Upcoming O gauge sale - End of the line at Marsh Lane

[MarshLane]

I've been giving a little bit of thought to how I can improve the brake van, and two things have come to me, one a faint interior light to represent a flickering gas light, the other to see if there is someway I can get red lights on the side lamps.  

 

Does anyone have any thoughts on the former?  Im wondering if I can somehow get a grain of wheat bulb, or more likely some fibre-optic from inside to the lamp.  Both would be connected two a two function DCC decover in side the van.

 

Anyone any thoughts ... anyone done this before and have all the answers to the questions

Rich

[Simond]

You can certainly fit a decoder inside the van, you could go the whole hog, and arrange for the brakes to work...

 

But in considering coach lighting, I decided not to bother. I used warm white leds, with dropper resistors, driven straight from the track.

 

There's some description in my PD thread - I'll post a link

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=2042452

 

 

Best

Simon

Edited November 26, 2016 by Simond

[Jintyman]

I've been giving a little bit of thought to how I can improve the brake van, and two things have come to me, one a faint interior light to represent a flickering gas light, the other to see if there is someway I can get red lights on the side lamps.  

 

Does anyone have any thoughts on the former?  Im wondering if I can somehow get a grain of wheat bulb, or more likely some fibre-optic from inside to the lamp.  Both would be connected two a two function DCC decover in side the van.

 

Anyone any thoughts ... anyone done this before and have all the answers to the questions

Rich

 

 

 I've fitted a SMD LED attached to a piece of Fibre Optic inside a Slaters lost wax brass lamp.

 

Method shown here:     http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98974-talyllyn-junction-a-long-project-trackwork-wagons/page-10&do=findComment&comment=1926745

 

 

Final look here:       http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98974-talyllyn-junction-a-long-project-trackwork-wagons/page-13&do=findComment&comment=1948434

 

 

I haven't got around to fitting pick-ups to the van yet but I'm thinking fine sprung wire and worked through an ESU function only decoder with a good Stay-Alive.

 

I think that it's reasonably subtle and I've used a 10k resistor to bring the brightness down. I'll be able to lower the brightness a bit more if I need to using the decoder function adjustments. 

 

Hope that gives you some idea

 

Jinty

[Simond]

David,

 

They were good first time round. Time has not lessened their appeal!

 

Best

Simon

[MarshLane]

Simon,

Thanks - yes I've something similar in mind for the coaches when I get to them.  I used that LED strip material for the pit lighting in the shed.

 

Jinty,

That is superb!  Looks really good.  I think on the NE van, the lamps are on the side, so a little modification due to their, but that has shown me that its all doable!  Defiantly something to play with!  Do you have any preference on where to get the fibre optic tube from?

 

Rich

[MarshLane]

I've done a bit of work on the next point work tonight - you may remember this is the light rail crossover.  Taking onboard the comments from the first point, I've tried to do the 'vee' a bit differently this time, and I think I've got it!

 

 

I've taken the main line rail and filed it down to a point, so it butts up against the branch rail nice and smoothly.

 

 

I've then soldered the two together, and blunted the end off.

 

 

I think that looks a bit neater.  Took longer to do, but maybe that was because I was checking back to previous comments so much.  Still I'm quiet pleased for an hours work!

 

Rich

[Andrew P]

I've done a bit of work on the next point work tonight - you may remember this is the light rail crossover.  Taking onboard the comments from the first point, I've tried to do the 'vee' a bit differently this time, and I think I've got it!

 

 

I've taken the main line rail and filed it down to a point, so it butts up against the branch rail nice and smoothly.

 

 

I've then soldered the two together, and blunted the end off.

 

 

I think that looks a bit neater.  Took longer to do, but maybe that was because I was checking back to previous comments so much.  Still I'm quiet pleased for an hours work!

 

Rich

Looks really good to me Rich. Well done.

[Simond]

Hi Simon,

Thanks for your input, I'm struggling to visualise how you do it .. any chance of a picture?

 

Rich

 

Rich

 

Not the best photo, but as Valerie Singleton used to say...

 

"Here's one I made earlier"!

