Andrew P Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 Morning Guys, Thanks for all the Likes and Comments, really appreciated. I've just ordered what should I hope be the last sheet of 8 X 4 Ply, cut into 3 required sizes, 4 X 2, 6 X 2.5, 6 X 1.5, that should almost give me enough to finish things off when I start re building the Shed next week after the Insurance assessor has been out, although I'm still not sure if I'm going down that route yet. I'm still working on Plans, but I do need more room than in the first Post I think, but I will have to see, as many have said, ''O'' eats up the room. so I may just have a Plank along in front of the Window over the OO Fiddle Yard, but still not really sure. It's very difficult to visualize at the moment as all the current baseboard top is covered in Cr*p, until I can re build the Shed inside and put the Workbench and Draw units back into place. Back to the Drawing Board I guess. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 Just been up to our Club as it's a running Friday, (2 a Month for the O Gauge Section) and given the 25 a short run, and also received a phone call to say that both of my 08's are in, so I will collect them next week, (very busy tomorrow and Sunday). 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 Chips arrived this morning from Paul Chetter (great service) and I've just picked up my 2 08's so will have a look at them after GP Qualifying. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted November 26, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 26, 2016 So the big boy stuff is for real then :scratchhead: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted November 26, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2016 And I couldn't resist this beauty Fairburn, 22XX GWR CITY 012.JPG. Hi Andy, That lorry is nice, what's the make, if you don't mind me asking? Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 Hi Andy, That lorry is nice, what's the make, if you don't mind me asking? Rich Hi Rich, It's a Corgi mate. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 Having received 2 of Paul Chetters Protodrive Sound Chips today for my 08's I decided to fit the first one as I only have Pauls speaker at the moment, I want to try out 2 different speakers and so far I'm more than impressed with what I've heard. I started off by running both Locos on Anolog to ensure they worked well. I then popped the top off to have a look inside. I then soldered on 2 wires for the Stay Alive unit. After swaping the Blanking Chip for the Sound Chip I then attached the Stay Alive unit with some Black Tack inside the Body. The Speaker was then soldered to the Curcit Board and again held in place with a large dollop of Black Tack to give a soft but firm fitting. Then it was testing time.......WOW....SUPERB. More than pleased with my first Protodrive Chip. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 They look good Andy. I hope that you're going to post a bit of video for us Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 They look good Andy. I hope that you're going to post a bit of video for us Not a bad idea mate, but I'll wait until I've fitted the other Speaker that should be here next week. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 Hello Andy, Looks a bit complicated ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Hello Andy, Looks a bit complicated ? Compared with what? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 (edited) Hello Andy, Looks a bit complicated ? Not complicated mate, it's only soldering on 2 wires for the Stay Alive unit, and having spoken to Paul, that could be left off if you didn't want it, but on an 0-6-0 it's probably a good idea, but it was easy once I had a small iron. the Speaker, again just a quick dob of solder onto the tags. it was a lot lot lot quicker than hard wiring a Steam Loco with the Chip and Speaker in the Tender and with a lot more room in this well planned Loco it was almost a joy to do. EDIT = To say that it probably took no more than 10 minutes max, once I had read the instruction and got my head around what was needed. Edited November 27, 2016 by Andrew P 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Morning Andy / Paul, l am no DCC expert, yes l can scratch build locos / buildings all day long but DCC electrics baffle me everytime, l am ok with plug and play that's easy but when you have to solder wires etc on to chips that's a different thing altogether Heeeeeeeeeeeeeelp... Hahahahaha... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 (edited) Hi Andy, Thanks for the photos, I was dreading the converting to DCC bit, I do not do electrics unless I have to, so that has given me the confidence to give it a go. Cheers, Martyn. Edited November 27, 2016 by 3 link 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 (edited) Morning Andy / Paul, l am no DCC expert, yes l can scratch build locos / buildings all day long but DCC electrics baffle me everytime, l am ok with plug and play that's easy but when you have to solder wires etc on to chips that's a different thing altogether Heeeeeeeeeeeeeelp... Hahahahaha... The Stay Alive capacitor is an optional extra which ZIMO provides. It is not essential. You don't 'have to' solder to the decoder at all; Andy chose to do it that way. If all manufacturers designed their PCBs to take advantage of all 21 pin connections available from these decoders, there would be no need for anyone to solder to the decoder*. The Stay Alive capacitor connections are available via the 21 pin connector, but there are no solder pads provided on the PCB which are connected to the appropriate pins. *After all, that's what Dapol has provided for the speaker connections on its PCB, why not the other