pete. PS: I believe you 3D print certain loco engines? Any thoughts on a decent 7mm thumper engine? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 PM Sent Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 One day, I'll build something. Or get fed up of the whole thing and flood ebay with models...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 One day, I'll build something. Or get fed up of the whole thing and flood ebay with models...... But wouldn't that cause a stock market crash???? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 The frames are supplied as large castings with the inner springs to be soldered in place. I wanted to add a little more detail to the bogie frames as shown below…… In the kit, the brake adjusters are only represented by 0.7 wire, also the bolt holding the brake linkage assembly is quite visible on the real bogie. The small lugs should be a T shape, but they are flat in the kit. (Shown next to my scalpel blade) I bought some 1mm hex rod and cut a slot in the back, then soldered to 0.5mm wire to represent the adjusters. (These are my first attempts) I wanted to open out the brake linkage at each end of the bogie, as it is cast solid (Sorry for the blurred image)Also, the large return springs don't sit horizontaly if left filled in. and finally, I drilled out the large lifting eyes. Assembly was straight forward, although I managed to break drill bit deep in the casting, and had to carve a fair chunk out to retrieve the remnants, then back filled with melted pewter. As the chassis block was away having the gearboxes and motors fitted, I made a simple wooden block to hold the frames for soldering together. This needs to be done carefully as there are no pockets to take the front and rear frames. I worried they may not be very strong but once soldered up were fine. I made the pipe work brackets from annealed 0.3mm wire. Tried the fit to the chassis, but brake shoes and linkages to fit...... I will add some pics of the gear box/motor assembly later. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 oooooh........Look what arrived today I only ordered it Monday, excellent service from David as usual! I'm not allowed to play with it until the 47 is complete, by order of the boss. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Have you got wheels? and the (IIRC) optional working leaf-spring kit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Have you got wheels? and the (IIRC) optional working leaf-spring kit?Got the wheels....cast leaf springs and roller bearing axle boxes.I had the 'working' leaf springs on my riveted 16t wagon. They went together really well, but I'm happy with the cast variety! AsI said earlier, I have been forbidden to open the pack until my 47 is complete! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Good for Mrs Grumpy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hello Mr Grumpy, Wow this build is becoming epic. I really like the weathered bogie photos above, how did you achieve the finish as it looks like the real thing? Many thanks for sharing this with us and keep up the good work you'll be finished soon and then you can move onto the Dogfish Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 Hello Mr Grumpy, Wow this build is becoming epic. I really like the weathered bogie photos above, how did you achieve the finish as it looks like the real thing? Many thanks for sharing this with us and keep up the good work you'll be finished soon and then you can move onto the Dogfish Cheers Lee Hi Lee, The bogie frames were sprayed with Halfords etching primer, followed by their satin black. Using the air brush I put on a light coat of Railmatch enamel frame dirt. I then dry brushed Humbrol metalcote gun metal on to the brake linkages. Lastly, a dry brush of lightened frame dirt here and there. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 The representation of the brake linkage springs look superb. Were these supplied in the kit or did you make them up yourself. Either way very impressive Despite the vast array and range of acrylic colours that have exploded on to the scene over recent years - nothing really can replicate or surpass the old Humbrol metalcoat favourite. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Hi Lee, The bogie frames were sprayed with Halfords etching primer, followed by their satin black. Using the air brush I put on a light coat of Railmatch enamel frame dirt. I then dry brushed Humbrol metalcote gun metal on to the brake linkages. Lastly, a dry brush of lightened frame dirt here and there. Thank you for that. It is a very effective method... one I shall be attempting myself. