Darkly Labs emblaser - affordable laser cutter - review

[JCL]

The good news is that new brackets are winging their way to me as I speak.

 

Hi Mike, I'll be setting up the focus again tonight (using the method from post 4). First impression is that there is a lot to do up front before you can cut anything. but I think it'll be much more versatile in that it can cut more types of material, and materials that are a lot thicker. That said, don't throw away the Silhouette if you want to cut styrene, as the laser wont do this - among other things, it'll melt.

 

I'll let you know what I think when I've been able to use it properly.

 

cheers

 

Jason

[milkbar1]

Hi,

 

I just found your forum regarding the emblaser and enjoyed reading through your updates. I was concidering buying the silver bullet because commercial die cutting is quite costly. I've set up a new business selling graphic art which is is then cut out and placed into a frame. Comes in all different sizes and shapes, which is why commercial die cutting is too costly for me at the moment.

 

I want to have my artwork professionally printed on card and I will cut it out myself using this machine. Do you happen to know how easy and accurate the scan will be at picking up the designs from the paper I have printed on? Also, I noticed burn marks on some of your images that you printed. I'd be printing colour images on white thickish 400gsm paper. WIll it leave burn marks if the paper is laminated? 

 

Thanks in advance. Any advice would be much appreciated before I make a purchase.

[monkeysarefun]

Hi,

 

I just found your forum regarding the emblaser and enjoyed reading through your updates. I was concidering buying the silver bullet because commercial die cutting is quite costly. I've set up a new business selling graphic art which is is then cut out and placed into a frame. Comes in all different sizes and shapes, which is why commercial die cutting is too costly for me at the moment.

 

I want to have my artwork professionally printed on card and I will cut it out myself using this machine. Do you happen to know how easy and accurate the scan will be at picking up the designs from the paper I have printed on? Also, I noticed burn marks on some of your images that you printed. I'd be printing colour images on white thickish 400gsm paper. WIll it leave burn marks if the paper is laminated? 

 

Thanks in advance. Any advice would be much appreciated before I make a purchase.

Gday Milkbar1,

 

I'n still on a learning curve with using the Emblaser and getting the settings correct, hence some of the excessive scorching at times!

 

Regarding your particular request, have you checked out the  DarklyLabs community forum and in particular the Project showcase there, as well as in the archived area.  ?  I know for sure that there are users there who are sucessfully doing what you are asking and they usually have accounts of materials used and settings required.

 

As for your query about scanning the designs, you would need to import the scan into a graphics package such as Inkscape or the Cut2Dlaser that comes with the Emblaser, and either trace it to create the cutting line or  by using the trace bitmap option  which automatically traces the line for you, though this requires a fairly high contrast (eg black design on white background) to work successfully, but if you do have black and white the tracing is usually very accurate - , thats how I did all the ironwork examples posted  yesterday.

 

Hopefully this helps out, if nor feel free to ask more questions, either here or at the darklylabs site - they are very supportive.

Edited April 26, 2016 by monkeysarefun

[teetrix]

Hi Milkbar1,

 

I second Chris - the darkly labs forum has a wider approach and can surely answer your questions better.

With a lasercutter you will always have the risk of burn marks or smoke traces. And the emblaser will not scan your image, it only cuts.

The silver bullet seems to me to fit your purposes better. You can have a look at the Brother "Scan and Cut" range and the Pazzles "Inspiration Vue" too, but I don't know if they can handle the thickness of your cardboard.

 

Michael

Edited April 26, 2016 by teetrix

[monkeysarefun]

Following on from Michaels comments there,not sure if its an issue with you but   be aware that the Emblaser does A3 maximum, whereas the Silver Bullet and the other cutters have a wider cutting area and they have a feed system so maximum  length is much greater too.

[nick_bastable]

Following on from the discussion about black card I picked up a couple of sheets of Daler Canford card at the high street art shop.

 

Really impressed how well and clean it cuts at 10mm x 100% x 1

 

 

 

looks like it will be suitable for 2mm flat coach sides which is good for some EMU's I fancy building

 

The SDJR brake looks great in ply if over scale I may opt for card layer over ply base

 

Nick

 

 

[JCL]

Hi everyone.

 

I've been fine-tuning the lens and have done some tests. Using plain laser printer paper, I've made a series of cuts with the following settings: 10.0mm/sec, 30%,1 pass.

