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The Oak Hill Branch - LBSCR / SECR 1905ish - New layout starts on page 129


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Thanks James,

 

I wouldn't call it a dismal failure at all. Look at that wonderful village you posted earlier. It oozes character, and the story you have built up around it is something I could never hope to emulate, I'm just not that good at it.

 

Gary

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As a first try in brass, you've done great in a few days. Keep on trying and you'll want to do the lot in brass with ease. Think about having a cutout for the underside of the boiler with the curve as far as you can get it. The motor will get in the way, so stop short of this and paint it Matt black. The splashers and springs will help disguise this anyway.

I don't suppose you've come across micromodels http://micromodels-london-ltd.uk/railway.html, they're a very small scale, and I see the price has gone up tremendously, but when I was a kid I loved making these up into small locos from a flat sheet of card. They're interesting for giving you a basis to form a 3D model from a sheet.

Perhaps I should declare that I'm not an interested party as to agency or anything for them.

Edited by Northroader
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I don't suppose you've come across micromodels http://micromodels-london-ltd.uk/railway.html, they're a very small scale, and I see the price has gone up tremendously, but when I was a kid I loved making these up into small locos from a flat sheet of card. They're interesting for giving you a basis to form a 3D model from a sheet.

I have some of these which my father built in the 1950's - and some unbuilt ones!!  There were also ship models as well as railway subjects.  As far as i can tell they are to 2mm~1ft scale (the railway ones, that is)

 

Jim

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Thanks Northroader,

 

Thanks for your comments they are much appreciated.

 

The reason for the straight sides on the boiler is that the motor is right behind them, there is no room to curve it at all and as the motor runs the full length of the engine it would be very visible if it wasn't there. I will paint it black and hope it looks OK. Otherwise I will have to come up with an excuse for it being there. I have taken an image that shows the motor and hopefully you can see what I mean.

 

post-22762-0-52950000-1483484098_thumb.jpg

 

If you have any ideas on how to get rid of the "skirts" without it looking terrible with how much of the motor will show I would love to hear them. Although as I view this as more of a learning experience than a scale model I don't think it is the end of the world.

 

I had heard of micromodels in as much as I had seen kits for sale on eBay I had never considered them for this but I may see if I can get some.

 

Gary

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Been doing some more on the Manning Wardle. Need to pop into the model shop and get some filler before I can do anything else now.

 

I trialled it on its wheels for the first time this morning, what do you think??

 

post-22762-0-98390200-1483617220_thumb.jpg

 

post-22762-0-95599800-1483617218_thumb.jpg

 

post-22762-0-04041600-1483617220_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Gary

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Been doing some more on the Manning Wardle. Need to pop into the model shop and get some filler before I can do anything else now.

 

I trialled it on its wheels for the first time this morning, what do you think??

 

attachicon.gif2017-01-05 09.39.38.jpg

 

attachicon.gif2017-01-05 09.39.14.jpg

 

attachicon.gif2017-01-05 09.39.28.jpg

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Gary

 

That is looking good.

 

Charm on wheels, that's what that is.

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Gary,

Excellent for a first try and from scratch.  I was going to say use some filler and what are you going to do for the smokebox door but you have already seen to both of those. Interesting build and good to see how big the motor is as maybe one day I might attack the Cambrian one.

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With more work done, it's looking great. What I was on about, the curve under of the boiler is done to a very limited degree for as you say, the motor is in the way. Here's one I've done fitting an On16.5 body on a Nellie chassis. The wrapper is nicked behind the smokebox and in front of the firebox, these areas staying vertical, then incurved in the barrel area until it gets in the way of the motor, then trimmed back. You can just make out the bottom of the motor. I'm having second thoughts on my micromodel suggestion, what you spend for what you get is questionable and you've managed quite well with what you're doing. So instead here's a link to a boiler fittings site:http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/101647-has-any-one-ever-made-there-own-loco-chimney/post-26540-0-20501800-1483627690.jpg

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Thanks guys.

 

Comments have as always been very much appreciated.

 

for anyone that may be interested the loco is only 8mm longer than the Hornby Peckett, and let's be honest the fact that I haven't got one of those is why I wanted to build this.

