Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) <SNIPPED> I popped into the model shop, and there were some cheap locos, which visually is for good reason!! A Bachmann E4: 2018-04-06 20.25.57.jpg a Hornby E2 with extended tanks: 2018-04-06 20.27.30.jpg and while they don't look great, that is not a problem since they need stripping anyway, they were also less than £20 each, and are DCC fitted!!! The E2 stripped of paint shows its brass tanks, does anyone know what the origin of these could be?? 2018-04-07 17.03.50.jpg <SNIPPED> Hi Gary. Extremey good luck there! That beats my E4, from Ebay, weathered by TMC, DCC chip fitted, boxed, paperwork, unopened detail pack....but alas a bit more thatn £20.00. (Only arrived today, so no pics yet!) This joins the Hornby "Brighton Works" Terier in the queuw for works attention to fettle them...Kadee couplings (No. 18) already added to the NEM pocket fitted E4!) As regards the E2 Extended tanks conversion....possibly a Crownline kit? They did make rather a lot of good conversion kits.....a pity they are no longer easily got hold of! ;( I have done the Hornby Jinty to MR open cab 1F Crownline kit... And have the LSWR M7 Kit to apply to a Tri-ang Hornby model in due course. Good to hear that the engineers at the works (read Medics at the Hospital!) have diagnosed your running problems! Edited April 10, 2018 by Sarahagain 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 10, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2018 Thanks!! Skarloey's final livery is currently undecided, I plan on the 009 layout being an independent line, The scheme I am basing it on was independent, although being a standard gauge line would probably have been run by the LBSC and possibly later purchased. Sarah, I would love to see your weathered E4 when you have some pictures. Mine will be getting screw links at some point, I am still working out the details for these as the coation of the body fixing screws means I cannot really cut away the chassis like I did on the Terrier. I have had someone else suggest Crownline as the source of the extended tank E2, so I think we have the answer there. The engineers at the works did a great job as always!! Gary 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted April 10, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) The engineers at the works did a great job as always!! Did they give you superheating and Joy valve motion to help things along a bit Gary? Edited April 10, 2018 by Annie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 10, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2018 If only Annie!! I clearly have the space to fit a superheating!!!! but alas, this was not my local works, and they were much more interested in taking buts out to study how I work! (or don't in this case!!) Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 (edited) Well Gary.... You and your Pre-grouping thing! Here are some of the Pre-group items I now have, Bachmann LBSC E4 (TMC Weathered...I am not too sure about the "water" leaking from the safety valve though...) Bachmann Collectors Club Edition "GC Wagons". GC, yes, CL (Cheshire Lines Comittee), yes, but the Coal wagon? (L&NER!)... Dapol Terrier "Stepney". (EDIT: Following discusions, and the illustrations of Stepney in the two issues of Model Rail, and just now online I have been modiying the loco....see new post below!) (There are also two Hornby E2 Tank Locos....! Not pictured) EDITED. to add the Hornby LBSCR Brake Van! (I forgot that one!) Not really Pre-grouping....BR Brighton Works Shunter (Hornby version...) (EDIT: Following discusions, and the illustrations of the same Brighton Works Loco, with full BR number, in the earlier issue of Model Rail, and just now online I have been modiying the loco....see new post below!) Well, you did ask for some photos! Edited April 13, 2018 by Sarahagain 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 11, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 11, 2018 Looking good Sarah!! I like the weathering on the E4, other than the water from the safety valves it looks exactly how I would expect it to in real life! Gary 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted April 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2018 That LNER registered PO wagon in the GCR collector wagons pack is a bit disappointing. Could be a violation under the Trade Descriptions Act ...... mutter mutter grumble....... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted April 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2018 That LNER registered PO wagon in the GCR collector wagons pack is a bit disappointing. Could be a violation under the Trade Descriptions Act ...... mutter mutter grumble....... Well, I don't know that the Great Central/Cheshire Lines ever had any wagons quite like those either. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 I suppose the Hornby 2721 Pannier Tank in "Great Western" lettered wartime black (WW1...) is also Pre Grouping..... I've got one of those too! