Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[SR71]

Dinky versions are still readily available. This thread has prompted me to drag this forward from the back of the bench. An abandoned work in progress from some some time ago that I now have an idea of how to progress when I get back to it.

 

[crackedmember]

Is that a Rivarossi Chassis?

[SR71]

@crackedmember No all Dublo parts. If/when it works I'll show how 🙂

[cypherman]

Is that the chassis and valve gear from the 2-6-4 tank you have used.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

 

Whoopsie, someone gave me more hacksaw blades!

 

Using a spare R1 body and a cut-down Triang/Hornby “08” chassis, going to take the chassis to college and see if I can use the pillar drills to widen the crank pin holes on the non/geared axle to take the brass thread inserts from the original blind drivers.

[SR71]

@Hacksworth_Sidings Rather than a pillar drill you might want to see if they have any hand reamers to get better accuracy to start with.

Edited May 11 by SR71

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

 

Temporarily fitted an X.04, body wouldn’t fit, so I’ve undone the joints I made between the cab and boiler to cut away at the back of the boiler, creating space for the magnet and brush spring, which I’ll cover up with a Belpaire firebox.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

On the topic of cutting down locos… I’ve fixed up my mate’s B12 and Jinty, so the Ivatt is officially mine, and I’ve wasted no time in introducing it to the hacksaw.

 

 

Fitted the crank pins to the flanged driver by filing the crank pin bearing out with a triangular, tapered file, both ends until they slid in nicely, bit of loctite to hold them in. Need to adjust the quartering for smooth running but it may also just be a case of too much slop and free play in the coupling rods.

 

 

 

Tender has been cut down already, tender chassis has been glued together but the tender body is still in bits. Haven’t touched the loco body just yet, I want to finish the chassis work on that before I go any further.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

5 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

Need to adjust the quartering for smooth running but it may also just be a case of too much slop and free play in the coupling rods.

Well, it wasn’t the quartering or free play, rather a lack of the latter, the eccentric crank on the left side was creating too much friction as the wheels rotated between the 12 and 6 o clock positions, some adjustments with a pair of pliers have that mostly sorted… All in all, if you want a good 0-4-0 chassis, consider cutting one of these down…

Edited May 12 by Hacksworth_Sidings

[TangoOscarMike]

I've just placed an order for this with Shapeways. In case it's not obvious, the cab roof and bunker are separate pieces.

 

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Can’t wait to see the finished result, I’ll have to look into buying one for myself once it’s ready for sale… 

[Halvarras]

The Bright Red One Lives! In other words I've had a good day - this afternoon I finally plucked up the courage to switch on the soldering iron and this was the result (unmolested chassis from No 107 'TRURO' (ex-'Western Messenger' set) on the right for comparison):

I did consider leaving the electrical components off but decided that if I could rearrange these to remain within the width of the motor they should be retained - job done. Turning the motor 90 degrees meant that its angle had to be increased to maintain drive gear engagement, hence all that grinding of the cast mount with the Dremel. Note that I've added some bits of lead ballast, I may add some more inside the body later, while bearing in mind that this is only a plastic chassis. The black-painted cast metal block at the front end is also retained.

 

So having tested the chassis to confirm that it was still working (phew!) this evening it was offered up to the body to identify where I would need to do a bit of internal gouging to clear the motor contacts and associated motor 'lump' - thankfully this was only required on one side. The area was marked with a Sharpie pen, careful cuts made either side with a saw blade in the Exacto handle, then swapped for a new chisel blade and the material between the cuts carefully pared away while keeping an eye on the outside for signs of 'breakthrough'.......nope, all good.

Once I'd gone as far as I dared I test-fitted the chassis......and it went straight in! It helped a little that the motor is still able to revolve slightly along its axis. Hooray for 1960s thick Tri-ang plastic! I had envisaged some exterior modifications to get this far but I'm relieved that this has been avoided.

Tested again and running very nicely - with buffers temporarily fitted:

As witnessed by the white insert at the top I have lowered the (ex-Lima Class 08) radiator grille slightly.

Another feature I want to include is a proper radiator casing, to obtain a more prominent wrap-around to the 'wasp stripes' - the leading side grilles are too far forward. I'm also wondering whether I could add a slightly curved bonnet top, as the NBLs weren't flat. Then there's still those bonnet sides.......onwards and upwards....!