 

Each of the three tests has two lines a certain distance apart: 0.5mm 0.4mm and 0.35mm

 

I can see white paper between the lines that are 0.5 and 0.4mm apart, and can just about to see a small sliver of paper with lines 0.35mm apart.

 

 

I'm guessing from the photo above that my cut lines are about 0.4mm wide.

 

Can anyone tell me if I'm close enough on my lens tuning, or do you think I can get more out of it?

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

edited: to add the photo.

Edited April 28, 2016 by JCL

[JCL]

Ouch, two updates one after the other.

 

I saw the recommendations on here to use black materials, so I bought black card from the Dollar Store over here to have a try cutting something that could be useful. When I got my Silhouette I produced a GCR Barnum coach, and earlier I loaded up one of my Barnum cutting files into the software that comes with this hardware. The only changes I made to the file was to separate out the cut lines from the score lines onto different layers so I could turn them on and off for checking. I didn't make any accommodations for the width of the laser beam. (That sounds a bit sci-fi, I am Dan Dare and you can claim your five Earth Credits)

 

I used the following settings:

 

Black Dollar Store card 10mm/sec 50% 1 pass to cut (this might have been a bit high, I need to do some more test on this)
Black Dollar Store card 10mm/sec 20% 1 pass -toscore
 

I'm very pleased with the result. The vertical lines are very straight, as are the horizontal lines on the right hand side of the cut-out. Those on the left hand side are slightly irregular, but I'm not worrying about this as it's a first try. My thought are that it could be:

• the brackets - which are being replaced
• the quality of the card (it is Dollar Store card)
• the "flatness" of the card
• something else

Sorry about the photos, black lines on black card aren't the easiest of things to expose for!

 

Showing the wavy horizontal lines. That said, the window corners are certainly better rendered than those using the Silhouette. With the Silhouette you have to accept the fact that the point of the blade isn't necessarily the pivot point, so you don't get a quarter circle, but a quarter ellipse.

 

 

Perfect!

 

Personally speaking, with regards to the software, I'd be very happy indeed if it could import SVG files that contained layers! It would be seamless then between Inkscape and the Laser cutting software. That's a nice-to-have though.

 

I'm proper full-on chuffed.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

[Giles]

Hi everyone.

 

I've been fine-tuning the lens and have done some tests. Using plain laser printer paper, I've made a series of cuts with the following settings: 10.0mm/sec, 30%,1 pass.

 

Each of the three tests has two lines a certain distance apart: 0.5mm 0.4mm and 0.35mm

 

I can see white paper between the lines that are 0.5 and 0.4mm apart, and can just about to see a small sliver of paper with lines 0.35mm apart.

 

FullSizeRender.jpg

 

I'm guessing from the photo above that my cut lines are about 0.4mm wide.

 

Can anyone tell me if I'm close enough on my lens tuning, or do you think I can get more out of it?

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

edited: to add the photo.

I think, if you're persistent and lucky, you may be able to get a fraction more out of it. I think I'm down to about 0.2 (it's hard to be completely sure!!!)

[Giles]

Ouch, two updates one after the other.

 

I saw the recommendations on here to use black materials, so I bought black card from the Dollar Store over here to have a try cutting something that could be useful. When I got my Silhouette I produced a GCR Barnum coach, and earlier I loaded up one of my Barnum cutting files into the software that comes with this hardware. The only changes I made to the file was to separate out the cut lines from the score lines onto different layers so I could turn them on and off for checking. I didn't make any accommodations for the width of the laser beam. (That sounds a bit sci-fi, I am Dan Dare and you can claim your five Earth Credits)

 

I used the following settings:

 

Black Dollar Store card 10mm/sec 50% 1 pass to cut (this might have been a bit high, I need to do some more test on this)

Black Dollar Store card 10mm/sec 20% 1 pass -toscore

 

I'm very pleased with the result. The vertical lines are very straight, as are the horizontal lines on the right hand side of the cut-out. Those on the left hand side are slightly irregular, but I'm not worrying about this as it's a first try. My thought are that it could be:

 

• the brackets - which are being replaced
• the quality of the card (it is Dollar Store card)
• the "flatness" of the card
• something else

Sorry about the photos, black lines on black card aren't the easiest of things to expose for!

