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Churminster & Stowe Magna, Southern Railway


Tony Teague
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I know how concurrency works, so you have my sympathy, if that's the right word to use.

 

I continue to be impressed by your rate of work. I have been in the workshop all day (unusually) but have nothing much to show for it.

 

That steel van looks interesting . . .. . .

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Borrowing a scene from Tony Wright's video build of the Midland 3F .....

The C3 now has its splashers - A point discovered the hard way - Make the splashers longer than you might need as it's easier to shorten them than to lengthen them! How did I discover that?

Secondly in this case, make them from thinner  material than the main body etch (these are made from 6thou N-S strip and folded around a 15mm diameter piece of copper pipe). Alternatively half etch the entire splasher which is what I have done on version 2 of the etch.

Thirdly, solder from underneath.

 

410426724_8-LHSsplashersinsitu.JPG.720574284b2bde854ff756c75022c877.JPG

Edited by Arun Sharma
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Hmm - soldering the springs in place on the inside interferes with the ashpan - also looks a bit untidy. Version 2.1 [currently on the computer] now makes the spring positions more accurate/better defined using slot and tab and the lower ashpan is now a half etch attached to the bottom of the chassis with full height rivets on it (like the lower firebox etch).

This is quite a strange build as the mods discovered en-route mean that it is very much a scratch-build but with preformed parts. Again, the whole point of a test build.

 

The chassis side, with the half etched spots in red, is below:

 

Capture.JPG

Edited by Arun Sharma
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On 05/02/2021 at 17:11, Arun Sharma said:

Hmm - soldering the springs in place on the inside interferes with the ashpan - also looks a bit untidy. Version 2.1 [currently on the computer] now makes the spring positions more accurate/better defined using slot and tab and the lower ashpan is now a half etch attached to the bottom of the chassis with full height rivets on it (like the lower firebox etch).

 

 

Arun as an inexperienced builder I might be wrong, but I would have thought that on most 4mm scale locos, the springs would form part of the etch rather than being separate parts to be soldered on? See this SEF E6 chassis:

 

SJPP920000502180920.jpg.95df81301c7b9ffdbc0ed119765e36e1.jpg

 

My point being simply - are you making it harder than it needs to be?

 

Tony

Edited by Tony Teague
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Tony - Depending on how the springs are drawn is the problem. It is quite possible to draw them so that with them in place it becomes impossible to have vertically moving hornblocks - i.e., springing on two or all three axles on an 0-6-0. Depending on who is your builder and his/her preferences regarding springing, having separate springs gives maximum flexibility. In any event, the 7mm version will have separate springs so it's a useful exercise anyway. Any EM or P4 version would also have separate springs as hornblock use is rather more common in those scales.

Edited by Arun Sharma
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At the risk of cause more hassle with the C3 biold, one thing to watch out for with classes C2/C2X/C3 is the odd reverse curve where the splasher meets the footplate. You can see it in these rather nice photos:

https://thetransportlibrary.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=36313

 

https://thetransportlibrary.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=160871&search=C3&category_id=64&page=1

 

I do like the idea of separate springs on chassis etches. Cutting them off and refitting is never fun.

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10 hours ago, Arun Sharma said:

Tony - Depending on how the springs are drawn is the problem. It is quite possible to draw them so that with them in place it becomes impossible to have vertically moving hornblocks - i.e., springing on two or all three axles on an 0-6-0. Depending on who is your builder and his/her preferences regarding springing, having separate springs gives maximum flexibility. In any event, the 7mm version will have separate springs so it's a useful exercise anyway. Any EM or P4 version would also have separate springs as hornblock use is rather more common in those scales.

Arun

Yes I get that, and I realise that you are also aiming at 7mm.

For me personally, I won't be specifying a sprung / compensated chassis - if I have any locos in my fleet that are compensated it is an accident and I don't know about it! - nevertheless, I accept that the prevailing preference in the finer scales will be to have this.

Tony

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46 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

You'll have to get used to compensation with the ones you get from me, absolutely essential in the case of the 4-4-0.

 

No problem - if you hadn't said though, I probably wouldn't have noticed!

Tony

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13 hours ago, pete_mcfarlane said:

At the risk of cause more hassle with the C3 biold, one thing to watch out for with classes C2/C2X/C3 is the odd reverse curve where the splasher meets the footplate. You can see it in these rather nice photos:

https://thetransportlibrary.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=36313

 

https://thetransportlibrary.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=160871&search=C3&category_id=64&page=1

 

I do like the idea of separate springs on chassis etches. Cutting them off and refitting is never fun.

Clearances under the splashers are tight - no question. I was beginning to worry when the wheels weren't going round when I fitted the body and wheeled chassis together but it was just the crankpins sticking out hitting the footplate valance! To be trimmed forthwith!