 

[Barclay]

This may sound extreme but I think it would solve your issues - if you cut out the side grilles and save them, you could then apply a thin plasticard overlay, including the curved top, then thin down the grilles and re-apply them in the correct position.

[Halvarras]

5 hours ago, Barclay said:

This may sound extreme but I think it would solve your issues - if you cut out the side grilles and save them, you could then apply a thin plasticard overlay, including the curved top, then thin down the grilles and re-apply them in the correct position.

 

I see what you mean, although it would be quite an operation (especially since last night I opened up the cab front windows to halfway down the front panel! - just after sorting the cab rear). I wonder at Tri-ang's logic of moulding a fictitious rivetted panel on the cab side, which I've removed, obstructing placement of the running number with BR emblem here as per the real D2907 (these 330hp shunters never carried Tri-ang's large steam-type numbers) - then to accommodate the emblem they basically stitched two bonnet access doors together to provide a flat surface large enough for it, in the process reducing the number of grilled side doors from 10 to 6. It really needs 8 I think. I have a selection of left-over A1 Models Class 22 side grilles to use on this........somehow. Most are 'twins' but can be cut down to 'singles'. This will always be a freelance model made to look more 'NBL' (I hope!) so I have a fairly free hand. I was also checking out the small side boxes last night and I reckon they were added to provide adequate clearance for Tri-ang's chunky front driving wheels - they're not necessary now so........anyway, cab front windows first!

[AlfaZagato]

Yeah, those side fitting look like pretty solid moldings.  That would be one hell of a shaving job to get them off cleanly.   

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Finally got access to the trains again, so more progress is being made on the 1MT, will possibly be minor work this weekend, prepping the body for filling, as we’re going to be cleaning out the house and rearranging some of the rooms (personal concerns which I shan’t delve into, but also dad wants his library back, so once I’m in a bigger bedroom the trains will join me :))

 

So far I’ve just made the necessary cuts in the body (unmodified 2MT for comparison), tender is all glued, just needs filling in and painting.

 

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Got a few junky Triang 6” carriages knocking about which I sloppily acrylic’d in 2021…

 

 

…Why shouldn’t I make some puny coaches for the puny loco? 🤪

 

Got a few 9”s(?) knocking about which I might mess about with shortening too…

[The Johnster]

I reckon those banana 6" coaches could form the basic bodyshell for a freelance rapid transit overhead railway, something like the Chicago Ell or the Liverpool dockers' umbrella, trucky little bogies and insanely sharp curvature, lined green livery, open saloon seating, and driving trailers with cabs converted from one end vestibule.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Dug out the other carriages, just got one cut down.

 

 

Waiting for the poly cement to dry, but I’m trying to figure out which I like more… 6”s are easier to mod (two cuts to shorten, perpendicular to the walls), but I feel the extra work of the 9”s will pay off (got to cut diagonally as to not destroy the window frames).

 

 

Hopefully once I have them all filled, sanded, etc, I’ll be able to cast final judgment.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Not so much a bash, but just a repaint:

 

Tonight I was genuinely so bored that I just… Repainted a Dublo R1 with Tamiya X-4 “Blue”.

 

 

That’s it, that’s all I did, just primed the model, a few hours ago, then painted it blue! The X-4 paint does give a lovely glossy finish from a distance though… Applies very well too, I’ll have to look into more of these glossier colours…

Edited Monday at 21:28 by Hacksworth_Sidings
X-4! X-4 is the blue I used, X-7 is the red I used on the buffer beam

[AlfaZagato]

Makes me think of S&D blue.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

11 minutes ago, AlfaZagato said:

Makes me think of S&D blue.

Or LMR?

[cypherman]

A similar thing happened to me end of last year. Wanted something to do and painted this R1. Plus started to cobble together a Triang M7 chassis with a Wrenn N2 body. Still not get any further with that one. Yet.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Coursework is done for the academic year, so my college tutor’s told me I can use the workshop for train projects :)

 

 

1MT’s come to college with me for the day so I can sort out a mounting point for the tender drawbar, I’ll have to see if we have any taps small enough for Triang’s shouldered brass screws…

[DarthHelix]

Looking great. I always admire your bashing skill and confidence

Don't know if it's just the angle of the photo but it feels like it needs a rear pony truck.