Mr Grumpy’s Workbench: MOK 9F occasional updates

[JeffP]

Can your camera cope with altered sized pictures? mine,  a Lumix TZ40, offers 18MP, 12MP, 5MP, and 1MP, this last for e-mail and posting online?

 

I tend to take any shots I want to send anyone, or post online, on a low setting, saves messing later. It's actually quite easy to take TWO shots if you want, one on the low setting and one high.

 

Certainly easier than re-sizing.

[Mr Grumpy]

Crikey! I think it took me a week just filing the windows and fan apperatures!

I found I needed to leave a fair distance for the centre wheel brake shoes as there is quite a bit of fore and aft movement in the wheels.

It is really important when filing the Windows that you check constantly with the etched frames AND glazing material for fit. If you try to squeeze the glazing in, it will irreversibly crease. I know, it cost me £16.00 for a replacement set!! I have mostly cut my own glazing though as I don't like the DJH offering. However, I have used theirs temporarily in a few places.

If you haven't bought your couplings, CPL are probably the best.

From your pics, it looks like your cabs were a better fit than mine, which took hours of filing and faffing to get a really good join.

It will be good to see another DJH 47 being built, there must be loads out there, but very little in terms of anyone prepared to share their experience of the build.

[Mr Grumpy]

Can your camera cope with altered sized pictures? mine,  a Lumix TZ40, offers 18MP, 12MP, 5MP, and 1MP, this last for e-mail and posting online?

 

I tend to take any shots I want to send anyone, or post online, on a low setting, saves messing later. It's actually quite easy to take TWO shots if you want, one on the low setting and one high.

 

Certainly easier than re-sizing.

Hi Jeff,

 

I don't have that facility on my camera or phone. I also don't have any software on the laptop, so I just email the photo to myself and it automatically resizes, if a little too much!

[Mr Grumpy]

....my wife had pointed out, our camera does have the resize facility...but my iPhone doesn't!!

[o gauge nut]

Crikey! I think it took me a week just filing the windows and fan apperatures!

I found I needed to leave a fair distance for the centre wheel brake shoes as there is quite a bit of fore and aft movement in the wheels.

It is really important when filing the Windows that you check constantly with the etched frames AND glazing material for fit. If you try to squeeze the glazing in, it will irreversibly crease. I know, it cost me £16.00 for a replacement set!! I have mostly cut my own glazing though as I don't like the DJH offering. However, I have used theirs temporarily in a few places.

If you haven't bought your couplings, CPL are probably the best.

From your pics, it looks like your cabs were a better fit than mine, which took hours of filing and faffing to get a really good join.

It will be good to see another DJH 47 being built, there must be loads out there, but very little in terms of anyone prepared to share their experience of the build.

hi thanks for the tips on the windows i have not started them yet but the shape looks realy good  on them 

dont know yet wether to solder them in place or use glue looks very awkward to solder  and in a place were its going to realy show .

i know i said just over a week but have been off work for the last week and been working day and night to get this far and the kit itself is quit an old one so the dies were better then less worn so i was told but still lots of fileing and rubbing down  but on the upside the white metal castings are very crisp.

also bought a class 37 kit of the same person new  not touched  witch he purchased the same time. ordered the wheels motors ect last week and ended up buying a skytrex class 37 friday of ebay that i will repaint detail and add sound if its any good  if not i will hang on to the 37 kit 

[Mr Grumpy]

Brian Daniels gave me lots of advice on soldering the window frames. 

What I done was to tin the rear of the frames with 145 degree solder, then 70 degree solder.

I then soldered from the front and where I could from inside the frame with 70 degree solder with the iron at around 240 degrees. I squeezed some damp kitchen roll in each soldered window frame before soldering the neighbouring one to prevent it falling off!

Looking at your pics, I think your louvres may be a tad low. If they are, the long riveted etch won't fit at the correct height. The hinges should be tight into the cut out on the moulding for the header tank cover. I had to cut out a fair bit from the top of the provided louvre cut out on the body. (See first page)

[Mr Grumpy]

[hi test attachment

this is the beauty that im trying to create 

I really like the livery on your chosen loco.

 

Here's my little baby....

 

[o gauge nut]

br blue s  still looks good to me  its what i remember  when i was a kid

forgot to add wiper pick ups so i have got to sort them tonight , i have been thinking all day best way to do it  as i whant all twelve wheels to pick up power .

i have a few sets of djh wiper sets to play with . run the chassis in on the rolling road with two wires from controller and forgot all about pick ups  and think i have made a couple more mistakes in my hurry  .

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi 0 gauge nut,

I'm glad I don't have to bother with pickups on my bogies. I hate fiddling around with them and they always end up looking like some sort of scaffolding accident!

I'm about to permanently bolt the bogies under my 47 and as you have obviously done the same very recently, you may be able to give me some help.

If you look at the attached drawing, part number P/N111532 looks a tight fit in to the bracket. However, mine are very loose, how were yours? Also, did you solder the top and bottom washers to the bracket?

