RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 15, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2016 Hello everyone, I'm been meaning for a while to try my hand at painting a model and finally I worked up the nerve to do it. My test subject was an old Mainline GWR 56xx loco. My plan is to paint it in wartime black. I am not going to strip the old paint off since it has been suggested that it is not necessary to do so. I do not think any primer would be necessary either since black is a base colour in itself. The below pictures are the model before painting started and the painting in progress. Please note that this is as far as I have gone so far. Any comments, suggestions, criticisms, etc are always appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 It's always worth preparing any surface that you are going to paint on, either by rubbing down, or priming with a can of spray primer. This will help smooth out any imperfections in the underlying finish and show up any blemishes. The more time you spend on preparation, the better the overall finish. Like the original GWR bleeding through... Why not try a can of Matt or semi Matt spray paint, you can get beautiful results quickly and easily Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 I would have removed the lettering first as it is showing through. Other than that looks good can't see any brush marks which is good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 15, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2016 It's always worth preparing any surface that you are going to paint on, either by rubbing down, or priming with a can of spray primer. This will help smooth out any imperfections in the underlying finish and show up any blemishes. The more time you spend on preparation, the better the overall finish. Like the original GWR bleeding through... Why not try a can of Matt or semi Matt spray paint, you can get beautiful results quickly and easily Wouldn't it just go away with a second coat? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 Wouldn't it just go away with a second coat? You might well find it will make marks or blemishes etc even worse The golden rule to remember is preparation is everything, the better the perp....the better the finish. Great results can be achieved with spray cans, especially for all over black Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 One thing of note is as you are doing this as wartime black livery it would have been applied reasonably quickly and roughly plus with some weathering it still has the potential to look good. Dont feel down or put off, we all start by learning and it takes practice and lots of mistakes to get to the professional look. My first attempts looked like Id used a plasterers trowel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lapford34102 Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 Everyone has to start somewhere and so far that looks quite good. Have to agree that removing the GW logos would have helped - something simple as oven cleaner would do it successfully. Think you're brave brush painting Tamiya, not noted for it's brushability. Is it gloss or matt ? If spraying is an issue then if you haven't got one a "flatty" brush is useful. Isn't there some saying about every long journey starting with a single step? Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 15, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2016 It's always worth preparing any surface that you are going to paint on, either by rubbing down, or priming with a can of spray primer. This will help smooth out any imperfections in the underlying finish and show up any blemishes. The more time you spend on preparation, the better the overall finish. Like the original GWR bleeding through... Why not try a can of Matt or semi Matt spray paint, you can get beautiful results quickly and easily What about rubbing the model in 70% IPA before starting? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric709 Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 The factory printed decals can be removed in numerous ways from rubbing off with t-cut, carefully scraping with a scalpel, white spirit etc. A good wash down with fairy liquid and you're good to go. As others have said the prep is the key part Thankfully we never stop learning and this forum will provide plenty of hints and tips I for one think that it's a pretty good first attempt especially considering its brush painted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevescan Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 As has been said above we all have to start somewhere and it is great that you have taken the plunge, it is always best to have a nice smooth clean base and a primer gives the top coat something to grip and you will be able to achieve a nice finish using thin coats which will allow the detail to look sharper and more visible, great stuff keep on practising and trying out techniques, have fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium rab Posted July 16, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2016 The golden rule to remember is preparation is everything, the better the perp....the better the finish. Failing to prepare is preparing to fail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 What about rubbing the model in 70% IPA before starting? Yes you could do, or you could give the model a scrub with an old scrubbing brush and something like Cif etc. This will provide a good key for anything that you do on Top. Good start so far, but maybe worth trying on the other side of the model if you haven't painted it yet. Let us know how you get on...