Jump to content
 

Darkly Labs emblaser - affordable laser cutter - review


Recommended Posts

 I'm still amazed ta the fineness of detail that can be created, as shown in the posts above.

 

Me, I've been side-tracked playing with lasering wood veneers for a jewelery box top.( Got to keep in the good books if I want to get an Emblaser 2 for Christmas!) I'll post up a picture when its all finished.

 

On a slightly different matter, Domenic has been in touch, he was wondering if we'd mind if Darklylabs joined up to  this forum? Personally I can see only an upside - we'd have direct access to them to sort out any problems, and they'd get to see the kind of things that the Emblaser gets used  for and any limitations that we come up against. If anyone has any thoughts for or against I'd be happy to hear them.

 

Chris.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Darklylabs have been aware of this thread and have been following it since it started pretty much.

By signing up as a member  Domenics' stated  intention is to hopefully be able to assist with any questions we might have as well as  to gain some two-way  information on how we use it, and its performance in the real world.

 

Any of us who have needed support from Darklylabs will know how responsive and  helpful they are, this step will only add to that I reckon.

Edited by monkeysarefun
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Absolutely, and Domenic, I got your replacement parts up here in Canada and it's all working well now. Thanks very much.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is now getting silly. I can get smaller - 1.05mm AF, to fit 0.5mm wire or rod. This is as small as I can go, and I dare say no-one would want these anyway (they're very small!)

 

Same as before, if anyone wants them - but your eye-sight will need to be good!

 

Nuts%20Small_zpskkivfq8l.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

This is now getting silly. I can get smaller - 1.05mm AF, to fit 0.5mm wire or rod. This is as small as I can go, and I dare say no-one would want these anyway (they're very small!)

 

Same as before, if anyone wants them - but your eye-sight will need to be good!

 

 

These open the market up for a lasercut 1.05mm spanner....

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Nick,

 

I think the wagon will even look better if the wood grain follows the line of the planks instead running across them... just a thought

 

Michael

You are correct it would be better as pointed out by Jerry in a private conversation, just me been economical with wood  :nono: on test pieces

 

Nick

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick,

 

I think the wagon will even look better if the wood grain follows the line of the planks instead running across them... just a thought

 

Michael

My experience with a couple of laser cut wood kits I have is that they would be much better in Rowmark or similar. The grain needs filling to get a good paint finish, with the danger that some of the etched detail is lost.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Right - time to stop 'lurking'!!!! I've been following this thread for a few weeks, and so far you lot have cost me about £750...  My 'Emblazer' arrived about a week ago, and assembly was proceeding famously until I came to fit the pulleys to the stepper motor.  On one of them the set-screw threads hadn't been cut deep enough enable the screw to bear against the 'flat' on the spindle.  Brilliant service from 'Darkly' - a replacement (and modified gantry arms) are due to arrive tomorrow.  (I fully support the idea they should be able to register on the forum).

 

My main interest is in architecture and a couple of other strands that I won't go into at the mo' - suffice it to say that 'google' searches for suppliers of 0.25mm MDF have drawn a resounding blank.  This tends to suggest it's not available - unless anyone can suggest otherwise???

 

Okay, off to do the first test drawing - a brick wall in 'English Bond' topped with a paling fence which will be integral with the wall (ie providing the fill) in 7mm.  I'll be working in 'TurboCAD' converting it to a 'pdf' - unless anyone has a better idea??

 

Regards

 

Ian

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Right - time to stop 'lurking'!!!! I've been following this thread for a few weeks, and so far you lot have cost me about £750...  My 'Emblazer' arrived about a week ago, and assembly was proceeding famously until I came to fit the pulleys to the stepper motor.  On one of them the set-screw threads hadn't been cut deep enough enable the screw to bear against the 'flat' on the spindle.  Brilliant service from 'Darkly' - a replacement (and modified gantry arms) are due to arrive tomorrow.  (I fully support the idea they should be able to register on the forum).

 

My main interest is in architecture and a couple of other strands that I won't go into at the mo' - suffice it to say that 'google' searches for suppliers of 0.25mm MDF have drawn a resounding blank.  This tends to suggest it's not available - unless anyone can suggest otherwise???

 

Okay, off to do the first test drawing - a brick wall in 'English Bond' topped with a paling fence which will be integral with the wall (ie providing the fill) in 7mm.  I'll be working in 'TurboCAD' converting it to a 'pdf' - unless anyone has a better idea??

 

Regards

 

Ian

not us Sir never unless we unwittingly had your arm behind your back while picking your pocket  :jester:

you can get 0.4mm ply but if you want 0.25mm I would think card is the best bet  (250 micron I believe)

 

I prefer exporting from cad   in DXF format which imports nicely into the Cut2d software

 

Nick

Link to post
Share on other sites

I now just import straight DWG from AutoCad, which works fusslessly.

 

I've also just taped a 'skirt' of black wool serge around the sides of the Emblaser, which completely blocks the light emission from the sides - which makes it far more comfortable to work with.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Right - time to stop 'lurking'!!!! I've been following this thread for a few weeks, and so far you lot have cost me about £750...  My 'Emblazer' arrived about a week ago, and assembly was proceeding famously until I came to fit the pulleys to the stepper motor.  On one of them the set-screw threads hadn't been cut deep enough enable the screw to bear against the 'flat' on the spindle.  Brilliant service from 'Darkly' - a replacement (and modified gantry arms) are due to arrive tomorrow.  (I fully support the idea they should be able to register on the forum).