I asked Brian Daniels, it has been some time since he built his, but didn't recall them being as loose as the parts supplied with mine.

 

Thanks, Richard

[o gauge nut]

hi richard i have not yet  fixed mine yet to the body only placed in position

but on mine they are a perfect fit as there are two top hat bushes  1 male fitted to the body as per yours and one female that fits from under the chassis and the slot in to each other perfect .

just planing on using the screw provided plus a washer and a bit of grease between them. 

yes soldered in place.

hope this helps

 

terry 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thanks Terry,

Any chance you could add a photo of the parts?

Thanks,

Richard

[JeffP]

Might be interesting to compare the sizes of the parts in question, and the holes they are supposed to fit in, assuming both of you have vernier/micrometer/drills?

[Mr Grumpy]

Might be interesting to compare the sizes of the parts in question, and the holes they are supposed to fit in, assuming both of you have vernier/micrometer/drills?

I have a ruler and a pencil ! :-)

[Mr Grumpy]

I enquired with DJH about the assembly of the bogie supports and they kindly advised:

 

 

Solder and tin part number 111532 to E7 and then use low melt solder to solder in to the bulkhead centrally. Then fit parts E10 and 111525’’

 

Still none the wiser as to whether the loose fit in to the bulkhead is acceptable, but if soldered up will not make any difference as long as everything is centred correctly. I will get them painted and permanently installed this weekend. Hoping to get financial sign off from the boss to order the decoder soon! :-)

Edited January 27, 2016 by Mr Grumpy

[o gauge nut]

hi sorry its taken so long but plenty of work this week 

i have taken a few pics so you might see what i mean  mine fit perfect and been giving the bogies a blast with the body just resting on to weight them down  and runs very well considering only one motor still thinking of adding a second though 

heres pics 

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi Terry,

Thanks for the photos. Mine are now soldered in to the White metal bulkhead. It was the hole that the brass top hat fitted in to this that seems too large. As the parts are now firmly in place, it should never come out of centre in use. The hollow brass top hat type bearing that sits in to the top of the bogie has been slightly adapted on my loco to allow space for the cardan shafts.

How's progress on yours coming along?

Edited January 27, 2016 by Mr Grumpy

[o gauge nut]

i hope you can make out by the pics still using the phone 

as you can see i have soldered in from the bottom of the chassis a top hat bush female  pic 2

and the male is atached to the body  pic 1

and as you can see in pic 3 a perfect fit just needs screw and washer on the bottom and always just a smear of greece for nice smooth action on bends 

regards terry.

 

ps got the skytrex class 37 today of ebay just going to test it now dose not look to bad. might start a thread on it as i plan to repaint  detail add sound and weather it ..

[Mr Grumpy]

I have the SWD decoder in my 37. It sounds great !

[o gauge nut]

Hi Terry,

Thanks for the photos. Mine are now soldered in to the White metal bulkhead. It was the hole that the brass top hat fitted in to this that seems too large. As the parts are now firmly in place, it should never come out of centre in use. The hollow brass top hat type bearing that sits in to the top of the bogie has been slightly adapted on my loco to allow space for the cardan shafts.

How's progress on yours coming along?

not much progress this week finished of bogies and have been doing bits and bobs  and testing loco over points ect before i go any further  i have painted the chasiss and bogies  next job finish and paint tanks  then start back with the body  made a couple of errors with roof detail  thats rushing again .

[o gauge nut]

I have the SWD decoder in my 37. It sounds great !

what 37 do you have   djh kit?

[Mr Grumpy]

what 37 do you have   djh kit?

No, 

Heljan. But will be selling all my Heljan locos later on as replacing with kits.

 

BTW heres a couple of pics of the bearing in the bulkhead. You can see the gap around the bearing. Doesn't matter now as all soldered in.

 

Note the top hat has been countersunk to accommodate a countersunk screw due to having to use an almost flat screw head above the cardan shaft.

 

 

[o gauge nut]

i have a djh class 37 kit comp with wheels motors ect un started if you want to do a deal on a Heljan loco

[Mr Grumpy]

I thought I would add a photo of the inner workings of the bogies.

The split axles, negating pickups can be seen. Also the very restricted clearance between the cardan shaft and bogie mounting point. In fact, the shaft must be removed to enable the bogie mounting screw to be fitted.

Steph Dale has done a beautiful job on the bogies!

 

 

 

 

 

[Mr Grumpy]

i have a djh class 37 kit comp with wheels motors ect un started if you want to do a deal on a Heljan loco

Hi terry,

I just don't know if I could face all that tedious filing again!! Don't get me wrong, I think the DJH kits are great but I'm holding out for an MMP kit to become available. I am very patient and may well die of old age first...........................

 

Post it on here, I'm sure it will fly!

 

if you fancy a Heljan 37, they are re-introducing their 37 with headcode box. I prefer the split head code box variety myself.

Edited January 28, 2016 by Mr Grumpy

[JeffP]

There's an MMP 47 on a certain auction site as of last night...no, not mine.