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 12, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 12, 2018 I suppose it does! (I have one of them as well!) Gary 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 (edited) Dapol and Hornby OO Gauge Terriers… "Fenchurch" No.672 in a "Brighton Works" livery. (2012) This loco has been restored to a later A1 format... http://www.brightonmodelworld.com/wp-content/uploads/brightonworks_small.jpg The Dapol (& now Hornby) model is a hybrid, with A1X sandboxes on the chassis, and an A1 length smokebox (some models have a spacer ring pre-fitted at the factory to lengthen the smokebox to A1X length.). The models also have A1 (pre-re-build) splasher mounted sandboxes, the "vents" on the tank tops (from the A1 condensing system I believe), but no "wings" on the front of the smokebox/sandboxes on the footplate. Most models seem to be fitted with the added Vacuum braking ejector pipe, which runs from the cab front to the smokebox, as well as a Westinghouse Air Brake pump on the eight hand cab side, but only have one brake pipe fitted, which looks more like a Vacuum brake pipe than an Air Brake pipe… With the locos when new is a bag of parts, which can, with some modification to the base model, be used to convert the locos to other varieties. There is a pair of pipes, which are the condensing system pipes, which run from the top of the tank fronts into the sides of the smokebox (Copper coloured on Boxhill, see the recent Model Rail article). There is a plain (not Salter Safety Valves) boiler dome, and a set of Ross Pop type safety valves. I, would assume these are for one of the "sold on" locos... There is a spacer ring to lengthen the smokebox to A1X length. This fits onto the smokebox front, after this has been carefully removed (the glue bond can be strong!) from the boiler. The smokebox front mounting flange is long enough to go through the ring and still locate into the boiler. There is a set of coal rails, with a coal load moulded in. This is the simplest part to fit, as it locates into the top of the coal bunker Fitting the A1X smokebox extension ring. The smokebox front can be pretty well glued in place. It needs careful persuasion to part the glue bond. There is a small location pin on the bottom of the smokebox front, which locates into a slot in the bottom of the boiler. When the smokebox front finally surrenders, it may well be found easier to fit the extension ring over the location flange of the smokebox front with the handrail removed. The location pin on the smokebox front locates into the cut out in the extension ring. The two recesses are designed to clear the handrail knobs, but may prove too shallow. I glued the extension ring to the smokebox front, and when the glue had set hard, drilled out the handrail knob locations with a small drill, before gluing the handrail back in place. (The first attempt I made, without drilling the holes out a bit, the handrail knobs pushed the extension ring away from the smokebox front!) It will be noted that there is now no positive location pin to align the smokebox front onto the boiler! This is where care and attention will be needed when gluing the smokebox front to the boiler, to get the hinge vertical… If you are going to remove the splasher sandboxes, do not glue the smokebox front into place yet! Speaking of “vertical”, the lower handle on the smokebox door should point vertically Down, as this is the catch handle. The model comes with this handle at the “twenty-five to “ position! I carefully carved the handle away from the bottom, meeting with a cut across the top at the centre boss. I then re-glued the removed section in the correct place! I have removed the weight from the boiler (held in by a screw from underneath) and made a hole from the boiler to the motor area by chain drilling around the inside of the boiler from the smokebox end. This makes an access to the boiler from the motor area when the smokebox front is re-attached. I have not yet reattached the smokebox front; it is at present just slotted into place. I have yet to fit a DCC chip, and may need access! Removing the A1 splasher mounted sandboxes. The front splasher sandboxes need to be removed. This is not so easy, as the earlier Model Rail article found. I worked out that there are a couple of places where it is not so dangerous to cut with a fine razor saw. Cut 1 is across the diagonal from the end of the splasher, to the side of the smokebox saddle, horizontally to form the base line. Cut 2 is again a diagonal cut, but vertically downwards to meet cut 1, across the corner of the sandbox top. Cut 3 is across the remaining sandbox part, just above the top of the splasher, until just before the smokebox. The top flap thus made can be prised up with a small screwdriver (or similar), and then cut off with a sharp modelling knife. The remaining sections of sandbox then need to be carefully trimmed away, hopefully leaving the splasher side intact, and a squared off vertical flat smokebox saddle. There should be a rectangular hole. About half is in the footplate, and half in the front part of the splasher top. The first repair section I applied was a piece of plastic card, running from the rear of the splasher hole, to the position of the front of the smokebox extension ring, where it meets the smokebox front (This being plugged loosely into place to get the measurement.) The height of this plastic section should be the same as the smokebox saddle. The real smokebox saddle has a distinct concave curve to it. This could be ignored, or fiddly job made to get it right (I do not think it worth while, as the splasher and clack valve pipes would also need attention, as both are joined to the boiler!) I used round files, and put a groove into the vertical smokebox saddle side…better than nothing? Patching the hole!... The hole in the footplate is patched from the inside with a piece of plastic card. Making sure that it does not obstruct the wheels… The hole now left, in the splasher, is patched