 

Northroader,

 

I have just read through the tread you linked to it is very interesting and I think I will have a try at turning some basic boiler fittings in the hear future.

 

With this and the need to turn down wheels on my old Tri-ang stock, it runs fine on Oak Hill but Hailsham is laid with code 75, I'm thinking it may be worth investing in a mini lathe. This one has been sitting in my eBay watch list for some time, does it look like it would be up to the job?? or does anyone have any recommendations on what would be?? I do own a 3D printer as well but I enjoy doing jobs like this sometimes.

 

Also looking at what you have done with the bottom of the boiler there I have looked at the bottom of the Manning Wardle, however the is only about 1mm gap between the skirts and the coil on the motor so I don't think I could get away with having a curve at all and with how much of the motor would be showing I think it would be better as is.

 

Gary

Edited by BlueLightning
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Guest Midland Mole

Been doing some more on the Manning Wardle. Need to pop into the model shop and get some filler before I can do anything else now.

 

I trialled it on its wheels for the first time this morning, what do you think??

 

attachicon.gif2017-01-05 09.39.38.jpg

 

attachicon.gif2017-01-05 09.39.14.jpg

 

attachicon.gif2017-01-05 09.39.28.jpg

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Gary

 

That looks fantastic! I am loving seeing this come together. :)

 

It gives the Peckett a run for it's money on the cute front ;)

 

- Alex

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Thanks guys.

 

Comments have as always been very much appreciated.

 

for anyone that may be interested the loco is only 8mm longer than the Hornby Peckett, and let's be honest the fact that I haven't got one of those is why I wanted to build this.

 

Northroader,

 

I have just read through the tread you linked to it is very interesting and I think I will have a try at turning some basic boiler fittings in the hear future.

 

With this and the need to turn down wheels on my old Tri-ang stock, it runs fine on Oak Hill but Hailsham is laid with code 75, I'm thinking it may be worth investing in a mini lathe. This one has been sitting in my eBay watch list for some time, does it look like it would be up to the job?? or does anyone have any recommendations on what would be?? I do own a 3D printer as well but I enjoy doing jobs like this sometimes.

 

Also looking at what you have done with the bottom of the boiler there I have looked at the bottom of the Manning Wardle, however the is only about 1mm gap between the skirts and the coil on the motor so I don't think I could get away with having a curve at all and with how much of the motor would be showing I think it would be better as is.

 

Gary

 

Gary,

 

The mini lathe looks Ok (looks like a Chinese knock off of a very expensive German one) and should be suitable for wheel turning

 

Kev

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So I was going to save this for my usual Tuesday update but I wanted to ask you all a question about it.

 

Yesterday I popped into the model shop for some filler and came out with 2 new Dapol North British Railway 4 plank wagons. Once I saw them there was no way that I couldn't.

 

These will be used as PO wagons for the coal merchant in Oak Hill, so before I ask you any questions let's see the wagons!

 

Firstly a pic in the box:

post-22762-0-22102000-1483820988_thumb.jpg

 

and out of it:

post-22762-0-17562900-1483820989_thumb.jpg

 

and the other side showing the end door:

post-22762-0-12078300-1483820990_thumb.jpg

 

and a final picture showing both wagons sandwiched between my Slater's wagon and one of the older wagons I was going to use for my PO's, which shows you how small they are:

post-22762-0-20364300-1483820991_thumb.jpg

 

SO the question is regarding livery, as I said above I am going to make these PO wagons, and I have noticed that the PO liveries that Oxford does these wagons is are red, would this be standard for PO wagons around 1905 or would there be another colour they were likely to be? although this is a made up PO I want it to be quite typical for the era so what would be my best bet?

 

Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed,

 

Gary

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Hi Gary,

 

Just catching up on this thread - I missed your SECR P class, it looks great fully painted and lined.  The 2-4-0T terrier is a good idea - did you find the transfers and plates for it?  Also, how do you find the Precision paints compare to Humbrols, apart from the colour selection?

 

Will follow with interest.

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Hi James,

 

Thanks for your comment, the transfers for the Terrier and all my other stock will be home made, I actually plan on starting design work for the Improved Engine Green stock tomorrow with the Umber stock to follow.