 

 

In this case I made a square ring to melt into the floor of the wagon, with a single "leg" to support the axle. The axleboxes are free to move at this end of the wagon, of course, fixed at the other end.

 

Hth

Simon

[MarshLane]

Looks really good to me Rich. Well done.

 

 

Cheers Andy,

 

I forgot to ask - was the totem that I sent you for your new O Gauge layout any good? 

 

Rich

Rich

 

Not the best photo, but as Valerie Singleton used to say...

 

"Here's one I made earlier"!

 

IMG_1002.JPG

 

In this case I made a square ring to melt into the floor of the wagon, with a single "leg" to support the axle. The axleboxes are free to move at this end of the wagon, of course, fixed at the other end.

 

Hth

Simon

 

Hi Simon,

Ah! I see now, so the single "leg" is pushing the axle downwards and acting like a spring?  May be a silly question, but why only at one end?  Do both axles not need to be dealt with the same way?

 

Thanks for that.

 

Rich

[Andrew P]

Cheers Andy,

 

I forgot to ask - was the totem that I sent you for your new O Gauge layout any good? 

 

Rich

 

Rich

BRILLIANT THANKS, with all the agro of the flood I forgot to thank you, Sorry about that Rich.

 

I will put it on post 1 in exchange for the one I did, but a bit tired now, so tomorrow.

[Simond]

Rich, NO!!!

 

 

The whole point of compensation is to resolve the number of wheels on the vehicle to three points of support, like a three-legged-stool. The two fixed axle boxes at one end provide two of the three. The central pivot at the other end provides the third. If you do the same at both ends, it will rock from side to side.

 

Edit - should have said, the leg might act as a spring, but it really doesn't have to. It could be completely rigid, as long as the axle can rock from side to side.

 

If you have a Google, on compensation, there are a number of articles. Brian Clapperton of ABC gears wrote a good piece if you can find it - I think it's on the ABC website. There are others, explaining the pros and cons of various ways of compensating locos, which, of course, tend to more complex wheel arrangements. Well worth a read. If you're interested, you can go further, look up CSB or "continuous springy beam" suspension, but that's primarily for locos.

 

Hth

Simon

Edited November 26, 2016 by Simond

[PjKing1]

I  just didn't realise what you can do in larger scales, lamps on brake vans and flickering stoves, wonderful!

 

Cheers

[Jintyman]

Do you have any preference on where to get the fibre optic tube from?

 

Rich

 

Hi Rich,

 

I get the fibre optic off that famous auction site, such as here:    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-MTR-FIBRE-OPTIC-STRAND-FILAMENT-LIGHT-GUIDE-3-mm-Dia-/262726051602?hash=item3d2bb16712

 

I've been having a bit of a trial of different SMD LED's inside tail/head lamps of differing varieties. I'm going to be milling out a 3mm slot in a plastic headlamp (Slaters I think), so I'll see how that goes, but I've got to say the Staters brass ones are great to work with as they're hollow.

I'm going to also try a Modelu one when they are available too, as they are very finely done.

 

Jinty

[MarshLane]

Cheers Andy,

 

BRILLIANT THANKS, with all the agro of the flood I forgot to thank you, Sorry about that Rich.

 

I will put it on post 1 in exchange for the one I did, but a bit tired now, so tomorrow.

  

 

Andy, No problem at all. I know you've had far more important things to think about lately! Just pleased it was some use!

 

Rich, NO!!!

The whole point of compensation is to resolve the number of wheels on the vehicle to three points of support, like a three-legged-stool. The two fixed axle boxes at one end provide two of the three. The central pivot at the other end provides the third. If you do the same at both ends, it will rock from side to side.

Hth

Simon

 

 

Ah! I'd completely misunderstood what compensation did! I thought it was about a small amount of springing to allow the wagon to ride smoother. I now see what you mean! Thanks for the explanation. I'll have a look at that.

 

 

I  just didn't realise what you can do in larger scales, lamps on brake vans and flickering stoves, wonderful!

 

 

Hmm, your now making me think about a little smoke unit in the van during the winter months to show the stove is alight!!!

