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Darkly Labs emblaser - affordable laser cutter - review


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Morning Giles,

 Superb stuff - very inspirational! But may i ask what type of plastic you are using, and is it available online?

 I'm struggling to find suitable materials...

Gaz.

 

 

I can't afford a mid-life crisis.....

However, I shall be selling these drain covers for 7mm to help ease burdens...

 

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I use Tromark ADA as a material.

 

 

I've Had some success with the round drain covers, such as you find in the middle of the road.......

 

Whilst perhaps not perfect, they are significantly finer than the white metal ones I've seen.

 

IMG_0247_zpsrqsoramd.jpg

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Morning/Evening all

 

has anyone a dxf file of either plain bricks or better still cobbles ?

 

got impatient and created my own file   3 cutting hours later 

 

post-1480-0-01751400-1463160621_thumb.jpg

 

post-1480-0-88857300-1463160651_thumb.jpg

 

cobbles are overscale at 2mm x 1mm  :protest:

 

thanks

 

Nick

Edited by nick_bastable
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I had the same thought when designing a test GNR six wheel full brake in styrene a couple of years ago.

 

What if you:

 

remove the section of black card that shows where the duckets will be,

Using your laser cutter, cut the sides out of your wood and butt them up against the edges of the black card,

cut some spacers in wood or thicker card to go between the ducket sides so that, on the flat part of the ducket the spacer is flush with the edge of the ducket. This would make it pretty solid

Use black card to form the curve of the ducket wall and a score line at the fold so that it also forms the top?

 

Cheers

 

Jason

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With a whole lot of persistence, I've managed to cut extremely small holes in Trotec reliably. The upshot is that I'll be able to supply fire escapes in Trotec - not only in 7mm, but in 4mm as well! The 4mm tread is in 0.5mm Trotec

 

IMG_0259_zpsrzdcxst3.jpg

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With a whole lot of persistence, I've managed to cut extremely small holes in Trotec reliably. The upshot is that I'll be able to supply fire escapes in Trotec - not only in 7mm, but in 4mm as well! The 4mm tread is in 0.5mm Trotec

 

IMG_0259_zpsrzdcxst3.jpg

Giles

 

please remind me where you got the material from ?

 

thanks

 

Nick

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Morning/Evening all

 

has anyone a dxf file of either plain bricks or better still cobbles ?

 

got impatient and created my own file   3 cutting hours later 

 

attachicon.gifDSC_4177a.jpg

 

attachicon.gifDSC_4178a.jpg

 

cobbles are overscale at 2mm x 1mm  :protest:

 

thanks

 

Nick

If you need very regular cobbles these look good.

I would prefer them to be slightly irregular so random in size,  spacing and alignment although within quite tight limits. Is there a way of doing that with software and laser cutter?

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Nick, the material is Trotec ADA, and you can get it in a variety of thicknesses, and generally it cuts very well.

thanks its expensive though how does it glue?

 

meanwhile

 

post-1480-0-90446200-1463588162_thumb.jpg

 

some of the lines need thickening up as when you breath they break shame as once glued it would not matter

 

guess which dummy used the mk1 cad instead of the revised version with thicker cross beams on the sides  :senile:

 

Nick

Edited by nick_bastable
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With Rowmark I found that small area joints needed Cyano, but larger areas and also joining Plasticard or Evergreen strip, then Butanone seems okay. Butanone or other solvents doesn't seem to work well enough to weld small areas strongly enough.

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EMA plastic weld is a very effective solvent - and I dare say there are others. I just googled 'solvents for acrylic' and that came up so I bought it, and it works very well. At least as well as MEK on plasticard.

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The classic solvent for acrylic was chloroform, I doubt it's easily available nowadays, and it's not really nice stuff, either health wise, or environmentally, so probably just as well.

 

Wrong... eBay to the rescue - bit pricey at £150 / litre tho'

 

Best

Simon

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So, Nick, what's the technique?

 

Looks like the outer layer is stretched over formers?

 

Best

Simon

Simon

 

its a cheat the body of the ducket is a ply rectangle with the top and bottom carefully filed after etching on the planking and cutting out.   In larger scales I think it could be done properly, the 2mm test I done of separate  ends worked complete with the window but filling the gap  was impossible ( at least for me )

 

Nick

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