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The Longsight Patriot


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On 15/12/2016 at 15:11, david.hill64 said:

The brass etched have half etched indents for the rivet locations. These have to be pressed out - embossed - with a suitable tool.

 

When I returned to kit building a couple of years ago I started with this:

 

attachicon.gif004.JPG

 

Yes it is  hammer a nail and some lead sheet to support the etch while it is attacked. Brutal, likely to give indifferent results but very cheap.

 

Then I moved on to a gravity riveter:

 

attachicon.gif005.JPG

 

The weight is set to drop from a set height giving even rivets. Trouble is like the hammer method, you end up with a deformed etch that has to be straightened.

 

So now I use this:

 

attachicon.gif006.JPG

 

A proper rivet press that supports the etch with an indented anvil and gives crisp rivet detail. 

.

Edited by Mookie
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Tonight saw the first stage of uniting the boiler with the running plate and then a test of the superstructure with the chassis.

 

I was concerned to ensure that I got a secure fit of the smokebox to the saddle so I decided that a mechanical fix would be better than glue. The design has hole in the bottom of the smokebox to allow for the front chassis to body securing screw to pass through the nut soldered to the running plate and into the smokebox cavity. I decided to turn this arrangement around and use a screw from the smokebox to secure it to the running plate using the same nut. The screw then extends downwards through the chassis fixing tab. the chassis is then secured here with a nut rather than a screw. getting the screw in place was a bit of a bind, but I used a series of broaches to open up the holes for the double chimney which then allowed a screwdriver to be angled in to tighten the screw while it was initially held in place by a pair of tweezers through the hole in the smokebox door ring that was cut out to allow me to secure the smokebox to the boiler. I used a brass washer and a plastic washer under the head of the screw which can just be seen here.

 

post-13840-0-37223600-1482160872_thumb.jpg

 

At the other end the firebox was secured to the cab front with a couple of screws and nuts.

 

post-13840-0-68326800-1482160870_thumb.jpg

 

Later I will solder the joint between firebox and running plate.

 

This was then test fitted to the chassis which showed that I needed to take a little off the top of the sandboxes: just a tiny amount but it works.

 

post-13840-0-57818700-1482160867_thumb.jpg

 

I had to be careful to locate the crank from the weighshaft in the correct place.

 

post-13840-0-96284900-1482160863_thumb.jpg

 

Looking at this photo I need to tweak the motion plate a little. It probably moved when I was grinding the tops off the sandboxes.

 

I did a test fit of the boiler furniture which needs cleaning up a little. That will be done after tomorrow when I have finally fixed the boiler assembly in place.

 

Edit to add that I found that I needed to remove the bottom of the firebox front plate as it interfered with the driving wheels.

Edited by david.hill64
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No photos today but a bit of an update.

 

As I was generally happy with the fit of the boiler assembly to the running plate I removed the fixings between the cab and the boiler and slackened off the smokebox securing screw as much as possible. I then put a smear of epoxy on the mating surfaces and rejoined using the mechanical fixings.

 

Once that was done I added the rivet strip detail at the cab front interface with the firebox and then glued the cast firebox side pieces in place.

 

It was then time to turn to the cab floor. This proved to be the trickiest job so far. The cab floor is a tight fit and required a little filing to get it to sit nicely. Once I was happy with that I removed it and added the splasher tops. This was a pig of a job: should have been easy but for some reason didn't seem to go right. I think I had in the back of my mind that I had read somewhere that this was a tricky job, so perhaps that was affecting me. Anyway I did manage to get them fixed and then replaced the floor and secured it.

 

I thought at this stage it would be worthwhile checking the fit of the backhead and I am so glad I did. Two things to address: firstly it is too tall. this is easily remedied by cutting 2-3mm off the base. Secondly it won't fit between the splashers. Again easily dealt with and I will try to remember to photo the amended backhead.

 

The instructions now suggest dealing with the reverser and fireman's seat, which is sensible and then fitting the cab roof, which is not.

 

I rather like fitting out backheads so I will treat myself to that job next. Then I will fit the window frames and cinder guards. I asked myself why I hadn't done these before as usually I do this before assembling the cab. No answer to that other than a senior moment perhaps.

