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Hi Chris

 

Your Nissen huts look great and are a good advertisement for home casting, which is something I'd like to have a go at when I can think of a suitable item that needs replicating.

 

You've modelled yours in low relief, but out of interest, how long would (or could), they be in real life please?

 

 

Regards

 

Dan

 

Edit: Think I've answered my own question - lots of information here....

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissen_hut

 

and here....

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Nissen+hut+dimensions&client=tablet-android-samsung&prmd=isnv&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&fir=3w6fTGjEOnsT_M%253A%252CzN7wFr9Fwl9A0M%252C_%253B80SbDZjRFU3k1M%253A%252CkAWj5JKZIqqC0M%252C_%253BGNGalTBHGvCp8M%253A%252CoknTuAuPz5u05M%252C_%253BgLPdhJZXPNj2uM%253A%252CzsIl31YvHeWh1M%252C_%253BMgF6n1Fh56P_XM%253A%252C3SvzfM41cZ-Q_M%252C_%253Br8cR-8OUU1Qv_M%253A%252CzN7wFr9Fwl9A0M%252C_%253BnkgdkKy9uR2XeM%253A%252C3SvzfM41cZ-Q_M%252C_%253BafnuFne4Wh-rSM%253A%252Cxk7LxhzNxiPWZM%252C_%253B4Kgh2T-N34YgeM%253A%252CXFqAmW9Ujw49mM%252C_%253BIL4g82O0f6AdWM%253A%252CG-7hBA3jZRqTEM%252C_&usg=__Nn8U4k2EzP0yiv95mMmvHgIm2pE%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2p8TtnKfXAhWE2xoKHdNNCsgQ7AkIMA&biw=1280&bih=800Dan,

 

Dan,

You have. A full length version would be very heavy and expensive to cast without a substantial void. Nikki Wilkes is working on a kit that will be a combination of laser-cuwood and other materials.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

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War Department Fowler 0-4-0DM MONTY shunts a very clean Warwell at Tonfanau Camp. The new Hatton's model is excellent quality, good value and we haven't had to wait years and years for it. I'm buying some more and just need some Saladins and Saracens for loads.

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George Pig, Peppa's younger brother, with a toad. Whatever next? A lady pig and a frog? We will have to wait and see. 


George Pig, Peppa's younger brother, with a toad. Whatever next? A lady pig and a frog? We will have to wait and see. 

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I am test-building the new nissen hut kit designed by Nikki Wilkes for Buzz Models. Nikki and I have been discussing this project for quite a while and the design is the same as my cast resin low-relief nissen huts visible in the background.

 

The basic framework is up and shown close to its eventual location at Tonfanau Camp. The kit is a combination of laser-cut plywood, mdf and plain and corrugated sheet plasticard. The parts for the framework are quite fragile, but once locked and glued together the frame is firm and robust. Stay tuned to this channel for sitreps.

 

Regards,

 

CK

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Progress with the trial build of the prototype Nikki Wilkes Buzz Models nissen hut kit. The false roof is on and this was the hardest part of the construction so far. I rolled the sheet of plain plasticard inside three rolls of packing tape and blasted it with a hairdryer (not mine as I have no need of one) on maximum heat to get some curvature. The trick then is to securely attach one of the bottom edges and then roll and glue the roof in place. I used UHU ultra-fast and thin superglue that comes in 3gm tubes from Poundland. The MDF and ply is porous so I primed it with a coat of the superglue before applying another and attaching the roof. The next stage us to cut and attach the corrugated plasticard sheets.

 

Stand by for the next sitrep.

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Chris,

 

If you buy one of those rather posh bottles of something amber, (and I don’t mean Foster’s), you may become the proud possessor of a tin can with a removable lid - if you then ask your good lady for her reject leg wear, you can secure the plasticard to the tin, in a curve, pour boiling water in and over the tin, allow the card to assume the curve and then pour cold water over it.

 

Remove curved plasticard, dry tights, store in tin for next time.

 

I’ve done a few coach roofs, I guess your huts would be similar, though you seem to have managed it without my suggestions. They look most believable.

 

Best

Simon

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Chris,

 

If you buy one of those rather posh bottles of something amber, (and I don’t mean Foster’s), you may become the proud possessor of a tin can with a removable lid - if you then ask your good lady for her reject leg wear, you can secure the plasticard to the tin, in a curve, pour boiling water in and over the tin, allow the card to assume the curve and then pour cold water over it.

 

Remove curved plasticard, dry tights, store in tin for next time.

 

I’ve done a few coach roofs, I guess your huts would be similar, though you seem to have managed it without my suggestions. They look most believable.

 

Best

Simon

Simon,

Your suggestion is worth a try.  The next dilemma are the sheets of wriggly tin. Do I measure and cut before or after I have induced a curve? 

 

Chris 

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Depends what you’re using. My wriggly tin experience is limited to card, the roof of my coal stage, and a little resin, a couple of GW huts which lurk (and relocate themselves in tardis fashion) around PD loco.

 

If I were using card, I’d laser to size, steam it slightly and glue on the structure. Need to think about the overlaps.

 

I’m guessing you’ll use plastic - I fear my hot water tin may destroy the wriggles so probably not an option

 

What about pressed metal? I believe it’s available, but I have no idea of costs, suppliers etc. Would certainly be possible to form them without flattening, but might need a jig of some sort.

 

More thought required...

