Jump to content
 

Stoke Courtenay


checkrail
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, A Murphy said:

they seem to always be made up of whatever came to hand and whatever was attached from connecting services, thus P1 and later P2 vehicles, mixed in with ex-LNWR and occasionally ex-Midland vehicles

Indeed, that seems to be the case.  Amusing to read recently in another thread that the GWR (in pre-grouping days I think) had an instruction that only stock of the best type should be used on other companies' lines.  This "showing off to the neighbours" attitude doesn't seem to have been reciprocated!

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, A Murphy said:

they seem to always be made up of whatever came to hand and whatever was attached from connecting services, thus P1 and later P2 vehicles, mixed in with ex-LNWR and occasionally ex-Midland vehicles

Indeed, that seems to be the case.  Amusing to read recently in another thread that the GWR (in pre-grouping days I think) had an instruction that only stock of the best type should be used on other companies' lines.  This "showing off to the neighbours" attitude doesn't seem to have been reciprocated!

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

 

Cant comment on the 1930s, but do have plenty of data on the 1947 services including LMS stock, so for the shorter portions there was a fair bit of variation.  LMS coaches are in red 

0645 Bristol to Penzance (conveying LMS portion from the north)

Sorting Van L22, BCK, CK, TK, TK, BTK, BTK CK,TK

 

1450 Manchester – Plymouth

BTK, TK, TK, CK, CK, BTK, BTK, CK, CK, TK, TK, BTK

 

1535 Liverpool – Penzance

BCK, BCK, BTK, RC, CK, BTK  (restaurant alternated between GW and LMS), I think the rest of this service from a GWR perspective must have either terminated at Newton Abbot or gone on to Kingswear.  But I havent made a note of that.

 

1830 Paddington – Plymouth (picking up an LMS portion at Bristol)

BTK, CK, TK, BCK, BTK, CK, BTK

  • Informative/Useful 5
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

One unusual thing I noticed about the two Hornby Stanier coaches I bought were that the bogies were different at each end of the coach.  Mid-way along the bogie sideframe at one end are two pairs of double rows of vertical rivets; at the other two vertical reinforcing steel struts.   Anyone know what that's all about?

P1060661.JPG.6ee66e2ff525a4a8216c74239bb33107.JPG

 

P1060662.JPG.c89dff67b7d9cc9bca352b83c4a3104e.JPG

 

Yours,

Puzzled of Stoke Courtenay.

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, checkrail said:

One unusual thing I noticed about the two Hornby Stanier coaches I bought were that the bogies were different at each end of the coach.  Mid-way along the bogie sideframe at one end are two pairs of double rows of vertical rivets; at the other two vertical reinforcing steel struts.   Anyone know what that's all about?

 

 

Yours,

Puzzled of Stoke Courtenay.

 

Hi John, Hornby seem to have produced both the rivetted and welded variants of the LMS bogies, and you've got an example of each.  

I'm pretty sure they've always issued their coaches with matching bogies at each end, but I dare say stranger things happened on the prototype.  The books lead me to believe the LMS built coaches with each type of bogie concurrently.

 

  • Informative/Useful 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
5 hours ago, checkrail said:

In the meantime, more photos.

X7.jpg.55cc99830aa3aa6e06a20ea71de598d3.jpg

 

That photo comes in handy for a question, what did you use to hide the base of the Dapol signals?  And did you do it per or post installation?

 

im in to minds as to whether I want to be able I remove them, (which means having a finish that isn’t attached to the surrounding scenics)

  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
12 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

what did you use to hide the base of the Dapol signals?  And did you do it per or post installation?

Rich, I let the bases into cut-outs in the bottom layer of dense foam underlay (the track sits on cork on top of that) and blended it in with the local ground cover (ash, earth powder etc.).  They're removable in an emergency - I'd just have to undo the plastic nut under the baseboard, disconnect the wires and break through the ground cover with a craft knife or similar.  But  I'm pleased to report that in almost five years I haven't so far had to do this.  

P1060665.JPG.73256a5d871cfd567e7666aac78ed425.JPG

 

P1060666.JPG.a49afe886ca7fe77cd107210ff6c436c.JPG

 

I didn't allow for the signals when planning the cutting and embankments, so those signals reside in little reinforced dugouts in the slope.  I've seen evidence of similar prototypes.

