7mm track C&L or Peco

[squeaky]

Well i know this question has probably been asked before.

 

I like many others have recently just  bought a Dapol 08 and i'm currntly looking at getting a mainline diesel also. So thoughtd have now turned towards building a smallish 12' x 2' layout.

 

I was looking at using C&L point kits as they look much better than Peco ready built points and I would like to build my own points. My question is that C&L have just had to increase their prices so a standard B6 point kit now costs £80, I know I wouldn't need the gauges on any further kits I buy thus saving £7.50 but they still cost nearly double the cost of Peco point. So is it worth the extra expense?

 

 

 

 

[ROSSPOP]

Absolutely no contest.................................................

 

 

 

 

 

 

You pays yer money.......................

 

 

 

and they are easy to build........

 

and of course you won`t build in the self destruct switch problem that Peco`s point still has...........

 

 

 

Happy New Year

 

 

John

[Giles]

I would certainly go for C&L, as they look so much better, as does the rest of the track.

[markjj]

You don't necessarily need to buy a kit there are many instructions around in books and online as to how to make your own from scratch. The biggest cost it having your crossing and blades made for you. With a bit of extra work you can do this all yourself convienience of build comes with cost.

You should still be able to make any point or slip for under £25 from the raw material parts.

[Dava]

Peco still sell [eg via Gaugemaster] the Individulay machined switch and crossing rails so you can use these with C+L or Peco sleepers and stock rails for. Lot less than $70

 

Dava

[tanatvalley]

I am also building an even smaller 0 gauge shunting plank (1600mm x 400mm) excluding fiddle yard. I decided to use Peco track and one C&L 'A4' straight crossing. There were two reasons for this choice, the first was appearance and the second was crossing length. The C&L was shorter. My only deviation from the C&L instructions was to use JLTRT stretcher bars. Now need to ballast!

[hayfield]

As with everything, if you build the components yourself the cost of the turnouts really crashes into a fraction of the cost. If you buy a set of pre-made switch rails or a vee they are £15 each or £20  pack, The cost of the rail is under £2, both are easy to file up and the vee needs soldering together. Common crossings can either be soldered into sub assemblies, but are even easier to make just by just sticking the chairs (some trimming may be necessary) to plastic timbers

 

A rough cost comparison for a B7 ish Chairs £8, Rail £10, plastic timbers £8.00 (ply timbers £5) Total £26 appx,  Common crossings seem to be a mental stumbling block for some, there are several ways of building them including using copperclad timbers (raising the rail off the timber with some 1 mm strip) and soldering in situ, finishing off with cosmetic chairs.

 

Buy a plan from C&L if only for chair placings, Templot is a super and(If just producing a turnout plan) very easy to use, with almost unlimited size and shape variations 

[Brian_G]

I have built all the points on the 16ft X 3ft indoor garage section of my garden railway using C&L parts. The beauty of using C&L parts is that, in conjunction with Templot, you can achieve custom points to suit the layout that you want rather than making it fit around what's available from Peco. The layout has several curved points of differing radius and a curved single slip. Some points were built using just the planed C&L switch blades with home-made crossings and others used both their blades and ready-made crossings to save time. The parts are much cheaper than the kits, and once you have put the first one together it becomes second nature to build what you need, so you won't even consider buying ready-made Peco items.

[Simond]

I'd fully agree that making it yourself from rail, chairs and timbers is the way to go. Templot is free and very easy to use to print a template of a single turnout or crossover.

 

The ready-made bits are fine if you have more money than time, but I'd DIY if I were you. And I'd agree with a £25-ish estimate. I reckon that in three or four hours you'll build the first one, subsequent ones will be a bit quicker.

 

There's lots of homebuilt track on here, you'll find a step-by-step with some other links in my PD thread (link below) which may convince you to have a go.

 

I'd also recommend that you use 31.5mm gauge (0-MF) as the flangeways are narrower, there's no wheel drop and the appearance is much much better than Peco. Debs of this parish supplies gauges.

