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Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins


Corbs
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Nice chassis.

 

Worth remembering that the Caley ones invariably ran with an engine tender for more coal capacity, effectively a converted wooden framed coal wagon for more coal capacity. Some industrial ones had similar tenders. 

 

 

 Plenty of pics online, and an opportunity to add another four pickups for better running. 

 

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Did you find that cutting off the horrible springs etc from the footplate casting weakened it? I'm planning on removing them from one of mine in the next day or two. I was thinking I might stick the plastic body to the footplate to strengthen it.

 

Then maybe I can make some daylight under the boiler, by fitting a smaller motor, and some more gears to slow it down.

Edited by BG John
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Hi - What a fascinating thread - I did not realise you could do so much with the cheap Hornby locos, so here is my take on  £5 "Bill" off the internet. All I needed was a razor saw and some plasticard. The body was removed from the chassis, and then separated from the cab. The saddle was then cut down the middle and 6mm of plastic removed in total before being glued back together. The chimney and dome were recovered from this section and cut out and filed to fit back on the saddle after it had been filed and sanded smooth. The foot plate was similarly cut and shut, before being reunited with the chassis. It looks like a big Port of Par shunter now.

 

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The buffer beams were filed flat, and new ones made from 40 thou plasticard, and buffers from round head nails and plastic tube. All it needs now is an overall coat of pale unlined green and a good weathering.

I could not find the photos I took at the time, so I have just taken a few more of the finished article - it needs weathering and a crew.post-8779-0-77660400-1489418392.jpg

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post-8779-0-32020000-1489418499.jpg This is the real one - quite a bit shorter in height.

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Did you find that cutting off the horrible springs etc from the footplate casting weakened it? I'm planning on removing them from one of mine in the next day or two. I was thinking I might stick the plastic body to the footplate to strengthen it.

 

Then maybe I can make some daylight under the boiler, by fitting a smaller motor, and some more gears to slow it down.

I can't say how much weaker the metal footplate is, as I cut out a section from the middle and rejoined the ends together. The springs had to go because they got in the way of the larger Bachmann wheels.  It seems to be strong enough for normal service. That gap under the tank will have to be filled with something even if it is a flat side of plasticard with plastic wagon springs stuck to it. It will depend on which chassis I go for and how much of a gap it reveals.

Edited by relaxinghobby
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I could not find the photos I took at the time, so I have just taken a few more of the finished article - it needs weathering and a crew.attachicon.gifDSCF1548.JPG

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attachicon.gifgcr-port-of-par-alfred.jpg This is the real one - quite a bit shorter in height.

 

Hi Kes,

May I ask what slidebars and crosshead you used for this?

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Hi Kes,

May I ask what slidebars and crosshead you used for this?

Hi Corbs, they were old Triang ones as found on the princess and 2-6-2t as found in my junk box. I drilled out the rivet holding on the connecting rod, cut the end off the pug rod and drilled a hole where the dimple is. I refitted the crosshead the wrong way around so the flat face was on the inside. The slide bars are just 0.9mm brass wire.  Kev.

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BlueLightning

 

For 009, I think something faintly similar to one of the Pentewan railway 0-6-2ST, or 'Barber' from Harrogate Gasworks, using a Lilliput chassis, might look more plausible.

 

Or, what about the other Harrogate loco, which is a Peckett 0-6-0ST, which definitely looks like a Pug on the wrong chassis?!

 

Kevin

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Edited by Nearholmer
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I was going to leave this until its finished but life is getting in the way a bit and progress is slow. I wanted to know if the Hornby Caley pug wheel base could be shortened to create either a correct size Caley pug or for use in other industrial locos. On stripping the chassis right down and removing the rear axle I found just in front of the axle a square hole each side there for the pickups to poke through but what I did was open the hole up so I could fit a couple of Hornby wheel bearing from my spares box I was able to move the rear axle forward between 4mm and 5mm. There's more to it than that of course and when enlarging the square hole I kept the bottom and front edge as they were and just enlarged it back and up this ensures both bearings stay level and straight.

