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The point that the sentry’s Have overlooked, is that the chap photographing them questioning the photographer is getting a lens-full of whatever he wants!

 

PS: The Sargeant is a young Michael Palin, yes?

Edited by Nearholmer
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Waaaaay back in post 15563 Edwardian mentioned the dimensions of six coupled locomotives. Hopefully no one has given the Highland railways locos, other than the Jones goods lack of flange on the centre driver when built, although they were given a thin flange later as they dropped off the rails occasionally.

 

So from Peter Tatlow's revision of M.C.V.Allchin's history of highland locomotives we have.

 

Wheels. Spacing. Known As....... ...............................

3ft 7in, 6ft. + 6ft. Class R, Lochgorm tank, Stroudley tank, highland terrier.

5ft 3.5in, 5ft 6in + 7ft 9in. Class I, Big goods, Jones goods

5ft. 7ft 6in + 9ft. Class K, Barney

5ft 9in. 6ft. + 8ft 3in. Class A, Castle 1 and 2

6ft. 6ft 3in + 8ft 3in. Class A, Castle 3

5ft 2.5in. 6ft 4in + 7ft 10in. Class V, Scrap tank

5ft. 7ft 6in + 8ft. Class X, Banking tank

6ft. 6ft 3in + 8ft. River

5ft 3in. 6ft. + 6ft 6in. Superheated goods

6ft. 6ft 9in + 7ft 3in. Clan

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Amazing work, looks fantastic. Will all your buildings be a detiled inside?!

 

If I need to re-position/replace figures inside the main hall, it will be impossible without access from above, but I am still thinking on how to make all or part of the roof removable.  

 

Interior detail has been at least hinted at in a number of the houses in the village.  These are generally rear of scene and a little smaller than 4mm scale, but it seemed to me that in the future I might want to introduce the odd interior light and, of course, a light requires some semblance of an interior.

 

As we get towards the front of the layout with the full scale buildings (which includes the Drill Hall), more of an effort should, perhaps, be made. I would like to arrange matters so that, lit or unlit, soldiers drilling in the hall may be seen through the archway, hence I needed to do something to suggest the structure of the roof. 

 

Yes, stamping hobnail boots on a wooden floor might not be best, but the first drill hall ("TA Centre") I drilled in involved parading in a first floor hall with a wooden floor!

 

On the other hand, a sprung floor is good for dancing!

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post-25673-0-09919000-1547416127_thumb.jpg

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Could i suggest that you make the two slopes of the roof out of 1mm ply, with a couple of 'false gables' attached to it which slip inside the gables of the building.  They will keep the two slopes of the roof at the correct pitch and allow it to be slid off and on.  I did this with a goods shed roof on my first layout.  The ply is sufficiently stable to remain flat for many years.

 

Jim

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On the other hand, a sprung floor is good for dancing!

living in a converted chapel used in WW!! as a occasional dance venue all I can say sprung floors are a pain ....

 

still at least the bomb bounced of the roof  and blew up the corner opposite

 

(always fascinating researching your own home )

 

Nick

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You don't need hob-nailed boots to give a floor a good drubbing. I came across this just now purely by chance - honest.

(link clipped)

Gosh.......... 

Edited by Annie
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Yes, recycled images, I'm afraid, but we'd never be able to find them!  Easier to re-post.  I need to get mt village buildings mojo back.

 

Unfortunately, I think my printer is no longer capable of printing without streaks.  In the past this has been cured by cleaning the heads. That no longer seems to work.  Perhaps the heads are worn.  That is problematic until I can save up for a new printer. If it's not one thing, it's another!

 

Luckily I had enough texture printed for the Drill Hall (though I might come up short on the roof), and I think some village buildings may be attempted from "stock".

 

 

Could i suggest that you make the two slopes of the roof out of 1mm ply, with a couple of 'false gables' attached to it which slip inside the gables of the building.  They will keep the two slopes of the roof at the correct pitch and allow it to be slid off and on.  I did this with a goods shed roof on my first layout.  The ply is sufficiently stable to remain flat for many years.

 

Jim

 

I have ordered a sheet.  Actually I found in in 0.8mm and 1.5mm.  I plumped for 1.5mm as I would have used 1.5mm mount board (free thanks to the Barney picture framer).

 

The ply will obvious be stiffer.  The clerestory, sides and roof requiring clear material, is the complicating factor. 

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Yes, recycled images, I'm afraid, but we'd never be able to find them!  Easier to re-post.  I need to get mt village buildings mojo back.

 

Unfortunately, I think my printer is no longer capable of printing without streaks.  In the past this has been cured by cleaning the heads. That no longer seems to work.  Perhaps the heads are worn.  That is problematic until I can save up for a new printer. If it's not one thing, it's another!

 

Luckily I had enough texture printed for the Drill Hall (though I might come up short on the roof), and I think some village buildings may be attempted from "stock".

 

 

 

I have ordered a sheet.  Actually I found in in 0.8mm and 1.5mm.  I plumped for 1.5mm as I would have used 1.5mm mount board (free thanks to the Barney picture framer).

 

The ply will obvious be stiffer.  The clerestory, sides and roof requiring clear material, is the complicating factor. 

Try old CD cases.

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Try old CD cases.

 

All my old CD cases contain old CDs...

 

Another solution could be transparent acrylic sheets. I got some sheets of thin "Perspex" off ebay a while ago, to act as retaining sides for my sliding fiddle yard, and they may come in handy for my next Cakebox Challenge entry too.

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All my old CD cases contain old CDs...

 

Another solution could be transparent acrylic sheets. I got some sheets of thin "Perspex" off ebay a while ago, to act as retaining sides for my sliding fiddle yard, and they may come in handy for my next Cakebox Challenge entry too.

 

That's an idea. 

 

What glues perspex?

Edited by Edwardian
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