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Mr Grumpy’s Workbench: MOK 9F occasional updates


Mr Grumpy
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Thanks Lee,

A small problem with this kit is that the bogie centres are a few mm out. Once the 2nd bogie is complete, I can get the tanks/battery's bolted on and can work out any adjustment required to the bogie centres.

I have loved building this kit! Some of the filing is a tad tedious, but the loco shape is just so perfect ( to me at least) and has a great presence! I think the JLTRT 47 will have a lot to beat!

But, horses for courses, I love working with metal and a soldering iron but there is room for all types of kit. (I love Slaters wagons) I desperately want to build a 33/1. The JLTRT kit looks magnificent but I keep pleading and nagging David Parkins (MMP) to bring his kit out. I would buy it in a heartbeat!

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..... Happy new year all!!

I'm after some feedback on the Xuron scissor cutters for etched brass if possible? I had some wonderful cutters for years so don't know who made them.

I read somewhere somebody had a problem with them bending the etch sheet, it may have been how they were using them or possibly the scissors themselves?

http://www.affinitymodels.co.uk/p138513/XURCON-PROFESSIONAL-PHOTO-ETCH-CUTTERS-%23910ET/b0-4752-4752

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..... Happy new year all!!

I'm after some feedback on the Xuron scissor cutters for etched brass if possible? I had some wonderful cutters for years so don't know who made them.

I read somewhere somebody had a problem with them bending the etch sheet, it may have been how they were using them or possibly the scissors themselves?

http://www.affinitymodels.co.uk/p138513/XURCON-PROFESSIONAL-PHOTO-ETCH-CUTTERS-%23910ET/b0-4752-4752

Hi

 

I have a pair. To be honest I tend to use a scalpel as I don't find it easy to get the scissor points in between the fret and the parts without distortion though that could be due to most of the etched kits I build are 2mm scale.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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I have used Xuron cutters for several years for removing etched parts with great success. As with all tools some care is required to get the best from them, I find that cutting at the tip of the blades produces the best results.

 

I have been following your build of this model, I have recently purchased a Class 55 from DJH and this build has provided me with a great deal of help and guidance with their kits.

 

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

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I have used Xuron cutters for several years for removing etched parts with great success. As with all tools some care is required to get the best from them, I find that cutting at the tip of the blades produces the best results.

I have been following your build of this model, I have recently purchased a Class 55 from DJH and this build has provided me with a great deal of help and guidance with their kits.

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

I'm sure you will really enjoy the build!

The Deltic differs in that it's in two halves instead of cabs and body.

Look forward to watching your build!

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If we are talking scissors to cut parts off the etched sheet, or trim tabs off them, try embroidery scissors.

 

David Parkin himself put me onto that.

I'm now the proud owner of a pair of embroidery scissors....

 

Now to start up a cross stitch thread! (See what I done there?!!)

Edited by Mr Grumpy
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi 0 gauge nut (love the name!)

Are you soldering or glueing? Also are you aware of the incorrect bogie centres? Easy to adjust though.

 

Play time has been heavily restricted of late, so progress is a tad glacial!

 

Still, the bogies are complete and look really nice. Steph's work with the gearboxes etc had paid off and they run very smoothly. Slowest speed is a little fast, but once I have the decoder wired in, I guess I can experiment with the start voltage.

I'm really looking forward to bolting the bogies under the body and giving her a really good run!

I need to re-size the photo, but I will try to post later.

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.....Here are some pics of the bogies. As previously mentioned, they run beautifully. However, Steph had chemically blackened the wheels, and I did remove this from the treads. Only a few hours work left now:

Fit out second cab and glaze, install SWD decoder and Cliff Williams speaker, bolt on the tanks and bogies. (Sorry for the Heath Robinson wiring lash up, Steph has wired them perfectly, just keeping it all out of the way.

I asked DJH to send me a PDF of their class 31 instructions a while back, looks very nice but that will have to wait until I have built my MMP Dogfish and MOK 9F!! (But if the MMP class 33/1 comes first...........)