I do like your photos - 2302, which I believe Tony is interested in, rather helpfully has the ex-B2X tender with the later axleboxes as well as LNER/SR group standard buffers which make life rather easier.

 

Picture of the wheeled chassis is attached. The wheels go round freely! though I will have to remove the protruding bits of crankpin. Using these Markits crankpins and threaded nuts, it almost makes sense to use these when trialling the fit and then use the older type of Markits washer as the final fit. In this case, I will just be prepared to file a little of the nut as required.

11-run broach thru rods and fit.JPG

Edited by Arun Sharma
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Today the 3rd GWR mink A was completed; this is a vac braked example to dia. V23 and has spoked wheels:

 

SJPP217001102210217.jpg.c0f469f857818c6b90e4ce1ff7fe6eb7.jpg

 

The two LMS vans started on 26th Jan were also completed and so, as predicted, the paint shop queue has started to build again:

 

SJPP217001302210217.jpg.7a82a00df657dac9f417914302552698.jpg

 

Meanwhile, along at the end of the Churminster headshunt there are three more wagons which, although technically complete (2 are RTR) also require some paint shop attention to their planking prior to joining the even longer weathering queue:

 

SJPP217001602210217.jpg.0996b2da4c021918859801b383cea8a0.jpg

 

Once we get a a bit of dry weather I will get on to painting but in the meantime I have also made a little progress with the 3rd rail installation that stalled last month:

 

SJPP217000202210217.jpg.437779097d905870b6cf2639eac9a757.jpg

 

In case anyone doubts the tedious nature of this job, I thought I would illustrate it - prepare to nod off!

 

The 3rd rail is held in place on raised insulators and they come (Peco) on sprues as above; to prepare these you must first remove all of the moulding threads that support each insulator, this:

 

SJPP217000302210217.jpg.17dc30b00e450b9ac837672536564fc3.jpg

 

Then Paint the bit at the tope that represent the clip holding the rail, but not the white bit in the middle, representing the insulator:

 

SJPP217000802210217.jpg.09cbb87e5d063c2f7926ea5cbbfded21.jpg

 

After that they are cut from the sprue and threaded onto the conductor rail - perhaps the most fiddly and tedioous bit:

 

SJPP217000602210217.jpg.c92b250c781103fee18716c519a2c1a5.jpg

 

Finally holes are drilled in every 4th sleeper and the insulators lined up with and inserted into them with a bit of glue:

 

SJPP217001702210217.jpg.f2eae5bf610bd35c1a48d3a84bf4610c.jpg

 

....and then of course the rail sides will need painting!

 

In this particular, double track section which is just over 2.5m long, I need about 9 lengths of conductor rail, each with around 20 insulators, so 180 to paint, trim, thread and 180 holes to drill in sleepers!

 

I have resolved to do a little at a time in order to prevent my mojo from running out in horror!

 

Tony

Edited by Tony Teague
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3 hours ago, Tony Teague said:

Today the 3rd GWR mink A was completed; this is a vac braked example to dia. V23 and has spoked wheels:

 

SJPP217001102210217.jpg.0a05651446ccb07fca7b23c83225dc9a.jpg

 

The two LMS vans started on 26th Jan were also completed and so, as predicted, the paint shop queue has started to build again:

 

SJPP217001302210217.jpg.058f2226b4f043f2fdb751df32c48805.jpg

 

Meanwhile, along at the end of the Churminster headshunt there are three more wagons which, although technically complete (2 are RTR) also require some paint shop attention to their planking prior to joining the even longer weathering queue:

 

SJPP217001602210217.jpg.c183833210edc27094315cf3219db4c5.jpg

 

Once we get a a bit of dry weather I will get on to painting but in the meantime I have also made a little progress with the 3rd rail installation that stalled last month:

 

SJPP217000202210217.jpg.4fa2c967b96192e9fce98e08c32bca28.jpg

 

In case anyone doubts the tedious nature of this job, I thought I would illustrate it - prepare to nod off!

 

The 3rd rail is held in place on raised insulators and they come (Peco) on sprues as above; to prepare these you must first remove all of the moulding threads that support each insulator, this:

 

SJPP217000302210217.jpg.ce76da0b0165a9b7f90c5393580a30bb.jpg

 

Then Paint the bit at the tope that represent the clip holding the rail, but not the white bit in the middle, representing the insulator:

 

SJPP217000802210217.jpg.fcb5ddd02d777ef7b637531625b4e10d.jpg

 

After that they are cut from the sprue and threaded onto the conductor rail - perhaps the most fiddly and tedioous bit:

 

SJPP217000602210217.jpg.82e980f1d3a26508440acd7d48e62f62.jpg

 

Finally holes are drilled in every 4th sleeper and the insulators lined up with and inserted into them with a bit of glue:

 

SJPP217001702210217.jpg.53f0974f3e5581439f9aa700e8f2f8f5.jpg

 

and then of course the rail sides will need painting!