 

Best

Simon

Edited by Simond
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Chris. Get mitre Mait, from you local DIY or merchant. It is super glue and a spray on catalyst. It's designed for porous material, we used it for joining cornice etc on kitchen. It grabs hard and fast.

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Depends what you’re using. My wriggly tin experience is limited to card, the roof of my coal stage, and a little resin, a couple of GW huts which lurk (and relocate themselves in tardis fashion) around PD loco.

 

If I were using card, I’d laser to size, steam it slightly and glue on the structure. Need to think about the overlaps.

 

I’m guessing you’ll use plastic - I fear my hot water tin may destroy the wriggles so probably not an option

 

What about pressed metal? I believe it’s available, but I have no idea of costs, suppliers etc. Would certainly be possible to form them without flattening, but might need a jig of some sort.

 

More thought required...

 

Best

Simon

 

 

Chris. Get mitre Mait, from you local DIY or merchant. It is super glue and a spray on catalyst. It's designed for porous material, we used it for joining cornice etc on kitchen. It grabs hard and fast.

 

 

.

Kitwood Hill Models may have what you need although I note from the front page of the website that the business is closed until the end of the month due to a move of premises.

 

Corrugated Iron here http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/o-scale-corrugated-iron-industrial-grade/

 

 

.

 

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. The kit is supplied with corrugated plasticard so I will try it. I have experience of building corrugated iron-clad structures with plasticard, metal and card. The following photos show Cwm Bach colliery engine shed (plasticard), Cwm Bach goods lock up (metal) and a prototype Intentio GWR pagoda kit (card over MDF). Each has its pros and cons. I think I need to tone down the rust on the goods shed with a touch of weathering powder. Hopefully, I can make progress today, but I'm on a deadline to finish a signal for my club's layout.

 

Regards,

 

CK

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I have finished the test construction of the forthcoming Buzz Models nissen hut kit designed by Nikki Wilkes . I will add some details including door knob, stove-pipe vents and lamp above the door. Then it is off to the paintshop, but don't expect a rusty old wreck as this structure will be a well-maintained specimen on the Army's Tonfanau Camp base.

 

Stand by your beds.

 

CK

 

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Like the hut Chris ,happy memories of doing my "basic " living in one of those, it got so cold we used to send someone up on the roof and fill the chimney with firewood from the top  to get it going better !!! ..... :senile:

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I am test-building the new nissen hut kit designed by Nikki Wilkes for Buzz Models. Nikki and I have been discussing this project for quite a while and the design is the same as my cast resin low-relief nissen huts visible in the background.

 

The basic framework is up and shown close to its eventual location at Tonfanau Camp. The kit is a combination of laser-cut plywood, mdf and plain and corrugated sheet plasticard. The parts for the framework are quite fragile, but once locked and glued together the frame is firm and robust. Stay tuned to this channel for sitreps.

 

Regards,

 

CK

 

 

Progress with the trial build of the prototype Nikki Wilkes Buzz Models nissen hut kit. The false roof is on and this was the hardest part of the construction so far. I rolled the sheet of plain plasticard inside three rolls of packing tape and blasted it with a hairdryer (not mine as I have no need of one) on maximum heat to get some curvature. The trick then is to securely attach one of the bottom edges and then roll and glue the roof in place. I used UHU ultra-fast and thin superglue that comes in 3gm tubes from Poundland. The MDF and ply is porous so I primed it with a coat of the superglue before applying another and attaching the roof. The next stage us to cut and attach the corrugated plasticard sheets.

 

Stand by for the next sitrep.

 

 

I have finished the test construction of the forthcoming Buzz Models nissen hut kit designed by Nikki Wilkes . I will add some details including door knob, stove-pipe vents and lamp above the door. Then it is off to the paintshop, but don't expect a rusty old wreck as this structure will be a well-maintained specimen on the Army's Tonfanau Camp base.

 

Stand by your beds.

 

CK

 

 

I have painted the prototype of the forthcoming 7mm scale Buzz Models nissen hut kit designed by Nikki Wilkes. The main colour is British Army Deep Bronze Green let down very slightly with a smidgeon of matt white. The lamp over the door is from a Ratio 4mm scale platform lamp. The fire buckets are from Minerva and the door knob is a 7mm scale short brass locomotive handrail knob filled with solder. The sign on the door was created on my computer. The four stripe colour scheme is that of the Army's "All Arms Junior Leaders' Regiment", which was based at the real Tonfanau Camp from 1959 until 1966. The hut will bedded in later when I have finished other groundwork in the area.

 

Overall, this is a very good kit. The only tricky part was rolling and attaching the false roof upon which the corrugated iron sheets are laid. It took longer to build than expected, but this was a test build to prove the model and instructions so I took my time and tried different methods. My suggestions have been passed on to the designer. I have another one to build in due course, which I am confident will go up much faster than this one. The kit deserves to do well.  I have no commercial or personal connection with the designer and proprietor of Buzz Models.

 

Officer on parade. Dismissed.

 

CK

Hi Chris,

 

Lovely work, not sure why I wasn't getting alerts for your cracking thread, I've reset them, as I have missed out.

 

I was chatting with Buzz models about Nissen huts and the possibility of doing a variation of their kit in low relief, but we couldn't make up our minds which orientation of low relief, yet they seemed open to the idea.

 

Youve done a cracking job of the kit Chris.

 

In the real world, I may have mentioned before, during the war father spent some time living in a NH, then more time when he was in the army and we had one as a workshop (toasted sandwiches and marshmallows for lunch!).......happy days.

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME

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