 

post-19951-0-82636500-1453585056.jpeg

 

post-19951-0-11839200-1453585078.jpeg

 

post-19951-0-14174200-1453585100.jpeg

 

I will post an update once the work is complete.

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Hi Grumps,

 

Well it's nice to see an update and those bogies look superb!!

 

Just out of interest, how did you remove the blackening from the wheel treads???

 

Looking forward to your next update where the loco body is fitted :D

 

Cheers

Lee

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Hi Lee,

I Just used a fibreglass brush. It only took around 1/4 hour to do all 12 wheels.

Also, I soldered all the brake gear on with the wheels instu, so following extremely careful washing down afterwards, the wheels still picked up a little rust. All are now fine, no shorts with the shoes and wheels so happy days!

I think this is going to be quite a powerful loco......

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hi yes see what you mean just offered up the fuel tanks and bogie  catches 

how did you adjust them  if you dont mind me asking .

i am soldering the majority but some of the small detail has been glued with epoxy resin .

 

if you dont mind i will post a few images of my progress  its no were near you standard but i am quiet new to kit building and realy having some fun trying to work out how every thing goes together  and without you thread i think i would have given up .

 

i only intend to power one bogie  and going down the sound root and was wandering if a v4.0 decoder with two speaker would be ok  or would i still need the xl decoder.

sorry for so many questions in one go lol

terry

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In terms of soldering, this is my first attempt at a white metal/ pewter kit, apart from a DJH 1366 pannier in the 80's!

 

For paint, I used cellulose from an aerosol, but in future would definitely use my airbrush for greater control. I like this model so much, I may strip the paint and have it professionally sprayed later this year.

 

As for the bogie centres.....

If your bogies are fouling the tank assembly, is this one end only? If so, perhaps your tanks are not quite where they should be, or the correct way round, so double check your measurements. If your tanks are in the correct position, you definitely will not need to move your bogies inward. If you need to, I achieved this by soldering the cabs to the body and instead of bolting the bogie mountings flush to the rear of the body, fixed them against the bolts holding the cab rear etch, bought some spare bolts and 'sandwiched' the bogie mounting between the bolts, so as to move it inward aprox 2mm. I think the photo explains it better than me!  :)  

post-19951-0-59865700-1453643073.jpeg

 

Considering the colossal weight of the loco, personaly I think two motors is the way to go. I recon each bogie weighs more than a 4mm class 47! :O

 

I spoke to ABC gears, and they were confident their motor bogie would be capable of moving the 47 and a few coaches using the smaller decoder. It is a really nice piece of kit.

 

post-19951-0-85569200-1453643602.png

 

This was going to be my preferred option. I had a chat with Steph Dale about split axles to negate the use of pickups, and the bogies you see above were his creation. In cost terms, for two bogies I think it was a little more expensive, but I have two powered bogies. I'm hoping my 47 will pull 7 Heljan coaches.

 

I could have possibly got away with using the smaller decoder, but I sought advice and for a more powerful sound and the 'stay alive' feature will use the XL and Clif Williams 35mm speaker and possibly his large square one too.

 

Looking forward to seeing your 47!

Edited by Mr Grumpy
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Wheels blackened with gun blue still pickup power, apparently.

Hi Jeff,

I think mine probably would too. 

Unfortunately, as I soldered the brake gear with the wheels in place, they picked up some rust and paint on the treads. In the process of cleaning I took the decision to remove the black finish from the treads as some was removed in the cleaning process anyway.

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hi again could not get camera to upload so i will use my phone so pics will not be brilliant .

this is were i am so far just finished  the bogies   still need to paint brakes and rigging then i can screw to chassis 

still all the small detail to add to fuel tanks  and paint 

started work on the cab detail and buffer beams today and hoping to get the finished today and prima  painted

i started the kit just over a week ago[attachment and put lots of hours in and shes coming on nicely 

post-28282-0-65079600-1453651091_thumb.jpg

post-28282-0-00108200-1453651305_thumb.jpg

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