 

 

 

Hi Rich,

 

I get the fibre optic off that famous auction site, such as here:    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-MTR-FIBRE-OPTIC-STRAND-FILAMENT-LIGHT-GUIDE-3-mm-Dia-/262726051602?hash=item3d2bb16712

 

I've been having a bit of a trial of different SMD LED's inside tail/head lamps of differing varieties. I'm going to be milling out a 3mm slot in a plastic headlamp (Slaters I think), so I'll see how that goes, but I've got to say the Staters brass ones are great to work with as they're hollow.

I'm going to also try a Modelu one when they are available too, as they are very finely done.

 

Jinty

Thanks Minty, I'm going to have to have a play about with these things! So much to do, oh if only I could come up with the right lottery numbers, then work could get jotted! More modelling time!

 

Cheers

Rich

[Andrew P]

Minty? that's a NEW ONE hahhahha.      

[Jintyman]

Minty? that's a NEW ONE hahhahha.      

 

 

That's Rich's smellchucker.................

 

Minty Jinty

[Tove]

That's Rich's smellchucker.................

 

Minty Jinty

Beware that might stick......Minty......

 

Brian.

[MarshLane]

I keep saying to David, he needs to change his nickname! My spellchecker is obviously LNER and not LMS as it changes Jinty to Minty everytine! Either that or it is secretly munching After Eight mints through its USB port!

 

Rich

[MarshLane]

 I've fitted a SMD LED attached to a piece of Fibre Optic inside a Slaters lost wax brass lamp.

 

Method shown here:     http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98974-talyllyn-junction-a-long-project-trackwork-wagons/page-10&do=findComment&comment=1926745

 

 

Final look here:       http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98974-talyllyn-junction-a-long-project-trackwork-wagons/page-13&do=findComment&comment=1948434

 

 

I haven't got around to fitting pick-ups to the van yet but I'm thinking fine sprung wire and worked through an ESU function only decoder with a good Stay-Alive.

 

I think that it's reasonably subtle and I've used a 10k resistor to bring the brightness down. I'll be able to lower the brightness a bit more if I need to using the decoder function adjustments. 

 

Hope that gives you some idea

 

Jinty

 

 

Jinty (I corrected it this time!!)

 

Just to say thanks - I've ordered some lamps from Slaters, and various electrical bits off eBay, so I'll be having a play this weekend hopefully.  Thanks for the advice and links to your images, hope you don't mind me copying, erm, ah, ermm, I mean adapting your methods to suit mine!

 

Off to research simple DCC two-function decoders, and ways of making an LED flicker to appear like gas light!

 

Rich

[MarshLane]

Quick question ... I'm moving forward with the big permanent layout that is going in the loft. The shed idea has been abandoned, after measuring up the biggest width that can go in is 9.5", so logically 9" maximum diameter, which is making for 4'6" radius outer curve, and its too tight.  So back to the loft!

 

However, the loft is going to be two level, with the lower level holding the fiddle yards and the upper level being the scenic area.  With the fiddle yard being all out of sight, I'm going to use Marcway points to pus things on a fair way.  Having used them on my test board along the office wall, they have worked well and not encountered any problems.  However, I need to design this in Templot to make sure it all works.

 

So the query is ... does anyone know what the radius, vee etc.. of Marcway's pre-built range is so that they can be accurately represented in Templot?  I don't want to go down a bespoke option for this, as the track work is out of sight and it adds to the cost, so need to try and use their 'off-the-shelf' range, but also need to make sure I can make everything!  Any thoughts/info/suggestions are welcomed.

 

Rich

[mightbe]

Hi Rich,

 

Have you considered using the same template multiple times and building the hidden pointwork yourself in copperclad? I think you'll find it's a very easy and fast means of producing track, and miles cheaper. If I'm honest, it should be better running too due to you using a finer standard.

 

Quentin

 

P.S., the new V looks to be a big improvement! I would recommend not laying your timbers before the point and crossing work is done, as it'll be easier to see how well they match up. Or, do what I do and print a separate template and make a rudimentary jig with it using some popsicle sticks. I refer you to the first pic here: http://www.norgrove.me.uk/points.html

[peter220950]

 

Off to research simple DCC two-function decoders, and ways of making an LED flicker to appear like gas light!