 

Hth

Simon

[JeffP]

What, if anything, to the track builders on here use by way of either filing jigs, or bending jigs, please?

 

I've looked, but apart from S7 stores, can't find any? Do I need more than one jig, for filing/bending for say, a B6 and then a B7? Or others?

 

And don't the filing jigs need hardening?

[markjj]

What, if anything, to the track builders on here use by way of either filing jigs, or bending jigs, please?

 

I've looked, but apart from S7 stores, can't find any? Do I need more than one jig, for filing/bending for say, a B6 and then a B7? Or others?

 

And don't the filing jigs need hardening?

Jeff I believe you can buy from the S7 stores as a none member buy you have to pay a slightly higher price. Try contacting them. They also have a guide that explains how to make things using the jigs that they may share with you. It's also worth becoming a member just to gain the access and info even if you don't plan to model in S7. I think it's currently £20 for the year but I stand corrected if I have that wrong.

[Simond]

Jeff

 

It would be nice to have hardened filing jigs, but it's not really necessary.

 

Before I got my jigs (which are Tufnol) I used a bit of point timber and my vice! (And I still do for blades)

 

One thing worth a mention, when I make a V, I always cut the rails an inch or so longer than they'll need to be. Filing them to shape might use a bit, getting them just right, and it's very easy to trim off the excess after soldering the bits together.

 

Please have a look at posts 109, 249 & 502 and following ones in my PD thread, I hope it gives you an idea of how I built my point work. There are lots of other posts on other threads too.

 

Best

Simon

[3 link]

These jigs are hardened and are from the S7 stores,

 

 

Martyn.

[MarshLane]

As some one who had never built track work before, I'd previously have said Peco or Marceau points. But since I started work on my O gauge layout I took the plunge to try track building, and would now say C&L every time.

 

Yes it takes time and it's a learning curve, but thanks to several kind soles on here who have helped me out, i feel I've made good progress. Go for it, you won't regret it, and the feeling of achievement is really good at the end!

 

Edited to add: I've been creating blades and vees with a file and vice and nothing else. I did try to get some of the S7 hugs, but they didn't seem interested, so gave up.

 

Rich

[brossard]

Tend to agree with Rich.  The jigs are handy things (I had a similar set from EMGS when I was doing 4mm) but not essential.  A Dremel mounted grinding stone removes a lot of material when making vees and blades followed by coarse then fine files.  I've made a few jigs and gauges myself such as for the common crossing and flangeway.  I also agree that there is a learning curve so you have to keep at it.  I've found discussion on RMweb to be extremely helpful.

 

John

[johnhutnick]

As with everything, if you build the components yourself the cost of the turnouts really crashes into a fraction of the cost. If you buy a set of pre-made switch rails or a vee they are £15 each or £20  pack, The cost of the rail is under £2, both are easy to file up and the vee needs soldering together. Common crossings can either be soldered into sub assemblies, but are even easier to make just by just sticking the chairs (some trimming may be necessary) to plastic timbers

 

A rough cost comparison for a B7 ish Chairs £8, Rail £10, plastic timbers £8.00 (ply timbers £5) Total £26 appx,  Common crossings seem to be a mental stumbling block for some, there are several ways of building them including using copperclad timbers (raising the rail off the timber with some 1 mm strip) and soldering in situ, finishing off with cosmetic chairs.

 

Buy a plan from C&L if only for chair placings, Templot is a super and(If just producing a turnout plan) very easy to use, with almost unlimited size and shape variations 

I checked Gaugemaster,com, and the Peco IL-706 frog wing and check rails set is 3.85.  If this frog angle is usable for one's application, it doesn't seem worth filing your own.

[Simond]

Well, value is a personal thing, but I reckon you'd get at least 2, and possibly 3 Vees from a length of rail that costs two quid, and it only takes a few minutes.

 

So for my money....

 

Best

Simon

[John R Smith]

Well, value is a personal thing, but I reckon you'd get at least 2, and possibly 3 Vees from a length of rail that costs two quid, and it only takes a few minutes.