 

Showing the wavy horizontal lines. That said, the window corners are certainly better rendered than those using the Silhouette. With the Silhouette you have to accept the fact that the point of the blade isn't necessarily the pivot point, so you don't get a quarter circle, but a quarter ellipse.

 

FullSizeRender.jpg

 

Perfect!

IMG_6694.JPG

 

Personally speaking, with regards to the software, I'd be very happy indeed if it could import SVG files that contained layers! It would be seamless then between Inkscape and the Laser cutting software. That's a nice-to-have though.

 

I'm proper full-on chuffed.

 

cheers

 

Jason

Very nice indeed - it shows the machine does a good job!

 

Still, you can always use the Silhouette as a paper-weight? :-)

[JCL]

I couldn't do that! The Silhouette was my first love. If I switched it off it'd be all cut up.

 

Tell you what, it's not easy getting supplies in Canada. I've a good mind to drive to the makers pace in Nanaimo to find out where they get their stuff for their laser.

 

MikeOxon, if you're reading this, I can see the laser utter making a good job of coaches. Although there is no such thing as automatic registration between print and cut, I think that this could be done fairly easily using cross marks and a jig. Whether it'd be as accurate as the Silhouette I'm not sure. Interestingly there is a laser cut print on the Darkly website.

 

Cheers

 

Jason

[nick_bastable]

Jason

 

QCAD can import SVG and save as dxf   ( basic versions freeware) however I have not tried it

 

nice looking coach 

 

Nick

[MikeOxon]

..........................

 

MikeOxon, if you're reading this, I can see the laser utter making a good job of coaches. Although there is no such thing as automatic registration between print and cut, I think that this could be done fairly easily using cross marks and a jig. Whether it'd be as accurate as the Silhouette I'm not sure. Interestingly there is a laser cut print on the Darkly website.

 

Cheers

 

Jason

'course I'm reading - always read your posts, Jason!   Back on the Silhouette thread, we had some discussion about 'Taskboard'  It sounds great for coach sides, since one could also form the 'tumble home  Has anyone tried it out yet?

 

Mike

Edited April 28, 2016 by MikeOxon

[teetrix]

I'm very pleased with the result. The vertical lines are very straight, as are the horizontal lines on the right hand side of the cut-out. Those on the left hand side are slightly irregular, but I'm not worrying about this as it's a first try. My thought are that it could be:

• the brackets - which are being replaced
• the quality of the card (it is Dollar Store card)
• the "flatness" of the card
• something else

 

Jason, I would blame it to the brackets or another mechanical part. It looks as you have a little play at one end of the working area, and at the other end not. I hope it become better when you have replaced the brackets.

 

Michael

[Simond]

do see my issues with registration, CO2 laser thread.  Putting a "box" around the things to be etched and cut, and ensuring that the box is in both the cutting DXF and the etching DXF seems to have solved the issue

 

best

Simon

[JCL]

Sorry Nick, you're perfectly right. My beef was the fact that the only way I can import layers seem to be using a pdf file with each layer on a separate page. Inkscape does export DXF files, but I don't really like the way the parts are broken up (e.g. a rectangle becomes four straight lines). One thing I have succeeded with is exporting as an EPS file. Apart from the layers and groups, the objects seem to stay whole.

 

Hi Simon, thanks very much. That means that if I printed on a laserjet or inkjet a design e.g. coach side with monogram, etc, and included a box around the outside, I would then carefully cut the box by hand and that same box was present in the cutting file, using a jig, I could then line everything up so that the printed side would be cut exactly. The reason for asking is for Mike O, who has mastered this process on the Silhouette with his GWR coaches. They are something to be seen.

 

Tom, any chance of being able to upload crv files as used by the laser cutting software? If so, I'll upload the file for the Barnum side.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

 

Edited April 28, 2016 by JCL

[nick_bastable]

what I have obtained today is this http://www.rothley.com/shop/profiles-sheets/metal-sheets/perforated-sheet-stretch-metal-6-x-3.5mm-mesh-raw-steel/ for the bed of the machine, the mdf I was using was producing fumes hopefully this will be more successful, a previous attempt with large mesh was rubbish as the bits i was cutting dropped through the mesh 

 

I must confess Mrs B works in a builders yard and its a new item thy are stocking

 

Nick

[JCL]

That's interesting, I think I could find something similar used in air filters in the house. Is it strong enough to support itself and stay flat, or would you put it on top of the mdf or similar?

