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The big Leap starts with a Gronk


PjKing1
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The bogie sideframes are first class. Please describe your technique.

Thanks Chris I've always tried to achieve texture to the weathering, so I paint the bogies in either matt black, weathered black or roof dirt, depending what I've got in, whilst still wet I add black weathering powder and a mix of light and dark earth weathering powder, I then dust it all lightly with a mix of it all. I then pick out various areas in a mix of matt black and gunmetal blue, this gives an oily diesel look (I use this on track to) I then add a bit more black powder. I then add gloss varnish to certain areas toning it down with powder on a baby bud. The paint and varnish tends to hold the powder but I seal it with either railmatch matt varnish or lately I've been using testors Dull coat which I find great and saves getting the airbrush out. Hope this helps but there's more photos of how I've done it on other locos on my 'Dirty diesel' thread.

 

Thanks again

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Thanks Chris I've always tried to achieve texture to the weathering, so I paint the bogies in either matt black, weathered black or roof dirt, depending what I've got in, whilst still wet I add black weathering powder and a mix of light and dark earth weathering powder, I then dust it all lightly with a mix of it all. I then pick out various areas in a mix of matt black and gunmetal blue, this gives an oily diesel look (I use this on track to) I then add a bit more black powder. I then add gloss varnish to certain areas toning it down with powder on a baby bud. The paint and varnish tends to hold the powder but I seal it with either railmatch matt varnish or lately I've been using testors Dull coat which I find great and saves getting the airbrush out. Hope this helps but there's more photos of how I've done it on other locos on my 'Dirty diesel' thread.

 

Thanks again

Paul,

I have looked at your Dirty Diesel forum and there is lots of good advice. The only 0 gauge diesel I have weathered to date is a Heljan Hymek. An airbrush was the main weapon, but the finish does lack the relief that you have achieved on the Class 40's bogies. The Hymek's buffers need sorting out per your detailed description of the Class 24 project.  I am much more confident about weathering steam locomotives and I agree that Testors Dullcote is a first class product and well worth the usually exorbitant price.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

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Paul,

I have looked at your Dirty Diesel forum and there is lots of good advice. The only 0 gauge diesel I have weathered to date is a Heljan Hymek. An airbrush was the main weapon, but the finish does lack the relief that you have achieved on the Class 40's bogies. The Hymek's buffers need sorting out per your detailed description of the Class 24 project.  I am much more confident about weathering steam locomotives and I agree that Testors Dullcote is a first class product and well worth the usually exorbitant price.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

That Hymek looks pretty good to me :) I occasionally use an airbrush but it's only for adding frame dirt to the body side as I'm just not the comfy using the airbrush, for the 40 I might dust it off though and use on the body or I might just order some frame dirt in an aerosol. One thing I forgot to mention was that I sit the Dullcoat in a cup of warm water for ten minutes before use, the only down side with any sealing tough is that it tones down the colours.

 

I've never weathered a steam loco but it's something I fancy doing, maybe a scrap line loco ;)

 

Next up in the 40 will be to finish the wheels off, in the past I've applied black powder to the wet paint but I don't like using powder on the wheels if I'm honest as they really do need a thorough clean as it gets everywhere, so I'm going to experiment with a bit of black paint with maybe a bit of powder added in. After that it'll be the bogie fronts, buffers and then the tanks.

 

Thanks again

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 I might just order some frame dirt in an aerosol. 

 

 

Hi Paul,

 

The class 40 side frames are looking really good.

But for goodness sake, don't use Frame Dirt in an aerosol for weathering, it comes out much too thick and nowhere near as controlled as an airbrush. The other thing is you can let the paint down further with an airbrush for a finer spray/diluted colour.

 

Your Gronk is looking good as well, very nice textures.

 

Jinty ;)

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Hi Paul,

 

The class 40 side frames are looking really good.

But for goodness sake, don't use Frame Dirt in an aerosol for weathering, it comes out much too thick and nowhere near as controlled as an airbrush. The other thing is you can let the paint down further with an airbrush for a finer spray/diluted colour.

 

Your Gronk is looking good as well, very nice textures.

 

Jinty ;)

 

 

Somebody in a model shop in Warwickshire once told me that he would often 'decant' paint from an aerosol into an airbrush pot (or similar) by swapping the spray nozzle on the paint can for a nozzle and pipe from a WD40 can. I tried it once - it works, and you can then thin the paint with more thinners. Obviously, make sure the WD40 nozzle and pipe are clean (or New) first !

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Thanks fellas :)

 

Told you I was useless using paint Jinty, I'll blow the mothballs off the airbrush and use that then, unless u can find a better way with the powders (lot more difficult in 7mm :O )

 

Thanks again for the comments and advice much appreciated.

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Paul, Those side frames are superb mate, 

 

I must get brave,

 

I must get brave

 

I MUST GET BRAVE, hahahha. :O

 

Thanks Andy you must!!!!!!

 

I got brave last night and tackled the wheels, at first using paints and the dry brush technique but on inspection this morning it looked cr@p so it was out with the paints st 4.30 am and with a baby bud I applied tiny amounts of powder to the wet paint, not 100% convinced but better than it looked at 4.25am!!

 

13A2A83A-69A8-475A-B62F-397FCAE87BE4_zps

 

Thanks again Andy and don't forget 'you must' 'you must'.....

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Thanks David and thanks Andy, can't wait to finish it myself :)

Here's some quickly taken natural lighting picsD250F0E1-2318-4456-B89C-462D803900FE_zpsE84CA5EC-8E19-4430-A3CE-6010C5C0B310_zpsCEE8EB6A-1566-4A68-8178-51A1E4EB1FBE_zpsB828C2D8-DC4C-4A75-81E2-70CA5FED9723_zps40FECC94-AE17-4E31-AF1F-F7580EFFBBD5_zpsB4014483-BD00-47F2-8C45-D5F45409D8C4_zps

Cheers

I really don't know why you worry so much about getting it right, you've managed very well so far.

 

Brilliant work!

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Love the crud over the "BR TIMKEN" on the axleboxes, in particular, the 4th picture down......... ;)

 

Jinty ;)

Thanks Jinty means a lot coming from the expert :)

 

Cheers

Outstanding weathering....Outstanding loco. I would love one, but I dare not tread this slippery slope for fear of Carrog becoming Conway .....

Thanks Coachmann, it's a fantastic model you really should get one ;)

 

Cheers

G'day Gents

 

If the bogies are that dirty, the roof will be absolutely filthy, bring it on.

 

manna

Thanks Manna, once I get it numbered I'll start on the body with that filthy roof :)

 

Cheers

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NIce bit of texture on the bogies Paul,

Will you digging out the air brush for the sides,or do you have another plan?.

 

 

Brian.

Thanks Brian, not sure yet although I'm not very good with the airbrush I can just about get away with it for body side side grime, well I did on my 4mm locos, but the last two I weathered I used powders on the body and they turned out ok. D270 was one of the first 40's in blue so it won't be to dirty, mostly the roof etc, here's some pics

 

https://flic.kr/p/axJdrL

 

https://flic.kr/p/5xFAQ5

 

Thanks again

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