Jazz 7mm Workbench

[jazz]

Another part day on the Class P.  A lot of diving into the scrap box for castings to add details.  Almost there now though, hopefully I will have time to complete it in the morrow.

 

Just some parts to scratch build that are not included.

 

 

 

[jazz]

The P class is now ready for the off.  Quite a bit of detailing not supplied has been done. Both in the cab and to the body.

 

Items added Vac & Steam pipes, brake rodding and tie bars, brake shoes, fire iron support bracket, right hand clack valve & pipe, steam reverser, handrail knobs, top of safety valve, Tank supports, roof gutters and bunker beading.    

 

Cab splashers, brake control, hand wheels, hand brake handle, firebox pipework, firebox door handle, cab doors.

 

Here she is.

 

 

Edited April 3, 2015 by jazz

[jazz]

Onwards today with one of my favourite loco's the LMS Patriot.  Building it from the Gladiator kit.

 

Starting with the tender, an excellent kit that goes together like a dream.

 

 

 

 

[jazz]

Well that's the tender done. No problems at all with the build.

 

 

[david.hill64]

Looking good - as usual!

[farren]

Lovely as we have come to expect. May I ask how many hours on average do you spend a day working on an model? as it's seems no sooner you start it's finished and on to the next

[jazz]

When not distracted by house refurbishments, as I currently am, I usually put an average of about 6.5 hours per day. The speed of the builds also depends on the quality of the kit in question plus the method of building I have developed over the past the 40+ decades.

Edited April 8, 2015 by jazz

[Guest Isambarduk]

"40+ decades"

 

That's over 400 years!  You don't look it, Jazz :-)

[farren]

Must be that their welsh air.

 

Cheers jaz for your answer. Any pointers for us mere mortals that take the same time to read the dam instructions has it does you to build a model. Though I work in oo gauge I do process a O gauge which I intend to do one day

Edited April 8, 2015 by farren

[jazz]

"40+ decades"

 

That's over 400 years!  You don't look it, Jazz :-)

OOPS.    Maybe I don't, I do feel it sometimes though

Edited April 9, 2015 by jazz

[jazz]

Must be that their welsh air.

 

Cheers jaz for your answer. Any pointers for us mere mortals that take the same time to read the dam instructions has it does you to build a model. Though I work in oo gauge I do process a O gauge which I intend to do one day

The sweet Welsh air does help and if one listens carefully you hear the beautiful sounds of the male voice choirs drifting across the valleys liftings your hearts soaring high above the clouds. What a wonderful world.

 

Returning to earth. Instructions. Oh boy, don't you just love them.  The best are IMHO are mainly exploded diagram variety. Trying to decipher what the manufacture means is rarely easy.

 

Fortunately, having built hundreds of kits, mostly it's down to common sense and recognising where various parts are meant to fit.  So I only glance though them to get a feel of how it's designed to be built.

 

Then I mark all the less obvious parts using a felt tip by transferring the part numbers from the instructions/etched sheet.

 

I then rivet and clean up all the parts and folding them where required ready for assembly. Also drilling out all holes to the correct size.

 

Only now I heat up the iron and start construction. Starting by adding handrail knobs, steps and other bits and pieces that are easier done now rather than later.

 

Now it's time to start the assembly proper.  I have to admit experience comes into play here as sometimes the instructions will not necessarily be the most logical order of assembly. I always look for the easiest way and always try to solder as much as possible from behind. Must less cleaning up to do then.

 

The greatest aid to faster assembly is having all the parts prepared and marked.  Above all, it's not a race to complete a build but with the right preparations the build will naturally progress faster.  Cleaning up the model as you go helps greatly with the finish. I remove excess solder as I go and wipe the model with a damp cloth.  At the end of each day a wash in warm soapy water and leave in the airing cupboard overnight goes a long way too.

 

Above all else, have fun with the build and do not be afraid to adjust parts for a really good fit. In extreme cases I have binned a part and just made a replacement, though thankfully the more recent kits are far better than those pre CAD offerings.

Edited April 9, 2015 by jazz

[Guest Isambarduk]

"So I only glance though them to get a feel of how it's designed to be built."
"... experience comes into play here as sometimes the instructions will not necessarily be the most logical order of assembly"

 

Hear, hear; my approach exactly!  David

[jazz]

Today sees the start on the chassis. As with the tender, all is fitting together like a dream. This being the third Gladiator Patriot I've built over the years, I'm not anticipating any problems at all. The only modification made today was lowering the large centre spacer to leave room for the pickups. This has no detrimental affect on the build and slightly different than making slots in the spacer to accommodate pickups as suggested in the instructions.

 

Edited April 10, 2015 by jazz

[farren]

Maybe if I was following your topic I would have noticed your reply sooner. Thanks for your answer ill get all the prep done frist and see how I get on. Now following your work bench.

[jazz]

Back on the WB today.  The dangly bits are all done except the return cranks (they will be done on final assembly)

 

Just the cylinder drain valves to add. So it's on with the bogie and body now.

 

 

 

 

[ian@stenochs]

The sweet Welsh air does help and if one listens carefully you hear the beautiful sounds of the male voice choirs drifting across the valleys liftings your hearts soaring high above the clouds. What a wonderful world.

 

Returning to earth. Instructions. Oh boy, don't you just love them. The best are IMHO are mainly exploded diagram variety. Trying to decipher what the manufacture means is rarely easy.