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 I would ask the question of what effect is being aimed at? If this is for a wartime utility repaint - simply to keep the rust off - and then to reflect subsequent wear and tear at wartime levels of upkeep, you are going about it the right way. The former lettering showing through well worn overpaint is a nice effect if you can achieve it. Photographs will repay study to show what sort of exterior condition locos could be in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 This is one I bought on eBay that had been brush painted from green to black. Close up you can see the brush marks, although I can't see them in the photo. From normal viewing distances you can't see them in real life. So it's worth persevering. Have you thought of painting something simpler or less important first, to get some practice? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 A very good start, photos can make blemishes stand out more than they do in real live, is the GWR that bad ? As a war time quick rush job might have left traces ? Over to people that were their or have the info. But the main mistake with black locos is to have the smokebox the same black as the body. Please look at the real thing or pictures, the smokebox is all ways a heat resistant flat paint. As the paint goes straight on to hot metal of the smokebox, the boiler paint has the luxury of going on cladding not directly onto the boiler I the paint is Never a simi matt pure black, it all ways has a greyish tint, your loco will look better for it being done this way Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TheSignalEngineer Posted July 16, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 16, 2016 Wish I had a photo of them, but at Monument Lane c1960 there were a couple of Midland 0-6-0s where the edges of LMS numbering was clearly visible as a step line in the painwork. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Reorte Posted July 16, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2016 Wish I had a photo of them, but at Monument Lane c1960 there were a couple of Midland 0-6-0s where the edges of LMS numbering was clearly visible as a step line in the painwork. Similarly in a couple of old photos I've seen Big Four lettering peering through quickly-applied BR paint, so GWR showing through strikes me as probably good rather than bad. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Similarly in a couple of old photos I've seen Big Four lettering peering through quickly-applied BR paint, so GWR showing through strikes me as probably good rather than bad. Trouble is with the BR examples is we are talking war time ie still GWR not a BR slap dash paint job, not that it proberly makes much difference But with the amount of rivet counting going on on forums best to find out! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 17, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 17, 2016 Everyone has to start somewhere and so far that looks quite good. Have to agree that removing the GW logos would have helped - something simple as oven cleaner would do it successfully. Think you're brave brush painting Tamiya, not noted for it's brushability. Is it gloss or matt ? If spraying is an issue then if you haven't got one a "flatty" brush is useful. Isn't there some saying about every long journey starting with a single step? Stu XF-1 Flat Black. If Tamiya is a terrible paint, why do all the railway stores carry it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 XF-1 Flat Black. If Tamiya is a terrible paint, why do all the railway stores carry it? Tamiya is not a terrible paint...it is actually a very good paint. But its formulation makes it better for spraying out of an airbrush rather than using a paintbrush....it tends to leave brushmarks. Regular Vallejo is a good brush paint and I have had very good results using both ModelMaster and Humbrol enamels with paintbrushes...but I tend to stick with acrylics now. The WarGames line of paints do well with brushes also. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 17, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 17, 2016 Tamiya is not a terrible paint...it is actually a very good paint. But its formulation makes it better for spraying out of an airbrush rather than using a paintbrush....it tends to leave brushmarks. Regular Vallejo is a good brush paint and I have had very good results using both ModelMaster and Humbrol enamels with paintbrushes...but I tend to stick with acrylics now. The WarGames line of paints do well with brushes also. What about Humbrol Acrylics? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 What about Humbrol Acrylics? Very good, just remember to give them a really good stir first. I made a home made stirrer using a cheap whizzy coffee frother from a pound shop. Works brilliantly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Roger Sunderland Posted July 17, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 17, 2016 Very good, just remember to give them a really good stir first. I made a home made stirrer using a cheap whizzy coffee frother from a pound shop. Works brilliantly. Sorry, have to disagree, worst paints I've ever come across and not in the same league as Vallejo or Lifecolour acrylics. I have to say I'm somewhat confused. Go to Halfords and buy a can of grey primer and a can of Matt or satin black. Simples. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lapford34102 Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Sorry, have to disagree, worst paints I've ever come across and not in the same league as Vallejo or Lifecolour acrylics. Agree, Humbrol acrylics aren't very good. Personally I'm quite happy with Revell acrylics provided they get a good stir - and for any paint that's usually twice as long as you think. Vallejo/Lifecolour/Gunze are all very good but availability ? Spraying - may not be an option for all. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianusa Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 I have spray painted many items of rolling stock but never locos. My criterion is if I am content with it, that's all I worry about and personally I couldn't compete with some of the work shown on here and elsewhere so am happy with my efforts. Brian.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.