 

My main interest is in architecture and a couple of other strands that I won't go into at the mo' - suffice it to say that 'google' searches for suppliers of 0.25mm MDF have drawn a resounding blank.  This tends to suggest it's not available - unless anyone can suggest otherwise???

 

Okay, off to do the first test drawing - a brick wall in 'English Bond' topped with a paling fence which will be integral with the wall (ie providing the fill) in 7mm.  I'll be working in 'TurboCAD' converting it to a 'pdf' - unless anyone has a better idea??

 

Regards

 

Ian

 

 

Welcome aboard sir!  

 

On the subject of materials, not apparently being able to get Trotec easily here, I have been buying random things when I see them in shops and  trying them out...

 

One  material that I'm really impressed with is a kind of metalized paper -  and similar in card, that you can get from office supply or arts and craft shops here. The card works out at around .3mm going by my calipers, and the paper at around .17mm. Its impressively cheap, and does also come in 300gsm weight on Ebay.

 

In use it displays more the characteristics of plastic than card, in that bits that aren't quite cut through can be snapped out cleanly, without leaving a little tuft, or tearing like card would. It also doesn't scorch like card. It has a slightly shimmery metalic sheen but can be painted (and glued)  without a problem, and it does come in many many colours, though not really a true black (my go-to colour for lasering now!) unfortunately, the one called 'Charcoal' is actually a very dark green. Both this one and the very dark navy blue ones laser really well though and like I said, they can be painted afterwards.

 

I've been using 100% power, 1 pass at 10mm/sec, but I think it could go a little faster.

 

 I'm not sure how they compare - in quality and price - to the dedicated laser materials, but if you can find them around the place its worth giving them a go.

 

 I also bought a few sheets of 'RC board' from an American website called  rustystumps.com.

 

I haven't tried it out yet, but it seems to be a kind of woody/pulpy material a bit similar to MDF. It is only in 2 thicknesses, the thinnest being .4mm equivalent, which still sounds a little thick for what you are after. At $4.55 US for an 8inch by 12inch sheet.

 

Again, I'm not sure how that compares to MDF, Trotec  and so on, the killer though is the postage here from the US. If ever I think I've got a little bit too much money I get something posted from the US and that quickly gets rid of it!

Edited by monkeysarefun
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I'm an idiot.

 

OK, that's out the way. You may have read elsewhere that I had a Windows 10 failure last week that's taken me a bit of time to get sorted. This morning I decided to reload the Emblaser software and do some cutting. The reason for being an idiot is that I didn't follow the manual (I should know better) in that I reinstalled Cut2D and the VTransfer software after plugging the cutter in and then finally remembering that I might need some drivers for the hardware. The upshot was that, initially I couldn't talk to the cutter, and then when I could, the cutter status was very much alarmed.

 

The reason for writing this is to help anyone else in the future that does this. Oh, and I was able to reset everything and start again.

 

What I did was:

  1. unplug the cutter and switch it off.
  2. In the windows start bar, I typed in Device Manager and started the app.
  3. I clicked on Ports (COM & LPT) to show Arduino Uno.
  4. Right clicking on that I chose Uninstall.
  5. I then reinstalled the driver
  6. I re-installed Cut2D over the top of the current installation
  7. Connected the cutter
  8. Clicked on both checkboxes in settings

And then cut out a few shapes. You might not need to reinstall Cut2D but, well, in for a penny. Of course the better thing to do would be to follow the instructions in the manual. Luckily the license for Cut2D allows for three installations, but because of the Windows issue, I'm now down to one. I'll see if there is any way of nullifying the other two like you can with Adobe.

 

cheers

 

Jason

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks -

 

I've now received the replacement parts from 'Darkly' - Brilliant service - and am about to fit the board.  In his opening article 'Monkeysarefun' (Chris) suggested altering the dip switches.  A millimetric examination doesn't reveal any....  My board says it's 'version 2' - so is this a mod that has taken care of the issue?

 

As usual, any info gratefully received!

 

Regards

 

Ian

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks -

 

I've now received the replacement parts from 'Darkly' - Brilliant service - and am about to fit the board.  In his opening article 'Monkeysarefun' (Chris) suggested altering the dip switches.  A millimetric examination doesn't reveal any....  My board says it's 'version 2' - so is this a mod that has taken care of the issue?

 

As usual, any info gratefully received!

 

Regards

 

Ian

G'day Ian,

 

This is what my PCB looks like - and you can see the dip switches there.

post-22541-0-70471400-1465076990_thumb.jpg

The fact mine says Rev -1 and you say yours says Version 2 might iindicate that they have updated things and removed them. Which makes sense since I don't imagine very many 3W lasers are sold, and the 4 Watt doesn't need its power input limited so they are no longer necessary, I reckon!

 

On a different note while I'm here, has any body tried out the picsense and picsender photo engraving software from the links on the darklylabs site? I downloaded it on Friday but so far its rather frustrating and all I've managed so far is for the laser to sit in one spot and burn a little hole, until I cancel the programme at which point the software loses connectivity with the laser and only a laptop reboot gets it back. If anyone HAS managed to get it going I'd love some tips!

 

I'll carry on again today, the weather is good for nothing else here this weekend, though if the rain keeps up I might have to get started on that ark. Bright note, my house now has water views.

Edited by monkeysarefun
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...