connections?. Even so, it would be possible, (I've done it many times and shown it a couple of times in my Hornby Magazine 'how to' features on DCC/Sound) to solder to the base of the PCB connector rather than the decoder. The instructions which come with the decoders effectively say that there are pads available on the decoder for connecting Stay Alive capacitors if required, but it is preferable to use the connections on the model's PCB (where provided). I only know of two Ready to Run UK models which provide easily accessed connections to all of the decoder's features; the highly rated SLW Class 24 in 4mm and the soon to be released Class 15 in 7mm from the Little Loco Company. We have the situation where decoder manufacturers produce fully featured 'Plug and Play' 21 pin decoders whilst most model manuafcturers cripple many of the features with inadequate access to the relevant pin connections. I have rigorously lobbied (and continue to do so) our major manufacturers to provide such access in all new model designs, since it costs little more to provide a comprehensively equipped PCB (even if the model as released will not use all of the features) than one which will 'just do' provided it is designe that way in the first place. I detect some movement towards this outcome. Kind regards, Paul BTW, I have greatly admired your loco building skills for some time, but to me that's a true illustration of 'a bit complicated' LOL Edited November 27, 2016 by pauliebanger 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Good to hear that your more than pleased the 08`s and the sound chip.They really do sound the part don`t they..... And if your like me,you won`t stop 'playing' with them either...and oh yes, i`ve even crumbbled and ordered a green one as well now!!. Cheers, Brian. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 (edited) Just been out for a Play,F13 on = Spirax Valves on.F13 off = Spirax Valves offF14 on = Fuel Transfer Pump onF14 off = Fuel Transfer Pump off.F1 on = Start Engine. F19 on = Shunting Lights onF0 on= Head Light on.F4 = Toot TootNotch 2 and were moving,Increase speed to required amount.F9 = Flange Squeal (if I had laid some Points)Roll off speedF2 = Braking to a stop.F8 on = Buffering upF8 off = Coupling / Uncouple WagonsChange Direction and Repeat from F4. Real Driving like I've never experienced with DCC Sound before. Edited November 27, 2016 by Andrew P 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 It sounds like all you need is a length of track and no layout with the fun you're having Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted November 27, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2016 Hi Andy, First if all nice to see you modelling mate. I've been having a bit of a catch up, as sadly modelling/RMWeb time has been limited of late. The 08 locos look so tempting! Keep up the good work, hope the shed has been sorted. Kind regards, Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Just been out for a Play, F13 on = Spirax Valves on. F13 off = Spirax Valves off F14 on = Fuel Transfer Pump on F14 off = Fuel Transfer Pump off. F1 on = Start Engine. F19 on = Shunting Lights on F0 on= Head Light on. F4 = Toot Toot Notch 2 and were moving, Increase speed to required amount. F9 = Flange Squeal (if I had laid some Points) Roll off speed F2 = Braking to a stop. F8 on = Buffering up F8 off = Coupling / Uncouple Wagons Change Direction and Repeat from F4. Real Driving like I've never experienced with DCC Sound before. Andy, Can't wait for the video. LOL Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Looking forward to hearing your 08 on Saturday Buddy, maybe l will understand a bit more on the fitting of the chip as well ?,,,, 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 Looking forward to hearing your 08 on Saturday Buddy, maybe l will understand a bit more on the fitting of the chip as well ?,,,, Get yours ordered and we can do it in 10 minutes now I know what I'm doing. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnfromoz Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Paul, Digitrains have just sent me their Activedrive on MX644 and the LS40 twin speakers as you recommended. Despite me asking them to wire the speakers (I hate soldering to speakers due to eye/dexterity issues) they have not done so. Am I right in thinking I can solder some speaker wires to any point on the connecting wire bars ( + & - ) which joins both speakers? TIA for your help John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnfromoz Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Apologies Andy P, The above post requesting info from Paul should have been posted in the Dapol 08 thread. Got engrossed in looking at your installation. Cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Paul, Digitrains have just sent me their Activedrive on MX644 and the LS40 twin speakers as you recommended. Despite me asking them to wire the speakers (I hate soldering to speakers due to eye/dexterity issues) they have not done so. Am I right in thinking I can solder some speaker wires to any point on the connecting wire bars ( + & - ) which joins both speakers? TIA for your help John John, Have a close look at the photos above in post #107 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116976-beale-st/?p=2513613 The solder pads for the speaker wires can be seen on the loco PCB. They are each labelled 'SPK'. You can see these clearly in the 6th and 7th pictures, the latter having red and black speaker wires soldered in place. It does not matter which speaker wire is soldered to which SPK pad, so long as it is only one to each. Kind regards, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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