 

The solid metal motor cradle has to have the slot that straddles the axle lengthened as well so as not to fowl the new axle position and in time I'll have to make new pickups but I think its got merits.

The first picture shows the chassis stripped down and the handy square hole just infront of the original rear axle hole.

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The next shows the Bearing fitted to this enlarged hole.

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As the motor cradle straddles the axle and the motor is not moving the slot on the underside of the cradle has to be lengthened.

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With the wheels and axle back on the shortened chassis is sat back to back with an original pug showing the wheel base which is now 5mm shorter.

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There's lots more to do the rods will need shortening for a start and I'm going to make or graft on some proper slide bars and piston rod but I think its got possibilities.

The end result hopefully will be a fairly loose scale early flat top tank coffee pot firebox Neilson tank more of which as it progresses

 

 

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Well I started chopping and just got carried away and I fear when done the only pug parts left will be this chassis and wheels and the smoke box and tank which its self will be converted into a flat top tank. I was planing to save the running plate to help add a bit of weight and cleaned it right down flush but as I'm shortening the loco I've decided to dispense with this and build from scratch with plasticard and square section brass rod for the valance which any one who has seen my Caley loco thread will recall is how I made the running plates for some of the Caley builds.

 

As an answer to someone who asked in an earlier thread when stripped flush although quite strong it is possible to distort the cast running plate if your not careful, with the loco having a plastic chassis this had the effect of twisting the chassis and lifting one rear wheel slightly but as I say I'm going fpor a complete new running plate.

 

I picked up a couple of old Triang replacement GWR Lord of the Isles safety valve bonnets which would appear to be perfect for the coffee pot type fire box of the original. With respect to forum member Sir Douglas I would like to repost a picture he posted on a different thread of what I'm looking at building

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As to the original motor and those horrible retaining springs I've removed them completely after finding the motor fits flat onto the cradle so have fixed it in place with super glue which seems like it should be OK with out the needs for the springs and "wing" flaps which stops one doing anything with the area under the tank. As I'm lowering the running plate this will have a couple of splashers each side and a new sand box to fill that area.

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Well I'm loosing the cast running plate but there's a lot of room in the top of the tank and smoke box and also in between the chassis sides in front and behind the motor to pack some liquid lead into which I'm hoping will tame it a bit but plan to pay around with motor/gearbox options for future projects. Incidentally I cant see why the Caley pug has the monstrosity of an over size firebox as there's lots of room around the rear motor mount and on this build it should have a very nearly scale firebox. Here's a picture showing the original firebox showing there is at least 3mm all round the rear motor mount.

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That's cheating, and totally against the spirit of doing creative things to improve these locos ;).

Cheating, yes but a nice little loco all the same!

On another note,really liking that Brian Clarke loco, are there any topics on here dealing with his 'elusive' work in more detail?

Edited by Killian keane
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Cheating, yes but a nice little loco all the same!

On another note,really liking that Brian Clarke loco, are there any topics on here dealing with his 'elusive' work in more detail?

Somewhere I have a 009 Roco 0-6-0T with a Brian Clarke chimney to anglicise it, must dig that out...

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Yes, there should be a BC thread.

 

Much joy and, ever so very occasionally, a working model could be had from his kits. I think I've got a photo of one finished, and I know I did two or three more. What I never really tackled were the eight million tiny bits of white metal that, in the hands of a genius, produced an entire groudle glen loco and train ...... and, think how small those locos are!

 

I was always in awe of Brian's talents, artistic and modelling-wise, and he was 'way out there' in pursuing sub-2ft gauge subjects in 4mm scale.

 

K

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BlueLightning

For 009, I think something faintly similar to one of the Pentewan railway 0-6-2ST, or 'Barber' from Harrogate Gasworks, using a Lilliput chassis, might look more plausible.

Or, what about the other Harrogate loco, which is a Peckett 0-6-0ST, which definitely looks like a Pug on the wrong chassis?!

Kevin

I'm certain that there is a thread somewhere, on one or other forum, about exactly that - a Harrogate Peckett constructed from an Airfix Pug and a Farish 08 chassis? Very effective, from what I recall?

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