Jump to content
 

Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
 Share

Recommended Posts

Back at the WB again after the wonderful break exploring the East Lanc railway, Settle/Carlisle and the lake distric. Cracking on now with the Princess. It's a surprisingly long winded build. At last I have the body ready for cleaning etc and now starting the finnishing off of the chassis.

 

The photos have had no polishing and cleaning yet.

post-150-0-32656900-1307897425_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-29389900-1307897459_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-65131500-1307897500_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ho boy, finally at the prep stage for painting. This has been a tedious build and I've had to keep taking breaks from it. That's not to say it's been a bad kit, it's actually been OK to build. Very little fettling required at all. It was a refreshing change for all the valve gear to go together without clearance problems.

 

The only real issue is having to shave away a bit of the front brake hangers to clear to bogie wheels. That's the problem with fine scale wheel standards, they are overscale.

 

I am looking at the model being done and dusted by Sunday. Then it's some serious house decorating time to keep the wife happy.

 

post-150-0-05664900-1308253938_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-36494900-1308253970_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Michael. Got her primed and chassis painted black this morning. I should be posting pics tomorrow, a lot of re assembling to do first though.

 

In the meantime, I finished ogg trhe D16 Claud Hamilton class this evening. She is now for sale. Here is the finished loco.

 

post-150-0-20999300-1308426900_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-45134000-1308427006_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-98471100-1308426939_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ken, have been reading your WB photo's. You have been making some lovely models much much quicker than I can. I know what you mean about using fine scale wheels standards as I am using them on the David Andrew's Rebuilt Royal Scot. I have bought some JLTRT under-frame kit for it. Iv'e had to file the brake hangers & brake shoes to make them fit between the wheels. I think the main problem is the narrowness of the frame spacers 2mm more would be good, shame David Andrews cant make them bigger or give an extra set of etchings.

Anyway carry on with the good work.

 

Len Cattley

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Len. Generally there is not much of a promblem with the brake hangers, only when the bogies are close to them or the drivers have a tight wheelbase spacing.

 

The biggest problem that crops up is clearances for the valve gear. This loco was not much of a problem as the cross heads do not pass in front of the coupling rod bushes.

 

I have never built anything in 7 scale, so it would be interesting to know if those same problems arise with the DA, JLTRT and Gladiator kits and the like.

 

Anyway, the Princess is all done and dusted ready for the painter.

post-150-0-97381800-1308514743_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-94118300-1308514774_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-99948000-1308513909_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-39368800-1308513946_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stephen & Adrian, thanks for pointing out the solder issue, I had considered that. I do keep the solder down to a minimum anyway. I guess if there are small areas that will not blacken, paint will hide that.

 

There is one item I have just thought of, the Dingham couplings. The 300 or so already on the layout will be too big a job to clean and blacken, especially as quite a few have had the magic marker over them. But the new ones will be treated.

 

I assume once the metal is blackened it cannot be soldered at all?

 

Regards Ken

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Ken,

 

interesting to see that you've modeled the only coal pusher tender (No 9359) that was coupled to the Lizzy's. It was normally attached to 6206 as that was the only Lizzy that had the steam fitting for the coal pusher.

 

It's looking good. Who's kit is it?

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ozzy0. It's a Gladiator kit. The kit kit did not actually have the coal pusher castings but did have the neccesary etchings. I did query this with Geoff, he said it to be 6207 and the guy will require the coal pusher. Who am I to question what the customer wants?

 

I will get check again with with Geoff before he collects it, it would only need the cowl and pipe removing from the rear. Coal would hide the rest!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ozzy0. It's a Gladiator kit. The kit kit did not actually have the coal pusher castings but did have the neccesary etchings. I did query this with Geoff, he said it to be 6207 and the guy will require the coal pusher. Who am I to question what the customer wants?

 

I will get check again with with Geoff before he collects it, it would only need the cowl and pipe removing from the rear. Coal would hide the rest!

 

 

Hello Ken,

 

6207 had this tender for approx one year 1946 - 1947.

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Crickey, I'd have to get a larger WB. Having said that, a few years ago, with the exception of the wheels, which came from CCW, I totally scratch built this 10mm beast for the then sub editor of the Times. The 'cow catchers' were a real challenge.

 

When this photos was taken I was awaiting delivery of custom etched name & number plates in polished brass. The track is obviously incorrect being 7mm standard gauge.

 

post-150-0-10865700-1308771452_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just thought you might like to see KIDWELLY all ready for service on Pen y Cwm with driver Alf Williams in charge, looking chuffed with himself. I like Agengoria kits so much I have the Fox Walker saddle tank and ordered their L & Y Pug. The pug has been a long time favourite of mine. I guess you could accuse me of being obsessed my small tank locos, to that I plead guilty, m'lud.

 

post-150-0-09955400-1308929168_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-76275000-1308929203_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-23324000-1308929250_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Here is one I've just completed. The LNER B1. A quite straight forward kit to build. I had the usual problems with very tight clearances for the coupling rods clearing the connecting rods. This was helped by reversing the coupling rod axle bush and soldering the bush to the crank pin. That left just enough clearance to miss the connecting rod.

 

The other issue, as with a lot of tenders was getting the buffers to actually work as they line up with the tender frames. This obviously prevents the buffer head from pushing back. Not an issue when you have rear steps on the tender to hide a suitable slot behind them.

 

The photos show how I solve this.

 

post-150-0-87732500-1311020431_thumb.jpg

Assemble the buffer in the normal manner. Solder nut to rear and check it's working OF. File a flat on the nut/shaft to clear the frame. Fit to buffer beam.

 

post-150-0-92818900-1311020476_thumb.jpg

Showing the frame over the buffer hole.

 

post-150-0-29804100-1311020522_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-34484700-1311020591_thumb.jpg

The buffer showing to the outside will be hidden by the corner L bracket.

post-150-0-40485000-1311020630_thumb.jpg

 

post-150-0-34653300-1311020807_thumb.jpg

Chassis completed. The gear box unit is not the one the kit was designed for. You will notice the reversed cranck pin bushon the leading driver. This is more flush than using the nut in the normal way.

 

post-150-0-50487500-1311020842_thumb.jpg

As a result a bit of chomping was needed to clear it.

 

post-150-0-31757500-1311020677_thumb.jpg

All finished for collection.

 

post-150-0-05969600-1311020725_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-73967600-1311020768_thumb.jpg

 

Now it's on with an Ivatt 2-6-2T. An Acme kit

post-150-0-53553200-1311020558_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ken,

 

Is the B1 kit mainly etched brass and do you have any other pictures of the build please, it would be great to see them. I like the DJH B1 but IMHO it's too expensive and all that white metal can't be a good thing !

 

ATB Mick

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ken,

 

Is the B1 kit mainly etched brass and do you have any other pictures of the build please, it would be great to see them. I like the DJH B1 but IMHO it's too expensive and all that white metal can't be a good thing !

 

ATB Mick

 

 

The B1 is NOT a DJH kit. This kit is etched brass, the only white metal is the detail castings. Sorry I have no other photos of the build.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...