 

So for my money....

 

Best

Simon

 

I think it all rather depends on what you enjoy doing. I've built a lot of track in the past, but it is not something I would choose to do - especially now that I am much older, and I would rather spend what time I have left doing the parts of model-making which I really love. So for me, anything which speeds the process of track-laying up is good, even if it does cost a bit more.

 

John

[hayfield]

These jigs are hardened and are from the S7 stores,

 

IMG_0071.JPG

 

Martyn.

 

These are a nice to have, I have the P4 set. In 7 mm scale there is a lot more material to remove than 4 mm scale, but providing you have some decent files it seems easier. A decent vice or clamp is more usefull

Tend to agree with Rich.  The jigs are handy things (I had a similar set from EMGS when I was doing 4mm) but not essential.  A Dremel mounted grinding stone removes a lot of material when making vees and blades followed by coarse then fine files.  I've made a few jigs and gauges myself such as for the common crossing and flangeway.  I also agree that there is a learning curve so you have to keep at it.  I've found discussion on RMweb to be extremely helpful.

 

John

 

I have a bench grinder and made a simple platform on which I can hold the rail flat and square (always finish off with a file). I still find a decent file easier than my Dremel though

I checked Gaugemaster,com, and the Peco IL-706 frog wing and check rails set is 3.85.  If this frog angle is usable for one's application, it doesn't seem worth filing your own.

 

I was quoting C&L prices, if it is the same rail then fine these are good prices, all be it with the Vee only one angle

I think it all rather depends on what you enjoy doing. I've built a lot of track in the past, but it is not something I would choose to do - especially now that I am much older, and I would rather spend what time I have left doing the parts of model-making which I really love. So for me, anything which speeds the process of track-laying up is good, even if it does cost a bit more.

 

John

 

You are so right with this one, its a hobby which we are supposed to enjoy. On the other hand unless you try something you will never know if you like it, plus the satisfaction of making something yourself

[squeaky]

Thanks for all the info I'm convinced I need to build my own points from C&L components.

 

I will be using BR 3 bolt chairs and making my own vee and point blades.

Can someone please confirm the part numbers I need to order for a point from C&L?

Code 125 Rail   7RA101A

Chairs                7CH101B

Slide chairs        7CH103A

?

?

[3 link]

Thanks for all the info I'm convinced I need to build my own points from C&L components.

 

I will be using BR 3 bolt chairs and making my own vee and point blades.

 

Can someone please confirm the part numbers I need to order for a point from C&L?

 

Code 125 Rail 7RA101A

Chairs 7CH101B

Slide chairs 7CH103A

?

?

Fishplates ( plastic ) E7XX FPO1

Fishplates ( Brass ) E7XX. FP11

Plywood Sleepers E7SL 302C

 

Martyn.

 

PS . You might think this works out expensive but there will be enough parts for a few turnouts.

[squeaky]

Fishplates ( plastic ) E7XX FPO1

Fishplates ( Brass ) E7XX. FP11

Plywood Sleepers E7SL 302C

 

Martyn.

 

PS . You might think this works out expensive but there will be enough parts for a few turnouts.

 

What about gauges i'll also needs those!

[Simond]

Speak to Debs of this parish: 31.5mm gauge. Definitely recommended!

 

Best

Simon

[3 link]

What about gauges i'll also needs those!

Oh and some Mek Pak to glue the chairs to the sleepers, tie bars are up to you, I prefer the ones by JLTRT.

 

Martyn.

[hayfield]

Fishplates ( plastic ) E7XX FPO1

Fishplates ( Brass ) E7XX. FP11

Plywood Sleepers E7SL 302C

 

Martyn.

 

PS . You might think this works out expensive but there will be enough parts for a few turnouts.

 

 

Exactoscale E7CH 201A Bridge chairs, I would also use the Exactoscale standard and slide chairs, being newer the mouldings are a bit crisper. I rarely use the brass fishplates as the plastic ones are quite strong and cheaper