P1060667.JPG.5b2ddc681eb7f3a1a7000a9192eb15cb.JPG

 

P1060669.JPG.50cd7dc912fdeb96973b10747bba83ed.JPG

 

John C

  • Like 16
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, St Enodoc said:

As I mentioned before, they will need a good deal of work to bring them up to the standard of the Hornby Staniers.

Yes, I guess so.  But might make a nice future project after I've had a break from coaches?

  • Like 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
13 hours ago, Jamie said:

Hi John, Hornby seem to have produced both the rivetted and welded variants of the LMS bogies, and you've got an example of each.  

That would explain it (and how meticulously accurate of Hornby to provide two bogie variants for the same pattern of coach!).

 

It just may be that of the two coaches I recently bought (a third and a brake third) one came with the rivetted type, one with the welded, and that I've inadvertently swapped a couple round while I had all four bogies off the vehicles.

  • Like 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, checkrail said:

Yes, I guess so.  But might make a nice future project after I've had a break from coaches?

I was thinking about getting a couple of these to tart up to add some variety to my Hornby Stonier stock, so I'd be interested to see what improvements you'd make, John. 

  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
10 minutes ago, checkrail said:

Yes, I guess so.  But might make a nice future project after I've had a break from coaches?

I was going to suggest sticking with the period 3 coaches for now and then replacing them with something more suitable (be that more kits or tarted up Bachmann Period 1s) at some point in the future (once the more interesting GWR coaches are complete). 

 

11 minutes ago, checkrail said:

Rich, I let the bases into cut-outs in the bottom layer of dense foam underlay (the track sits on cork on top of that) and blended it in with the local ground cover (ash, earth powder etc.).  They're removable in an emergency - I'd just have to undo the plastic nut under the baseboard, disconnect the wires and break through the ground cover with a craft knife or similar.  But  I'm pleased to report that in almost five years I haven't so far had to do this.  

 

I didn't allow for the signals when planning the cutting and embankments, so those signals reside in little reinforced dugouts in the slope.  I've seen evidence of similar prototypes.

 

John C

Thanks, I think its going to take a little more thinking in that case as I havent got anything to really cut them into.  I think the answer is going to be chamfering the edge of the base plate and then blending in with a little plaster before covering with the top covering.   I think I am running out of excuses to put off getting the signals wired up (at least to a temporary panel)  

 

I made exactly the same mistake on the embankment coming into Brent, and went for the same solution!   

  • Like 3
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
4 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

was going to suggest sticking with the period 3 coaches for now and then replacing them with something more suitable (be that more kits or tarted up Bachmann Period 1s) at some point in the future (once the more interesting GWR coaches are complete). 

Think that's exactly what I'll do.  Love your last bit in brackets - we're not biased are we?!

 

Re the signals I guess you've seen my 2016 thread 'Improving Dapol GWR signals'?

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
2 minutes ago, checkrail said:

Think that's exactly what I'll do.  Love your last bit in brackets - we're not biased are we?!

 

Re the signals I guess you've seen my 2016 thread 'Improving Dapol GWR signals'?

 

 

I have, though I probably need to re read it.  I recall Following it while adapting a square post distant that I had bought in error into a Home with sight board.  Thankfully the other two signals being installed in the first batch are both round post (though I think I’m right in saying they need to have the posts painted white)

 

edit: I meant to add, what colour have you used for the track weathering?  I’m not entirely happy with the shade I’ve used so far.

Edited by The Fatadder
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

I meant to add, what colour have you used for the track weathering?  

I started off with the intention of painting the track and then ballasting it (Carr's ballast) before toning it all down a bit.  But I made such a mess of my first attempts at ballasting that once I'd chipped it all off I'd chipped most of the paint off the sleepers as well! So i resorted to spraying the whole shooting match with Halford's grey primer before misting with various other browny-grey colours from rattle cans.  (I seem to remember that Humbrol 29 had a role, as did some brushed-on Precision paints track colours - weathered sleepers, rusty rails etc.)  Rail sides were painted with Precision sleeper grime.  (Precision 'rusty rails' was far too orangey and glaring - subtle is best. For more on this see my 2 Sept 2016 post on p5 of this thread.

  • Informative/Useful 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

To get my Modelu lamps to stand up straight I push a very tiny amount of blutac in the base slit and that seems to work.

 

The power of cloning, purlin/light gone but not the strange headlamp

 

Y4.jpg.180130784ee39124ed823c7e60796235.jpg.9bff7a2b888f7d79dff10d9bf6ae4130.jpg

  • Like 8
  • Informative/Useful 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...