 

I will then assemble the roof parts, but the backhead and roof will be left for the painter (Paul Moore) to fix once he has worked his magic.

 

Although numerically I am less than half way through the list of body instructions, I think in terms of time and effort on the body I am 75% done and am expecting to make rapid progress from here on in.

 

Unless something comes and bites me, I expect that the only tricky bit left to do will be the oil pipes. Does anybody have a good picture of the piping on the running plate please?

 

Confidently expecting to have this in primer to show at Bristol.

Edited by david.hill64
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Here are the missing photos from Wednesday's update.

 

First the rivet strip detail at the firebox/cab interface and the firebox side piece:

 

post-13840-0-90829000-1482450976_thumb.jpg

 

Second: cab floor and splashers:

 

post-13840-0-33733700-1482450978_thumb.jpg

 

Third: backhead placed in position:

 

post-13840-0-20182300-1482450981_thumb.jpg

 

Four: backhead butchery.

 

post-13840-0-19071700-1482450983_thumb.jpg

 

Before treating myself to the backhead plumbing job there were some smaller jobs to do in the area. I folded the reverser support and then test fitted. It required an amount of surgery to get in place such that the hole for the reach rod matched the hole in the cab front. Stupidly I removed too much from the bottom of the support which is now supported only by the cab sides! I will put some epoxy filler in the gap later. It is a very tight fit between the splasher and the cab side.

 

The fireman's seat and cab box assembly and its location was straightforward.

 

While the soldering iron was hot I decided to keep going with soldering jobs, the next being the formation of the cab roof. This has to be bent to shape to match the cab front and it would have been so much easier if I had thought to do this before making the cab. So helpful hint for the day: bend the cab roof before you build the cab! I bent the roof by putting it through the rollers to get a curve and then flattening certain sections and tightening others. With it approximately the correct shape, I added the main cab rib which forces the roof to the correct profile. I then added the rear beading and rear rib and test fit in place.

 

From my post above you will have seen that I planned to keep the roof off to allow the painter in, but it became obvious why it needs to be fitted at this stage. The cab beading pieces go up from the cab sides continuously to the roof. Impossible to fit these after painting. So I decided to do some other jobs that are easier without the cab roof and fitted the window frames and cinder guards. I should probably have glued the reverser and cab seat in place as well.

 

Fitting the cab roof wasn't particularly difficult, but gave rise to other problems. I lined up the roof and tacked it in place at on rear corner, and happy that was OK tacked the other corner as well. I then pressed the roof into position at the centre of the cab front and soldered there. I then pressed the join between cab sides and roof and made that good. Fortunately that meant that the rest of the cab front/roof join went where it should, so that was soldered up. Repeated on other side and look at handiwork.

 

And that is where the problems seemed to occur. It looked like the roof was angled back and not parallel to the ground. I could not work out how this could be, but in the end came to the conclusion that with the boiler tapering one way, the firebox slanted the other and the assembly held in my hand, there was no proper reference for my eye. With the body sat on a flat surface and a straight edge along the top of the cab, the straight edge was found to be the same height from the ground at all points so the roof fit must be OK.

 

With that done I added the beading. I made a bend for the cab handrail support and worked up from there. The beading runs up the cab and around the cab roof and meets up with the beading already located. the new beading has to be cut to length to form a neat joint in the cab roof rear.

 

I drilled out the holes for the handrail knobs at the bottom of the cab sides as per instructions, and then noticed from photos that there are no knobs here just bent rails. So when I get out the epoxy putty tonight to make good my stupidity in the reverser support, I will fill these holes too.

 

No close ups yet but the final two pictures show where we are.

 

post-13840-0-47876700-1482450986_thumb.jpg

 

post-13840-0-85545100-1482450989_thumb.jpg

 

So tomorrow may well allow me to indulge in the backhead plumbing task and make a start on the detailing. The instructions are recommending fitting the footsteps next, but I know if I do that I will bend them doing another job so I will delay fitting.

Edited by david.hill64
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Whats going to be on the bench next? A Duchess maybe?

 No Duchess for a while. Pity as I would like to do one.

