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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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Hi Jon.  interesting comment.  I was not impressed with this particular kit.  Being used to having half etches to assist correctly aligning the etchings.  Plus complicated instructions trying to work out which way up and round some of them go.

 

The order of assembly is totally opposite to my assembly order.

 

However I've sorted that all out now.  The chassis was OK though.

 

by the way, Chowbent took over my Kenscale Kits from way back.  (They went together very well)

 

 

Edited by jazz
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had friends round yesterday and they wanted to go up the Great Orme.  Got the bus to the top and decided to walk back down. Oh boy  did it rain. Absolutely soaked right through. still we had fun and a very nice (wet) meal in a restaurant at the bottom.🤪

 

Anyway, done a bit more on the 2-6-4 today.   I will have to work out the best way to fasten the body to the front of the chassis. Seems the designer overlooked that important issue.

 

stanier2-6-4body2.JPG.fa762493371387024a6bd7ee5967c9d1.JPG

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12 hours ago, doilum said:

There is always the Triang solution. This also gives you the excuse to drill out the whitemetal chimney and fit a proper blast pipe...

The cast chimney is cast with a proper hole that sits over the hole in the smokebox. It would take a mighty long bolt to reach the nut. Not very good at all.  I do have two or three methods that will work with a bit of out of sight scratch building.

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On 29/09/2023 at 09:36, jazz said:

The cast chimney is cast with a proper hole that sits over the hole in the smokebox. It would take a mighty long bolt to reach the nut. Not very good at all.  I do have two or three methods that will work with a bit of out of sight scratch building.

For the benefit of anyone tempted to try the Triang method in 7mm.

The bolt can be extended by cutting in two and soldering each half into a suitable length of brass tube.

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The 2-6-4 is almost finished.  The few missing detail parts should arrive tomorrow then is prep time for the primer and motorizing and completing the valve gear

 

stanier2-6-4almostfinished.JPG.59418f5ca63e77f62b20547df52a567d.JPG

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Congrats on finishing your 2-6-4T it looks well.  One doesn't see many Stanier 'Big tanks' being modelled nor, indeed, many Chowbent kits at all.  When I built mine some 20 yrs ago the biggest obstacle that I had to overcome was that, if built to the instructions, the cylinders were set at too steep an angle so rather than relying on the slots in the frames to locate them I built the whole cylinder/valve gear assembly on a separate plate.  I also seem to remember that if the slidebars were mounted as designed they were too far apart for the supplied crosshead.  Other than that any errors were probably of my own making.  IIRC The kit was designed with the cab steps to be attached to the chassis but I decided to fit them to the body - it was only when I came to fit the injectors behind the cab steps that I found out why!  If I was doing it again I'd probably do it sprung or compensated due to the long coupled wheelbase. You obviously found your own way around these odd 'niggles' in an otherwise enjoyable build.  Apologies for not posting sooner but I've only just noticed your thread.

Cheers,

Ray.

p.s. When I built mine Slaters didn't do 5' 9" dia. V-rim wheels so I had to use incorrect 'flat' rim ones - must get round to changing them one day.

Stanier 2-6-4t from Chowbent kit.jpg

Edited by Marshall5
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57 minutes ago, Marshall5 said:

Congrats on finishing your 2-6-4T it looks well.  One doesn't see many Stanier 'Big tanks' being modelled nor, indeed, many Chowbent kits at all.  When I built mine some 20 yrs ago the biggest obstacle that I had to overcome was that, if built to the instructions, the cylinders were set at too steep an angle so rather than relying on the slots in the frames to locate them I built the whole cylinder/valve gear assembly on a separate plate.  I also seem to remember that if the slidebars were mounted as designed they were too far apart for the supplied crosshead.  Other than that any errors were probably of my own making.  IIRC The kit was designed with the cab steps to be attached to the chassis but I decided to fit them to the body - it was only when I came to fit the injectors behind the cab steps that I found out why!  If I was doing it again I'd probably do it sprung or compensated due to the long coupled wheelbase. You obviously found your own way around these odd 'niggles' in an otherwise enjoyable build.  Apologies for not posting sooner but I've only just noticed your thread.

Cheers,

Ray.

p.s. When I built mine Slaters didn't do 5' 9" dia. V-rim wheels so I had to use incorrect 'flat' rim ones - must get round to changing them one day.

Stanier 2-6-4t from Chowbent kit.jpg

looks very nice job.