[Simond]

Jason

 

in repsonse to your question, I don't think so - I think you would have to work out the offset between the laser's home position and the corner of the box and make appropriate allowanes - a bit of trial and error on stuff that doesn't matter will pay dividends here.

 

I haven't yet managed it, but I bet it can be done!

 

best

Simon

[Nimbus]

I wonder if anyone makes this in a suitable size? Looks ideal.

 

The Nim.

Edited April 28, 2016 by Nimbus

[nick_bastable]

That's interesting, I think I could find something similar used in air filters in the house. Is it strong enough to support itself and stay flat, or would you put it on top of the mdf or similar?

sticks down with double sided no problem have left the scorched mdf in place

 

I do not understand the alignment issues I etch once from a dwf ( blue in my case) and cut from a reload the cut (red) without alignment issues in card / play for 2mm use

 

 

 

I then export via CAD a red = cut layer and a blue = etch layer each is then loaded to the Cut2d software ie loaded lasered closed and then 2nd loaded

 

they align without issues 

 

NIck

 

just had a thought i always calculate and rehome the device may be the issue ?

 

edited for a thought

Edited April 28, 2016 by nick_bastable

[JCL]

Hi Nick, my enquiry was about manually lining up a preprinted image, such as a coach side that has been printed with a laser jet or inkjet, and then cutting it accurately with the laser cutter. One of the features of the Silhouette is able to read registration lines to ensure that preprinted images are cut accurately. I agree, I can't see a problem with scores and cuts lining up as they are within the same file.

 

Jason

[nick_bastable]

Hi Nick, my enquiry was about manually lining up a preprinted image, such as a coach side that has been printed with a laser jet or inkjet, and then cutting it accurately with the laser cutter. One of the features of the Silhouette is able to read registration lines to ensure that preprinted images are cut accurately. I agree, I can't see a problem with scores and cuts lining up as they are within the same file.

 

Jason

you can import a bmp into cut2d  and trace the vectors

 

NIck

[Simond]

depends on the software with your laser.  mine has "newlydraw" which is at the chocolate teapot end of the spectrum  - it's an older machine, so the software is primitive

each layer has to be set up and cut or etched individually, and to do this, I put each layer in a separate DXF file.

 

tedious, but cheap...

 

best

Simon

Edited April 28, 2016 by Simond

[milkbar1]

Gday Milkbar1,

 

I'n still on a learning curve with using the Emblaser and getting the settings correct, hence some of the excessive scorching at times!

 

Regarding your particular request, have you checked out the  DarklyLabs community forum and in particular the Project showcase there, as well as in the archived area.  ?  I know for sure that there are users there who are sucessfully doing what you are asking and they usually have accounts of materials used and settings required.

 

As for your query about scanning the designs, you would need to import the scan into a graphics package such as Inkscape or the Cut2Dlaser that comes with the Emblaser, and either trace it to create the cutting line or  by using the trace bitmap option  which automatically traces the line for you, though this requires a fairly high contrast (eg black design on white background) to work successfully, but if you do have black and white the tracing is usually very accurate - , thats how I did all the ironwork examples posted  yesterday.

 

Hopefully this helps out, if nor feel free to ask more questions, either here or at the darklylabs site - they are very supportive.

Thanks for your reply and information. I contacted the company and got a reply, which I'm posting here in case anyone else is interested...

 

1: To do this, you will most likely need to have some bleed around the shapes you are cutting. The Emblaser will need to work with a vector file of the outline you need to cut and there may be slight variations as a result of the printing process.

 

Our software natively reads illustrator files, but the most recent version is Windows only. A Mac version is in the works. To run it on your Mac, we do offer an earlier version which was converted to OSX as well.

 

2: The process for you would be the following:

    1: scan your sheet

    2: import into Cut2D-Laser

    3: Use the trace outline tool to created the outline vectors

    4: Create the tool path and send it to the Emblaser for cutting

 

3: Plastics are difficult to cut extremely cleanly with a laser-diode based machine. It can be achieved but depends on some experimentation with laser power.

If this is the main use for your machine, I would recommend sending us a sample that we can test before we you buy. This way you will know what to expect.