 

Not necessarily in the correct order, but forthcoming attractions are:

 

Finney West Country

Gladiator Stanier Mogul

Connoisseur J83

DJH A3

Gladiator H2

Gladiator King Arthur

DJH D49

Gladiator O4

Gladiator K1

 

Forgot the 47xx!

 

I need to give up work, and after the week I have just had here - and not being able to get home for Christmas again - that may be sooner than I planned.

Edited by david.hill64
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 No Duchess for a while. Pity as I would like to do one.

 

Not necessarily in the correct order, but forthcoming attractions are:

 

Finney West Country

Gladiator Stanier Mogul

Connoisseur J83

DJH A3

Gladiator H2

Gladiator King Arthur

DJH D49

Gladiator O4

Gladiator K1

 

I need to give up work, and after the week I have just had here - and not being able to get home for Christmas again - that may be sooner than I planned.

 

Thats the first quarter of 2017 sorted!! What are you going to do for the rest of the year??  :jester:  :jester:

Seasons Greetings.

 

Regards, Deano.

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Thats the first quarter of 2017 sorted!! What are you going to do for the rest of the year??  :jester:  :jester:

Seasons Greetings.

 

Regards, Deano.

First quarter? You mean first nine weeks, surely? :jester: :jester: :jester:

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So I managed to get my treat for today done:

 

post-13840-0-87774600-1482580363_thumb.jpg

 

Some more photos of the cab assembly. Note that I have filled some gaps but not cut back the filler yet.

 

post-13840-0-79019400-1482580367_thumb.jpg

 

post-13840-0-82361200-1482580370_thumb.jpg

 

It is not widely known that a few of these locos found their way to New South Wales. Here is one:

 

post-13840-0-01705400-1482580374_thumb.jpg

Edited by david.hill64
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Its coming along great Dave I look forward to seeing it in the flesh at Bristol if your there?

Yes Mrs Gladiator and I will be manning the stand and Sir Frank will be on display.

 

There is a 4 day weekend coming up next weekend with both Monday and Tuesday as public holidays with a strong exhortation from the government that companies ensure staff do no work. So with 4 potentially clear days at the bench I confidently expect all to be finished. Basically now it should be done to sticking bits on in the correct places.

Thanks to all who have been following this thread and for all of your good wishes. A Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to you all.

 

David

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Looks good, I am hoping a Jubilee will be next up on the bench, I have not made many LMS locos.

 

Not to much more to do now. Will it be in red? I think the colour suits the 4-6-0´s.

Not sure that any of the rebuilt 4-6-0s made it into red. Sir Frank will be BR Green.

 

Yes not much more to do. The obvious jobs are the steps, ejector, handrails, smokebox blister, smokebox door details, top feed pipes, lubricators and oil boxes, deflectors and reach rod. I added the reverser, driver's seat and large AWS tank since the photos were taken. 

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Not sure that any of the rebuilt 4-6-0s made it into red. Sir Frank will be BR Green.

 

Yes not much more to do. The obvious jobs are the steps, ejector, handrails, smokebox blister, smokebox door details, top feed pipes, lubricators and oil boxes, deflectors and reach rod. I added the reverser, driver's seat and large AWS tank since the photos were taken. 

That really looks the part David, great modelling again. BTW I think 6170 was in red after rebuilding (but that of course was a unique "Scot"), the only other one was 46100 but that was at Bressingham, I think that green suits the ex LMS 4-6-0's just as well.

 

Rgds Mike

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Guest Isambarduk

"Not sure that any of the rebuilt 4-6-0s made it into red"

 

I agree with ikks and I am certain that only 6170 British Legion was ever in LMR red and it was not rebuilt from a Fowler Royal Scot.  The Scots were started to be rebuilt during the WW2 so were painted in LMS black and became BR green later.

 

David

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Yep, forgot about 6170.

Despite my earlier post saying I would delay fitting them I made up and fitted the front and cab steps and the front step supports. The cab steps in particular are quite chunky so I think they will survive. I also fitted the small front steps that are located by the deflectors.

The fiddly bits will be the lubricator oil pipes. Definitely a morning job when I feel fresh.

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