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The 2-6-4 Stanier is now completed ready for Geoff.  A bit of head scratching to get if finished. I've just been asked to build a College Models Stanier 2-6-2T with no instructions. So that will arrive early next week putting all the other builds back a while. Hopefully this 2-6-4T will help in that build.

 

stanier2-6-4nowfininshed.JPG.40f2783a739a03a74f9f0cdc828eb6cf.JPG

 

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A change to the planned next build.  Geoff has a change of heart and asked me to build the Underhill Midland/LMS class 3 0-6-0 tender loco (Another kit from way back)

 

Brings back memories from the typical Underhill kits.

 

Here is the tender I stared on Sunday and now onwards with the loco.

 

underhillclass3tendera.JPG.31d4394929da5d996a9bb0d6ae00e340.JPG

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the Underhill loco is now underway. Got the chassis running very smooth letting it run under its own steam down a slight gradient. So it should run as well powered. 

 

underhillbody1.JPG.bc6d48c3631ff4d6aeb6d7da5e952208.JPG 

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Here we have another old kit from Sanspereil.   It comes to me without any instructions just a photo and a line drawing.  There is lots of etchings that I have no idea were quite  a few of them I've no idea were they are meant to go.

 

I've done the chassis with a few parts left over.  The motion brackets are missing. I will wait now until the body is built and see how visible they would be before cobbling a pair of them. The driving wheels are on a cradle to allow them the rock

 

This is it so far.

 

Tenterdonchassis1.JPG.3cdb268764504212e0d5155291fafbf5.JPG

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12 hours ago, sir douglas said:

K&ESR?

Yes.  No instructions with a fair amount of etches not knowing where they are supposed to fit. Plus some are actually missing.  A challenging kit for me to build. 

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underhill0-4-0T1.JPG.482d4e35852680a566d30a1e424adfd4.JPG

Well underway now. Had to make some missing parts along the way.  Getting the motor to ft require

some chopping away of the backhead. You cannot really see where thankfully.

 

underhill0-4-0T2.JPG.e9265adfc6840fc3b3fc856f04d51f91.JPG

 

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Ken,

 

What size motor is that?   I'm starting a build on a LNWR Precedent from an OLD Modeller's World kit.   I started with an 1833 Mashima on the front of the forward driven axle, but it is taking too much room in the firebox.  It is just a mm or two too long to stand upright, leaving the firebox clear for lead.   I'm going to try a 1524, not as powerful but leaving me all sorts of room for weight.   The Precedent, despite being wildly successful, was in fact a fairly small loco.

 

Kevin

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7 hours ago, bluestag said:

Ken,

 

What size motor is that?   I'm starting a build on a LNWR Precedent from an OLD Modeller's World kit.   I started with an 1833 Mashima on the front of the forward driven axle, but it is taking too much room in the firebox.  It is just a mm or two too long to stand upright, leaving the firebox clear for lead.   I'm going to try a 1524, not as powerful but leaving me all sorts of room for weight.   The Precedent, despite being wildly successful, was in fact a fairly small loco.

 

Kevin

Hi Kevin.  This is a Mashima 1824.    I had to cut the shaft right down.

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Kevin, I Do not have an answer for that one.  Geoff give kits to build that have motors etc in the box. That's why a lot of kits I'm building are getting a bit long in the tooth.

 

Onwards with the Sanspareil K&ESR tank loco.  I've no finished my part of the build all except for the safety valves that are missing from the kit.  Those will have to be scored by Geoff'.

 

Here it is for now.

 

sanpareil0-4-0finished.JPG.5fd33b8456e7903fb4a3e0d31f39a16c.JPG  

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On 18/10/2023 at 12:59, jazz said:

That's the Underhill Class 3 now finished and ready for collection. Not been a particularly easy kit I have to say.

 

underhill0-6-0finished2.JPG.73f59177cef2c162dd00fb5509d9040f.JPG

 

underhill0-6-0finished.JPG.381c3d48ddfb03afd7d37ed72d1420ee.JPG

Just staggered by your speed of construction! Amazing work. Takes me weeks of  agonising just to lift the soldering iron …

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6 hours ago, Irish Padre said:

Just staggered by your speed of construction! Amazing work. Takes me weeks of  agonising just to lift the soldering iron …

Thanks for that comment.  I just spend most of my time building these kits.  I's something that I really enjoy doing. ( Currently I've exceeded the 500 I've built.)  My good lady enjoys railways as much as I do most of our holidays entail a railway involvement.  

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