with a pre-curved section of plastic card. If required, careful application of filler may fill any gaps… I was lucky, and managed to retain the splasher lining. Check photos, but most A1X locos did not retain the tank top vents, in front of the tank filler caps. These have locating pegs that protude into the tank tank tops inside the body. In my case, using a flat item, such as the handle of a craft knife or screwdriver, I simply pushed them out from inside, breaking the glue bond. The holes were patched with plastic card squares on the inside, and plastic rod in the hole, with glue as filler. You may find some plastic sprue or rod of the correct diameter, which could be glued into the holes, and then trimmed off flush with the tank tops. Or make small circular "blanks" to attach over the holes, like the real thing! The prominent lubricator bowls for the cylinders have been represented with brass handrail knobs, inserted into holes drilled into the smokebox saddle. I will be fitting these to the other (BR) Terrier, which represents KESR No. 3; BR 32670, which had an A1X boiler fitted by the K&ESR, but retained the tank vents, and splasher mounted sandboxes. (It does have a unique bunker extension though!) On these A1 sandboxes, the lubricators are mounted on the front, nearest the smokebox. On A1s the lubricators are in the same place, on the smokebox wing plates. Vacuum, Air or both forms of braking? From photos, Stepney has had the Westinghouse air braking system removed. . (By BR I believe...) http://www.semgonlin...eam/a1x_07.html This loco is preserved in A1X (Re-built) condition, with extension "coal rails" on the bunker, but in Stroudley livery. The Westinghouse Air Brake system and pump has been removed, therefore this loco should only have vacuum pipes on the buffer beams, and the Vacuum ejector pipe on the Left Hand side of the boiler. Dapol and Hornby models seem to all come with this pipe fitted. It is the plastic pipe that runs from the front of the cab to the smokebox. The vacuum brake control would be mounted on the rear of the cab front where the pipe joins the cab. The Westinghouse pump also seems to be a standard fitting, on the right hand cab side. On Vacuum only braked locos, this needs removing. (It is best to see a photo of the real version of your loco to check!) This is held on by two pins in two holes, and can be carefully prised to break the glue bond. The holes then need plugging. Colour matching touch up paint may be a small problem…. Brighton Works, No. 32635 Brighton Works, No. 32635, in the September 1962 photo (See the earlier Model Rail article, and on the web.), was dual braked, and retained the Westinghouse pump. From.... There is a photo of the Westinghouse pump side on this site...which is of more Brighton interest! http://thebrightonmotivepowerdepots.yolasite.com/brighton-loco-men.php This loco also has both Air and Vacuum brake hoses on each buffer beam. The standard fitted brake pipes most closely, in my opinion, resemble Vacuum brake pipes I fitted two new brake pipes from a batch of spare parts. I think they may be Dapol parts These, being smaller, make very good Air Brake pipes. Couplings and DC fitting. Kadee couplings, or NEM sockets, are still to be fitted. DCC is still to be fitted. Edited January 2, 2019 by Sarahagain 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) Just a note to let you all know that the "Terrier" piece above is now complete! Edited April 15, 2018 by Sarahagain 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 18, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 18, 2018 So while making transfers for James and his Daughter (See here) I have been spending money again!! (Kind of!) As you will have seen here I have got myself some of Linny's rather wonderful carriages. (what do you mean you haven't seen??? Go read it now, don't worry I will wait!) So now that we are al caught up with other important thread, I have also now recived all the required parts for the carriages, so I can start working on them. Which I am rather looking forward to, but I must tidy the workbench first!! The buffers and Oil Lamp's for this come from 5 and 9 models, so while I was placing this order I decided to get a local coal wagon as well, and I am rather looking forward to building this: and then some of you may remember that I once said this year was going to focus on goods stock! and here we are in the middle of April and I have the same amount of goods stock as I did at the start of the year!! I did however see some wagon sheets on eBay for a reasonable price, so I got a set of them: and just to buck the trend of doing nothing, I have finished off the narrow gauge well wagon, it had had tie-down loops added, made from brass wire, hand painted LBSC lettering, and numbering from a Roxey LBSC wagon transfer sheet: I am now rather happy with how this is looking, it will get weathered at some point in the future, but as none of my stock is weathered yet that is not too much of a priority. Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed, Gary 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted April 18, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 18, 2018 I do like those wagon sheets, - very nice items indeed. And that dumb buffered PO wagon is interesting too. