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Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins


Corbs
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Here's an unusual one, a fireless loco from a pug.

By ahardy:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/75964-industrials-from-a-pug/

 

 

 

post-1099-0-16354500-1378671266.jpg

 

I built a model of HP1 from a Dapol pug some years ago (when I was trying to preserve the real HP1).

 

Unfortunately something went wrong in my attempt to reverse the cylinders, meaning the connecting rods keep falling off!

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Opinions needed!

 

I have been working on my 009 pugbash. It is the Airfix kit on a GraFar Castle chassis. It is going reasonably well I am happy with it in general but I have reached a point where I need some feedback, I have already had some good ideas regarding what to do but I want as much feedback as possible.

 

So here is the loco as it looks now.

From the side:

post-22762-0-32324700-1494924890_thumb.jpg

 

From the front:

post-22762-0-66110600-1494924886_thumb.jpg

 

So opinions please everyone.

 

Thanks in Advance,

 

Gary

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Thanks Alex,

 

It is obviously missing a footplate at the moment. I will take you advice into consideration when I make one. I had originally planned on using the one in the kit but when I was playing it just looked to big.

 

Gary

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  • 2 weeks later...

This looks a prime candidate for a pug bash

Built by R W Hawthorn as an 0-4-0 in 1873 and bought by the Nitrate Railway (F C Salitrero de Tarapaca) of Chile in 1889, first as their no 56 and later as their no 1. Converted to an 0-4-2 and then an 0-4-4 inspection saloon

post-6836-0-51557100-1496102010_thumb.png.

Edited by Talltim
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This looks a prime candidate for a pug bash

Built by R W Hawthorn as an 0-4-0 in 1873 and bought by the Nitrate Railway (F C Salitrero de Tarapaca) of Chile in 1889, first as their no 56 and later as their no 1. Converted to an 0-4-2 and then an 0-4-4 inspection saloon

attachicon.gifIMG_0734.PNG.

That could be just the inspiration I need for an O-16.5 loco with room for experimental radio control gear!

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  • 2 weeks later...
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You mean like this little fella? A work in progress, entirely freelance.attachicon.gifIMG_2326.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_2324.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_2325.JPG

 

Please can you let me know the positions/measurements of where you have made the cuts to the Plymouth bodywork?  You've got the proportions just right, I'm itching to start having a go at my Plymouths.

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Thank you, that's very kind. Bear with me and I will measure up the wee beastie for you over the weekend. I'm actually thinking of reducing the distance between the radiator grille and the bufferbeam at the front - just a couple of mm, but I think that would improve the proportions.

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Talking of Plymouth conversions, here's one I made earlier. It's O scale rather than OO, using an Atlas Plymouth diesel 060 chassis and adapting a RMT "Beep" body to fit. There's an unmangled version of the Atlas loco with it for comparison.post-26540-0-68772700-1497041953_thumb.jpg

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finally plucked up enough guts to show some of mine, all in progress and excuse the wheels.

 

All started off as Pugs, or 0F from Hornby.

 

first off a Hawthorn Leslie frrom Pug chassis rewheeled with Markits and a Mashima motor with an 0F tank.

 

Along side an Avonside Pug chassis and )F tanks and smoke box. ultrascale em gauge wheelset.

 

 

then Peckett with utrascales.

 

Andrew Barclay with ultrscales wheels and finally Nielson Box Tank with Markits wheels .

 

 

All are works in progress hence the gaps twixt cab and footplate.

 

The Box tank is being commanded by Boris von ToppleMaj a refugee from the failed Teresenstadt coup of May 1910

Edited by robert17649
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Box Tank

 

first off Ive no pics of the work in progress.Basically I removed the chassis from a pug,

Take off the keeper plate.

Remove wheel set.

 

Remove gear wheel from the driving wheel axle.

 

CAREFULLY ream out gear wheel using a broach to a tight fit on the markits axle.

 

even more carefully file out the axle slots to 3mm(to match the Markits axle.

use Romford/Markits axle bushes in the slots

 

markits 3'6"wheels to the axles, best fitted when the axles are in place.reassemble the chassis without motor and check for free running.

 

 

The tricky bit is making a new footplate it is basically wide at each end to match the Pug footplate then the width of thechassis along the middle.The tricky bit is marking it out for the various fixing screws.

 

The meshing of the motor is a function of the thickness of the footplate and the fixing screw passing through the footplate to the chassis.I left the Pug weight in place by the way.

 

So at this stage what you have is a footplate and chassis with the motor sticing up . I think i will try to make some drawings to show this.

 

Then the body is a simple oblong box which fits over the motor..I sahould have filed the slide bars to the distinctive shape but havent yet.

 

 

The firbox safety valve bit is a bit of plastic tubing cut away to sit just on the motor.

 

There are drawings of the loco on the web as well as some drawings by Mr Rice of the cockpit area.thts about it really. The tank is abit too high and a bit too long but I think it looks the part.

 

spacers are essential twixt wheel and chassis to ensure that the bushes remain in place.

 

Hope that helps .

 

robert

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attachicon.gifScan.jpeg

 

sorry not a very clear drawing

 

so

 

Take one pug disassemble it

 

remove detail above footplate,or make footplate from 50thou   30x84mm.

 

or make to shape as per alternative 30mm x20mm 14mmx35mm 30mmx29mm.

 

tank top is 50x24mm

 

 

tank sides 50x14(2off)

 

tank front24mmx20mm.

 

tank supports(4off)32mmx6mm. these fit behind tank frontand extend back.

 

treat the chassis and whells as above post and reassemble.the tank should drop ovrer the motor leaving about 3mm of the motor showing.carefully adjustimg the motor mounting screw to get best meshing is pretty important and a pain but it should work.

 

hope that helps too

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