 

Rich

 

 

Rich,

 

Might I suggest you look at one of these??

 

 

In reality it's much more yellow than appears here, I've just connected it via a 3v button battery but for serious use a current limiting resistor would be a better bet to run it from the decoder.

 

And the source of these wonders? - Flickering Tea lights from Ebay and the like, there's a small chip in them that gives the flicker, and best of all they are dirt cheap.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SmartLight-YELLOW-Flameless-LED-Battery-Tea-Light-Candles-Tealights-KID-PET-SAFE-/381487500262?var=&hash=item58d26d4be6:m:mn_R44HeHx8fnL_q5I6so3A

 

or try your local Pound stores

 

Peter

[SouthernBlue80s]

Very much enjoyed this thread and the pictures.

[MarshLane]

Evening all,

See this is why I really like rmWeb - there's always somebody who will freely and happily pop up with advice!  Thanks guys.

 

Hi Rich,

 

Have you considered using the same template multiple times and building the hidden pointwork yourself in copperclad? I think you'll find it's a very easy and fast means of producing track, and miles cheaper. If I'm honest, it should be better running too due to you using a finer standard.

 

Quentin

 

P.S., the new V looks to be a big improvement! I would recommend not laying your timbers before the point and crossing work is done, as it'll be easier to see how well they match up. Or, do what I do and print a separate template and make a rudimentary jig with it using some popsicle sticks. I refer you to the first pic here: http://www.norgrove.me.uk/points.html

 

Hi Quentin,

Many thanks.  Strangely I found it a lot harder this time than last! But I think alot of that is me getting use to things.  I have got a second copy of the template printed, which I'm using for checking various things, but as I've yet to have a response from the S7 Group, I think I'm going to have a go at making my own template for 1:6, 1:7 and 1:8 vees.  Im assuming that each size always comes off at the same angle?

 

With regards to your first point, actually, no I hadn't, but that could well be a good idea - well done that man!  What kind of soldering iron is needed to solder to copper clad?  Mine took a while to heat the rails to allow the solder to flow when I did that vee - I think the rails are acting as heat sink, so suspect I need a more powerful iron?  I'll have to look into copper clad track work a bit more.

 

 

Rich,

 

Might I suggest you look at one of these??

 

 

In reality it's much more yellow than appears here, I've just connected it via a 3v button battery but for serious use a current limiting resistor would be a better bet to run it from the decoder.

 

And the source of these wonders? - Flickering Tea lights from Ebay and the like, there's a small chip in them that gives the flicker, and best of all they are dirt cheap.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SmartLight-YELLOW-Flameless-LED-Battery-Tea-Light-Candles-Tealights-KID-PET-SAFE-/381487500262?var=&hash=item58d26d4be6:m:mn_R44HeHx8fnL_q5I6so3A

 

or try your local Pound stores

 

Peter

 

 

Peter,

You are a genius - I didn't know such things exists.  I've been looking at little circuits and chips that will do Flickering, but it never occurred to me to see if you could get a flickering LED.  I've ordered a couple, so we'll give them a try.  

 

Can anyone recommend a good resource (Book or website) for working out what resistor you want for different applications. Im sure I've seen a table online somewhere, that shows the output from each type/level of resister when given 12v input, but I cannot find it at all.

 

Rich

[Jintyman]

 

Can anyone recommend a good resource (Book or website) for working out what resistor you want for different applications. Im sure I've seen a table online somewhere, that shows the output from each type/level of resister when given 12v input, but I cannot find it at all.

 

Rich

 

 

I use the 'HOLD IT AND SEE' method (hold LED leg on rail with one hand, hold other leg attached to resistor with other hand and touch other end of resistor on other rail!), but I do find that most LED's will give a nice subtle glow with a 10K resistor attached.

 

By the way, I purchase my very fine wire from SWD, they do it in all the decoder colours and it's great for hiding away with being so thin.

 

Jinty