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 18, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 18, 2018 Annie, Yes both are great items, I was going to make all my own wagon sheets, but these were only £5 (NZ$9.70) and I thought for that price it was worth the risk, they are better than anything I would have made due to the material they are printed on, it seems to be a fine fabric rather than paper. As for the dumb buffered wagon, I have always liked the primitive wagons, and this one being from the biggest coal factor in my home town I had to have it. Conveniently it is just about in period for both Oak Hill and Hailsham!! Gary 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted April 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 19, 2018 I like the NG well wagon a lot, might copy you there! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 19, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 19, 2018 Thanks Corbs! The new bogies and wheels make a huge difference to the model, it is now smoother better than most of my modern rolling stock. They are Cambrian C71 SR Diamond bogies, and Gibson 10.5mm disc wheels. Gary 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Niice bit in Railway Modeller May Issue... Nellie - new life for a Tri-ang classic. Fitting a Hornby Terrier chassis to a "Nellie" type 0-4-0 Tank loco body. (Rather a good conversion in my humble opinion! ) It has Westinghouse brakes! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 21, 2018 I have seen a few references to this article. I quite fancy having a read of it, but I haven't been able to pick up a copy of RM this month Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted April 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) Alex, That would be much appreciated, I have seen your post about the layout. A totally understandable decision, and as you say in your latest post, you don't have to be as restricted with stock for a fictional layout. I will be looking forward to seeing what you come up with! The planking on the well wagon, is that most wonderful of modelling materials. Coffee stirrers acquired some time ago which didn't cost anything, but give a nice look when used! Gary Edited April 21, 2018 by BlueLightning 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted May 7, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 7, 2018 So it seems Oak Hill has dropped of the first page!!! (Sir Eustace won't be happy!!) Good news! I haven't been idle! So I can correct this, in fact I have just gone through the pictures I have for this update, and decided to split it into 3 parts, and even so these are going to be quite large updates. I am going to save the best bit until last, I think I may have done something unseen in 4mm scale before!! So lets get going! I have had the Tri-ang clerestory's that that I have been collecting out: Along with some magazines! These conversions are actually quite easy! The ends and partitions were the hardest part, mainly because the Silhouette cutter has gone back to the office: but I think I did OK: A coat of Umber and it looses that Tri-ang look entirely: With the solebars painted black and the panels white, it is really starting to look like a Brighton carriage: Grab handles and glazing really finish off the look! With a roof added, the bogies and underframe from the original model have been reattached (I don't have enough detail pictures to make my own!), THe original buffers have been cut into ovals before being put back with screw link couplings and an air pipe: and a shot on Brighthelmstone with the original model for comparison: and I will leave you with a few extra pictures of the finished model: I will leave you for now, part 2 will be coming shortly! Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed, Gary 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sem34090 Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Surely you don't need all those clerestories... Eustace has only four Triang clerestories. He has been searching for many years, but can not afford them at £10 each. Make Eustace's wish for clerestories to bash come true by donating to the Eustace Clerestory Fund. Please give generously. Thank You. Nice conversion though! You have left my hooks thoroughly tentered for your 4mm first... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted May 7, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 7, 2018 Thanks Sir Eustace! You would be amazed how many clerestories I need!! That is the pile before I started work, it looks a lot smaller now! If anything I need more if I am to build everything I want out of them!! Gary 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted May 7, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 7, 2018 I confess to turning Triang clerestories into carriages for the imaginary D&SJR, including cutting up brake thirds to make a 7-compartment third* and a 4-wheel full brake. I found the more recent teak clerestories much easier to work than the Triang originals which are of a rather more brittle plastic. I made my cuts either side of the right-hand side of doors, carefully filing / sanding back to the line of the door. This hides the join better than having it mid-panel. *It was meant to be an 8-compartment third like a Great Western C10 but I miscounted... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sem34090 Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Still... Eustace still needs your help. With a donation of only two clerestories a month you can help to supply Eustace with enough workbench fodder to build one LBSCR coach. Please give generously. Thank you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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