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 The representation of the brake linkage springs look superb. Were these supplied in the kit or did you make them up yourself. Either way very impressive Despite the vast array and range of acrylic colours that have exploded on to the scene over recent years - nothing really can replicate or surpass the old Humbrol metalcoat favourite. The horizontal brake linkage springs are lost wax castings, supplied with the kit. I hollowed out the linkages themselves and it makes a huge difference to their appearance. The tiny bolts (MO. 8X6) at the bottom of the linkage at each corner, are from Prime Miniatures. The brake adjusters above the horizontal springs are 1mm hex rod, with a slot cut in the back and soldered on to 0.5mm wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 I can take no credit for the motor/gear box installation. This was all done by Steph Dale model products. The axles have been split, and a conductor wire soldered from the wheel rim to the axle joint, making the outer edges of the axles live. The bearings are insulated from the frames. The bearings then act as the pickups. Steph describes it far more eloquently than me: Washers of double-sided copper clad are soldered to the frames, using the bearings as a guide. The frame and common face of the copper clad are then drilled with a spot cutter or countersink. When the bearing is then fitted it's 'live' to the outer face of the copper clad, but the enlarged/countersunk hole on the frame side means that the bearing is 'dead' to the frames. Epoxy is then run in to the enlarged holes to provide additional support to the bearings and run wire from the front face of the copper clad, which forms the pick-up. View from underneath (Keeper plate removed) Complete assembly from above Within bogie frame (Brake shoes/linkages to be added) 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 26, 2015 Author Share Posted December 26, 2015 Never thought I would say it: Thank goodness for Downton Abbey!! Despite my right thumb refusing to work correctly, I managed to stealthily slip away for a couple of hours and make a start on painting the wheels and adding brake rigging. The centre wheels have a LOT of sideways play, presumably to get the loco round 'corners' so I couldn't fit the brake shoes as close to the wheels as I would like. With the bogie frames dropped on, they will hardly notice. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 I'm probably being utterly thick here, in which case, I apologise, but I'm finding it hard to understand how the double sided copperclad attaches to the side frames of the inner bogie, holds the bearings CLEAR of said inner bogie, yet is somehow electrically isolated? Any help gratefully received......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 26, 2015 Author Share Posted December 26, 2015 I'm probably being utterly thick here, in which case, I apologise, but I'm finding it hard to understand how the double sided copperclad attaches to the side frames of the inner bogie, holds the bearings CLEAR of said inner bogie, yet is somehow electrically isolated? Any help gratefully received......... The bearing holes in the bogie frame and rear of the copper clad are enlarged, so there is no contact between the bearing and frame. The bearing is soldered to the outside part of the copper clad only. The enlarged hole around the bearing is then filled with epoxy resin to provide strength and further insulation. Also, the outer axles, which have the gear wheel fitted are split twice, just in board of each bearing. The centre axle is split in the middle. It took me a while to figure it out too!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 OK, thanks, got that part, but how, then, does he get the bearings exactly where they would have been if the holes weren't enlarged? Especially on a diesel with no coupling rods? And ensures that each pair is exactly in line so as not to have axles not at 90 deg to the frames? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Good morning Jeff, After building the bogies on my thumper and to be honest, struggling to make reliable pick ups, I decided my next loco would have plungers. Steph advised me to try split axles and what followed were several conversations similar to your thoughts. When Steph was discussing the spec for my chassis, I could have bought the necessary parts from him and built myself. However, I know my limitations! Take a look at Steph's explanation on post 43. He explains how the paxolin was soldered to the frame using the bearing to centre the assembly. The chassis frame and paxolin were then drilled and tapered from behind. This left the bearing a tight fit on the outer face of the copper clad, with a slightly larger hole in the chassis frame and rear face of the copper clad paxolin. The gap was then filled with resin for strength and further insulation. I can't show any pics, as the wheels are fitted and I can't get in for a good photo. I'm still debating how to deal with pickups on my 9f! One solution I have seen is to install a receiver and batteries in the loco along with the decoder and fit a transmitter to the DCC hand set. I think you can get around 4 hours run with the rechargeable batteries. See link below. Not yet avaliable over here as far as I know. http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/deadrailsystem.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Ah, right, got it now, thanks, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Progress is painfully slow, but I have managed to complete one side of one bogie!! (Since taking pics completed whole bogie) Hopefully I will test run the bogies over the weekend before installing in to my 47. Also, managed to sneak a look at the dogfish instructions. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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