 

Fortunately, having built hundreds of kits, mostly it's down to common sense and recognising where various parts are meant to fit. So I only glance though them to get a feel of how it's designed to be built.

 

Then I mark all the less obvious parts using a felt tip by transferring the part numbers from the instructions/etched sheet.

 

I then rivet and clean up all the parts and folding them where required ready for assembly. Also drilling out all holes to the correct size.

 

Only now I heat up the iron and start construction. Starting by adding handrail knobs, steps and other bits and pieces that are easier done now rather than later.

 

Now it's time to start the assembly proper. I have to admit experience comes into play here as sometimes the instructions will not necessarily be the most logical order of assembly. I always look for the easiest way and always try to solder as much as possible from behind. Must less cleaning up to do then.

 

The greatest aid to faster assembly is having all the parts prepared and marked. Above all, it's not a race to complete a build but with the right preparations the build will naturally progress faster. Cleaning up the model as you go helps greatly with the finish. I remove excess solder as I go and wipe the model with a damp cloth. At the end of each day a wash in warm soapy water and leave in the airing cupboard overnight goes a long way too.

 

Above all else, have fun with the build and do not be afraid to adjust parts for a really good fit. In extreme cases I have binned a part and just made a replacement, though thankfully the more recent kits are far better than those pre CAD offerings.

Edited April 13, 2015 by ian@stenochs

[ian@stenochs]

Hi Jazz.

I have watched your thread for a while now and you have built a fair number of kits. However I dont think I have found you refering to drawings or photographs of the prototype. Do you just assemble the kit or do you model a specific prototype?

Ian

[jazz]

Hi Ian.     I sometimes build a specific prototype (LMS Patriot 'Llandudno' and LNER Flying Scotsman double tender seen a few pages back) and obtained photos of them, mainly from the web and my books.  Very occasionally I'll have GA drawings to hand.  Only very rarely I build purely from the instructions.  I have been known to produce my own working drawings from published crucial measurements and photos.

Edited April 14, 2015 by jazz

[ian@stenochs]

Hi Jazz.

Thanks. I just wondered because a few of the kits that I have built have had some of their basic dimensions, and more often details, not as per prototype. I like to get things correct and always check against a GA and photos before and during a build.

Ian.

[Sandy Harper]

Hi Jazz.

Thanks. I just wondered because a few of the kits that I have built have had some of their basic dimensions, and more often details, not as per prototype. I like to get things correct and always check against a GA and photos before and during a build.

Ian.

Ian

It is always worthwhile remembering that a drawing was produced by the designer for what he 'thought' the build should be, but the constructor would always need to 'amend' the build in light of clearances issues etc. If you find a discrepancy between a GA drawing and a photograph, I usually take the side of the photograph, as that was the actual way it was built or in some cases, re-built. Take care with GA drawings, all may not be what it seems!

 

Regards

Sandy

 

(PS Sorry for hijack Ken)

[jazz]

No Problem, Sandy.  Always welcome your input. Ken

[mikemeg]

Ken,

 

I've been an avid follower of your thread for quite a while and, though I build 4mm etched kits, I have found your thread to be one of the most informative pieces I have ever seen on building locomotive kits.

 

One or two folk have commented, on my own threads, about the apparent speed (their view not mine) with which I can now build 4mm etched kits.

 

Having adopted many of your approaches and organisational tips, I could do no better than refer those same folks to your thread, here, and I hope you don't mind me so doing.

 

Your thread has been a great help to me and, I know, is and will be a great help to other kit builders.

 

Cheers and many thanks for a great insight.

 

Mike

[jazz]

Hi Mike. Many thanks for the very much appreciated comments. I have no problem in helping anyone to achieve a more productive and enjoyable experience with their modelling.

 

Very pleased to have helped you.

 

Another shortish day at the bench. The body is now well under way.  I have had a little problem getting it to sit properly on the chassis. This is due to having to lift the valve gear supports up to miss the coupling rods and centre driver. I will have to look at that tomorrow.

 

The builders are back for the final push to finish the refurbishments, then some decorating, new floor coverings and then back to normality. It's been three months of upheaval but worth the effort now we can see the end.

 

[2ManySpams]

Ken, smashing work on the loco. Can I ask about brakegear please?

 

Do you insulate the brakeblocks at all to prevent shorts of the wheels?

How far away from the wheels do the blocks have to be to prevent shorts? 

 

As you can probably tell I'll be fitting the brakes to ny LSWR O2 and am slightly concerned about the whole lot causing shorts.

 

Thanks in advance for any pointers.

[jazz]

I do not insulate the brakes. I keep side play to the absolute minimum on the wheels that will permit the loco to negotiate the expected radii on the layout. (My 7mm scale standard is for 6' radius.) That is the standard Peco point radius. I work on the theory if it goes through them, it will go anywhere unless otherwise advised. It's worked that way for me ever since I started building.

 

Ensure the brake blocks stay central to the tyre tread but err onto the outside of the tread if excessive side play is required for smaller radius curves or for 8 or more coupled locos.  You will need to watch for the brakes catching the coupling rods.

 

I leave no more than .5mm clearance for the brake blocks.   If, as on some cast blocks, thin them down to ensure they do not touch the tyre flange.

 

Remember I work in 7mm scale.