 

As for number plates they will come from Mike Waldron at EB Models http://www.mjwsjw.co.uk/ he has supplied the ones I have used so far on Hailsham and Stepney, he also supplied the name transfers for Hailsham, all at reasonable prices and good delivery times. The signal kits I have for slotted post signals have also come from him but these haven't been built yet! (usual disclaimer, no connection, etc)

 

I like the Phoenix Precision paints, I had used both Humbrol acrylics and enamels before and have found the Phoenix very nice paints to use and I have used the with the air brush and regular brushes, you get a slightly glossier finish when you brush it on.

 

Gary

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So I was going to save this for my usual Tuesday update but I wanted to ask you all a question about it.

 

Yesterday I popped into the model shop for some filler and came out with 2 new Dapol North British Railway 4 plank wagons. Once I saw them there was no way that I couldn't.

 

These will be used as PO wagons for the coal merchant in Oak Hill, so before I ask you any questions let's see the wagons!

 

Firstly a pic in the box:

attachicon.gifoxford1.jpg

 

and out of it:

attachicon.gifoxford2.jpg

 

and the other side showing the end door:

attachicon.gifoxford3.jpg

 

and a final picture showing both wagons sandwiched between my Slater's wagon and one of the older wagons I was going to use for my PO's, which shows you how small they are:

attachicon.gifoxford4.jpg

 

SO the question is regarding livery, as I said above I am going to make these PO wagons, and I have noticed that the PO liveries that Oxford does these wagons is are red, would this be standard for PO wagons around 1905 or would there be another colour they were likely to be? although this is a made up PO I want it to be quite typical for the era so what would be my best bet?

 

Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed,

 

Gary

 

Very smart that NB wagon, though I have yet to work out an excuse for a NB open to be in Norfolk pre-pooling.

 

Anecdotal rather than scientific, but most POs seem to be black, with grey or brown quite popular and red coming third, with other colours fairly rare.

 

I plumped for Brown for my fictitious coal merchant.  Red, though, is certainly a reasonable choice.

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I wouldn't say PO wagons had a "standard" colour, it was down to the owners preference, with an eye on the cost of the paint. Thus red oxide was popular, a very brownish red, but if the owner fancied a colour nearer red such as your Meakins wagon, usually termed London red, more red pigment could be added, which pushed the cost up. The popular colours related to lead based paints, red oxide, black, or various shades of grey, which all tended to darken with age. Any of these were quite common, but owners could go for other colours, blue, green, yellow even, but these were rarer.

The end door of the wagon gives it a particularly Scottish look, but you could quite simply say a Scottish builder had made it for your owner, as this did happen.

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The end door of the wagon gives it a particularly Scottish look, but you could quite simply say a Scottish builder had made it for your owner, as this did happen.

This style of heavy outside framed end door was used by both the CR and NB and was copied by outside builders.  The representation of the hinges on the model, however, is incorrect as the ring went right round the top end cross member to act as the hinge.

 

Jim

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Thanks Northroader,

 

I will go and look for a red oxide colour as I can't imagine my small coal merchant shelling out lots of unnecessary money for a paint job.

 

Gary

 

Gary,

One of the humbrol reds will do, but I cannot at this moment lay my hands on a colour chart or the tin I bought.  I searched the Humbrol site and its search engine is useless.  (When was grey primer ever red?)  Mikkel recommended it for GWR red wagons.  I think I may have a red oxide or similar in a rattle can from Halfords.

 

I did not know the oxford NB wagon was done in PO livery, I will have to search it out.  I am still working on an excuse for the wagon to be in Wales.

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I did not know the oxford NB wagon was done in PO livery, I will have to search it out.  I am still working on an excuse for the wagon to be in Wales.

 

There were 3 PO liveries in the model shop as well as the NBR ones, 2 of them were Welsh as well!!

 

Gary

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While researching to see if anything the ocal model shop has can be used for red oxide I have come across an old RMWeb thread (this post) which suggests Humbrol 70 Brick Red can be used.

 

Can someone confirm or deny this as I have some of that in stock.

 

Gary

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