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BR 20T Coke Hopper diagram 1/150


macgeordie
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I managed to get the handrails and the solebar hooks fitted today. The hooks are a bit fiddly to make as they are so small. I ended up using the very tip of my small round nosed pliers to get the basic shape then threaded them all onto a piece of 0.9mm wire and tweaked them to the final shape so they were all the same size. Next time I'll fit them before the brake levers go on, they are really difficult to fit once the brake levers are in place.

 

post-6711-0-73883700-1456674428_thumb.jpg

 

The third (and hopefully final) test etch is ordered and should arrive some time during this week.

 

Ian

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This is absolutely lovely - but call me Mr. Picky if you will: I think the brake gear on the droplink side is on the wrong way round...

 

PS: I'm more than happy to be proved wrong.

Looks that way to me too. Superb bit of modelling and etching though, shame I have no use for one.

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Oh, we were all hoping you'd just fitted it the wrong way :(

When I looked at it more closely, it was just fitted the wrong way around. It was a pain in the posterior to take out and put back again the correct way around as the brake safety bars have to be removed and they are difficult to get at when everything else is in place. However, with perseverance and slightly singed fingers the job is done. I must make a prominent note about that in the instructions so I don't do it again.

 

Here is the rectified version

 

post-6711-0-17888400-1456744720_thumb.jpg

 

Ian

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When I looked at it more closely, it was just fitted the wrong way around. It was a pain in the posterior to take out and put back again the correct way around as the brake safety bars have to be removed and they are difficult to get at when everything else is in place. However, with perseverance and slightly singed fingers the job is done. I must make a prominent note about that in the instructions so I don't do it again.

 

Here is the rectified version

 

_MG_1883b.jpg

 

Ian

Glad you were able to sort it without it costing you anything

I think we've all been there when you put something wrong way round and it's only when someone tells you you see the discrepancy ,

My last one was upside down axle boxes lol

 

Great looking wagon

 

Brian

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When Trev Mann and me measured the wagons for the drawings* 

 

* measured on a wet day in Barry. I did the field drawing so sheltered in the massive cab of a GWR 2-8-0 or 2-8-2 tank! 

Is there any chance of me getting my hands on a copy of these drawings Paul?

 

Ian

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Is there any chance of me getting my hands on a copy of these drawings Paul?

 

Ian

Yes, the reference is given earlier in this post and also on my site, Larkin, David & Mann, Trevor (1983a) 20ton standard Coke Hopper Wagons.  Model Railway Constructor vol. 50 (part 592) pp 478 - 483.

Drawings - Coke wood raves diag. 1/150 , Coke steel raves diag. 1/151 ; Coke all steel sides diag. 1/152

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Hi Paul

Thanks for the link, I never thought about trying that one. I looked on EBay and there are loads of Constructor mags on there all around the issue number I want but not 592. If we don't have a copy at the club I'll give them a call.

 

Ian

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I made a start on the next test build a couple of days ago. The first job is to press out all the rivets. There are quite a lot of them and I noticed on the photographs of the prototype they seem quite small so I used the anvil intended for 2mm rivets on my GW Models press.

 

post-6711-0-65345100-1458915554_thumb.jpg

 

The black pen mark is so I wouldn't forget to leave this area of rivets untouched as there is an overlay which goes on the outside and if the rivets are pressed out the overlay won't sit down properly. with the rivet positions etched you do still get a representation of the rivets on the inside of the wagon.

 

The sides and ends need the fold putting in at the bottom edge and I added a gauge to the edge of the fret to help get the correct angle. The rectangular frame is the inner rim of the wagon which sits just below the Raves. Having added this to the etch from the previous version, it is much easier to assemble as this frame keeps everything at the correct angle. There are tabs and slots on the ends of the sides and end pieces to help with vertical alignment.

 

post-6711-0-49167000-1458915870_thumb.jpg

 

The other new parts I added were the inner framework ribbing. I had to file the tabs on these parts rather a lot to get them to fit properly so I will modify the drawing and get a new tool made to remove the need to do this. I have decided to do the diagram 151 and 152 versions as well now so the additional cost is in my opinion justifiable as these components will be used on all three versions.

 

post-6711-0-80126100-1458916091_thumb.jpg

 

Inner frames and outer strapping for the Raves now in place.