 

In this particular, double track section which is just over 2.5m long, I need about 9 lengths of conductor rail, each with around 20 insulators, so 180 to paint, trim, thread and 180 holes to drill in sleepers!

 

I have resolved to do a little at a time in order to prevent my mojo from running out in horror!

 

Tony

 

 

Sounds like a good reason to avoid modelling Southern Railway to me!

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3 hours ago, Mick Bonwick said:

It looks good when it's finished, though. :good:

 

I agree - I'll post some pictures once it's all in place and painted.

After this stretch there is just about one metre left round by Churminster Junction, plus some fiddly bits at the entrance to the terminating bay platforms at Stowe Magna; the rest is all complete.

 

7 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Sounds like a good reason to avoid modelling Southern Railway to me!

 

Yes, or at least keeping to non-electrified lines!

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The Marsh C3 proceeds - It seems slow because it is just one of several contemporaneous design and build projects viz, 7mm class 309 EMU, Class 43 power car, Sacre 12AT and of course the 4mm B2X tender that will go on the C3. As Tony might agree, swapping about different projects stops the mojo from wandering too far!

At present I am assembling the brake gear on the C3 - Because these engines were built with steam pumps + Weir pumps as part of the system for pre-heating the water in the tender, there was limited room between the frames and this meant that the 'longerons'  connecting the transverse spreaders were on the outside of the wheels unlike their near cousins the C2X where the longerons were in the more common position on the inside.

As this build is of a non-motorised, unpainted 'proof of concept' model, I don't have to concern myself with working out which bits should be painted and in which order.

The brake hangers are my own lost wax castings - I am considering whether to produce a 3D print version for insulation reasons but arguably a smear of epoxy on the brass brake shoes will work just as well and may well be far more robust.

 

 

 

 

13-front driver brake gear.JPG

Edited by Arun Sharma
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Meanwhile, through a tunnel beyond Stowe Magna station.....the engineering possession continues and there is slow but steady progress with the 3rd rail installation.

 

So far, all insulator pots have been painted, 6 of 8 full length 3rd rails have their pots attached and two of 8 rails are fitted into their final position - so about 25% done.

 

At the same time, and in order to maintain variety........

 

.......you may perhaps recall that back on p.42, at the end of December, I took delivery of a kit of parts for the SR Waterloo & City Line shunter DS75 - again, courtesy of Arun Sharma:

 

SJPP218000202210218.jpg.d062e1558f2900d1ea118aed646a5bc9.jpg

 

It is a very tiny loco that will sit over a 'spud' motor bogie, and so there are not a huge number of parts, conversely, it is not a "kit" in the normal sense and there are no instructions, but I decided it was time to make a start.

 

The first problem I encountered (back in December) was that I was unable to obtain a Black Beetle / Spud bogie of exactly the right length (8' 6") and so after due consideration I went for one that is about 1 or 2mm too long, on the basis that you can hardly see the wheels anyway.

 

Arun had provided two small holes on each body side into which the axle ends of the motor bogie would fit; they dont' have any particular function - they are not bearing points - other than to line up the bogie with the body correctly; so my first task was to elongate each of these very slightly, so as to allow for the over length bogie - you can see how small the difference is in this shot:

 

SJPP218000502210218.jpg.f32a45e3d96673afec998391f94fb66e.jpg

 

Incidentally, my camera seems to have immense difficulty focussing on the white 3D printed material from which the body is made, so my apologies if some of these are woolly!

 

Once this was completed and a snug fit achieved, I considered how best to mount the bogie under the body and decided to fit a plasticard falsefloor, which was then cut to size:

 

SJPP218001402210218.jpg.d0a81b1cb8f320e22e515b5827a3ab99.jpg

 

The motor has a small protrusion at the top from where it can be fixed in place, but this will not be possible for this loco; once the two halves are glued together with the floor in place, there will be no way to access the interior of the body.

 

Rather than attempt to remove the 'protrusion' I decided to cut a hole in the false floor to allow for it; this will enable the floor and body to sit snugly on top of the bogie to give the correct ride height.

 

SJPP218001502210218.jpg.97e3ac4fa00dc84bc66fbf51b1cc01e8.jpg

 

And thats where I got to today!

 

Before I can stick the bodywork together I will now have to paint the inside because of the lack of access later; indeed, I will also have to glaze it, which mean painting the outside as well, but unless someone has a bright idea, I can see no alternative.

 

Tony

Edited by Tony Teague
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