 

post-6711-0-46393800-1458916143_thumb.jpg

 

The wagon inner rim now goes in, this has to be fitted accurately at 90 degrees to the side, but once this is done, the ends and the other side fit very easily.

 

post-6711-0-66220000-1458916274_thumb.jpg

 

Both ends and the side now assembled

 

post-6711-0-08916300-1458916322_thumb.jpg

 

Once the sides are all fitted, the rim needs to be soldered to the wagon side to keep it in place. A piece of wood and a strong clip hold it the rim in place for soldering on the underside so it isn't seen later.

 

post-6711-0-35318100-1458916418_thumb.jpg

 

 

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That's looking smashing. It looks like it will have so much more detail than the Hornby model.

Although I've never seen a photo of one of these in use in Durham or Northumberland during the BR period the NCB used them. East Hetton colliery had a rake with the raves removed that were used for stone dispersal & teaming bye and I've also seem images of them at Pegswood Colliery.

 

P

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Wibbling furiously again....

 

We don't really need to know about your personal habits Iain  :laugh:  (just joking)

 

A bit more progress, the inner strapping for the Raves is now in place.

 

post-6711-0-81591900-1459171864_thumb.jpg

 

I also got the hopper chutes fitted and the corner strengtheners.

 

post-6711-0-88855400-1459171946_thumb.jpg

 

These are the little fold-ups which represent the hopper door hinge covers. I've decided that they are too difficult to fit in the form that I currently have the hopper floor designed, so as I'm having a new tool made anyway, I have redrawn the section for the hopper chutes and made it so that all three chutes will be one piece with the floor in place between them which will have slots and half etched recesses to accept the hinge covers which should make them easier to fit. The door etches can still be soldered on the underside to give all the necessary detail.

 

post-6711-0-22517900-1459172163_thumb.jpg

 

I've got the family here for a few days now, so I'm not going to get anything else done on this project till later in the week.

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I managed to get a lot done on the chassis today

 

This is the inner solebar with cross frames and the 'W iron' section ready to join together.

 

post-6711-0-11884400-1459534954_thumb.jpg

 

The main solebars are in place and the sub assemblies are soldered against them.

 

post-6711-0-04073800-1459535087_thumb.jpg

 

Solebar rivet detail overlay in place and a couple of axles fitted to make sure the chassis is square and level.

 

post-6711-0-13653100-1459535176_thumb.jpg

 

Buffer beam overlay and coupling hook in place.

 

post-6711-0-32860700-1459535241_thumb.jpg

 

The small cross frames are a real pain to fit as they are so small, I think I will try to find a way of having them all attached to another section of brass so they can be held in place as one piece for soldering, then the attachment part can be snipped off once they are all soldered to the inner solebar.

 

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Having already created something this sophisticated, why not go the final mile and go for springing?

Hi Mike

 

Thanks for the compliments, but the reason I haven't included springing is principally that the clearances for the wheel flanges against the hopper chutes are very tight. I have used Alan Gibson wheels and the flanges are close to the chutes. With Hornby wheels which have bigger flanges the wheel can touch the body which is obviously not satisfactory. I could compromise and move the wheel bearings down by a millimeter but that would mean the wagon would be sitting a scale three inches too high and I wanted to avoid that. I could make the 'W' iron with overlapping holes to provide this option if anybody wanted it, let me have your opinions guys.

 

Being a 'OO' Luddite I didn't feel there was any need for springing or compensation, and really, if you can't get a short wheelbase four wheeled wagon to run on track with Alan Gibson wheels there must be something wrong with the track laying.

 

Ian

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Hi Ian

 

Yes the current RTR Hornby ex LNER hoppers suffer from wheel flanges dragging on the chutes - back to back and centralisation of the wheels on the axle is crittical, there aint a lot of room down there...

 

Ineterested to see if the problem resurfaces when their cokes appear....

 

Phil

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With regards to wheels, i had the same problem when building some of the old 3h kits. My solution was to use romfords or Dapol wheels, with them being only 12mm, vs the Hornby/Bachmann wheels are 14.1mm, representing the new wheel size of 3ft1.5in. It may only be 0.1mm, but as tesco say, every little helps.

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